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kryptonitewhite

(4) Custom Fi 18's (4) AP30001Ds 45 cubic feet 20" port @ 24Hz

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Lmao oh shit the batmobile though?

8$'s a pop?

man workin on erebodys stuff gotta be bringin in a lil money...

where da vids at?

Lmao

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I lost more than I made last year, those guys had me workin like a dog for yup, $8, but he was my neighbor, we looked out... he'd bring ribs over and use my grill and Id get a pile of meat. I always waited for him to hook me up with his... business... lol but I never had any... offers :-P

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so what did you do in the last update?

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so what did you do in the last update?

painted the caulk that i put in the front laast fall, taped off the two tweeters and used caulk to build false pods for them, then painted the pods. i didnt upload the pics off the painted pods or final pics cause it looks like shit. but you know me i dont care what it looks like it sounds amazing and is plenty loud (:

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I gain matched last night, my ears hurt again and they did yesterday... louder, less voltage drop, no stinky! I raised the 9.8V and 14.9V gains to 17.9 with the other two. Who would ahve thought if you eyeball four amps as close as possible, they could be so far off?!?! Less excursion too...from the two amps that were higher...DUH!

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Putting foam/duct tape/PL PRO/resin in the door jambs helped tremendousely.... brought door flex down from a couple inches to a fraction of an inch, so much that all the little kiddies talk about how weak my setup is and how I have no flex, cuz theyre uber cool and think flex is good. However, since it still moves 1/4" - 1/2" and even more sometimes, enough to see through the door jamb when it hits going down the road, it creates a ton of heat going back and forth 15 times to 200 times per second. It has burnt through the resin and some of the PRO has turned black. I hit them with more resin tonight for now.

From 30Hz down my van is MUCH quieter than 30Hz on up, despite the airspace, tuning, and 9dB gain at 22Hz.... I got 148dB below 30Hz and I am guessing I do mid 50's while cruising around.... yet I can hear the squeak and squeel of the resin against resin, caulk against caulk as my doors flex...it's terrible. I hear this inside the vehicle so I can only imagine how bad it sounds to cars next to me before they get the chance to cover their ears, give me a look, and speed off.

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where all the white is is where it rubbed through the resin that coated over the red paint, through the red paint which coated the yellow caulk. I originally painted it again after it was finished but the doors would get stuck shut...paint stuck to itself... so I coated it with more resin so it would slide.

CIMG4478.jpg

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...It took all that to figure out that an IB sub isnt designed for a ported box?

i dont have the IB3s in anymore dick head

what happened to your big ass 4th order anyway? you broke too much shit over and over cuz it was too loud so u got rid of it? good 4 u. thought u were pretty cool back in the day but ure a prick. id rather talk with nice people that dont know shit than assholes just cuz they know their shit.

I do my shit different. thats not gonna change. dont like it go the fuck away. you obviousely know what u r doing, im sure theres plenty of experts here for you to chit chat and bs with, and im sure theres plenty of noobys and novices that will actually take your advice. i am neither. so why do you keep coming back with that same attitude? fuck off man.

anyway, back to me making my mistakes and asking for some advice, with the disclosure that just cuz u give it doesnt mean Im gonna take it, even if I proved myself wrong and you right:

I am lost. Here are the Thiele/Small params for the old Blue Print Audio 1803 subwoofers:

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=3189

Fs = 25.0 Hz

Re = 3.6 Ohms

Qms = 7.22

Qes = 0.38

Qts = 0.35

Cms = 130.0 uM/N

Mms = 300.0 grams

Sd = 1217.0 cmsq

Vas = 279.4 liters

SPL = 92.1 dB

X-max = 45mm p-p

Power = 1000+ watts

remaining stock was bought up by audioliquidators and they rebuilt them with these specs:

http://www.hometheaterforum.com/forum/thread/154585/i-just-found-some-bpd1803-s-for-sale

Fs 26.3 Hz

Re 3.6 Ohms

Qms 6.06

Qes .40

Qts .37

Cms 1.1X10-4

Mms 326 g

Sd 1210 cm^2

Vas 230.1 l

Bl 22.1

Xmax 25.9mm

Rms 1000W

They originals have been regularly compared to RE Audio HCs

http://audioforum.termpro.com/topic/8/9804.html

Re 1.8 or .9 per coil

Fs 26.1

Qms 11.97

Qes .44

Qts .42

Vas 204 l

Sd 1217 cm^2

Bl 22.6

1200 W RMS

Here are the specs I was given, I think Scott gave them to the person i purchased them from:

