High Output Alternator Questions

[ToXicFrOgXx 7]

If changing the negative ground will not help with anything then would could be causing the dramatic drop in voltage?? With the 180 amp alternator there should be no shortage of amps ready to use. It is still fairly cool out too and I'm worried that the 100+ temps will cause my voltage to drop even lower than it does now. The only thing that could really make a difference from what I am hearing is to ground the amps to the negative post on the batt. And getting a new batt. Its a little frustrating that the 14.7 steady volts aren't coming from the alternator since it was so expensive but everybody's help is much appreciated. Tomorrow I will be able to go through all my connections and make sure that everything it grounded to well sanded metal. If that does not make a difference should I remove the new alternator until August when I can afford a new battery?? To keep it from getting damaged??

[edouble101 314]

If changing the negative ground will not help with anything then would could be causing the dramatic drop in voltage?? With the 180 amp alternator there should be no shortage of amps ready to use. It is still fairly cool out too and I'm worried that the 100+ temps will cause my voltage to drop even lower than it does now. The only thing that could really make a difference from what I am hearing is to ground the amps to the negative post on the batt. And getting a new batt. Its a little frustrating that the 14.7 steady volts aren't coming from the alternator since it was so expensive but everybody's help is much appreciated. Tomorrow I will be able to go through all my connections and make sure that everything it grounded to well sanded metal. If that does not make a difference should I remove the new alternator until August when I can afford a new battery?? To keep it from getting damaged??

 

There was more said that what you are hearing. There were multiple possibilities given as to why you are having voltage issues. I do not know why you would buy a new battery without getting your existing one tested first. Again, something that I already mentioned.

[ToXicFrOgXx 7]

Everybody's input has helped. I will be checking all my connections tomorrow before work and Saturday I will have my battery tested to see what state it is in. After that I will look into grounding my amps to the front batt negative with new battery new terminals. I just want my purchase to have a long, well lived life.

[frogcase2002 393]

I would put your low pass around 80 or 90 . That's one thing thats taking volts having it up so high. Also you should probley turn your bass boost all the way down ( cant believe know one said that yet lol) both of them things should help....... also I would do a ground from batt to your motor. And make sure all other grounds are grinded down really good and tightened good

[garychurch84 127]

Imo i'd would hook mine to the battery or alternator if it was me.but that's just me.the gauge

Edited April 26, 2013 by garychurch84

[ToXicFrOgXx 7]

Im going to check all my grounds tomorrow. But today while I was driving home without any music on the voltage was sitting at 13.9 volts and if I turned the music up to what I call high/regular volume the voltage would drop as low as 12.9 volts and only come back up to 13.8. I will change the bass boost and low pass tomorrow but even with the amp not doing anything at all the alternator is not putting out a very good voltage in the first place. I have heard nothing but good things about Singer alternators and cant figure out why mine is not working like all the other ones I've seen. Mike said to run that ground from the batt negative to the alternator bolt and check the belt. I have the alternator mount grounded on the chassis and the belt is tight (no noise or slipping). I just don't get it... The 20 year old stock 80 amp alternator would come back to a 14.4 even after I ran my sub as loud as I could without clipping...

[muddybass 13]

An alternator is the backbone to a good system it charges the batteries but it can only do so much. With the little amount of reserve power you have and considering your battery might be reaching the end of its life. Mike is right as I told you before about hooking a ground wire up to the ground post on the alternator. As far as damaging the alternator I am certain you wont and plus he does off a lifetime warranty which is very nice

[ToXicFrOgXx 7]

I ran a ground wire from the negative battery post to the top mounting bolt on the alternator and it seemed to work a little better. The voltage was sitting at 14.4 but I didn't get a chance to drive around and test it yet. I will be taking in my battery to get tested later today or maybe tomorrow. If it turns out that I need a new one I will start researching which one I will need to get. I was interrupted by the FedEx guy bringing a special package containing a BL 15. Lol. I will see how the alternator preforms when I drive to work today. Thanks everyone for your help. I will work on everything you guys mentioned to help my install preform a little cleaner!!

[edouble101 314]

If you need a new battery a Sears Diehard Platinum is a good buy.

