what next?? no more cvr lol

[davo 0]

hows it goin ereybody i have put in plenty of systems in my frineds and my rides but i recently had to start over again that being said im currently running a 07 cvr 12 d4 and a re audio dts 1000-1 for power i have noticed a rattling in my speaker and decided to shop for a new one when i came across the fact that FI has affordable and rebuildable subs i have never heard any of these but am seriously thinkin about takin the next step and going to a better speaker such as the FI bl3 12 or an obsidian audio 12 just would like some more info on these if anybody has any input id love to hear it

[altoncustomtech 773]

Fi builds fantastic subs. They're worth every penny!

With that amp I would recommend the Fi X series or the SSA GCON.

Most importantly, what were your plans on the enclosure? Subwoofers in general perform best in custom built enclosures, not the crappy prefabed enclosures that are purchased off the floor of a retail store.

[davo 0]

well i have my cvr in a prefab as of now id like to go with a slot ported box since im in a hatch theres alot of room back there i have been trying to find how to build one but the re audio box calculator that i had my plans all put in to i have since heard is not accurate and also ive never used a ported box so im alil gun shy to just build off those plans i was wanting to just build the ported box to see how it affects my good ol kicker but also im worried if i do that it wont be able to be used for anything else thanks for the reply alton also i checked it out alil better today and im sure its not my speaker thats rattling it sounds like my amp rattling bummer!!! but its still under waranty so im gonna rma it and see if i can go up to the dts 1500-1 since i do like the amp so far and am thinkin about getting a beefier sub i prefer to run more power than i really need by a lil so it cuts back on how much i have to turn up gain since its a cheap amp to begin with

Edited December 8, 2012 by davo

[altoncustomtech 773]

We can help you come up with an accurate enclosure design for the sub, that's not a problem. A well designed and built ported enclosure can sound great with a good deal more emphasis on the lower frequencies than a sealed enclosure. If the CVR is making noise then I wouldn't worry about it much at all, it's already got a problem. Build a box that is ideal for something like a Fi X series sub or the SSA GCON, Sundown SA-12 or whichever sub you decide to use. You can always drop the CVR in it just to play with.

[davo 0]

well ittl be a couple months before i can even order a new sub got my oladys b day xmas and our anniversary coming up over the next 3 weeks and im gonnna have to recoup a bit hahahaha but any help on the box situation would be most appreciated i guess i really just need to pick which sub im gonna upgrade to and go ahead and build the box and as u said i could always drop in the cvr but i did get my rma info on my amp and they said they will let me just pay the difference and get the dts1500.1 so im just gonna have to go without and beat in my ride till i get the amp back my main thing is im lookin for a great all around daily sub i drive acouple hours a day at the least do the gcon and sa12 have to be built by order and can they be rebuilt the abuility to rebuild is the main reason im interrested in getting a better sub

[altoncustomtech 773]

well ittl be a couple months before i can even order a new sub got my oladys b day xmas and our anniversary coming up over the next 3 weeks and im gonnna have to recoup a bit hahahaha but any help on the box situation would be most appreciated i guess i really just need to pick which sub im gonna upgrade to and go ahead and build the box and as u said i could always drop in the cvr but i did get my rma info on my amp and they said they will let me just pay the difference and get the dts1500.1 so im just gonna have to go without and beat in my ride till i get the amp back my main thing is im lookin for a great all around daily sub i drive acouple hours a day at the least do the gcon and sa12 have to be built by order and can they be rebuilt the abuility to rebuild is the main reason im interrested in getting a better sub

For future reference, please use punctuation. It's hard to follow the train of thought without it.

It's never a problem when it's going to take time to get something, we're all budget constrained, believe me, especially this time of year. The extra time is generally useful to ensure that you're buying what you really need and that you have everything else ready to go. Get me the maximum dimensions you have to work with along with how you want the sub and port oriented (sub and port on same face, sub firing up with the port firing rear) and I'll get you something drawn up. Everyone one of the subs I've mentioned so far can be rebuilt. Fi and SSA recones can be ordered directly from their respective websites and the subs pretty easily rebuilt. The Sundown subs can be rebuilt as well, you'll just have to contact them directly to order the recone I believe. As far as a great everyday sub, Fi, SSA, Sundown, Incriminator all make great subs for daily use and every one of them is repairable in the event of a failure so it kind of comes down to preference and budget.