Fs = 23.7 Hz

Re = 1.8 Ohms

Qms = 7.22

Qes = 0.38

Qts = 0.35

Cms = 130.0 uM/N

Mms = 300.0 grams

Sd = 1217.0 cmsq

Vas = 279.4 liters

SPL = 92.1 dB

X-max = 40mm

Power = 1,500+ watts

The specs directly above show a flat responce in WinISD without adding in any room/cabin gain. I assumed that the van would have roughly 6dB-12dB/octave gain.

However even with 9dB of PEQ gain at 22Hz doesnt yield a heavy bottom end or even a flat responce. With my cabin being SPL-like in nature: as small as possible and as ridgid as possible, air tight with the exception of the windows down... is my cabin gain different?

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...It took all that to figure out that an IB sub isnt designed for a ported box?

BTW, since you choose to ignore what u dont want to hear like me hope you catch it here: The IB3s were louder than the new subs when it came to going full bore, but obviousely the IB3s couldnt do it for long periods of time at full bore. 2nd the IB3s went lower and higher, the new subs are much louder where I DONT want them louder....35Hz-55Hz. 3rd these new subs were DESIGNED for the enclosure I built: 8-15 cubic feet 15Hz-30Hz tune, home theater LLT/EBS subs.

Another thing you seem to forget. I didnt have the money for $400-$1000 subs. I didnt have the money for 12 or 24 subs. I didnt have the money for the bigger van, better amps, and to support the weight of 4th order and 2x4s.

You think youre so smart but you see what you want. My van is lighter from using foam. My IB3 subs cost $199 each!

My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each!

My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each!

My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each!

My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each! My IB3 subs cost $199 each!

Did you get that yet?

My new subs cost me LESS than that!

My new subs cost me LESS than that!

My new subs cost me LESS than that!

My new subs cost me LESS than that!

My new subs cost me LESS than that!

My new subs cost me LESS than that!

My new subs cost me LESS than that!

So get with it or please, PLEASE, just go away man. Again, I envy your build. If I could have Id have done what you did. OK?

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For those of you wondering why my IB3s were $199 not $219, Fi had semi-secret deals for home theater and still does. Buy 4 subs for home theater at the semi-secret email ib@ficaraudio.com and they give a discount. Q's, IB3s, whatever. I bought 6 18's to begin with, 2 for my HT and 4 for my van, SHIPPED for $1300. I couldnt have afforded a HT and van build with $400+ subs.

I then sold the 2 HT subs and bought 4 more for the HT... 4 18's SHIPPED for $880

thanks.

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galacticmonkey has a build? Where?

Kryptonitewhite: Don't worry what others say. It's a learning experience for you, and you only. You are doing good by giving your results on the forum. If aybody don't like that, well, you've already said it.

And yes, the Astro is much lighter than an Express, or whatever. But it can do just as much, or more. hehe.

Keep up the good work man.

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Thanks Tech. galac did a 4th order with 24 15" mayhems or something like that, bunch of alts, batterys, and saz amps...all kinds of wire and mids/highs in the doors. Went down to 1Hz moving air and things in the port. Riped his doors, kept tearing things apart under the hood. Extremely loud.

Its just people ecpect you to do things their way, assume you have the money to do so jusut because you use 18's and build a wall.

What they dont get is that I am 1: on a budget 2: after a different FR responce curve than usual, so me going with huge cone area, a wall, very reinforced, gobs of power... was to make up for what I lose by tuning so low and going with cheaper drivers. I have extra airspace to have a peaked low end responce and to require less power on less powerful driver motors.

But Ive explained that till I was blue in the face all to many times, and since you get it or at least acknowledge that, fuck them and thank you. Very much, and I mean that.

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I didn't see his build. Must have missed it somewhere in all the forums I visit.

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I visit quite a few myself off and on, only 2 regularly...neither of which is this one. I get mixed results here, a few good replies, a lot of bad ones, then a few good ones again.

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You are doing good by giving your results on the forum.

Actually no, he is misleading noobs. Luckily the install quality will have them questioning it anyways.

