Faital 6FE200 with what tweeters?

[gprestonmoto 89]

I was going to save a bit of cash and order some Exodus Anarchy's, but lo and behold a nice little pair of Faital Pro 6FE200's have fallen into my lap. I'm looking for tweeter suggestions. I will probably be mounting off axis in sails or a pillars. Budget is under $150 for the pair. $150 being absolute maximum.

[altoncustomtech 773]

There's a BIG difference between the Faital's and the Anarchy's.  Those Faital's are more of a midrange than a midbass and I think you're going to be very dissatisfied with the results you get from them.  I'm not saying they're bad speakers, they have their purpose but for the application you're intending to use them in they're going to fall way short of ideal.

[///M5 2,833]

Going to need a midbass to go with those as well.

[///M5 2,833]

That or a ported enclosure. Pro audio mids do not like IB.

[gprestonmoto 89]

Hmm maybe I should sell em or trade em. What tweeters work well with exodus?

[lithium 358]

good idea. large formats like peerless hds are usually recommended. there might be a small format that works too if you cant fit a large format

[///M5 2,833]

Hmm maybe I should sell em or trade em. What tweeters work well with exodus?

I would, the 8FE200 and 10 are WAY better drivers than the 6 and they still need a ported enclosure to have an even reasonable midbass response.

As for tweeters, location and size we need first

[gprestonmoto 89]

Size doesn't matter 1" to 3". Fiberglass doesn't care.

[///M5 2,833]

How far off axis? Generically speaking drivers that excel off axis don't play low.

[gprestonmoto 89]

I understand that. I'm not running zcons on 5500. Pretty simple really. Audison sr1dk (1200@1ohm) going to a Crystal cmpx2 12. Linear Power 3002 for mids and 2202 for tweeters. All for dodge ram 1500.

[gprestonmoto 89]

I can put them on axis if necessary but does that sound like shit to passengers.

[altoncustomtech 773]

I can put them on axis if necessary but does that sound like shit to passengers.

 

Do you really care as the driver?  lol

 

In all seriousness it does affect how it sounds to the passenger, how much it affects it depends on the drivers being used, placement, etc. etc. etc. but when I demo the van or the Jimmy I always sit in the passenger seat and let the person I'm demoing it for sit in the drivers seat so they get the full effect.

 

It's like anything else, it's all about compromise.

[gprestonmoto 89]

I've seen people who run full rangers instead of tweeters.Is there a point to this? And what do they play? Like 1kHz to 20? Seems like I might end up just trying to make horns work again.

[altoncustomtech 773]

I've seen people who run full rangers instead of tweeters.Is there a point to this? And what do they play? Like 1kHz to 20? Seems like I might end up just trying to make horns work again.

 

Full ranges play just that, a full range of frequencies or at least a fuller range than most.  It all depends on the driver and application but for instance in my Jimmy right now I have the Fountek FE85's playing from 200hz on up.  The purpose is for the sake of imaging and stage to have one speaker playing the majority of the directional frequencies pointing directly at the listener, basically.  They help to eliminate issues that you have with multiple drivers trying to play frequencies that are highly directional from different locations and frequencies that the drivers typically have a hard time to play properly.  Typically that comes at a cost of a lessened very top end and while I will admit that the Fountek's can't quite nail 16khz and up like a tweeter can they sure as hell don't do a bad job either and it's more than good enough for me.

 

As most 6.5" drivers start having response issues in the 2khz ish neighborhood and most car audio tweeters have a difficult time playing much below 3khz.  Typically the manufacturers will have the 6.5 play up into the 3 to 3.5khz region to protect the tweeter and in most cases there's not enough issue with doing so to cause problems for the majority of users/listeners.  Some exotic cone materials will have issues with response much earlier than that, others later but the point is the driver will suffer from beaming and cone breakup at some point in it's response.  As for tweeters even the best ones do good to get below 2khz and typically won't get very far below.  Even then they will often suffer from distortion issues at high listening levels because those frequencies are simply asking too much from the driver.  

 

These are the reasons why Sean and Brad are so adamant about driver placement, size restraints, etc. because those things determine what drivers can and can't be used for that application and then the compromises that have to be made to the response, stage, imaging, etc. to use the drivers that can fit the application.  There's just no perfect world with this stuff, no perfect setup where everything is played perfectly.  Compromise has to be made in every choice or decision and sometimes it's hard to REALLY understand just what that compromise ends up costing us sometimes until we hear it for ourselves.  Most people are convinced that it's not a big enough concern to worry about it.  Then again most people think we're blowing our money on this hobby anyway because what comes in the cars from the factory is good enough for them.  That's just a matter of perspective, personal taste and drive.

