Deal on CDT

[dem beats 1,223]

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=5091

I saw this on ROE and couldn't beleive the price! Are these like last years version of the 61i that is currently on the CDT "gold" web site. I remember old CDT eurosport, and only heard them once, I was pretty impressed but it was a 3 way. I just don't have that kind of cash ATM, and won't for a while with all the rest on my build up.

Bump if anyone has experience with these?

I might jump on this and let the H/U issue wait.. if these are a value anyone want to borrow me another 300 bucks so I can get 2 sets I would hate to miss out on sucha pwn sauce deal if these are in fact good?? lol

I'm looking for something with more punch in the mid bass and not so much in the highs, My ears fatigue really really fast from high hz. I know an EQ can fix anything but why not get it right from the get go.

Thanks all!

[JimJ 11]

I can think of much better options for $300.

[dem beats 1,223]

I can think of much better options for $300.

Awesome man, please share!

I haven't heard anything in a loooong time, and the best local shop I can find is ultimate electronics, and their "car rooms" don't quite cut the mustard man. The best they have is diamond.

I only know the name CDT from the one time I heard them about.. oh 5 years ago in a 3 way set.

Thanks for the reply hustler!

[JimJ 11]

Anything DIY, for one...

Once you free yourself from passive Xovers, a whole new world opens up...and there's a lot more value.

Check out http://www.zaphaudio.com and start reading his writeups Just a little taste of what's out there.

[dem beats 1,223]

Anything DIY, for one...

Once you free yourself from passive Xovers, a whole new world opens up...and there's a lot more value.

Check out http://www.zaphaudio.com and start reading his writeups Just a little taste of what's out there.

LOL

somehow I know I was going to get the DIY thing... Now.. these are all set up for enclosures are they not, will they work in an open air application?

To be honest I get a bit nervous about the whole DIY thing.. I wouldn't knwo how to ballance and match up mids and highs. I'm a big fan of part express and have comtimplated making speakers for home use.. but in a car.. I must admit I'm a big chicken lol.

I will read up though. I'm even more spendthrift than I am chicken. By going not passive I am thinking you mean active xovers.. I have NEVER even seen one in action. How do they work and Aren't they quite expencive!?!!??

[JimJ 11]

Now.. these are all set up for enclosures are they not, will they work in an open air application?

The vast majority will do well IB. There are a couple that are enclosure-picky, but the specs will usually tell you when that is.

How do they work and Aren't they quite expencive!?!!??

They work by simply doing the crossover-ing at line level (in the RCA's) vs. at speaker-level (after the amplifier). So you need the active crossover itself (either a box that goes between the head unit output and the amplifier, or built into the head unit itself) and enough amp channels to individually power all the drivers you're planning on using. So for a 2-way setup with midbasses and tweets, you'd need four channels of amplification. For a 3-way setup with midbasses, midranges and tweets, you'd need six channels.

Active crossovers aren't that expensive, especially with good head units having them built in anyway.

[dem beats 1,223]

Now.. these are all set up for enclosures are they not, will they work in an open air application?

The vast majority will do well IB. There are a couple that are enclosure-picky, but the specs will usually tell you when that is.

How do they work and Aren't they quite expencive!?!!??

They work by simply doing the crossover-ing at line level (in the RCA's) vs. at speaker-level (after the amplifier). So you need the active crossover itself (either a box that goes between the head unit output and the amplifier, or built into the head unit itself) and enough amp channels to individually power all the drivers you're planning on using. So for a 2-way setup with midbasses and tweets, you'd need four channels of amplification. For a 3-way setup with midbasses, midranges and tweets, you'd need six channels.

Active crossovers aren't that expensive, especially with good head units having them built in anyway.

What should I pay attention to for IB vs enclosed?

So I have a 4 channell... hrmm.. I thought my 4 channell only had room for 1 set of RCa's.. I'll have to go check when I get off work.

You are like a fountain of audio intellegence. Thanks for helping me out sir.

[JimJ 11]

What should I pay attention to for IB vs enclosed?