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You are doing good by giving your results on the forum.

Actually no, he is misleading noobs. Luckily the install quality will have them questioning it anyways.

His builds are unconventional, and almost always using the wrong equipment for the job, but they sure are fun to watch :popcorn:

Just gotta take it for what it is, if someone can't look through his pictures and really question whether this is being done correctly, then it's their fault if they follow in his footsteps.

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You are doing good by giving your results on the forum.

Actually no, he is misleading noobs. Luckily the install quality will have them questioning it anyways.

youre the one thats misleading, youve got a rubber stamp that assumes everyone desires the same thing. Though you are right 95% of the time, all you do is fuck it up for the other 5%. But this 5% gives a big middle finger to you and your bullshit.

You are doing good by giving your results on the forum.

Actually no, he is misleading noobs. Luckily the install quality will have them questioning it anyways.

His builds are unconventional, and almost always using the wrong equipment for the job, but they sure are fun to watch :popcorn:

Just gotta take it for what it is, if someone can't look through his pictures and really question whether this is being done correctly, then it's their fault if they follow in his footsteps.

Ill take that. I appreciate this much better form of constructive criticism. You sir should be commended.

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You are doing good by giving your results on the forum.

Actually no, he is misleading noobs. Luckily the install quality will have them questioning it anyways.

youre the one thats misleading, youve got a rubber stamp that assumes everyone desires the same thing. Though you are right 95% of the time, all you do is fuck it up for the other 5%. But this 5% gives a big middle finger to you and your bullshit.

I definitely don't assume everyone desires the same thing and I also know that 99.9% of the people on here don't want what I do, but what I do is try to help people with what they want and not what I do. In your case you just do shit thinking you know something but are way off on a few critical details. There is a reason you are the laughing stock of the whole car audio internet.

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smd douchbag or not, i am after somethings very different than everyone else, and everyone elses way of doing it on my budget wouldnt get me there

i dont mind being the laughing stock, the pressure from that alone on a daily basis is more than you could ever bear. from where I stand youve got it pretty easy, must be true cuz if it wasnt you wouldnt run your mouth to me the way you do...eternally. youd have moved on and left me alone by now. or at least used a fraction of that mass inteligence that i will admit I know you have to go out of your way just once, write up a little disclaimer on my behalf, and stamp it on all of my threads every time you feel the need to...well, run your mouth.

" I am ///M5. I know what I am doing. I am here to help those who will listen, as well as protect the noobs from people like krypto. if you choose to do things douchbag's way, do so at your own risk. before attempting anything you see krypto do, it would be wise of you to PM me or start your own thread asking about such actions. we here at ssa will do our best to protect our newborn sheep in our flock from the likes of the laughing stock of the entire audio comunity. thank you. ///M5"

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Just because his builds are unconventional and he uses the wrong equipment makes him the laughing stock? At least he has the guts to try doing something different. A lot of car audio is thinking outside the box, which is what he is doing. He may not be doing it your way or my way but should we condemn him for that, no.

Over the years people have tried new things with car audio. Some worked, some didn't. Some that worked people didn't think they would. Ideas and imagination within the car audio world is a great thing to have.

Look at what was said about using walls, before it became a common thing. Same thing with 4th orders, or 6th orders, or even ported for that matter (most of y'all would go back far enough to remember when ported enclosures in vehicles became "cool"). There are lots of tried and true builds out there, but most of them copy somebody, somewhere. Krypton is doing his own thing, reporting his results, and doing the best he can with what he has. You can't condemn a man for doing that.

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i dont mind being the laughing stock, the pressure from that alone on a daily basis is more than you could ever bear. from where I stand youve got it pretty easy, must be true cuz if it wasnt you wouldnt run your mouth to me the way you do...eternally. youd have moved on and left me alone by now. or at least used a fraction of that mass inteligence that i will admit I know you have to go out of your way just once, write up a little disclaimer on my behalf, and stamp it on all of my threads every time you feel the need to...well, run your mouth.

Then its working.

As for running my mouth, I generally ignore all your posts and just laugh anyways. The only time I comment is when I want to be sure that some noob reading your idiotic banter knows better. Keep posting stupid ideas, I'll keep commenting.

