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nastynice

two speakers, deaden those two doors or all 4?

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Got a 4 door, but only plan on running two speakers in the front. Is it going to make a difference if I deaden the rear doors?

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It's actually entirely up to you. Putting sound deadener on the rear doors isn't going to directly affect the sound of the components in the front doors the same way deadening the front doors will. However, depending on the degree to which you're planning on deadening the door it could make a difference in road noise, which can have an affect on the overall noise floor in the vehicle. If all you're planning on doing is putting Dynamat on without any use of closed cell foam (CCF) or mass loaded vinyl (MLV) then there's really no sense at all spending the money on putting the Dynamat CLD on your rear doors IMHO since CLD does nothing to stop noise, only panel resonance. Now if you were planning on utilizing the entire spectrum of products (CLD, CCF, & MLV) then I would definitely recommend deadening the rear doors. That will help stop panels from rattling (CCF does that), and block road noise (MLV does that) as well which helps lower the noise floor and make the entire audio experience that much more enjoyable.

Hope this helps.

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It's actually entirely up to you. Putting sound deadener on the rear doors isn't going to directly affect the sound of the components in the front doors the same way deadening the front doors will. However, depending on the degree to which you're planning on deadening the door it could make a difference in road noise, which can have an affect on the overall noise floor in the vehicle. If all you're planning on doing is putting Dynamat on without any use of closed cell foam (CCF) or mass loaded vinyl (MLV) then there's really no sense at all spending the money on putting the Dynamat CLD on your rear doors IMHO since CLD does nothing to stop noise, only panel resonance. Now if you were planning on utilizing the entire spectrum of products (CLD, CCF, & MLV) then I would definitely recommend deadening the rear doors. That will help stop panels from rattling (CCF does that), and block road noise (MLV does that) as well which helps lower the noise floor and make the entire audio experience that much more enjoyable.

Hope this helps.

wow, I've never knew deadening was that complicated. So I plan to just run my components off my headunit, will dynamat give me any noticeable benefit with such a weak system? My stock system sucks, and I want to get a legit amps and sub eventually, but for the time being I just want to get my components installed properly so I can just swap if I upgrade down the line.

I never heard of mlv or ccf before, is that pretty much available at most car audio shops?

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wow, I've never knew deadening was that complicated. So I plan to just run my components off my headunit, will dynamat give me any noticeable benefit with such a weak system? My stock system sucks, and I want to get a legit amps and sub eventually, but for the time being I just want to get my components installed properly so I can just swap if I upgrade down the line.

I never heard of mlv or ccf before, is that pretty much available at most car audio shops?

Dynamat makes their own CCF and MLV called DynaLiner and DynaPad. I've never used their products before, so I cannot comment on how well theirs works. I do know that going to SDS (Sound Deadener Showdown) will help teach you much about the uses of CLD, CCF and MLV in sound deadening as a whole.

Yes, simply putting some CLD (Dynamat) on your doors will help, but only marginally. Something is ALMOST, better than nothing, especially if it's a quality product, and it doesn't surprise me that sound deadening is a more complicated process than you previously realized. I'm not saying that to be mean or condescending either. I'm stating that because for YEARS now the accepted way to "deaden" a vehicle was to put in as much CLD in as many layers as a person could possibly afford. Not only was that the wrong way of doing it, it's also ridiculously more expensive and a complete waste of the dampener and because the stuff is expensive or perhaps the installers are simply not reading up, many shops STILL recommend doing it that way.

Read up on the SDS website, I think you'll be very surprised how much you can learn about deadening very quickly. SDS also has the best deadening products I've worked with. I would highly recommend it all.

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wow, I've never knew deadening was that complicated. So I plan to just run my components off my headunit, will dynamat give me any noticeable benefit with such a weak system? My stock system sucks, and I want to get a legit amps and sub eventually, but for the time being I just want to get my components installed properly so I can just swap if I upgrade down the line.

I never heard of mlv or ccf before, is that pretty much available at most car audio shops?

Dynamat makes their own CCF and MLV called DynaLiner and DynaPad. I've never used their products before, so I cannot comment on how well theirs works. I do know that going to SDS (Sound Deadener Showdown) will help teach you much about the uses of CLD, CCF and MLV in sound deadening as a whole.

Yes, simply putting some CLD (Dynamat) on your doors will help, but only marginally. Something is ALMOST, better than nothing, especially if it's a quality product, and it doesn't surprise me that sound deadening is a more complicated process than you previously realized. I'm not saying that to be mean or condescending either. I'm stating that because for YEARS now the accepted way to "deaden" a vehicle was to put in as much CLD in as many layers as a person could possibly afford. Not only was that the wrong way of doing it, it's also ridiculously more expensive and a complete waste of the dampener and because the stuff is expensive or perhaps the installers are simply not reading up, many shops STILL recommend doing it that way.

Read up on the SDS website, I think you'll be very surprised how much you can learn about deadening very quickly. SDS also has the best deadening products I've worked with. I would highly recommend it all.

