Plan my setup?

[lazeris 0]

I have ideas about what I am going with but I want to see what others would do in my situation.

I want to get as loud as possible in a setup with one battery under the hood.

Here is the catch. The battery has already been decided. It is a XS Power D3400. Stock alt.

Lets just look at the subwoofer setup. I am keeping my stock mids and highs for now.

Also I would like to keep as much cargo space as I can in my small SUV.

I will even throw this out there. For the sub box I have about 5 cubes of space I can work with.

So basically I am looking for a sub/amp combination that would work with my electrical.

[ssh 924]

What vehicle is this going in? cr-v (username)? suv (in text)?

whats your budget? your going to need wiring,fuse(s),amp(s),driver(s),enclosure,etc...

Can you build your own enclosure or are you going to pay someone else to build one.

since you stated you want spl, tune high. Are you planning on competing? Or is this just for playing music?

Edited June 27, 2010 by stefanhinote

[kirill007 52]

A CR-V is a small SUV .

What is you're budget?

[ssh 924]

A CR-V is a small SUV .

What is you're budget?

opps, was thinking crx

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

Budget? or this is a waste of time.

[ssh 924]

My guess is if you won't replace your stock alt, then your budget isn't going to be very much...

[lazeris 0]

I would love to replace my stock alt but It will cost around $700 just for the alt, and its mounted under the engine so I do not want to tackle that job so that means I would have to pay someone to do it. I am making %30 percent less than I was when I got laid off from my old job. Im happy to have a job but I just will not be able to put in the system I wanted.

Yes it is a CRV, its an 07' I am keeping the stock system in for now because I LOVE the navigation unit in there and I already have an RF 360.2 I will be using to tap into the stock sound system. I may add a 4ch down the road but it will not be anything big.

I can build my own box and will be doing so.

Wires, fuses, ect, I already have.

The problem I am having is choosing the right sub/amp combo. Yes I want to get as loud as possible, but this will be for music.

I may compete from time to time but it would probably be just bass race.

If you want a budget lets say $1000, JUST SUB(s) & AMP.

I know it depends alot on install but like I said I have about 5 cubes to play with for the sub box alone.

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

How many amps is your stock alt/?

Can you put another battery in the back?

[ssh 924]

15" BTL and a saz-2000d would be a good setup under $1000

ScottXGTR is selling a new saz-2000d in F/S section for $425.

I'm not entirely sure what your stock alt and battery can handle as far as current draw. 2000watts may be pushing it, but you could always lower the gain.

[lazeris 0]

Stock alt is 110amp. IF i absolutely have to, I have a Kinetik HC1400 I can put in the back, but I would rather save the space/weight of adding an extra battery. I also would not put anything bigger than a HC1400 in the back if I needed an extra battery.

[Bearlokey13 2]

You're looking at the wrong equipment if you're worried about weight. The BTL is somewhere around 70 pounds and an enclosure for it won't be a slouch either. If you don't want to add an extra battery fine, but at the very least pick up a volt meter.

Edit: spelling.

Edited June 27, 2010 by Bearlokey13

[lazeris 0]

Good idea on the volt meter. I will use that. Still want more suggestions on amp/sub combos.

Here is what I am leaning towards right now:

1 DC Audio LVL4XL 15" in 5 cubes @ 35hz off of a Stetsom 1k5.

Would that get me in the low to mid 140's on music so I can bass race 139.9 class? BTW the amp sub combo does not necessarily have to do that, but it would be nice.

Edited June 28, 2010 by CR-V

[ssh 924]

Bearlokey13 has a good point and your not mentioning anything about it.

It's possible to get in that range, but doesn't mean it will. Installation,enclosure, and direction of driver(s) and port, all come into play, the only way to tell is to install it and meter it.

[Bearlokey13 2]

Again, if you're so concerned about weight that you can't add another battery in the back then you are looking at the wrong equipment. My biggest concern here is that you will drop around $1000 on a sub and an amp and fry it in a month or so cause you have your stock charging system. I've had that happen and it sucks. If you're looking at anything north of 1000 watts you should really consider at least another battery. IT TAKES POWER TO MAKE POWER!