Just because his builds are unconventional and he uses the wrong equipment makes him the laughing stock? At least he has the guts to try doing something different. A lot of car audio is thinking outside the box, which is what he is doing. He may not be doing it your way or my way but should we condemn him for that, no.

Not unconventional, but dumb and based on poor assumptions. HUGE difference. I am all for unconventional.

Look at what was said about using walls, before it became a common thing. Same thing with 4th orders, or 6th orders, or even ported for that matter (most of y'all would go back far enough to remember when ported enclosures in vehicles became "cool"). There are lots of tried and true builds out there, but most of them copy somebody, somewhere. Krypton is doing his own thing, reporting his results, and doing the best he can with what he has. You can't condemn a man for doing that.

Ported enclosures cool? It was never about cool, but effectiveness. Math is really simple for most to understand anyways. As for the time, I had a 4th order in my car in 1990 and it wasn't even close to my first box with a port either.

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I don't understand why anybody would get so worked up over another man spending his money building what he wants for himself. I could understand if we were talking about a shop taking customers money but thats far from whats going on here. I just like the fact that some people are still willing to build something without having to get everybodys opinion of how to do it.

Car audio in general is mostly a matter of personal preferance and opinion anyways. What sounds "good" to one will not sound "good" to all.

Keep doing your thing Krypt if you enjoy doing the builds and it keeps you content. Theres enough sheep in this world anyways. If nothing else you keep everybody wondering what crazy shit you'll do next.

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rechecked the amp to make sure, then the fun began. Had to pull amp 1 out of the way, it wouldnt fit with the 2x4 that the 2nd KX850.4 mounts to, had to use the jig saw to cut the end off. Busted out the dry vac, suddenly it bogged down and started stinkin and the lights were dimming...blew the motor. Grabbed the vaccum, it wasnt sucking. Emptied it, tried again, still didnt suck. Pulled amp 1, then amp 2, then put amp 1 into amp 2's place.

Before

CIMG4518.jpg

2x4 in the way

CIMG4519.jpg

jig saw

CIMG4520.jpg

lugging the vaccume in, process repeat to empty it

CIMG4521.jpg

amp 1 removed

CIMG4522.jpg

looks naked

CIMG4523.jpg

now it looks really naked made me feel kinda weird

CIMG4524.jpg

keep tryin to get them KX850.4s to make babys, none have fallen out yet

CIMG4525.jpg

amp porn... they dont mind

CIMG4526.jpg

the disgusting part. if you dont know what youre seeing, I wont tell you

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ah, if they smoked....

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amp 1, you are now amp 2.

CIMG4529.jpg

back to audiopipe you must go. dont you fuck with me and tell them any lies, you are a strait warranty issue. hear me?

CIMG4530.jpg

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Just because his builds are unconventional and he uses the wrong equipment makes him the laughing stock? At least he has the guts to try doing something different. A lot of car audio is thinking outside the box, which is what he is doing. He may not be doing it your way or my way but should we condemn him for that, no.

Over the years people have tried new things with car audio. Some worked, some didn't. Some that worked people didn't think they would. Ideas and imagination within the car audio world is a great thing to have.

Look at what was said about using walls, before it became a common thing. Same thing with 4th orders, or 6th orders, or even ported for that matter (most of y'all would go back far enough to remember when ported enclosures in vehicles became "cool"). There are lots of tried and true builds out there, but most of them copy somebody, somewhere. Krypton is doing his own thing, reporting his results, and doing the best he can with what he has. You can't condemn a man for doing that.

Thank you very much Tech. I try to keep honest and admit the experiments and ideas that dont work as well as cram the ones that do down everyones throat.

The IB3s would have worked great in the initial 110 cubic feet tuned 1/2 octave lower... the did not in the final enclosure. I admit that. I thought I would only use 10% of my power 90% of the time, boy was I WAY wrong on that. Ive had nothing but problems because I didnt budget in a 2nd larger alternator and wire, brackets, and belt to run it. I learned with the foam: NOT to not do it, screw everyone that hates on the foam, I learned to only do a few cans in one spot at a time and let it set for at least a day... not 15 cans at a time and let them sit for an hour. Duct tape? PL PRO? I am still a white trash redneck i guess, windows up you cant tell there is violence inside. Roll them down and my windows flex three times further than I can by hand. But hey, it's quiet ;)

Again, thank you TechSys!

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