Jump to content
edouble101

All 4 disc brakes are nearly locked up

Recommended Posts

Vehicle: 2008 Hyundai Elantra, 4 wheel disc brakes, ABS equipped.

I was on my way home today and I was experiencing a drastic reduction in power. As I was pulling into a gas station to investigate my brake pedal was almost completely firm. I stopped the vehicle and smoke starting rising from all four wheels. I am currently waiting for a tow truck to home :(

I replaced all four rotors and pads 3 weeks ago. I didnt do anything with the brake lines or fluid.

Any idea why my brakes will lock up like this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We have had problems with this at work with our work vans. The ABS sensors go bad and have to be replaced.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

a few problems come to my head off top.

1 abs pump/ system failure. pull the relay/ fuse, to diable and try again,.

2 if something is slightly depressing the break pedle after a while it will build up pressure and apply the breaks..... i have seen this before, quick story,

a friends break light switch trigger rest point ( plastic disk) broke, so he placed a penny and taped it into place, made the tail lights work.. but the next day on the way to work (5 miles) his car started to lose power, then pretty much stopped in place, same deal, smoke from all wheels..

hope you get it fixed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hope its nothing major, and as others have suggested, I would try investigating those common issues first.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does the pedal move at all?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies fellas.

After I was towed home I glanced over a few things. The brake rotors are a shiny blue now. There wasn’t anything else obvious to the eye other than one thing that I knew about. The driver's side rear caliper is not working. I knew about this now for three weeks now. I know I need to fix it but I do not think this is the problem.

After coming home I took the car out for at 17 mile spin. There are no signs of brake issues whatsoever! This has me puzzled. The brake pedal has good feel, the brakes feel normal and no overheating.

When the brakes overheated I was going up a 1.5 mile hill, very steep actually. I was on the phone with a guy from Ohio Generator discussing retro fitting my car with a Ford large case alt. I wonder if I somehow had my foot on the brake and gas at the same time at some point. I do not think I did though. I was in fourth gear and had to downshift into third then had to downshift into second at 5,000 RPM just to make it up the hill.

Any more ideas? Does this sound like an intermittent problem?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If I'm not mistaken, didn't Hyundai have a recall for there stop lamp switch being defective and causing a bunch of problems?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If I'm not mistaken, didn't Hyundai have a recall for there stop lamp switch being defective and causing a bunch of problems?

I have not recieved a notice but I will look into it.

I followed the Haynes manual to troubleshoot the brake booster. Eveything seems fine. trippy.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try this,

With the engine OFF, depress the brake pedal several times to deplete the vacuum reserve.

Depress and maintain moderate foot pressure on the brake pedal.

Start the engine and observe pedal operation.

Observe for audible vacuum leaks.The brake pedal should fall slightly, then hold.

Is there an audible vacuum leak coming from the brake pedal area?

does the pedal fall slightly, then hold?

If either was no, your booster is bad. Also remove master cylinder without undoing lines, and look for brake fluid, if u see some, master cylinder and booster have to be replaced.

This is the service procedure for checking a vacuum booster, also suppose to be checked and done on a md state inspection

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try this,

With the engine OFF, depress the brake pedal several times to deplete the vacuum reserve.

Depress and maintain moderate foot pressure on the brake pedal.

Start the engine and observe pedal operation.

Observe for audible vacuum leaks.The brake pedal should fall slightly, then hold.

Is there an audible vacuum leak coming from the brake pedal area?

does the pedal fall slightly, then hold?

If either was no, your booster is bad. Also remove master cylinder without undoing lines, and look for brake fluid, if u see some, master cylinder and booster have to be replaced.

This is the service procedure for checking a vacuum booster, also suppose to be checked and done on a md state inspection

That was the inspection routine in the Hyanes manual as well, it passed.

I am thinking it could be the check valve in the vacuum line going to the booster?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Damn man that sucks, I really hope you get it figured out. I don't mess with my brakes as I've known a few people that have had failure after having them done by certified mechanics. Keep us updated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm surprised that car has a booster. Should have hydroboost.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×