[gprestonmoto 89]

I've seen people who run full rangers instead of tweeters.Is there a point to this? And what do they play? Like 1kHz to 20? Seems like I might end up just trying to make horns work again.

 

Full ranges play just that, a full range of frequencies or at least a fuller range than most.  It all depends on the driver and application but for instance in my Jimmy right now I have the Fountek FE85's playing from 200hz on up.  The purpose is for the sake of imaging and stage to have one speaker playing the majority of the directional frequencies pointing directly at the listener, basically.  They help to eliminate issues that you have with multiple drivers trying to play frequencies that are highly directional from different locations and frequencies that the drivers typically have a hard time to play properly.  Typically that comes at a cost of a lessened very top end and while I will admit that the Fountek's can't quite nail 16khz and up like a tweeter can they sure as hell don't do a bad job either and it's more than good enough for me.

 

As most 6.5" drivers start having response issues in the 2khz ish neighborhood and most car audio tweeters have a difficult time playing much below 3khz.  Typically the manufacturers will have the 6.5 play up into the 3 to 3.5khz region to protect the tweeter and in most cases there's not enough issue with doing so to cause problems for the majority of users/listeners.  Some exotic cone materials will have issues with response much earlier than that, others later but the point is the driver will suffer from beaming and cone breakup at some point in it's response.  As for tweeters even the best ones do good to get below 2khz and typically won't get very far below.  Even then they will often suffer from distortion issues at high listening levels because those frequencies are simply asking too much from the driver.  

 

These are the reasons why Sean and Brad are so adamant about driver placement, size restraints, etc. because those things determine what drivers can and can't be used for that application and then the compromises that have to be made to the response, stage, imaging, etc. to use the drivers that can fit the application.  There's just no perfect world with this stuff, no perfect setup where everything is played perfectly.  Compromise has to be made in every choice or decision and sometimes it's hard to REALLY understand just what that compromise ends up costing us sometimes until we hear it for ourselves.  Most people are convinced that it's not a big enough concern to worry about it.  Then again most people think we're blowing our money on this hobby anyway because what comes in the cars from the factory is good enough for them.  That's just a matter of perspective, personal taste and drive.

I'm not too worry about fabrication. I want this to sound as good as possible. Money will always be a determining factor, but I can glass or build anything I need to make it work. On axis is not really any sacrifice. Glassing a pillars or sail panels is the same amount of work whether they're facing the driver or not, so I can happily accommodate on axis mounting. I just need to find something with good midbass in the factory door location, and some tweeters that can be run off a Linear Power 2202 (obviously gain will be down to nothing lol) that will fill the gap. I can even hot pos a pair of ribbons to handle 16kHz and up if I need to, shouldn't be a problem. So are Anarchy's the way to go? Or is there something else I should look into in the under 150 budget? Midbass will be run off a modified 3002. 150rms @ 8 ohms. I guess if anyone is looking for 6FE's, they'll be in the for sale section as soon as they arrive.

[///M5 2,833]

There is no "way to go" only a set of compromises for you to make.

If you needed a real way to go, then it is put your whole front stage as far away from you as possible, as high up as possible with the tweeter & mid as close together as possible. Once you cannot do any one of those you are compromising.

Anarchy is a great midbass and a decent mid. If you are a midrange buff and are okay with having your sub play midbass then it wouldn't be a good choice. It also creates the need for a tweeter that can play low. This usually means a large format tweeter that isn't terribly off axis (on axis in a car usually only works for full rangers).

There is a reason we ask questions about your needs, mounting locations, and goals and that is there is no way to go for everyone as everyone has different compromises to make. As for the sound as good as possible, that is also subjective. I can pretty much guarantee what I prefer for sound you would probably find to be seriously lacking in bass, but it is part of my 'as good as possible' requirement. The system should be built for YOU, not anyone else. That of course brings up another compromise. The better it sounds for you the worse it will for your passengers. No spatial way around that.

[gprestonmoto 89]

I do not want my subs playing midbass. 63Hz is my crossover point. Looks like I'm going back to Anarchy's and Horns.

[gprestonmoto 89]

Looks like FE85's in the A pillars on axis would be nice. Maybe I'll give that a shot. Any recs on mounting? Do they need to be sealed? Vented?

[///M5 2,833]

If you are an output fiend, don't expect magic from a little 3" driver. Far cry from the capability that horns offer.

No real need for ported as the anarchy will take care of the midbass. Sealed though isn't a terrible idea.