A higher Qts driver is going to be able to make bass with very large or IB enclosures, a driver with a very small Qts (below .3 or so) is going to require a ported or something more extensive enclosure.

Thanks for helping me out sir.

No problem

[dem beats 1,223]

What should I pay attention to for IB vs enclosed?

A higher Qts driver is going to be able to make bass with very large or IB enclosures, a driver with a very small Qts (below .3 or so) is going to require a ported or something more extensive enclosure.

Thanks for helping me out sir.

No problem

OK... So I have been looking around.

Lets say I wanted to keep the cost under 300 for mids tweets active crossover.

So thats 2 tweets

2midbass

and 2 crossovers(or with active do I only need one??)

is it even possible to do that? What about if I extended the cash to 400 and would it even matter?

1 more thing also... again thanksfor all the help wiht my anotying q's.... I am understand as I read I need a seperate unit to tune the active crossover.. it doesn't have fancy knobs or digital menues!!?? sheesh

=)

When I google active crossover.. man it's verry less than helpfull, unless I want to do it in my living room with DIY home audio... hrm maybe for the bedroom set I will try that.

Thanks all!

and by all I mean mostly Jim

there's a beer for your time!

Edited October 15, 2007 by dem beats

[dem beats 1,223]

ON another note, I think this should be moved to the speaker area... I think I clicky on the wrong forum when I created this new thread.

If you think it should be moved Mods hook it up.

TY

[ford302redneck 15]

What should I pay attention to for IB vs enclosed?

A higher Qts driver is going to be able to make bass with very large or IB enclosures, a driver with a very small Qts (below .3 or so) is going to require a ported or something more extensive enclosure.

Thanks for helping me out sir.

No problem

OK... So I have been looking around.

Lets say I wanted to keep the cost under 300 for mids tweets active crossover.

So thats 2 tweets2midbass

and 2 crossovers(or with active do I only need one??)

is it even possible to do that? What about if I extended the cash to 400 and would it even matter?

1 more thing also... again thanksfor all the help wiht my anotying q's.... I am understand as I read I need a seperate unit to tune the active crossover.. it doesn't have fancy knobs or digital menues!!?? sheesh

=)

When I google active crossover.. man it's verry less than helpfull, unless I want to do it in my living room with DIY home audio... hrm maybe for the bedroom set I will try that.

Thanks all!

and by all I mean mostly Jim

there's a beer for your time!

You need

2 Tweets

2 midbass

1 crossover, Look into audiocontrol's.

You should be able to keep it under your goal.

Crossovers can be had for $50-100bucks.

Tweets are around $40 a pair.

Midbass $100 a pair.

Amp, well that can be around 350ish for a decent 100x4 4channel.

Then around 100 for deadening.

You got yourself one helva SQ setup if tune correctly.

[dem beats 1,223]

You need

2 Tweets

2 midbass

1 crossover, Look into audiocontrol's.

You should be able to keep it under your goal.

Crossovers can be had for $50-100bucks.

Tweets are around $40 a pair.

Midbass $100 a pair.

Amp, well that can be around 350ish for a decent 100x4 4channel.

Then around 100 for deadening.

You got yourself one helva SQ setup if tune correctly.

I do have the amp. I was just talking about the woofers the tweets and an active crossover. Where can you find them for that cheep

[///M5 2,833]

What do you have for a headunit? Woudl you be willing to sell it and get another? IMO the best way to control your crossovers is from the dash.

You need midranges, not midbasses and I would flip the recommended budgets above. The tweeters play way more of the audible frequency range and therefore the budget should be rotated to them.

As for what drivers, can you fit a 4" tweeter (large format)? If so or not, it will determine the options. Any preference to cone material or generic listening preferences you could share? It will help narrow it down.

Lastly, mounting locations will really determine the flexibility of what you use. If your drivers are going to be way off axis you should focus on getting ones that have a nice response that way.

[ford302redneck 15]

What do you have for a headunit? Woudl you be willing to sell it and get another? IMO the best way to control your crossovers is from the dash.

