2x RL-P15 D4 in 2001 F150

[rfpcreations 0]

as of right now i am sound dampening, already heavily dynomated but not enough for me personally. so i am covering the interior with mdf and foaming between the mdf and all metal. the back wall will be about 3"soild, needless to say i want solid. i am going to have the subs facing up behind the two front seats, i have 12.9 cu ft gross and 10.77 net cu ft of space to work with. the box will be constructed from 1.5" mdf and internally braced with 5/8" all thread. the plan is to have an interchangable port set-up for SQ and SPL for compitition. if anyone has any ideas i would like to hear them, this is the first time i have ever used soundsplinter subs. my last sub i had in this truck was a cerwin vega stroker 15"d4. the amp i am using is a modified us amp 1000 that puts out around 1800x1 @1 ohm. i am looking for stupidly insane bass!!!!!!!!

Edited April 5, 2006 by rfpcreations

[mrray13 30]

definitely sounds solid!

900wrms per 15 should wang like mad! in reality though, you'll only need about 3-3.5 cubes per sub NET. so you have plenty of room.

has to changeable ports, there are a few guys here who have built them, usually involving one sliding inside the other and bieng bolted down using t-nuts.

for the sq side, i'd suggest tuning in the 32hz range, maybe a bit lower with 35-40in^2 of port per sub.

for all out spl, double the port area and tune about 45hz(but i'd test to make sure). IME, both of my full si\ze xcab trucks peaked in the 52-55hz range. (one dodge, one chevy)

hope that helps a bit! and good luck and don't forget

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[///M5 2,833]

Either that or if you have room you can bolt on an extension to the port to tune it lower with some T-nuts.

[rfpcreations 0]

can anyone help with inserting pics taken with a digital camera. if some one could help with this i will post some pics.

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

can anyone help with inserting pics taken with a digital camera.  if some one could help with this i will post some pics.   

go to a website like imageshack.us and upload the image from your computer to the website then copy and past the link they provide you into a post

[rfpcreations 0]

ok here is the first pic i have of the wall being costructed, i will post more pics later this week so i have time to go through them. the wall is about 2.75" thick. you can also see i started on the lower shelf that will go down to the floor witch will get the same treatment. now that is what i call sound dampening.

Edited April 5, 2006 by rfpcreations

[///M5 2,833]

You could have used cement.

[Eldorado 0]

To heavy.

[mrray13 30]

nice work so far!! really nice to see someone taking thee time to do ti right...

but don't you think that it's a bit overkill?? in some cases (unless you are running an extreme class or something), too much deadning can actually hurt your score.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[KickinAudio 5]

That will hurt score, but I don't think that is what he's shooting for.

[///M5 2,833]

To heavy.

your understanding of my sarcasm is a bit lacking.

[rfpcreations 0]

well my idea with the wall is the box will be mounted to the wall and floor (bolted that is) so the way i was thinking was the wall will just become part of the box. reinforcment if you will and prevent sound waves from going behind the enclosure and that would be a waste in spl comitition as you want as much of the sound waves working there way to the front glass. plus my friend's jeep the thinnest wall is 2.5" thick and he hit 160+db with one solo 18". so basically i am directing the waves forward. at least that is the intention. please give feed back to give some insight. the funny is i was thinking of using a concrete fiberglass mixture to fill the wall with but weight really was the issue.

[mrray13 30]

well my idea with the wall is the box will be mounted to the wall and floor (bolted that is) so the way i was thinking was the wall will just become part of the box. reinforcment if you will and prevent sound waves from going behind the enclosure and that would be a waste in spl comitition as you want as much of the sound waves working there way to the front glass.  plus my friend's jeep the thinnest wall is 2.5" thick and he hit 160+db with one solo 18".  so basically i am directing the waves forward. at least that is the intention. please give feed back to give some insight. the funny is i was thinking of using a concrete fiberglass mixture to fill the wall with but weight really was the issue.

this jeep, any pics? what mic? power?

the idea of the waves has to do with the length of the note your playing. it's based on the 1/4, 1/2, full wave idea of having the sounds waves reaching the mic at one of those points, which is when that note is at it's strongest. (i believe that's the proper explaination). the problem with full size xcab trucks is, they aren't the right length for the note they typically play.

take your friends jeep. it's longer inside the cabin then your truck. (most any suv for that matter) same gear, same power, same box, identical setup, he'll be louder 98% (more like 100%, IME)of the time. crx's were built same way, only they typically used the 1/4wave part)

so the goal jsut isn't to direct the waves forward, but to allow them to develop to a certain point by the time they reach the glass. if it was too simply point them forward, i would've been hitting 160 with 18" solox and ma audio hk4000d a long time ago...lol....(2004 chevy silverado xcab)

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[///M5 2,833]

Basically to take it down to Tom's Physics class level, you WANT Constructive interference to be at where the mic is and all the deconstructive elsewhere. Once you know the resonant frequency of your cab, you will know the wavelength of that resonance and having the mic position be at a location where a peak in the wave lengths will meet. Of course, the theory breaks down in that you cannot completely predict all of the reflections and such, but as long as your fundamental is close to being on you should have a maxima at your acoustic field there. Oh that and there really shouldn't be much destructive since the wavelengths are longer than your cab. I'd play around with a mic and an oscilloscope once you have located your box and see if you can improve things more.

[Eldorado 0]

To heavy.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

your understanding of my sarcasm is a bit lacking.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Not really, i knew you were being sarcastic

I was just being a smart allec

[rfpcreations 0]

sorry no pics of the jeep , but i might be able to get a hold of some the next time i see my friend john. not really sure where he was competing when he hit that # so i will also ask him about the mic. as for the power he is using a us amp competition amp it puts out 8000 watts it was custom built for his company in ohio, the owner is a good friend of someone at us amp. the enclosure is a true comp style box that filled the entire back of the jeep and angled back 2 corners no front passenger seat using the formula (A*3=B+C+D) check link. i am sure he said the port side was tuned to 65HZ but if not close to it.http://www.audiobahn.com/Audiobahn06/image...l/SPL_Chart.pdf i will do alot of testing when i install the box. thanks for the insight on waves. by the way can someone tell me what the freq. resp of the rl-p15" is? thanks!!!!!!

Edited April 8, 2006 by rfpcreations