I actually know of that site, after reading the first reply I got I started digging around a bit to see what this stuff is and came across that site. Its pretty informative. and don't worry, I got thick skin, I won't take much as condensceinding, I'm here to learn and am all ears

One question I do have, one of those materials is to block road noise, does that mean I won't really get much benefit if I cover the doors with it but leave the bottom of the vehicle? Although I'm sure completely encapsulating yourself in this material is going to yield better results than just covering two or four doors. I'm still curious as to wether if this stuff is still effective if not going for all out coverage.

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Doing just your doors does help a noticeable amount. Of course, as you mentioned, cocooning yourself/vehicle in it is obviously the best way to go and yields the best result, but you'll definitely notice the difference with just the doors done. In my Jimmy for example, I've done just the sides and doors with CLD & CCF so far and the results are beyond amazing. The first thing people notice when they ride in it is the nearly non existant squeaks and rattles that usually accompany the major road noise which is quite reduced as well. The trucks are just pretty notorious for being noisy rides. I plan on finishing the sides and doors with MLV as soon as funding and time allows, followed soon thereafter by treating the rest of the truck and I can't wait to get it done. For now though I'm very happy with and impressed by what it's doing for it so far.

Hope that helps to put some perspective on it.

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Great posts Alton. To Nastynice, feel free to check out my build log on my little Mazda wagon for an example of the system Alton is referring to.

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Great posts Alton. To Nastynice, feel free to check out my build log on my little Mazda wagon for an example of the system Alton is referring to.

where can I find your build log at?

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Doing just your doors does help a noticeable amount. Of course, as you mentioned, cocooning yourself/vehicle in it is obviously the best way to go and yields the best result, but you'll definitely notice the difference with just the doors done. In my Jimmy for example, I've done just the sides and doors with CLD & CCF so far and the results are beyond amazing. The first thing people notice when they ride in it is the nearly non existant squeaks and rattles that usually accompany the major road noise which is quite reduced as well. The trucks are just pretty notorious for being noisy rides. I plan on finishing the sides and doors with MLV as soon as funding and time allows, followed soon thereafter by treating the rest of the truck and I can't wait to get it done. For now though I'm very happy with and impressed by what it's doing for it so far.

Hope that helps to put some perspective on it.

cool, thanks for the info. I'm thinking of going cld/mlv. This stuff sounds pretty complicated, how would I know if a shop is legit enough to know how to properly install it all?

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It's really not all that complicated, it just takes a little time to do right. This is the log Aaron was talking about in his Mazda. It's really simple enough that you should be able to install this stuff on your own. As to finding out whether or not a shop can do it would depend completely on whether or not you feel comfortable enough with them after talking to them multiple times, seeing pictures of their own build processes, and talking to customers that they've done that type of work for before. If they're not willing to provide you with those three things then chances are its not a shop you want to be doing any business with at all. I'm pretty opinionated on that subject though as we've not had more than one shop around my area whose work was ever worth a damn anyway and the rest just ripped people off on a regular basis.

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It's really not all that complicated, it just takes a little time to do right. This is the log Aaron was talking about in his Mazda. It's really simple enough that you should be able to install this stuff on your own. As to finding out whether or not a shop can do it would depend completely on whether or not you feel comfortable enough with them after talking to them multiple times, seeing pictures of their own build processes, and talking to customers that they've done that type of work for before. If they're not willing to provide you with those three things then chances are its not a shop you want to be doing any business with at all. I'm pretty opinionated on that subject though as we've not had more than one shop around my area whose work was ever worth a damn anyway and the rest just ripped people off on a regular basis.

what if I come to a shop but I already have all the parts, headunit, speakers, sub, amps, wires and everything, and just ask them to do the install? Is this ever an issue when dealing with shops?

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It just depends on the shop. I've seen a few that wouldn't do it if you didn't buy the equipment from them, and I think the same rules for whether or not you feel comfortable with the shop still applies. I would imagine if you brought everything to them that the install would be done, being done correctly is a different matter. That's why I said to go in and talk to them on several occasions, see their build books (most shops have them in some form), and most importantly ask them specifically about the items you're going to have them install. If they give you what sounds like a BS answer about something then chances are they either know nothing about it (and therefore probably never installed it) or they don't have enough experience with it to trust the installation can be performed correctly, or even the way you want it done.

I've always done the work myself. I've never hired a shop to install anything, ever. The closest I've came to that was having Argent Audio build an enclosure for my sister's DCON because I simply didn't have the time to do it myself. It turned out perfect tho and if they still built enclosures I wouldn't hesitate to use them again if I had to. It was built to the exact specs I sent him and shipped to me in perfect condition. Otherwise I've always done it myself. The guided help I'm recommending above is the same questions I ask and such when I visit shops when traveling for the company I work for. It's taken years of practice, but I can get a general feel for a shops abilities and experience after about 30 minutes of conversation with sales and install techs. I use that simply to help educate myself about the kinds of work that's being performed, the common trends, and how it can translate into work back home. Even tho car audio work here has been at a near stand still for a long time, it's still nice to know what the high school kids are asking for, lol. (is joke, is joke)

Hope that's some kind of help anyway.

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yea bro, thanks for letting me know whats up. I guess it takes some time to get a feel for a shop. I guess seeing pics of their previous work and how well they know the equipment should tell me if they're legit or not

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