You need midranges, not midbasses and I would flip the recommended budgets above. The tweeters play way more of the audible frequency range and therefore the budget should be rotated to them.

As for what drivers, can you fit a 4" tweeter (large format)? If so or not, it will determine the options. Any preference to cone material or generic listening preferences you could share? It will help narrow it down.

Lastly, mounting locations will really determine the flexibility of what you use. If your drivers are going to be way off axis you should focus on getting ones that have a nice response that way.

I was just throwing some numbers for him.

[dem beats 1,223]

What do you have for a headunit? Woudl you be willing to sell it and get another? IMO the best way to control your crossovers is from the dash.

You need midranges, not midbasses and I would flip the recommended budgets above. The tweeters play way more of the audible frequency range and therefore the budget should be rotated to them.

As for what drivers, can you fit a 4" tweeter (large format)? If so or not, it will determine the options. Any preference to cone material or generic listening preferences you could share? It will help narrow it down.

Lastly, mounting locations will really determine the flexibility of what you use. If your drivers are going to be way off axis you should focus on getting ones that have a nice response that way.

You were helping my look at decks in the other thread I had earlier as a matter of fact!

=)

I have made no decisions... but may based on this.

Mounting.. well... I have an expedition.. I will fabricate anything I need. I can put any size woofer in the door with some glass and MDF working or in the center console even. I beleive it's just a large empty space with a few wires. It would lend inself well, but may creat an odd listening experience with it facing the door lol.

If I had a huge 4 inch it would only fit in the dash.. and who knows whats in there and what I would have to cut/work around. I supose I could make something it rests on.. but I would like to keep things verry clean looking and I'm not sure I could with a 4 inch.. But i'm willing to try anything!

For listenng habits.. I can't stand bright sounds or harsh highs. I mike mids and midbass. I listen to everythign from Kodo to slipknot to deep trance and rap and classic rock opera and jazz. anything but the top 40 pop type music. I really die if the music is too bright. I dont' want it to be muffled but I fatigue fast from shrill sounds my ears are sensative still.

Edit I am quite willing to fabricate anything I have glass man in my pocket too and he will be teaching me and helping me.

Edited October 16, 2007 by dem beats

[dem beats 1,223]

You asked for cone material and some other specifics.. I will try to help with that too

What HU's can controll cross overs BTW?

For materials.. I have aluminium on my HT, Energy RC's and I like those quite a bit. I guess you could call them "warm" I hate audiophile terms. To me i think they may be a bit heavy in the mids, which to me is better than heavy in the highs. I have heard silk does this better but.. what ever works, and mine are aluminium and sound great with the woofers.

I would also like the mids to dig pretty deep so I can tune the bass as low as possible and have lots of punch.. or force or what ever you would like to call it. If I had to pick how I like my music "colored" I would prefere warm. I hate audiophile terms.. how about this... I hate shrill noises in my ears!

=)

Again so much help here I didn't expect to learn so much. I have been looking at Madi sound quite a bit recently.. it looks like they sell their speakers not by the pair but individualy.. Holly cow. Some of those bad boys are 300 a peace for mids!!!

:faints:

[dem beats 1,223]

OK shameless bump.

I've been looking at drivers and I have a bit more of an Idea of what I'm looking for now other than look scool

=)

I am still Uber lost when it comes to active cross overs though. Who sells them and what HU do I need to pair with it?

The cost of everything seams to keep going up but I keep getting more and more interested too. It's like everything in life audio, you have never and will never spend enough or hear everything.

So for extremely forcefull Mids what would you suggest and a tweet to pair it with. I want real drive from the mids, I fatigure really fast from high HZ so I'm a bit shy on what to get there, can an active crossover tame that beast?

thanks all!

[Derek 0]

I can think of much better options for $300.

i can too........like.....my butt

Edited October 19, 2007 by Derek

[dem beats 1,223]

I can think of much better options for $300.

i can too........like.....my butt

Man that's helpfull. Can I audition your Butt? I'm in the midwest and I would really love to know just how great of SQ you can get out of that thing!

Would it be considered a form of a compression woofer?