New System Ideas. Have To Downgrade :(

[Doctor Q 12]

Well today sucked! This is some major league BULLCHIT! So my car started dying again. 3 times from coming home to get my mom to follow me to the shop and so within about 15mi of driving it died 3 times. Apparently the system is too much for my car and i can't get a high output alternator because my belt wont be able to handle it...

so today the guy at the shop told my mom it'd be best to get rid of my system. now i really don't want to but i guess i should if i dont want my car to die on me constantly :/ . Im going to see if he thinks it can handle a 500-800 watt system because if it can't im gunna be uber pissed. What are some options for subs? I want either 2 12's or 1 15 or maybe even 2 15s. Has to be around 800 watts or less as of now, i may have more info on that later. Maybe like a 15" Fi SSD with an amp around 700-800 watts. As of now i am lost. Last time around i was looking for more SQ but since i gotta work with less power i guess more of a SPL sub but i don't want it sounding bad. But 90% of my music listening is spent with rap/hip-hop kind of stuff.

This is what i've thought so far, which would you pick for mainly SP:

- Alpine Type R 15" = 500rms

- Fi SSD 15" = 800rms

- (2) Dcon 12" = 600rms

- (2) Alpine Type E 12" = 500rms

or any other suggestions. I think the most probable is the Type R or the 2 Dcons.

If possible, I would like to put the new sub in my old box (4 cu.ft. @ 32hz) but thats not absolutely a necessity, and obviously id need a different box if i got 2 12s or 2 15s instead of 1 15"... This is such a bummer. I love my "Q".

Thanks,

alex

[jcarter1885 995]

first of all whats wrong with the car, I have plenty of mechanics and even dealerships blame the reason my car was acting up was becasue of the system(when they fixed it, it was a different story; usually thats the first thing they blame it on since its an add on and its easy to say it is the system than anything else). It can be the system(dont get me wrong); now if it is the system then 9 times out of 10 going with a less powered system will still give you problems, maybe you need to upgrade your electrical (if you cant get an high output alternator then get some group 31 batteries or upgrade your starting battery and a 31 battery) get a voltmeter so you can tell if your straining your vehicles electrical system so you can turn it down. I think there are a lot of ways to keep your system because only 1200rms give or take wont hurt your car that bad unless you dont have the proper power to back up the amp and cars electrical draw.

just my .02

[ncacoates 104]

Well today sucked! This is some major league BULLCHIT! So my car started dying again. 3 times from coming home to get my mom to follow me to the shop and so within about 15mi of driving it died 3 times. Apparently the system is too much for my car and i can't get a high output alternator because my belt wont be able to handle it...

so today the guy at the shop told my mom it'd be best to get rid of my system. now i really don't want to but i guess i should if i dont want my car to die on me constantly :/ . Im going to see if he thinks it can handle a 500-800 watt system because if it can't im gunna be uber pissed. What are some options for subs? I want either 2 12's or 1 15 or maybe even 2 15s. Has to be around 800 watts or less as of now, i may have more info on that later. Maybe like a 15" Fi SSD with an amp around 700-800 watts. As of now i am lost. Last time around i was looking for more SQ but since i gotta work with less power i guess more of a SPL sub but i don't want it sounding bad. But 90% of my music listening is spent with rap/hip-hop kind of stuff.

This is what i've thought so far, which would you pick for mainly SP:

- Alpine Type R 15" = 500rms

- Fi SSD 15" = 800rms

- (2) Dcon 12" = 600rms

- (2) Alpine Type E 12" = 500rms

or any other suggestions. I think the most probable is the Type R or the 2 Dcons.

If possible, I would like to put the new sub in my old box (4 cu.ft. @ 32hz) but thats not absolutely a necessity, and obviously id need a different box if i got 2 12s or 2 15s instead of 1 15"... This is such a bummer. I love my "Q".

Thanks,

alex

Your mechanic may be an idiot. What are his reasons for the belt not being able to handle it? Other than that recheck all your grounds and power wires. Also be sure to have your alternator and battery tested that will most likely show you the problem. Iv had a 1200d when there wasn't sufficient power it cut off and didn't harm my car at all, I will say you'll need to pick up a small battery they are pretty hungry little buggers.

[///M5 2,833]

What car do you have and what is your current system?

[slim2fattycake 85]

I am not possitive on your car but I think you can get a new belt when getting a new high output alternator. mechman actually says you have to for his 200 amp alt and above. I think you need to go to another mechanic. lol.

Edited July 15, 2009 by phi

[shizzzon 461]

take your car to a performance shop or to an alternator specialist...

A normal mechanic usually won't know much as they don't specialize in anything particular.

When getting a new alternator, i dont care if it's just a replacement, always replace the belt.

In terms of a high output, lots of times u gotta switch over to serpentine.

this is where a shop will assist in getting the right size belt to work for the alt and so on.

Mechman makes alts for lots of imports if u are having a hard time finding one for your car.

I will say though, for a 1200w amp to shut down your car... there is something wrong with your electrical system or configuration.