[lazeris 0]

Would the HC1400 be good enough as a supplement batt in the rear? I'm very careful with my equipment. Iv had the following setups and never fried and amp or blown a sub:

Very first system I messed around with was when I was about 13, LOL, this is embarrasing but I hooked this up in my moms ride. Two Radio Shack Optimus 8's in truck style sealed enclosures on a sherwood 2ch amp.

Then at 16 my older brother wanted something installed in his new 97 civic, so I put in two Orion XTR2 8's in a bandpass box off of a little 2 ch Power Acoustic amp.

When I got my first car or truck I should say, I took the Orion subs and we put in two Pioneer 12's in bandpass boxes off of a JBL amp, I forget the model.

Well soon after I sold the Orion subs and gave the little Power Acoustic to a cousin and purchased two JL W3 10's in a sealed box and a Precision Power PC2400 ( I think that was the model)

Then I sold my 88' S-10 (stupidest thing I ever did) because I had gotten a new 2000 Malibu I purchased some W3 12's in a prefab sealed box being pushed by a JBL BP1200.1 (great amp)

I think this is getting too long so I will just say my next few sub/amp combos were never abused and worked great while I owned them, these were all on stock electrical unless noted otherwise.

2- Rockford Fosgate HX2 12's/JBL1200.1 (same as above)

2- MTX 9512/Hifonics Brutus BXI2005 (I think that was the model) With this setup I had two yellow tops, one in front, one in back and big three done.

1- RE Audio MX18/US Amps AX3200-DE (ran at 2ohms) Kinetik hc1400 in front, HC2000 in back.

2- TC Sounds OEM10's/same amp as above, still at 2ohms. Same batteries as above.

Maybe I don't push my system as hard as others do, I dont know, but the loudest I have gotten on music has been about 135 decibels. Main reason I started this threat is to see what others thought would be good for a one battery setup and if that could get me 140's on music. I may be looking into this too much but I just wanted some opinions before I start making some purchases.

[Julian 641]

I would chose more cone area over a single woofer, it'll allow you to get louder on lower amounts of power. Subwoofers such as most Sundown love smaller enclosures, so you can fit a little more in a smaller space.

i would go with two 12's, it may be slightly more but it will be worth it.

[Duran 387]

I agree with Julian

[Julian 641]

I would consider Two Sundown Audio SA-12 and to pair it with a single SAE-1200Dv2 Refurbished from Db-R that would put you right at 640 before shipping. It would sound great, look great, and be loud! That would leave money for your front stage!

[lazeris 0]

Good input, thanks Julian.

[Duran 387]

I think SA-12"s off the Stetsom you were looking at, or a SounDigital amplifier would be awesome, especially to take up less space. The enclosure is pretty much the most important part of the whole sub bass system, get a solid design and build it right and you will be more than pleased, and easily bassrace 39.9 class

[Julian 641]

Also it may be more expensive but Turpan Light is lighter than MDF if i can remember much lighter, and this may be an option for you to lower weight.

[Duran 387]

Also it may be more expensive but Turpan Light is lighter than MDF if i can remember much lighter, and this may be an option for you to lower weight.

Yes MUCH lighter, easier on cutting tools, leaves less dust, and not as bad for your lungs because of less dust

[Julian 641]

Also it may be more expensive but Turpan Light is lighter than MDF if i can remember much lighter, and this may be an option for you to lower weight.

Yes MUCH lighter, easier on cutting tools, leaves less dust, and not as bad for your lungs because of less dust

But as all intelligent people know you should always wear a mask

You may have to special order it in your area or go to a lumbar yard. I went to Lowes and Home Depot and they were like "Wutt? " but you can find it none the less.

[Duran 387]

Also it may be more expensive but Turpan Light is lighter than MDF if i can remember much lighter, and this may be an option for you to lower weight.

Yes MUCH lighter, easier on cutting tools, leaves less dust, and not as bad for your lungs because of less dust

But as all intelligent people know you should always wear a mask