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Box size has alot to do with mechanical power handling. If you are going to be pushing your woofer beyond it's rated RMS power you need to be very mindful of this fact and put the woofer in no larger than the minimum suggested enclosure for music program. We design our woofers for very small enclosures and power ratings are there for a reason -- you can continue to push a driver like the SA-8 beyond RMS power and it will not be stressed whatsoever thermally by the time you can cause mechanical issues. The motor, especially on the SA-8, is VERY strong -- being an 8" driver there is limited mechanical throw available. The driver retains high motor force all the way up to the point where you can start breaking it. In any event... based on my testing so far you can expect something like the following on mechanical power handling vs. ported box size on the SA-8 : 1.25 cubic feet = 300 watts 1.00 cubic feet = 400 watts 0.80 cubic feet = ~450-500 watts 0.60 cubic feet = ~500-600 watts You may ALSO need a subsonic filter depending on box tuning. The rated RMS power is 400 watts RMS -- if you push past that you are voiding warranty coverage. We are bringing in re-cone parts and they can be fixed, though, for those of you who like to push things. If you have any doubts about your ability to monitor your listening habits just stick to the 0.60 recommendation. To re-iterate... they are not fragile. I have ton ALOT of testing on them with enormous amounts of power -- the above considers full bandwidth music program that can drop to very low frequencies and is a safe suggestion. If you are an SPL competitor then you probably already know this and these suggestions don't really apply for burps @ tuning. We have put in excess of 600% of RMS power on them for SPL burps.

Hey guys, We had a little meet-up today in San Marcos... just a few people including myself, Jon, Alex (inkfx) and Hugo (onebadmonte). Did a few TL runs, attracted the attention of a kid who drove by and tried to sell some Kicker subs to Jon (thanks btw I still have a slight headache haha). Scores (Correct me if I'm wrong): Hugo - 135.8 ? Alex - 139.6 Matt - 143.1 Jon - Umm.... technical difficulties?? lol! Loud as hell but the TermLab wasn't registering it for some reason

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdoHHK27RMM

just an excursion video, audio is crappy cause i used my phone i keep forgetting my camera at home

Funny thing is the question is moot anyways. If you actually LISTEN to your driver it will tell you many, many things before it breaks. It isn't hard to know when to stop. Not needing to break-in is NOT an excuse to be a friggin idiot and blow your stuff up. Just note that whether you "broke it in" or not it is 100% completely your fault. The drivers parameters will change and stabilize after some use, but the changes will happen whether you want or not and making it happen slowly has absolutely no benefit in the process. The ONLY thing you need to do is start low and gradually turn things up, not at all to protect your sub based on its state as new, but to insure that you the operator didn't make any install boo-boo's that could cause it to fail *note again these would all be installer/operator error*.

damnnnn

Yeah funny though that no other sub but the ia had a problem. I understand you spent some money and just bought some drivers and they are already blown and that isn’t fun, but I usually don't take kind to people that blame our brand as the only brand at fault. Maybe if you broke one driver - then possibly it was our fault, but two of them seem almost impossible if you do the odds. Out of all the Flatlynes sold you just broke the first two. Something is going on and since I’ve never seen your car I have no idea what it is. Tell me what happened when the driver went bad? Did it smell? Mechanical noise? Maybe, we can resolve the problem at get you fixed up! Thanks, Nick

Damn, Dont You Just Love User Error?

You said "6db out of 18db", which means you must be talking about the EQ network built into the amplifier. 6db of boost requires that the amplifier output 4x the power. So if you have the gain set to where the amplifier is outputting 1250w and then apply the additional 6db of boost, the amplifier will try to output 5000w of power at and near the center frequency of the EQ. What's going to happen when that 1250w amplifier tries to output 5kw? Clipping. Negative kicker sx amplifiers have no dials its all digtial through a controller on the dash the amp has built in DSP, Kompressor, and EQ as well as LPF, Band pass, and HPF. The Eq focus is set to flat at 60hz with a Q value of 1.0 which is nothing. As far as gain goes it has three option 1v-2v-4v. It then has an adjustment of gain in db with a high of 18db per channel and a low of 0, 0 is no gain. According to the manual: Gain Menu; Now use the UP and DOWN keys to increase or decrease the gain of the amplifier in .5 dB increments from 0 dB to +12 dB. (.0 to 12.0) EQ Menu; BOOST/CUT is how much you want to boost or cut the equalizer and has a range of -18 dB to + 18 dB in .5 dB steps In which case, if you are using the adjustment that goes up to 18db that would be the equalizer and not the gain as the gain only goes to 12db.

You said "6db out of 18db", which means you must be talking about the EQ network built into the amplifier. 6db of boost requires that the amplifier output 4x the power. So if you have the gain set to where the amplifier is outputting 1250w and then apply the additional 6db of boost, the amplifier will try to output 5000w of power at and near the center frequency of the EQ. What's going to happen when that 1250w amplifier tries to output 5kw? Clipping.

As far as i know it is 2v non fading, i have it set to 2v Match and 6db of gain out of 18db. I dont see how that would be clipping the signal. This is just odd because i have ran many subs off the same settings, never a problem until the flatlyne. Here are a couple very informative links for you to read through. Amplifier Gains and Preouts - SSA Car Audio Forum How To: Set your Amplifier Gain - SSA Car Audio Forum

1.5 max for ported and a single 4" aero is fine. Stay within Fi's specs. It will do you good.

well, you could throw a ton of power at them to make up for the smaller box

No, bad idea. Instead buy subs that fit the box you can build. smaller box= more power handling correct? i know going that route would be less "efficient"