To cause that much torque\horsepower loss that it kills the car is wrong...

I'm not a mechanic but u may need to see if it's electrical or mechanical the problem u r having.

[Doctor Q 12]

first of all whats wrong with the car, I have plenty of mechanics and even dealerships blame the reason my car was acting up was becasue of the system(when they fixed it, it was a different story; usually thats the first thing they blame it on since its an add on and its easy to say it is the system than anything else). It can be the system(dont get me wrong); now if it is the system then 9 times out of 10 going with a less powered system will still give you problems, maybe you need to upgrade your electrical (if you cant get an high output alternator then get some group 31 batteries or upgrade your starting battery and a 31 battery) get a voltmeter so you can tell if your straining your vehicles electrical system so you can turn it down. I think there are a lot of ways to keep your system because only 1200rms give or take wont hurt your car that bad unless you dont have the proper power to back up the amp and cars electrical draw.

just my .02

thanks. ill look into that. well i brought it in last time and i had to get a new radiator and new brakes, some stuff non-related, but they said my alternator was failing so they "rebuilt" it and im guessing it went again so im guessing im gunna need a new alternator when i go back. That'll be a bitch. And last week i just bought a new starting battery.

[Doctor Q 12]

What car do you have and what is your current system?

the systems all in my sig... 1999 Volvo S70 running a Sundown 1200D and a Fi Q with BP Power (15")

[ncacoates 104]

first of all whats wrong with the car, I have plenty of mechanics and even dealerships blame the reason my car was acting up was becasue of the system(when they fixed it, it was a different story; usually thats the first thing they blame it on since its an add on and its easy to say it is the system than anything else). It can be the system(dont get me wrong); now if it is the system then 9 times out of 10 going with a less powered system will still give you problems, maybe you need to upgrade your electrical (if you cant get an high output alternator then get some group 31 batteries or upgrade your starting battery and a 31 battery) get a voltmeter so you can tell if your straining your vehicles electrical system so you can turn it down. I think there are a lot of ways to keep your system because only 1200rms give or take wont hurt your car that bad unless you dont have the proper power to back up the amp and cars electrical draw.

just my .02

thanks. ill look into that. well i brought it in last time and i had to get a new radiator and new brakes, some stuff non-related, but they said my alternator was failing so they "rebuilt" it and im guessing it went again so im guessing im gunna need a new alternator when i go back. That'll be a bitch. And last week i just bought a new starting battery.

Ill go with it being an alternator. Personally to me i don't trust rebuilt alternators at all.

[Doctor Q 12]

first of all whats wrong with the car, I have plenty of mechanics and even dealerships blame the reason my car was acting up was becasue of the system(when they fixed it, it was a different story; usually thats the first thing they blame it on since its an add on and its easy to say it is the system than anything else). It can be the system(dont get me wrong); now if it is the system then 9 times out of 10 going with a less powered system will still give you problems, maybe you need to upgrade your electrical (if you cant get an high output alternator then get some group 31 batteries or upgrade your starting battery and a 31 battery) get a voltmeter so you can tell if your straining your vehicles electrical system so you can turn it down. I think there are a lot of ways to keep your system because only 1200rms give or take wont hurt your car that bad unless you dont have the proper power to back up the amp and cars electrical draw.

just my .02

thanks. ill look into that. well i brought it in last time and i had to get a new radiator and new brakes, some stuff non-related, but they said my alternator was failing so they "rebuilt" it and im guessing it went again so im guessing im gunna need a new alternator when i go back. That'll be a bitch. And last week i just bought a new starting battery.

Ill go with it being an alternator. Personally to me i don't trust rebuilt alternators at all.

so youre saying you think if i get a new alternator id be fine. maybe put a secondary battery to be safe.

[///M5 2,833]

*a great portion of the contributing members here do not have sigs on

That car should have ZERO problem with that amp if the alternator is fine. Your idiot mechanic did a shoddy job fixing it and can't diagnose his ass. I'd pick a new mechanic.

[jcarter1885 995]

*a great portion of the contributing members here do not have sigs on

That car should have ZERO problem with that amp if the alternator is fine. Your idiot mechanic did a shoddy job fixing it and can't diagnose his ass. I'd pick a new mechanic.

x2 on the mechanic

[Doctor Q 12]

*a great portion of the contributing members here do not have sigs on

That car should have ZERO problem with that amp if the alternator is fine. Your idiot mechanic did a shoddy job fixing it and can't diagnose his ass. I'd pick a new mechanic.

x2 on the mechanic

thanks M5.. i was speaking to my parents and suggested bringin it to a different guy who maybe specialized in alternators or atleast knows his stuff and she agreed because this isn't exactly what the guy that has my car now is good at.

also i was thinking. if my car can handle this with a new alternator... how do you think 2 12" Lethal Injections would compare to my 15" Fi Q now? Im not as much into SQ but i still want it to sound good and now muddy. But would they be louder? Im just thinking of different things now.