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Found 18 results

  1. I am working to expand our amplifier offerings, while staying high quality, somewhat unique, and affordable. First up looks like a class-A/B 6 channel. No crossover network, individual gains, 150watts x 6, will keep footprint as small as possible for the design, similar appearance to the current models. Feeling out interest as it will effect the total amps I put into production. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ As a side note, I am considering a 2-channel of the same line, but the demand for 2 channels right now are so low. Would not really want to build them if they are going to sit for a while. Just curious on any input before I get production going.
  2. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP v.2

    Getting $1k worth of tires this week too.
  3. Wolfram Audio

    W-Series Amplifiers

    Now available on the SSA store! I do NOT check PMs on here. For any questions, email colin@wolframaudio.com Wolfram Audio W-3000.1: Specifications: RMS Power @ 1 Ohm : 3,000 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 2 Ohms : 2,000 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 4 Ohms : 1,150 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 2 Ohms (Linked) : 6,500 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v) Frequency Response : 10hz~350hz (+/-1db) Working Voltage : 10V-16V Signal-to-Noise Ratio (Sensitivity) : >90dB Efficiency @ 4 Ohms : 86% Low Level Input (Gain) : 8V - 200mV Low Pass Filter : 30Hz - 250Hz Bass Boost : 0 ~ 12 dB Subsonic Filter : 10Hz - 60Hz Phase Shift : 0-180 Degrees 4-Way Protection Circuitry Built-in (Thermal, Voltage, Speaker, DC) LED Power & Protection Indicators Master / Slave (Linkable) : Yes Recommended Fuse Rating : 300 Amps 1/0 Gauge Power and Ground Terminal Inputs Remote Level Control Knob Included Wolfram Audio W-1500.1: Specifications: RMS Power @ 1 Ohm : 1,600 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 2 Ohms : 900 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 4 Ohms : 530 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 2 Ohms (Strapped) : 3,200 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v) Frequency Response : 10Hz - 350Hz (+/- 1db) Working Voltage : 10V-16V Signal-to-Noise Ratio (Sensitivity) : >90dB Efficiency @ 4 Ohms : 86% RCA Line Output : Yes Low Pass Filter : 30Hz - 250Hz Bass Boost @ 45 Hz : 0 ~ 12 dB Subsonic Filter : 10Hz - 60Hz Phase Shift : 0-180 Degrees 4-Way Protection Circuitry Built-in (Thermal, Voltage, Speaker, DC) LED Power & Protection Indicators Master / Slave (Linkable) : Yes Fuse Rating : 150 Amps (Linked: 300A) 1/0 Gauge Power and Ground Terminal Inputs Remote Level Control Knob Included Wolfram Audio W-600.1: Specifications: RMS Power @ 1 Ohm : 700 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 2 Ohms : 380 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 4 Ohms : 200 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 2 Ohms (Strapped) : 1,400 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v) Frequency Response : 10Hz - 350Hz (+/- 1db) Working Voltage : 10V-16V Signal-to-Noise Ratio (Sensitivity) : >90dB Efficiency @ 4 Ohms : 86% RCA Line Output : Yes Low Pass Filter : 30Hz - 250Hz Bass Boost : 0 ~ 12 dB Subsonic Filter @ 24 dB Slope : 10Hz - 60Hz Phase Shift : 0-180 Degrees 4-Way Protection Circuitry Built-in (Thermal, Voltage, Speaker, DC) LED Power & Protection Indicators Master / Slave (Strappable) : Yes Fuse Rating : 30A x2 4 Gauge Power and Ground Terminal Inputs Remote Level Control Knob Included Wolfram Audio W-125.4: Specifications: RMS Power @ 2 Ohms : 175 Watts x 4 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 4 Ohms : 125 Watts x 4 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 4 Ohms (Bridged) : 330 Watts x 2 (14.4v) Frequency Response: 15hz to 35khz Low Level Input Adjustment: 0.2v to 8v Signal to noise Ratio: >90 dB Minimum Impedance: 2 Ohm Low Pass Filter: 50hz to 500hz (500hz to 5khz [x10]) High Pass Filter: 50hz to 500hz (500hz to 5khz [x10]) T.H.D. Continuous @ 4ohm : 0.05% Operating Voltage : 10v ~ 16V Fuse Rating : 40A x2
  4. Aaron Clinton

