Leaderboard

Bl curve basically shows the force of the motor relative to excursion, both forward and rearward. As you can see in the below picture, Bl (motor force) is on the Y axis and excursion is on the X axis. The curve shows the change in motor force as the coil moves through the range of excursion. We can use the graph to define Xmag, which is the maximum linear operating range of the motor. This is defined by Klippel (the measuring system used to generate this graph) as the point at which the motor force (Bl) has fallen to 70.7% of it's rest value. Xmag is important because it is one of the determinants of Xmax, which defines the maximum linear excursion the driver is capable of achieving, which can be used to define the maximum usable output a driver is capable of achieving. Xmax is the lesser of Xmag and Xsus (Xsus being the linear maximum linear operating range of the suspension). The graph also shows us the linearity of the motor. There are a few schools of thought on the "ideal" curve, but generally we would like to see the motor force stay relatively constant throughout the operating range of the driver. This means the curve wouldn't be as much of a "curve" as it would be a plateau, like the one pictured below, that stays flat for a period of time then begins to roll-off at the edges. The Bl curves for some drivers look more like an upside-down "U", those are said to be "parabolic" curves (there's some of that high school geometry you swore you'd never use in real life!). The reason we would like to see the "curve" stay flat is that if the curve is moving upward or downward, this is indicating a change in motor force at those excursion levels. This is generally bad for driver performance for a few reasons, but primarily because a change in motor force will cause a change in Thiele-Small parameters which will affect the response of the driver, and because a change in motor force will create non-linearities that will manifest as distortion. So yes, generally a Bl curve will give us an idea of the performance we can expect to see from a driver and can give us a glimpse into the quality of the design of the motor. But it takes more than a Bl curve to give us a good idea as to the "SQ" of a given driver. A Bl curve alone won't do it. But a good driver starts with a good foundation......and a nice Bl curve indicates a well thought out and well executed motor design, which is a great start to having a great driver

Qtc = Qts * [ ( Vas / Vb ) + 1 ]^.5

......and then Rush comes on pandora.... Epic, and unplanned moment FTW.

The amps When he gets the 2 XS batts, he will have to change a lot of things (power, ground wires,...). But for now it is not too ugly ! As usual the pics are bad quality, sorry ! I'll get a real camera one day ! I don't know how he does that !!!

The box :

the doors :

The BL is the motor strength in tesla-meters. It is the magnetic flux of the motor (B) times the length of wire in the magnetic gap (L)

Thanks man.FloridaSPL always gets first look at my builds.Where do you get your Stinger stuff from?If you ever need anything that you can't seem to get your hands on, I am a dealer and would be more than happy to help a fellow forum member up I agree, so without further ado..... Coupling the two 10 gauge positive wires from the sub to the one 12 gauge speaker wire Heatshrinked And taped Depth when mounted in the box

So......Who's ready for bass?

More Damplifier Pro

I'd say at least 125, but I am an SQ guy who rarely ever pounds. But in my GN with a 1500 watt class AB and another 2X100 for comps i only have a 120 amp alt... well, it also has an AGM in the trunk... All things considered a 175-200 should be good for a DD ground pounder. Also, do the big 3. I know people recommend 1/0 but 4ga is enough for the short runs associated with the big 3. If you look at this chart you will see you can safely run 4Ga wire at 200 amps for runs up to 20 feet (although I would ideally like more for that distance). But look at the figures that matter... 200 amps can safely carry across 6 ga for 10 feet and 8 ga for 7 feet. Honestly, you shouldn't have a run longer then 7 feet, as ideally you want to complete the run with the shortest possible run to reduce the resistance in the circuit... But to be safe, double up on the minimum. Awaits the basting for not recommending 1/0 . But seriously, it's true.

i can tell you are just getting started, so lets get a few basics out of the way. if you have a BTL then 1000w will work just fine, but you arent going to be maxing out your potential. if you are fine with this, get the 1000w amp. i would advise something in the 1500w to 2000w range tho. its always easier to start off with the "right " equipment than to have to buy something, sell it, and buy something else. that ends up getting expensive. as far as turning the sub on/off, yes you can do that with an EQ. But, you can also do that with a remote gain found commonly on larger amps. as far as your car and its electrical system, realize you need to do everything eventually. if you want to play with a big system, you are going to need the Big 3 done in 1/0, you are going to need at least 1 good battery, and you are going to need a better alternator. you can even do them in that order if you are on a budget. just realize that every thing you do is only going to make your system better. if you decide to skip something there will be consequences. like if you skip the alternator and get a second battery, then you will be fine until the batteries drain. you need to be able to recharge the batteries as fast as they are being drained. go too long without upgrading the alternator and you may end up with 2 dead batteries (fried is the wrong word. they will die from being overdrawn and cycled to death.) you may also want to read around on the12volt and bcae1.com. you will want to understand ohms law at least a little bit, and you will want a good digital multimeter and the knowledge of how to use it. and cheap and this hobby do not go together very well. you dont want the sound to be cheap do you? you get out of it what you put into it. so strive for quality equipment even if it means brown baggin it for a week or two.

Welcome to the site, please take a moment to help describe your goals in depth, provide a budget you want to stay with in, space requirements etc. etc. Keep in mind, size and amount of sub woofers does not always dictate output.

Pic of mounting options. There are holes on all 4 sides only took pic of one side to get a closer pic. You can see the tab left on one side and I took the other side off for reference to the "ghost mount" where you can put a bolt through the board into the amp so there is no visible mounting tabs..