Bring back the life of the paint

[Godsmack 360]

The new 'go fast car' has a meh interior, and would look really good once she gets re-painted. In the mean time what can I do to take pretty 'flat' red paint shine? She has clear coat, but doesn't have that shiny wet look I want.

Can I get some tips to get it there?

J

[djjdnap 78]

another coat of clear maybe

[Godsmack 360]

Its going to get repainted very soon. Taken all the way down and painted.

J

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

Go on YouTube and search "JunkMan". He knows his stuff and all of his videos are "idiots guide" to detailing.

[Godsmack 360]

Good to know.

thanks for the help guys and keep the tips coming!!!

J

[gibsonm21 1]

Junkman is legit.

[BanginGMC 23]

Go get a complete on the exterior. EX: wet sanding, buffed with high speed wheel, etc

Father owned and ran detailing shop for 25+ years

[///M5 2,833]

Before sanding I'd see if you can just use some compound and a buffer. Most of that should buff out. Of course if its real gone you are going to have to sand.

Think about the price of the car and then realize that is what paint will cost (if I know which car it is). A worthy paint job is not cheap and one that isn't won't look as good as a nice buff/sand, polish, wax, etc.

[jonbearsmt 919]

i would have someone wet sand it..

IMO wet sanding is not somthing you want to learn in your drive way on your own car!

[cobra93 47]

Without any pics of the condition of the paint we're all going to be guessing.

The age and color of the paint do matter.

Do you have ant experience with a buffer? Not an orbital.

If you do some Meguiars #2 with a waffle pad will remove the oxidized paint, but be careful around edges, trim and things like the antenna.

#2 will break down as it's being worked and should leave minimal swirl marks (tiger striping).

If you don't get some imperial hand glaze and go to work.

Follow this up with some type of wax, Meguiars #6 or #26. It's cheap and decent.

If someone were to wetsand the paint and breaks through the clear you're going to be out time and money. I don't think it's worth it.

Whatever you do stay away from anything with silicone in it, it won't last.

Also don't use any silicone products on the tires, weatherstripping or anything else for that matter if you're going to have the car painted.

If you do, it'll be fish-eye city and some pissed off people.

[Luke.H 33]

Before sanding I'd see if you can just use some compound and a buffer. Most of that should buff out. Of course if its real gone you are going to have to sand.

Think about the price of the car and then realize that is what paint will cost (if I know which car it is). A worthy paint job is not cheap and one that isn't won't look as good as a nice buff/sand, polish, wax, etc.

X2 on the rubbing compound. Depending on the condition that will be your best bet to restore it in the mean time. Buff it out and then wax it. Doing that has really surprised me in the past.

I also agree with the paint job. If buffing doesn't produce the results you want and you decide not to pay someone a decent amount of money to repaint your car as decent single stage paint job isn't all too expensive if you do it yourself. It's not easy, but can be done to produce some decent results. A DIY single stage will look a ton better than something done at MAACO if you take your time and practice a little.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Car doesn't need sanded. A light cut will remove the oxidation, hell, a liquid clay might even be enough. Follow it up with a polish, wax, then glaze and you won't need paint.