    Forced adoption of Optical

    Due to the purchase of my first real TV, I am venturing into digital to digital signal. The TV has no RCA outs, so my Dayton 2.1 plate amp couldn't directly mate up with my TV. With some help of Neal and SDY, there was an option for a converter or amp replacement. Due to potential latency issues with the signal conversion and possible effect on the quality of the sound, I opted for a new little amp. So I just ordered the SMSL Q5 PRO as it has optical in, a remote, and RCA out. https://www.parts-express.com/smsl-q5-pro-stereo-amplifier-usb-optical-coaxial-dac-with-subwoofer-output-2x40w--230-210 This gives me the ability to still use the plate amp for just subwoofer purposes. The SMSL will power at 20 watts a tower (which each consists of 4 Aura full range speaks), which is pretty much the same power the Dayton 2.1 plate amp was putting to them. I will report back when it is set up and I have some listening time on it.
  5. One of the biggest and most powerful amplifiers ever made. They didn't make very many of these so they are quite rare. one was recently tested by oldschoolstereo.com and made over 12,000w rms between the two channels at 1.6ohm per channel. Here is the link I recommend watching it as he goes into the history of this huge amplifier. And here is the manufacturers underrated specifications: Output Power at 14.4V and ≤1% THD+N (CEA-2006): 2 x 2600W @ 4 ohms 1 x 8110W @ 4 ohms 1 x 7400W @ 1 ohm S/N Ratio: 65dBA (1 Watt, 4 ohms) Effective Damping Factor: 6.39 @ 4 ohms Freq. Response: 10Hz ∼ 270Hz (-3dB) Fuse: 600A internal (external 500A minimum) Dimensions: 29.38" x 23" x 6.5" (74.6cm x 58.4cm x 16.5cm) Weight: 88 lb. Only selling because I'm moving agian and need the extra space. The top beauty/mounting plates are in automotive primer ready to be painted to match your build. Condition is excellent. Price is $1500 picked up in the Dallas Texas area, or best offer, don't bother low balling Id rather keep it to be honest. It's only going to gain value considering how rare these amplifiers are getting. I would be willing to ship it if you cover the costs for shipping. Call or text me for questions: 907-227-8213
  6. Hello all and thank you in advance for your help. This will be my first build and I'd like to build a new subwoofer for my home audio system. I'm flexible, but would like somewhere around 800-1000W to drive a 12" sub in a ported box, and to do this I plan to spend somewhere around $500 or so. I don't have a great idea of what a realistic budget is, so I'm flexible, just would like to keep costs down. I need some help figuring out where to start. Could someone please point me in the direction of some good resources regarding amplifier selection specifically? Thank you all. Quick edit: I'm using an optical connection from my computer to a Yamaha RX-V677 receiver. If anyone has any resources regarding the best connection between the receiver and amplifier, that would also be great.
  7. Kylar96

    Lets see your AMPERE goods.

    Been running ampere audio amps, for some time. Used the DSP also. Still have the comp sets in the doors in my car. Fine gear. Lets see yours Old build in the blazer. 4 3800.s at .5 , 2 125.4's on the doors. Ampere 9k in my trunk build. Things huge. Current rig/set up. 6-3800's at .5, 2- 75.4's on the doors.
  8. I really want one and am willing to pay anything reasonable, just give me a price!
  9. GarrettHarvey

    Amp and box measures for 2 HDS2 12

    Getting two hds212s and wanna know what amp to get(sq brand) , and if i should get dual 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm. And if youve done this build, what are the box measures
  10. Hello jw if box rise is influenced whatsoever by the number of amplifiers used in a system set up or if it is essentially the same regardless of how many amplifiers are used to power a set of drivers
  11. Sencheezy

