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I use a Lenco type hammer/anvil type tool on 4/0 and I did a tug test and couldn't loosen the crimp at all. The tug test consisted of placing the flat end of the ring terminal in a 6" vice after I crimped the thing, then yanking and jerking the wire in different directions and pulling extremely hard. Didn't loosen it. Soldering it afterwards gives even better peace of mind.

If your crimps are giving out in a normal car audio application, you are doing something wrong.

Edited by Duke

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I try not to read posts about solder melting on 1/0 wire from people that don't even know how to hook two batteries up in a vehicle.

Again, I just stated some solders don't hold up thermally, and I came on here to double check about the battery. I'm sure you never once asked anyone that before you did it the first time. I have put circuit boards together before, but I know nothing about solder. I have seen solder melt off of circuit boards from to much "continious" amp/current draw, so please don't think you are "educating" me about solder. I have see batteries melt of batterie post when they vent. (Not the post that comes with the batterie) thought I would clarify it but I'm sure you knew what I meant from that. You and the fanboy = Joke.

Believe me I don't know or claim to know nearly as much about car audio as you, never said I did. That is why I ask to double check about things on here. From now on I will look somewhere else for Car audio advice, I'm glad you "hook up battery terminals at work" sounds fullfilling. Maybe oneday I can aspire to do something that rewarding for a living. :shrug:

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If you're melting typical 60/40 rosin core, something is fundamentally wrong with the circuit (to put it mildly). The only reason I could see not to "trust" solder would be structurally, strain reliefs may help on wires that have a potential of stressing the joint, but the thermal limits are something I wouldn't think about. Welding cable, IIRC, is rated to 90 or 100C...well under a typical working temperature for a soldered joint.

I'm glad you "hook up battery terminals at work" sounds fullfilling. Maybe oneday I can aspire to do something that rewarding for a living.

Ever hear the expression "A closed mouth gathers no feet?" :)

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I solder all of my power and ground wires...if you know how to use a torch correctly than there's no problem with the insulation melting...it'll get a little hot and soft but nothing that a cold water bath can take care of.

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If you're melting typical 60/40 rosin core, something is fundamentally wrong with the circuit (to put it mildly).

I'm with Jim on this one.

If the solder on your terminals melts...something is wrong. Even if the battery posts melt, the terminals of the audio power wire would be my last concern...

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I'm glad you "hook up battery terminals at work" sounds fullfilling. Maybe oneday I can aspire to do something that rewarding for a living.

Ever hear the expression "A closed mouth gathers no feet?" :)

No shit.

Congratulations, you've soldered circuit boards.... I design them.

Only time I do battery terminals is in my audio installs, and 200kW+ SUPU power systems, what do I know? This week's work involves installing a DME navigational aid (yep, I am in the avionics industry). I do electronic design, implementation & maintenance for a living dipshit.

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Just find an electrical wholesaler in your town and ask if they have a crimping tool you can borrow, flick some cash to use for xx lugs.

For my 2/0 lugs, I just went down to my local autoparts store as they have a large crimper down the back and they let me use it for free, otherwise I can go down to the electrical wholesaler and use their hyraulic crimper for like $5

Electrical wholesalers are your friends people.. learn to love them lol. Cheaper electrical equipment instead of buying stuff from parts shops or brand name stuff. High current applications require industrial solutions :D

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