Advice on deadning my Jeep

[homeflake 0]

I want to completely deaden the inside of my vehicle with SSD's CLD, CCF, and MLV. Vehicle is a 2-door Jeep Wrangler 04' hardtop, the interior of a jeep has less plastic trim than most other vehicles... from the floor to the window line is sheet metal covered in a layer of carpet.... Will that make any difference in the approach I should take?

The door panels have been glassed on the bottom to house 2 6.5's and a tweeter, and there is about 3/4" gap between the sheet metal and the inside of the door panel. I think 3/4" will be enough to get a layer of CLD, CCF, and MLV in there?

One of my concerns is if I will be able to install the MLV and CCF on the ceiling, I don't want it to fall off over time from being in a vertical position. If anybody has installed it in a vertical position please let me know how it held up.

My main goal is to block outside noise and stop any rattles/vibrations in the car for a more 'acoustical' environment.

Oh, and one noob question... it goes CLD, MLV, then CCF by layer doesn't it?

Thanks for any advice on this topic I've never used sound deadener before but I want to do it right the first time.

[jorscrivens 0]

Email Don directly at: don@sounddeadenershowdown.com

He will be able to answer all of your questions and then some. Good luck And don't forget to post pics!!!

[jokers10 19]

Congrats on buying the noisest modern civilian vehicle ever sold.

I have seen people spray bed liner in the interiors of their jeeps to quiet them down. Most of your noise though will come from the flat body panels, windshield, and all the gaps that make a Wrangler cool in the first place. Being able to remove the top, doors, and tilt forward the glass, makes the wrangler the ultimate beach/cruising vehicle.

It is sort of like buying a john boat for the purpose of water skiing. It can be done, but it would take quite a bit of work to get it there. I would just compensate for the noise by buying larger amps and heavier speakers.

[homeflake 0]

Congrats on buying the noisest modern civilian vehicle ever sold.

I have seen people spray bed liner in the interiors of their jeeps to quiet them down. Most of your noise though will come from the flat body panels, windshield, and all the gaps that make a Wrangler cool in the first place. Being able to remove the top, doors, and tilt forward the glass, makes the wrangler the ultimate beach/cruising vehicle.

It is sort of like buying a john boat for the purpose of water skiing. It can be done, but it would take quite a bit of work to get it there. I would just compensate for the noise by buying larger amps and heavier speakers.

Yeah, it's a very noisy vehicle.... but I'm ready to do some skiing in this john boat.

I tried to email the SSD guy but never got a responce... So after a little research im going to be doing a dual layer of cld and llp on every square inch inside. So far I've got 75^2 feet of 80 mil deadner and 45^2 feet of luxuary liner pro and a hardtop; I'm going to need much more than that but I'm mainly concerned with doing the hardtop right now so I can put in on my Jeep. A long with that I'm going to be spraying the firewall and and wheel wells with a gallon of spectrum.

I don't need my jeep to be like a tomb inside but if I could cut the road/engine noise in half I'd be happy.

My electrical system is pretty much at it limits with stock alt and only 150 AH worth of batteries, so just adding bigger amps and more cone area would be even more expensive. I really dont have any more room in there either w/o doing a wall.

[homeflake 0]

A little update on how this is coming along. So far I've got a layer of AT 80 mil on the hardtop, I'm going to be doing the second layer tomorrow. My spray gun and contact cement finally came in so I might start installing the luxuary liner pro on my top tomorrow as well.

http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b321/homeflake210/?action=view&current=mms_picture-1.jpg

Will be ordering another 100^2 feet of 80 mil, some more llp, and enough ccf for my pillars and doors panels on monday. Hopefully next weekend I will have time to finish the top and start on the back of my Jeep.

I wish I could have gotten the SSD cld but that company never answered my email so I'm hoping for the best with the AudioTechnix.

[lithium 358]

I would have contacted Don again. he gets a ton of emails and possibly just missed yours.

A second lay of CDL will not be very effective on the hardtop. You need a barrier like MLV or similar product to block noise from entering the cabin.

I would pass on the spectrum. Apply CLD to the flat surfaces of the doors, wheel wells, floor, etc. Then apply mlv to create a barrier.

Check out the SSA Mazda install.

notice there wasn't very much cdl used compared to mlv.

[homeflake 0]

I would have contacted Don again. he gets a ton of emails and possibly just missed yours.

A second lay of CDL will not be very effective on the hardtop. You need a barrier like MLV or similar product to block noise from entering the cabin.

I would pass on the spectrum. Apply CLD to the flat surfaces of the doors, wheel wells, floor, etc. Then apply mlv to create a barrier.

Check out the SSA Mazda install. http://www.soundsolu...-the-ssa-mazda/

notice there wasn't very much cdl used compared to mlv.

Yeah, I'm sure I went overboard on the CLD... oh well I don't think to much is going to hurt anything. As far as the MLV I will be doing 2 layers of luxuary liner pro on my hard top (and the rest of my car) so that should block the noise pretty well.

For my doors im going to to do CLD, LLP, and a layer of CCF last that will be flush against the door panel.

I might pass on the spectrum if I'm happy enough with how it sounds after all of this, it's pretty expensive.

I was able to get my second layer of CLD on the top today so I'll have another pic next weekend when I do the LLP.

Thanks for the advice lithium.

[homeflake 0]

I got my second layer of CLD on last Saturday and got the first layer of luxuary liner pro on today. I havn't taped the seems yet but I will be doing that before I put the second layer on.