    My Taramp HD8000 Review

    Ok guys, here is MY personal Review of the Taramp HD8000 I personally own Three of them. I purchased two use from DangRebel here, and the third directly from Shizzzon. One of used ones from DangRebel went into protect immediately upon hooking up. And the BNIB from Shizzzon also went into protect while demoing Sunday afternoon while at Slamology. Here is a few pictures of my installation for Reference. On the chargers. So to explain my experience in total. My system consist of One DC Power 240XP, 100ft of 3/0, Ten Batteries. I also should mention I run each amp at 1.5 ohm, the amps are the Two ohm version. Now, the drive down to Indiapolois is about 5 hours long. For the better half of the trip, I would turn the gain up half way, couldn't take much more than that, (pressure wise). So the most my voltage would drop would be .1-.3 Volts. During some testing at the shop, we clamped 3200 watts starting at 2.7 rising to 8.1 pulling a little over 300 amps of current. The first time demoing there that Friday night, I was able to burn up 2 300 amp fuses while playing full tilt after 2 or 3 songs. Replaced the fuses, back up and running. Saturday, I beat ALL DAY. Was still having engine issues. So for 87% of my demos were at battery voltage. Since the engine was off, that also means no rear A/C to cool them, still no issues. Yes, they did get warm. On sunday, got warm enough to not hold your hand longer than 30 seconds. But again, it wasn't THAT hot lol. To describe how the amps are mounted. The rear wall is 3" thick of High Quality MDF. Which an another layer of 3/4" wood mounting plate is attached. Then the steel rack. Then the amps are mounted onto an 3/4" MDF mounting baffle, that is mounted onto the steel amp rack. Shizzzon informed me that there was still too much vibration, and wired too low, which is why the bottom amp failed. I was able to verify that the amps were indeed moving, but from what I could see, it was only becuase the truck itself was moving. Not much else I can do about that. So in sum, these amps, in my opinion, are the better choice for us in every aspect, EXCEPT durability. If you think of where these amps come from and their origin, it makes sense for what I see is their biggest flaw. These amps are MUCH more sensitive than Koreans. The output section especially. We had I believe 3 other Team IAK members whom amps failed as well. One was becuase the wrong gauge was used for the speaker cable. One was for no reason, there's mine, and one other. So, for advice for other users. It is ok to run these amps, they do power, cheap, small, and stupid efficient. To run these long term usage, have these key items. 2-3 Group 31s PER HD8000. Use the appropriate size for the output section. 8 gauge min. Ensure there is NO to VERY min. vibration. And wire to the proper ohm load. I wouldn't even risk burping lower than rated. Do not count on box rise. Please note, that the ENTIRE weekend I beat the living piss out of my system lol. Most people, demo for 20-30 seconds at most per demo. I would play full songs full tilt, had no issues. I played my system for at least 4-10 hours in total over the weekend. The amps gave me no issues until Sunday afternoon. Which was a much hotter day, maybe 5-10 degrees more. There was no smoke, just protect light. Yes there was troublshooting performed. Turn system off, let cool down, unplug everything, let cool down, remove RCA/Speaker cables, etc. Moving forward, I will Continue to run these amps. At four ohms each for now, then at World finals run at 2 ohms.
