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natedizzle

loud button bad???

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well ive been leaving it off for about 2 days now and it seems cleaner,even my friend said that.Hopefully ill be ordering my 4channel later next week so hopefully that will help that flatness but other then that it was a better decision to leave it off.

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I have my loud botton ( pio 940mp) because i dont feel like having the volume set at 35 when its max is only 40.

Mind you, all the speakers are stock, everything is filtered out that doesnt need to be played ( sub bass). Plus its h/u power so its only 20W. And i know what distortion is and i only go there when things need to be sent to the grave ;)

I also have the BBE on. It just sounds better.

When i get my amps and speakers i prob wont have it on since the preout voltage is a nice 6.5 so "loud" wont be necessary.

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Damn, I don't need to apply my knowledge.

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Not all distortion is created equal, best to look at what harmonics are present :)

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You're starting to sound like Evan :D

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Not going to disagree there...:D

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Well, I only read through part of the thread, so if this is simply a restatement...forgive me.

Distortion, clipping and underpowering will not damage a speaker by itself.  I can send a fully clipped 100w signal (200w power) to a true 500w subwoofer and not do a lick of damage to it.  It is not the act of clipping, the act of distortion or the act of underpowering that damages a speaker.  It is, plain and simply, power. 

As we all know, a clipped signal contains 2x more power than an unclipped signal.  Now, that 100w amplifier of yours may damage a 150w speaker at full clipping.  But, the damage was not caused by the clipping, it was caused by the excess power caused by the clipping, and that power exceeding the thermal or mechanical limitations of the speaker. 

The only two ways to damage a speaker are by exceeding it's thermal limits or exceeding it's mechanical limits.  If the power of the signal does not do those two things, it plain and simply will not damage the speaker.

Now, you could say that we are simply into a debate of semantics.  But I wholeheartedly disagree.  As I mentioned before, send a fully clipped signal to a speaker that can mechanically and thermally handle the power, and no damage will be done.  Because power is the damaging factor, not the signal.  And that is the important thing to emphasize in these debates.

WERD!!!

http://www.carsound.com/UBB/ultimatebb.php...ic;f=1;t=023738

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I see that some myths NEVER die .... I am assuming the next post will be about running the power wires down one side of the car and the signal cables down the other ........

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I see that some myths NEVER die .... I am assuming the next post will be about running the power wires down one side of the car and the signal cables down the other ........

odd thing was, other installs that was never a problem. in my truck i got alternator wine. Moved the RCA's to the other side of the truck and i didnt have a problem. Swapped sides that the cables where on and i didnt have a problem.

I think that myth got started because of a few people with bad voltage ripple. :fing34:

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more than likely got started because someone moved thrir RCA's away from the power wires and the noise went away .... unbeknownst to them, what they REALLY did was move the RCA away from a noisy spot on the chassis.

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more than likely got started because someone moved thrir RCA's away from the power wires and the noise went away .... unbeknownst to them, what they REALLY did was move the RCA away from a noisy spot on the chassis.

maybe..but we had a run of cars at work where (on high amps only) the rcas and power cbles ran side by side..we get noise...move the power cable, or the rcas, noise goes away.

i think some of it has to do with the quality of the rcas...maybe not. but it definitely happened, and moving either wire cured it.

btw, that's using memphis rcas....

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

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when it comes to alt whine ... you generally have to do whatever works because nobody wants to listen to a system with noise like that - and NO customer will be satisfied with an install that is noisy.

As far as clipping goes, I would say EVERY system I have heard clips at some point, some are just more audible than others. Think about this, CD's have a crest facor (absolute max to avg max) of like 30 dB, that's a power factor of 1000. So if you're midrange or tweeter is playing just 1 watt peak, it will need 1000 watts peak to not clip on better recorded CD's. PLEASE NOTE THE SPEKERS I AM TALKING ABOUT ...... NOT large subs - small mids and tweets. It is not uncommon in an SQ competition vehicle to have an overlap of 2:1 or 3:1 past what the oscilliscope reads for no clipping at max volume to still have some usable output. So pretty much all car stereos clip at reasonable to loud volumes. It is also not uncommon in competition to see mid and tweets powered by a 150 W/ch X4 amp or bigger, for the above stated reasons.

Edited by PaulD

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That is why I have about 350 on my mids and highs(each)----headroom=good thing

You just like listening to the eagles really loud :)

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kinda like guns kill people---no---bullets do----but without the gun a bullet is useless

but without the shooter, both the gun and the bullets are useless... so what really kills people? the bullets, the guns, or the people?

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"If you can blame killings on the guns I can blame my misspelt words on my pencil (keyboard)"

/OT

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That is why I have about 350 on my mids and highs(each)----headroom=good thing

You just like listening to the eagles really loud :)

:lol2:

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that's also why I want a zapco 1000.4 for a mid tweet amp for my "competition" car. What I am competing with now was meant as a daily driver.

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If we could get a mini-group buy I might take a couple of those as well.

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