amp for 2 15 rl-p's

[swc204 0]

Would a viper 1200.1 wired to 1 ohm be better than a pg tantrum 1200.1 wired to 4 ohms? Which one rates there power at a lower volt?

I would probaly get the pg used and the viper new.

[Supa_c 1]

PG rates at 14.4

Not shure about Viper.

How will you get a 1/4ohm load with DVC 2ohm subs ?

[swc204 0]

im getting 2 rl-ps which are dual 4 ohm and then wire them in a series to get a 4 ohm load, i thaught the pg put the same watts at 2-4 ohms

[Supa_c 1]

Older ones...i see

I dont think that PG has a regulated power supply

[swc204 0]

so it doesnt do the same power at 2-4 ohms? im talking about the one iceteebone is trying to sell

[flakko 1]

wats your budget?

[Supa_c 1]

so it doesnt do the same power at 2-4 ohms? im talking about the one iceteebone is trying to sell

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I dont think so.

[mrray13 30]

newer rl-p's are all d4..it's the older ones u could get in d2..

either amp is a good choice, however if the pg does have the regulated power supply, get it..ur electrical system will love u for it!!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[MrSwiss 0]

so i have my single rl-p bridged @ 2 ohms. are u saying i should wire it at 4 ohms, and maybe i dont need a new alt???

[mrray13 30]

so i have my single rl-p bridged @ 2 ohms. are u saying i should wire it at 4 ohms, and maybe i dont need a new alt???

u have a d4..u can only wire at 2 ohm mono, 4 ohm stereo or 8 ohm mono.

the answer to ur question lies in ur amp....what is it? what are it's specs? does it have a regulated power supply?

and yes, the same power at 4 ohm is easier on the electrical system then the same power at 2 ohm...but i don't know why..lol..ijust know it is from experience. it has something to due with the current and amperge draw at that particular resistance...assuming both class d or similiar technology

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[ANeonRider 3]

P = (V^2) * R

More impedance = Less voltage needed to be created by the amp = Less current needed.

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

the viper is a great amp, I prefer the Orion 1200D

[mrray13 30]

P = (V^2) * R

More impedance = Less voltage needed to be created by the amp = Less current needed.

thank you sir!!!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[MrSwiss 0]

so i have my single rl-p bridged @ 2 ohms. are u saying i should wire it at 4 ohms, and maybe i dont need a new alt???

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

u have a d4..u can only wire at 2 ohm mono, 4 ohm stereo or 8 ohm mono.

the answer to ur question lies in ur amp....what is it? what are it's specs? does it have a regulated power supply?

and yes, the same power at 4 ohm is easier on the electrical system then the same power at 2 ohm...but i don't know why..lol..ijust know it is from experience. it has something to due with the current and amperge draw at that particular resistance...assuming both class d or similiar technology

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

hmm since i only have one rl-p, then it wouldnt be smart to wire it at 4 ohms stereo. its a power acoustik 1600w amp not sure which series.

[mrray13 30]

so i have my single rl-p bridged @ 2 ohms. are u saying i should wire it at 4 ohms, and maybe i dont need a new alt???

u have a d4..u can only wire at 2 ohm mono, 4 ohm stereo or 8 ohm mono.

the answer to ur question lies in ur amp....what is it? what are it's specs? does it have a regulated power supply?

and yes, the same power at 4 ohm is easier on the electrical system then the same power at 2 ohm...but i don't know why..lol..ijust know it is from experience. it has something to due with the current and amperge draw at that particular resistance...assuming both class d or similiar technology

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

hmm since i only have one rl-p, then it wouldnt be smart to wire it at 4 ohms stereo. its a power acoustik 1600w amp not sure which series.

the power an amp puts at 2 ohm mono would be tghe same power it puts out at 1 ohm stereo, if a two channel amp...so u would be losing power by going 4ohm stereo...

also, what two channel amp is 2 ohm stable mono? are u sure it's not a mono block amp? (even if it has a left and right output terminal, it's internally bridged) in which case, even if wired up seperately, u'd still be at 2 ohm mono...

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[MrSwiss 0]

well i rewired the sub today using a 8 ohm diagram, altho its still bridged for a mono output, so that would make it 4 ohms correct?

its a power acoutik amp, and u bridge the postive of 1 channel and the negative of the other channel to the sub, that would make it mono correct.

[Supa_c 1]

yes, yes

[MrSwiss 0]

the only negative of this operation is that i reused the same wire, and it was a bit lengthy, so i think its rattling slighty against the box interior. and when the volume is low u can hear it. of course the trunk must be open and u would have to have your ear to it. otherwords, u can hear a thing inside the vehicle. and my lights no longer dimm. and after a day of average travel, the sub appears to be putting out a steady volume than b4. u could literally predict when the car was gonna die becuz the sub would start to get quiet, and loud, and quiet again. im glad that is fixed.

[SoundSplinter 1]

Glad to hear the troubleshooting went well

Don't want to suck all the juice outta yo' ride

[mrray13 30]

well i rewired the sub today using a 8 ohm diagram, altho its still bridged for a mono output, so that would make it 4 ohms correct?

its a power acoutik amp, and u bridge the postive of 1 channel and the negative of the other channel to the sub, that would make it mono correct.

yes, no, and yes...

yes, if u series ur dvc 4 ohm sub, ur at 8 ohms...

no, ur not at 4 ohm because ur not paralleling to another sub. regardless of mono or stereo, the impedence is determined by the sub, not the amp. by having one just one dvc 4 sub u can only wire in 2 ohm mono, 4 ohm stereo and 8 ohm mono. and 4 ohm stereo will give u the same power as 8 ohm mono.

yes, that is how u bridge an amp...unless it's already a mono block. u need to get us the model number of ur amp as i still don't think it's a two channel amp. i have yet to see a two channel amp that is 2 ohm mono stable. at least rated.

and ur car is going to love ya as ur only pulling about half the power (if it's two channel, quarter of the power if it's mono block) that the amp can make by running at 8 ohm.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[MrSwiss 0]

bleh! im still getting power fluctuations it doesnt make sense. my lights are not dimming tho.

here is the amp i have

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ssPageName=WDVW

[mrray13 30]

u see the part where it reads "2 ohm stereo stable, 4ohm MONO"

by running it 2 ohm mono, u could have hurt ur amp and hence teh recurring power issues....

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[Supa_c 1]

yes, that is how u bridge an amp...unless it's already a mono block. u need to get us the model number of ur amp as i still don't think it's a two channel amp. i have yet to see a two channel amp that is 2 ohm mono stable. at least rated.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I can name like 5.

*cough* MA Audio A/B class HK amps* cough*

[MrSwiss 0]

u see the part where it reads "2 ohm stereo stable, 4ohm MONO"

by running it 2 ohm mono, u could have hurt ur amp and hence teh recurring power issues....

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

well im not exactly an audio veteran. im not even sure if it was 2 ohm mono. tho i did fry 1 amp already on this rl-p. im more than sure the one i have now is installed and wired correctly. i know its my car electrical system. i can check by testing my blinkers. when they blink in long intervals, the battery isnt charging. turn off the bass for about 5 mins, and theyu begin to blink at normal speed once again. Maybe its time to up the big 3.

[Supa_c 1]

Big 3 is good