  12. I got a Power Acoustik 4000 watt MONO amp for sale. I got this from a friend and have no use for it. Im selling it for $110 shipped. Lemme know if you want it!!! PM ME! RMS Power Rating: 4 Ohms: 1200 Watts x 1 Channel 2 Ohms: 1700 Watts x 1 Channel 1 Ohms: 2200 Watts x 1 Channel [*]Max power output: 4000 watts x 1 channel [*]Input Sensitivity: 200mV-6V [*]THD %: 0.20% [*]Full regulated PWM MOSFET power supply [*]Three way protection circuitry [*]Front Panel Connections & Controls [*]Direct Input 4 ga. Power & 8 ga. Speaker Terminals [*]Top Panel Status Indicators [*]Jet Black Texture Coat Finish [*]Adjustable Tuned Bass EQ (0-18 dB Bass Boost) [*]Hi-Speed digital circuitry [*]Full selectable crossover (HI,Full,Low) [*]1-Ohm Stable Class D Monoblock [*]Die-cast aluminum heat sink designed for massive heat dissipation from three sides of the amplifier [*]Heavy duty aluminum alloy heatsink or High-density split-dome convection heat sink for extreme heat dissipation [*]Platinum-plated RCA level inputs [*]Platinum-plated screw terminals [*]Variable low-pass crossover filter: 40-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave [*]Variable subsonic crossover filter: 20-50 Hz [*]Variable subwoofer bass boost EQ @ 45 Hz [*]Phase Control: 180 degree [*]Remote Gain Control Included [*]Frequency response: 20-200 Hz [*]Signal to Noise Ratio: 100 dB [*]Fusing: (3) 40 [*]Dimensions: 13.77" x 8.26" x 2.16"
  13. Alright, I'm sort of confused, and have spent hours/Days/weeks trying to figure this all out, but I'm sort of just in between ideas at the moment. I was told you guys were the best, and so I've come here! If you have any ideas, any help would greatly be appreciated. and I've tried to help out as much as I can in terms of information.. So essentially I'm at the stage where I already have; HU - AVIC-F910BT (http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/archive/AVIC-F910BT/page.html) Which for quick reference has Front, Rear and Sub pre-outs. 6x9's - JL C2-690TX (http://www.elite-electronics.com.au/In-Car_Entertainment/Speakers/Rear_Speakers/JL_Audio_C2-690TX_6x9_Speakers#.UgkNupIy1x9) and a 2 channel to run them for the mean time..Rated @70W RMS x 2... Conveniently. For now I'm planning to rewire the current speakers to a four channel amp (I was thinking http://www.elite-electronics.com.au/In-Car_Entertainment/Amplifiers/Multi-Channel/Boss_Audio_PH4.500_4-Channel_2000W_Amplifier#incar-speaker ?) Then setting the gains down to suit (it is a rather powerful Amplifier for the speakers). After that it's wiring up the amp I already have with the 6x9's, and hooking it all back up to the HU. With the aim to upgrade to Alpine Type R's (possibly four components) in the near future! And the sub (after that... As for my questions! RCA's - How do I get it done?! I was thinking a 1M-2F connector, hooking that up to the 4 CH via Front-out? Using rear-out for 6x9 amp and keeping the other spot free for the sub/amp? The reason for the rear doors is because I don't want the system to be too low-end heavy in the back (with a sub and 2x 6x9's). Good call? Essentially the amp would be running at 50% of it's capacity.. Is that too low? When the new one's are in I'll be setting gains on the point before they clip (I've been told they're severely underrated @ 110W RMS.. it would get the amp to near 70% of 'RMS' power) Would it be better to run two four channels, bridging one output for the sub, or three amps (Keeping in mind i have the 2 channel already.. or 2x 4CH listed above is powerful enough)? Are capacitors advised/essential / how do they work (Any "4-dummy's" explanation would be fantastic!) Speaker wiring.... I've been told 10/12AWG for subs, and 16AWG would be best-suit for the other speakers. Accurate? Using Seperate ground wiring for each amp.. is that how it should be done? Am I missing any crucial parts? (Bar obviously wiring, and power cable splitter) Anything else? (Advice? ) Thanks in advance for any and all help! Michael
  14. What’s up ladies and gentlemen of the car audio world? Today I bring to you the all inclusive Fiberglass Amp Rack 101 Lesson! Allow me to insert my shameless plug and say that if you enjoy any part of this tutorial, or learned something new, please post a comment, rank this thread, and share with your friends! Also I love when I get new subscribers on my YouTube channel! (www.youtube.com/caraudiofabrication ) Other than that let’s review what you will learn shall we? http://youtu.be/YUEUAhttGts Intro: First off I know I know, this looks like a ton of reading, and a ton of work, but it really is not, it just seems that way because I am outlining every thing I have learned over the years of many car audio installations. When I started learning this I would have