need help choosing front stage...

[tweekerz 0]

My current setup is MB Quarts, but horribly lack mid bass even amped and the treble was kind of harsh at times. With a budget of under 200, are there any components out there that have better midbass and smoother treble? Am i asking too much?

How are the RE components?

[tweekerz 0]

My current setup is MB Quarts, but horribly lack mid bass even amped and the treble was kind of harsh at times.  With a budget of under 200, are there any components out there that have better midbass and smoother treble?  Am i asking too much?

How are the RE components?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I wont be throwing more than 50w to it now, although it would be nice to throw more wattage to it later...

[dennisp 0]

any chance you wanna go active?

[tweekerz 0]

Active? Does that have to do with the crossovers?

[Supa_c 1]

Yes

Normally you get passive xovers with a component set.

With active, you have a seperate xover that controls everything, or a H/U with all of that built in

[tweekerz 0]

Yes

Normally you get passive xovers with a component set.

With active, you have a seperate xover that controls everything, or a H/U with all of that built in

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

i have a seperate crossover with my mb quart set now set to -0db and i control my crossover settings (slope, db, etc) on my headunit. i was planning on using a similar setup.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Why not try making what you currently have better. THe lack of midbass could very well be, and probably is, due to the application. The Quart's are awesome and they don't BS on crossover design. You can guarantee it's spot on. You also have tweeter attentuation capability with the crossover itself. I suggest trying this if the tweets are too harsh for your tastes.

[tweekerz 0]

Why not try making what you currently have better.  THe lack of midbass could very well be, and probably is,  due to the application.  The Quart's are awesome and they don't BS on crossover design.  You can guarantee it's spot on.  You also have tweeter attentuation capability with the crossover itself.  I suggest trying this if the tweets are too harsh for your tastes.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

By using the crossovers that came with the component set and crossing over on the head unit itself, am I running 2 crossovers? I'm not familiar with the tweeter attenuation. There is an input on the crossover for tweeter and driver, and a crossover point of -6, -3 and -0. I have it set to -0. Can you go furthur in depth about the attenuation? Thanks!

[ANeonRider 3]

the tweeter attenuation circuitry is the -6, -3, 0dB jumpers.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Sure, the 0dB setting is flat. The -3 and -6dB settings will attentuate or lower the level of the tweeters 3dBs or 6dBs. This is commonly used for your situation if you find the tweeters overbearing. Think of it as an equalizer how you can boost or cut frequencies. Say you have a peak at whatever, you want to cut that out to make it even or flat with the rest of the spectrum. The crossover provides you with this feature.

You could also look at it as halving power. Cut the power in half and you have a theoretical 3dB loss. This can also be done by using a higher impedance driver which will effecticely lower the power output of the amp, but be careful when doing this as even though the driver is getting less power, it may perhaps be more efficient than the other one.

Explanation:

You have driverA and driverB. DriverA is an 8ohm driver with a sensitivity of 96dB @ 2.83V. DriverB is the same driver, yet it is a 4ohm driver with a sensitivity of 93dB@2.83 volts. Now you have an amp rated at 100watts @4ohms. So theoretically, the amp will put out 50 watts @8ohms. Now you're thinking, hmm, the 8 ohm driver won't be as loud because it's getting half the power. On the contrary. The 8 ohm driver is exactly 3dBs more sensitive than the 4 ohm driver so it will be just as loud with half the power. Neat how that works huh? You can have a lower power system and still have the same output potential.

Now, there is a lot more science behind this and this is not ideally how it will always be, but it can be used as a great tool for matching components when designing from scratch.

[tweekerz 0]

the tweeter attenuation circuitry is the -6, -3, 0dB jumpers.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks for the info. Ill set the attenuation to -3 and hopefully that corrects the treble issue. But I still cant figure out for the life of me why my driver lacks bass. Off my head unit and while amped. id like to utilize more midbass instead of my woofer doing all the work. Ive spent hours messing around with settings even turning up the bass levels on the parametric eq to end up in the same place. Ive heard that mb quarts are weak in the midbass field.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

the tweeter attenuation circuitry is the -6, -3, 0dB jumpers.

Thanks for the info. Ill set the attenuation to -3 and hopefully that corrects the treble issue. But I still cant figure out for the life of me why my driver lacks bass. Off my head unit and while amped. id like to utilize more midbass instead of my woofer doing all the work. Ive spent hours messing around with settings even turning up the bass levels on the parametric eq to end up in the same place. Ive heard that mb quarts are weak in the midbass field.

What's you application for the drivers?

[tweekerz 0]

the tweeter attenuation circuitry is the -6, -3, 0dB jumpers.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks for the info. Ill set the attenuation to -3 and hopefully that corrects the treble issue. But I still cant figure out for the life of me why my driver lacks bass. Off my head unit and while amped. id like to utilize more midbass instead of my woofer doing all the work. Ive spent hours messing around with settings even turning up the bass levels on the parametric eq to end up in the same place. Ive heard that mb quarts are weak in the midbass field.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

What's you application for the drivers?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

iif you mean what music i listen to hip hop and electronica mostly but the occasional jazz and rock

[Tirefryr 1,742]

No, where do you have the drivers placed? Are they in the door, enclosure, etc. . .

[tweekerz 0]

No, where do you have the drivers placed?  Are they in the door, enclosure, etc. . .

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

heh

They are in my door. Using a 3/4 in mdf spacer.

[Acidburn 10]

No, where do you have the drivers placed?  Are they in the door, enclosure, etc. . .

heh

They are in my door. Using a 3/4 in mdf spacer.

have you deadened the doors at all?

deadening mine and sealing up some of the holes improved my midbass

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

when I had power to my Quarts in the sled, the tweets were backed off 2 steps

[finebar4 0]

I ran Quarts for more than a decade. I ran the tweeters 3dB down while they were in pods in the doors and when I relocated the tweeters up to the A-pillars, I had to go to 6dB down with them reflecting off the glass. I deadened the doors and it made a huge difference in the midbass. I did dual 5.25s in each door for about 8 years with more than adequate midbass. I jumped to the Q series when they came out and with a 3/4" baffle and deadened panels they sounded great, even down to close to 60hz.