Voice Coils Blew!

[KeeEnterprises 0]

I have a PowerBass XS15Dv.2 that I just picked up and only had 500Watts RMS pushing the Damn thing and the positive on one side & neg. on the other blew!(Voice Coils) What would cause this? I bridged my Phoenix Gold XS2500 and had the Sensitivity & Bass controls at about half way up! I hooked up the sub in Parrallel config. How can you blow the voice coils of a 1000W RMS Sub if you hook up 500W to it! Can someone explain! Also how can I get it fixed? Thanks

[ANeonRider 3]

Clipped the amp probably. Just putting the gains half way up is not the proper way to set the gain.

To get it fixed, you will need a recone.

[mrray13 30]

I have a PowerBass XS15Dv.2 that I just picked up and only had 500Watts RMS pushing the Damn thing and the positive on one side & neg. on the other blew!(Voice Coils) What would cause this? I bridged my Phoenix Gold XS2500 and had the Sensitivity & Bass controls at about half way up! I hooked up the sub in Parrallel config. How can you blow the voice coils of a 1000W RMS Sub if you hook up 500W to it! Can someone explain! Also how can I get it fixed? Thanks

is that sub a dual 2 ohm voicecoil? if so, and by wiring it up in parallel, you sent a bit more then 500wrms to it.

the xs2500 is a two channel a/b amp, rated for 250wrms x 2 @ 2ohm, 125wrms x 2 @ 4ohm and 500 wrms x 1 @ 4ohm. it isn't designed to be ran at 1 ohm, which is what you wired it to by using a parallel wiring setup. you needed to wire up in series to achieve 4 ohm, which would have been fine.

now, when i owned my xs2500, i was told it would indeed handle 1 ohm and produce about 1200wrms. so i wired it up for 1 ohm. and i'm surprised it didn't burn down my truck. that's how hot it got. it never did shut off, and though i never got it benched, i would say that it did produce real close to the 1kwrms level (going by what happened when i replaced the xs2500 with a st1000d memphis).

that being said, you blew your sub due to a few reasons. from what i can gather, you've probably pushed it very hard the whole time you've had it, was pushing it with more power then you had thought, was more then likely sending it a clipped signal the whole time and depending upon box (which you didn't mention), probably fatigued the tinsel leads to the point that they broke (which is what i've gathered you've done by your statement " the positive on one side and the negative on the other" ).

the cure? like aneonrider mentioned above, a recone. you'll have to contact powerbass as to the specifics. learn how to set your gains, there are a few good threads here to help with that. and (if my assumption is true about the sub being a dual 2) read up on some wiring diagrams to help out next time.

btw, the "bass control" is another term for bass boost, which = bad! you definitely don't want that turned halfway up with the gain halfway up. all it does is reinforce a very narrow range of frequency, like 40-45hz, and will lead to premature clipping of the amp's signal.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[KeeEnterprises 0]

Thanks mrray13! I been needed some advice on setting gains and all that Mumbo Jumbo Car installation stuff! But 4 Reals that was some knowledge and therefore I will soak it up like a sponge! I thought that it could be possible for the XS2500 to push 1000 Watts since it says 500X1 @ 2 ohms but I wasn't sure if it could push that much Power! Now I know! The chitty thing is know I have to send it in somewhere and the damn thing weighs like 51 pounds and shipping both ways is gonna be a few bucks! Also can you tell me if the FUBAR 15 inch sub I have is gonna do the same thing if I have it hooked up the same way! Will the voice coils blow on that also? It is Rated at a 1000Watts RMS also and is a Dual 4 Ohm Coil Sub! Thanks again mrray13 and I know where to go for all future car audio questions! Much Respects!

[///M5 2,833]

You can pretty much blow anything if you are clipping your signal. Speakers do not like square waves very much. Get a digital multi meter and use it (search the forum for Gain Setting) and you would be fine even with way more pwer than the sub should support...

[mrray13 30]

Kee...IME, the fubr is just that, fubred...

anyway, and it's not really going to work with the pg amp, which IIRC, is 500 x1 @ 4ohms. the d4 fubr won't get to 4 ohms, only 2 or 8. if u want to wire it up in parallel and try it, go ahead.(again, IME with the xs2500, it should handle it) but please read the gain setting tutorial in the amp section of this forum. and turn ur bass control all the way down.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[KeeEnterprises 0]

What does that mean IME and the part about the Fubar being fubred or whatever? No im not blonde! Just not to hip with all the car audio lingo! Thanks again mrray13!

[mrray13 30]

IME= In My Experience

the fubr is junk, IME. the several i have seen installed have all failed in one way or another. but maybe u'll have better luck!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[KeeEnterprises 0]

Thanks mrray13 & maybe I'll sell it! How would you hook up 2 15 inch JL W6's with a PPI PC2150 Amp? Subs are in Ported Boxes with about 2.0cubic ft per box! Ports are circular and 4 inches in diameter and 8 inches in length! Thanks

[mrray13 30]

Thanks mrray13 & maybe I'll sell it! How would you hook up 2 15 inch JL W6's with a PPI PC2150 Amp? Subs are in Ported Boxes with about 2.0cubic ft per box! Ports are circular and 4 inches in diameter and 8 inches in length! Thanks

with speaker wire....

but for real..what impedence are the voice coils on the w6's?

specs on the ppi amp?

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[KeeEnterprises 0]

Got Jokes Mr G Unit???Its cool cuz a sense of humor is a must! Well the W-6's are Dual 6 ohm subs rated at 400W RMS and 800W Peak and the PPI is rated at 150w rms x 2 at 4 ohms, or 300w rms x 2 at 2 ohms, or 600w x 1 at 4 ohms bridged! THE