done ANYTHING for a write up with the tricks and techniques I am going to show you, but it didn’t exist, so again while it might seem like a lot to read it WILL be WELL worth your time to read through this and watch the videos. Note that some of the videos or somewhat of an “update” to my progress within the step, where as others are much more of an actual step by step instruction. The videos have a run time of a little over an hour, so grab a frosty beverage and some food and sit back! That being said there are a million different ways you could construct an amp rack, this tutorial will cover what I have learned and found to be very effective means of building a professional quality amp rack. Note that for the sake of length some sections of this lesson may refer to previous lesson posts I have made, in these cases I will provide a link for you to visit so that you may learn that technique as well! Also note that the quality of my videos improves throughout the series. Please watch all the videos to gain the full experience! In order to watch all of the YouTube videos is one go, please view the YouTube playlist here: Note that each step within this write up also has the video thumbnail, with a link to the video below it. The Process: Before we begin allow me to briefly outline the process that will be covered. By understanding each step involved you are well on your way to an amazing fiberglass amp rack! Designing the Layout Skeleton– The Foundation of your shape and Making TemplatesPrepping Templates and Skeleton for Molding Applying Fabric – The Skin of your shape Glassing and Strength Smoothing and Prep for Finish Adding Plexi and Inserts Wrapping the Amp Rack – Vinyl, Suede, and Carpet Final Thoughts Let’s begin!
  15. The first time i bought trunk audio a bought a 1000W kenwood amp and 2 12" 400W kenwood speakers. and when i connected them in series + to - it was ok bass but when i turned it up past 20 volume the music got louder but the bass got quieter. and when i connected them in parallel it was awesome very loud sound and bass but the amp heated up a lot please recommend me a amp and speakers i should get that will be loud and make by trunk bounce lol
  16. I got a Power Acoustik 4000 watt MONO amp for sale. I got this from a friend and have no use for it. Im selling it for $110 shipped. Lemme know if you want it!!! PM ME! 4000W Max Monoblock Class D Amplifier Car Amplifier RMS Power Rating: 4 ohms: 1200 watts x 1 chan. 2 ohms: 1700 watts x 1 chan. 1 ohm: 2200 watts x 1 chan. [*]Max power output: 4000 watts x 1 chan. [*]Fully regulated PWM power supply [*]Wired remote bass level control included [*]System distress indicator [*]Four way protection circuit [*]Adjustable Tuned Bass EQ (0-18 dB Bass Boost) [*]Hi-Speed digital circuitry [*]Full selectable crossover (HI,Full,Low [*]1-Ohm Stable [*]Full selectable crossover (HI,Full,Low) [*]Die-cast aluminum heat sink designed for massive heat dissipation from three sides of the amplifier [*]Heavy duty aluminum alloy heatsink or High-density split-dome convection heat sink for extreme heat dissipation [*]Platinum-plated RCA level inputs [*]Platinum-plated screw terminals [*]Variable low-pass filter (40-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave) [*]Variable subsonic filter (20-50 Hz) [*]Variable subwoofer EQ @ 45 Hz [*]Frequency response: 20-200 Hz [*]Signal to Noise Ratio: 100 dB [*]Dimensions: 13-3/4"L x 8-1/4"W x 2-1/8"H
  17. Hey i was wondering about this amp on ebay http://viewitem.eim.ebay.no/BOSS-AUDIO-PH2600-CAR-AMP-AMPLIFIER-STEREOMONO-1200W/330605297743/item but do i get a aoutput of 1200 watts. i am going to youse it on a duble coil sub 1200w 4 ohms.
  18. dimethoxy

    new amp; suggestions??

    i need an amp that's $200 or less to push a single sundown sa-12, 4ohm dvc i have a hifonics hifi1000.1d but it's total shit the box is 1.5ft^3 tuned to 30hz i want enough bass but not too much i am looking at rockford r500-1 kicker zx750.1d mtx td1000.1d it's going in a 2000 honda insight any suggestions?? i want some quality but i'm also trying to save as much money as possible
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