[muddybass 13]

Just make sure you purchase an agm battery.. And your gonna wanna get one with the most amp hours possible a group 31 would be good if you could fit it

[ToXicFrOgXx 7]

I was just reading up on some posts in the Amd Head Unit section on the forum and sound a thread talking about the fuse between the alternator and the battery causing resistance and making it harder for the alternator to put out. I have a KnuConceptz inline fuse holder with 3 60 amp mini ANl fuses inbetween. Could this be the reason my alternator is sitting at 14 volts instead of something higher?? To much resistance?? Sounds plausable??

[muddybass 13]

I don't use a fuse between the alternator and battery just battery to amp

[muddybass 13]

also use a dmm and see what the alternator is charging from the top post of the alternator then you will see what it is actually putting out

[shizzzon 461]

For one- you should fuse ALL power cables at every termination.

Two- Knukonceptz fuse holders, battery terminals, distribution blocks.. they all suck.

 

I have not once seen one of their Furrowed-fitted devices actually support what they should support.

 

If your block is getting warm or hot, remove it because it's causing resistance.

 

If you had a dmm, you could measure this yourself.

[muddybass 13]

For one- you should fuse ALL power cables at every termination.

Two- Knukonceptz fuse holders, battery terminals, distribution blocks.. they all suck.

 

I have not once seen one of their Furrowed-fitted devices actually support what they should support.

 

If your block is getting warm or hot, remove it because it's causing resistance.

 

If you had a dmm, you could measure this yourself.

A Fuse isn't always needed from your alternator to battery the oem wire doesn't use a fuse. But im sure it wont hurt..

[shizzzon 461]

Oh really?

 

Pop your fuse box open under your hood and locate the largest fuse in there and see what it's protecting.

[muddybass 13]

Oh really?

 

Pop your fuse box open under your hood and locate the largest fuse in there and see what it's protecting.

I don't have a fuse box under the hood.

[muddybass 13]

largest fuse is master ignition

[shizzzon 461]

 

my generalized suggestion was unsuccessful, lol.

 

As long as it wasn't removed, the charge wire IS fused.

 

My stock alt's fusing is in the fuse panel under the hood and is using dual fuses for protection.

 

theoretically, even the remote wire should be fused.. but the headunit would shut off typically before anything crazy happened.

That or the wire would melt and become non-conductive at the end due to how small it is.

 

Point is, not fusing a live wire can cause danger consequences when in a wreck or something else unforseen happen.

[muddybass 13]

 

my generalized suggestion was unsuccessful, lol.

 

As long as it wasn't removed, the charge wire IS fused.

 

My stock alt's fusing is in the fuse panel under the hood and is using dual fuses for protection.

 

theoretically, even the remote wire should be fused.. but the headunit would shut off typically before anything crazy happened.

That or the wire would melt and become non-conductive at the end due to how small it is.

 

Point is, not fusing a live wire can cause danger consequences when in a wreck or something else unforseen happen.

You are correct but seeing as 9/10 when an accident occurs and the airbags are tripped it automatically shuts off the engine. Therefore not being able to send a charge through that wire. But like I said that's 9/10 you always have to leave error for human error or manufacturer malfunction.

[shizzzon 461]

shutting off the engine will only stop the alternator, not the battery.

 

Battery is primary source and always live, 24\7.

 

PS- i tried looking on your vehicle and all i can seem to find is the charging wire is protected using a fusible link and not an actual fuse.  

[muddybass 13]

whos vehicle?

[shizzzon 461]

yours..  That's all i could find for an 04 f250.

[muddybass 13]

I followed stock charging wire and one goes to battery other to starting source but looks like no fuse

[ToXicFrOgXx 7]

^{I do have a dmm and I checked the voltage coming off of the posative post of the alternator and it was running exactly the same as after the fuse. So thats not the problem. I was unable to get my battery checked this weekend due to work but Ive checked all my grounds and connections elsewhere and everything looks good and secure. So I've some to the conclusion that the battery can not handle the intial pull of a heavy bass hit but the alternator can help the battery keep up a long rolling bass note. I will save up and look into an Optima Yellow top for my BDay in August and hope that clears up all voltage drop I have. Thanks for all your help everybody!!}