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

[davo 0]

lol Sorry about the punctuation writing has never been a strong suit of mine. But the dimentions i have are 34w 16h and 15 d i could go bigger but if i have to get to my spare it will be a b*&ch. As for the port and sub placement ive always ran sealed and pointed twoard the back. I currently have my box pushed up against the back of my seat and playing into the open space created by the back of the seat being on a slant and my box being a 90 degree angle. It sounds the best with my current setup that being said i have no idea what the benefits to where i place them ( port and sub) on the enclosere will be or the drawbacks.

[davo 0]

Thanks for the welcome im kinda sneakin in some time on here as im at work so if i dissapear u know why lol

[altoncustomtech 773]

I'm not the least bit familiar with what orientation works the best with a Civic (assuming the car in your profile is the one you're speaking of). Hopefully the other members on here with that experience can chime in and help there.

The max dimensions you listed should be just fine for a single 12 ported, they come to about 3.68cuft GROSS. After sub and port displacements for about 40sqin of port area and a 32hz tuning you can fit a full 2.5cuft NET space in those dimensions after running the numbers. That space is right at the top of the optimal spec for the Fi X and IA Lethal Injection, at the bottom of the optimal spec for the GCON and a good bit above recommended spec for the SA-12. Which means that depending on the sub used and their respective displacement a person could play with extra port area and tuning to achieve great results in the exact same dimensions with any of those subs. Also, considering you'll be looking at having more power than those subs are rated making the enclosure on the smaller side of the recommended range would be advisable for mechanical handling reasons. It all comes down to which sub you want to use and the power you'll be using it on (that dts1500 is rated 700@2 ohms and 1000@1 ohm). Personally I would opt for a larger enclosure and get a 4ohm DVC configured sub ran at 2 ohms. The 700 watts is plenty enough to get any of these subs working really really well and at 2 ohms it would be much easier on the electrical system in that little car.

[davo 0]

I have done the big 3 upgrade but i did it with 4 ga wire, also im running 4 ga to my amp and 8ga ground. My factory 60 amp 12 v I was told thats all it was built to put out any way alt croaked and when i was lookin for a deal

i found a 130 amp 14.5 volt for a bill and put that in. I'll be dropping in a red top optima asap my lights dim more than i like sadly. I do hav a 3.5 f capacitor but im not sure if it'd help

[altoncustomtech 773]

Why do you have a smaller ground wire than your power wire? The same amount of current that flows through the positive wire flows through the negative wire. The ground wire should always be as short as possible and at least the same size at the positive wire.

Don't get confused by terminology when talking charging systems. A standard 12v system should charge in the 14.4v neighborhood. While you can build a 14v standard electrical system it will charge at about 16 volts which will fry the car's and auxilary (like the HU) electronics. 130 amps is still light for a 1500 watt amp, too light for my tastes. You'd have less issues with your lights dimming and such running the new amp at 2 ohms and those subs will still get plenty loud. Aside from that none of those subs will last long on 1500 watts of power. That's more than double the rated power for most of them. Of course you could look at the higher powered subs but they'll cost more money and then you'll still have big issues with dimming and low voltage. Capacitor's will not help anything at all and in many cases will just make the low voltage problems even worse.

Having the big 3 done in 4awg is fine for that size alternator. You should really make your ground wire 4awg as well. The dimming/low voltage issues and that small ground likely played a part in the very probable severe distortion that has damaged that CVR. Are you using any bass boost? I would definitely call Those problems and using any bass boost at all the culprit behind the CVR's failure.

[davo 0]

I thought it was s.o.p. for a 12 volt system to charge at 14.5 thankyou for confirming this.

I found that it wasnt my cvr but my amp that was rattling thats why im gonna rma my dts 1000.1 and change up to the 1500.1 but i want to run it at 2 ohms as u advised

my bass boost is maybe 10% up not much at all

I didnt realise that it would cause that much of a problem with the 8 ga for a ground as i was told by the re audio tech guysto use 8 ga. I thought that sounded fishy to run an amp of these power ratings on and also i ran out of connectors so used my old ground that i was using on a lanzar vibe 210 P.O.S. amp but it got me through lol So ill just go grab some connectors tomorrow and make a 4 ga ground.

[davo 0]

Btw man i was lookin at that box u did for the van that thing is effing SICK looking!!!!!!!!

[davo 0]

I forgot to ask how much room do i need between the port opening and the nearest wall in my car such as the back of the seat or the back of the hatch space?

I didnt leave but about 3 inches betwen the box and seat or back of the car when i gave the measurements erlier. fail