On the second skin site it states that the llp will most likely fall off with their adhesive in a vertical position so I used some 3M high performance contact adhesive through a paint gun. It stuck really well, I had to peel about 6" of it back up and it was tearing the CCF only seconds after being bonded.

First layer of CLD (took pic half way through first layer it was 100% coverage when finished)

Second layer of CLD

Spraying with contact adhesive for the LLP

Spraying the LLP

Making the bond (once it touches its stuck)

Cutting off extras

First layer done (except for sides)

Edited March 27, 2012 by homeflake

[Rudeboy 152]

Sorry I missed your e-mail. Very neat job on the top. Not trying to be a dick, but what is a barrier going to do for you on the roof?

[homeflake 0]

Sorry I missed your e-mail. Very neat job on the top. Not trying to be a dick, but what is a barrier going to do for you on the roof?

I'm going to do the whole inside of my jeep with cld, mlv, and ccf. The top might block a very small amount of noise compared to the doors or wheel wells, but everything is getting covered. I know its a waste of money to do 100% coverage with cld, but to much won't hurt anything.

After the entire inside is covered with those 3 materials I should have a pretty quiet ride.

I'll send you another email, I would still like to get some mlv and ccf for the floor and doors.

[Rudeboy 152]

Sorry I missed your e-mail. Very neat job on the top. Not trying to be a dick, but what is a barrier going to do for you on the roof?

I'm going to do the whole inside of my jeep with cld, mlv, and ccf. The top might block a very small amount of noise compared to the doors or wheel wells, but everything is getting covered. I know its a waste of money to do 100% coverage with cld, but to much won't hurt anything.

After the entire inside is covered with those 3 materials I should have a pretty quiet ride.

I'll send you another email, I would still like to get some mlv and ccf for the floor and doors.

Still not trying to be difficult, but a couple of points to consider:

1) I'd be reluctant to add weight to the highest poinnt in a Jeep without a really comprelling reason to do it.

2) Unless minimizing the sound from inside that can be heard outside, the adding a barrier to the roof isn't going to accomplish much, if anything.A barrier blocks sound traveling through the air. There are very few noise sources directly overhead. For sources that are not directly overhead, there's no point in building a barrier above the glass line that blocks better than the glass itself.

3) Vibration damper works beause the adhesive is viscoelastic. The warmer it gets the more it slides to the viscous side. When the deformation is slow and steady, it performs more like a liquid than it does rubber. Unless something will be under the barrier to hold it in place, it will eventually come off the roof with the foil. If the top is dark and you live where there is sun it coould happen rather quickly.

[homeflake 0]

Still not trying to be difficult, but a couple of points to consider:

1) I'd be reluctant to add weight to the highest poinnt in a Jeep without a really comprelling reason to do it.

2) Unless minimizing the sound from inside that can be heard outside, the adding a barrier to the roof isn't going to accomplish much, if anything.A barrier blocks sound traveling through the air. There are very few noise sources directly overhead. For sources that are not directly overhead, there's no point in building a barrier above the glass line that blocks better than the glass itself.

3) Vibration damper works beause the adhesive is viscoelastic. The warmer it gets the more it slides to the viscous side. When the deformation is slow and steady, it performs more like a liquid than it does rubber. Unless something will be under the barrier to hold it in place, it will eventually come off the roof with the foil. If the top is dark and you live where there is sun it coould happen rather quickly.

So I guess the only thing the top will really help do is block the sound coming out of my jeep?.... And that will suck if the CLD fails and peels off... I was hoping that it would not get as hot as most vehicals since the top is fiberglass and not sheet metal but I guess I'll find out this summer.

Could you give me any tips for doing my floor, body, and doors? My main goal is stop road noise, and be able to block the sound from the inside would be nice to.... could play my highs a little louder and not have to worry about annoying other people.

[ssh 924]

Still not trying to be difficult, but a couple of points to consider:

1) I'd be reluctant to add weight to the highest poinnt in a Jeep without a really comprelling reason to do it.

2) Unless minimizing the sound from inside that can be heard outside, the adding a barrier to the roof isn't going to accomplish much, if anything.A barrier blocks sound traveling through the air. There are very few noise sources directly overhead. For sources that are not directly overhead, there's no point in building a barrier above the glass line that blocks better than the glass itself.

3) Vibration damper works beause the adhesive is viscoelastic. The warmer it gets the more it slides to the viscous side. When the deformation is slow and steady, it performs more like a liquid than it does rubber. Unless something will be under the barrier to hold it in place, it will eventually come off the roof with the foil. If the top is dark and you live where there is sun it coould happen rather quickly.

So I guess the only thing the top will really help do is block the sound coming out of my jeep?.... And that will suck if the CLD fails and peels off... I was hoping that it would not get as hot as most vehicals since the top is fiberglass and not sheet metal but I guess I'll find out this summer.

Could you give me any tips for doing my floor, body, and doors? My main goal is stop road noise, and be able to block the sound from the inside would be nice to.... could play my highs a little louder and not have to worry about annoying other people.

CLD over large sheet metal sections, approx 25% coverage will reduce the panel resonance. This will work over body, floor, and door panels. (If the metal panel is curved, ie: fender well, it may not need any clds because the shape will strengthen the metal and change it's resonance.)

MLV over entire area to create a sound barrier.

CCF between mlv and plastic panels so they don't rattle against each other.

I don't have any pictures of when I applied the cld and ccf, but here's an idea of what the mlv for the door may look like:

Also another mentioned checking out the sds Mazda build. It has tons of pictures on doing everything.

Edited April 1, 2012 by stefanhinote