Look what DC Power sent me

[edouble101 314]

Good videos. Strong alternator. But I have one thing to say. That stealth install you have, of the headunit, is great.

Thanks

You beat me to it while I was sleeping

Kyle obv ninja'd the vid... Just venturing to guess, I'd bet the voltage drops are from engine rpm drops, not the alternator.. Most 4 cyl cars hit a wall at some point and start to drop.. Still pretty impressive on 3Kw, at idle, and with the defrost on blast. That's where XPs are just win, win, win though... Thanks for posting those up Eric!

Sure thing Robbie, thank you

I wasn't watching engine RPM. But I will take note. I was planning on running a 1/0 ground from the alternator directly to the battery but I only have one 1/0 lug laying around. More 1/0 lugs are on order. Do you think this will help any or would I be wasting money?

I am typing you an email now Kyle.

Where would you connect this wire to? Between alt case and steel bolt when mounted to engine? I would think the ground would be sufficient, considering the case itself is the ground, when it's bolted in, that's a pretty big piece of conductive metal it's bolted to.

Yes at the alt mounting location. I currently have two engine grounds in 1/0. Running one directly from the alt to battery maybe worthwhile, idk. Other alt manufacturers recommend it.....

Good videos. Strong alternator. But I have one thing to say. That stealth install you have, of the headunit, is great.

lol I didn't even notice that stealth install cus I skipped around in the video but that is badass.

Thanks

[edouble101 314]

Driving to work this morning my voltage was very sporadic. It was jumping from 15v down to 13.4v. My headlights were dimming because of the nearly 2v changes. Engine rpm were above 2000.

[slim2fattycake 85]

Maybe belt slip or your car is gay... my car is gay.

[ssh 924]

Maybe belt slip or your car is gay... my car is gay.

x2 on belt slip, even if it didn't squeal.

When I installed my dc alt I had a little slip, but wasn't worrying about it until I got all the electrical wired up for the alt.

Once I was done wiring up the harness, I'd start it up, and voltage was awful, checked all my connections and made sure harness was getting power, etc.

Finally I tightened up the tensioner and fixed the slipping, and boom 15v+

And I'll add, running a saz1500d at full tilt with no additional batteries, voltage would be steady 14.5v+, but with the occasional fast dips to 13 then back up, that is normal, so don't freak out if your lcd meter goes to 13s for a split second and then back up to 14s

[edouble101 314]

That would be ironic for my belt to slip everytime the bass drops

I am waiting to hear Kyle or Robbies opinion and go from there. Imo these super effecient high output alts need a direct ground. I will do it and see.

[DC Power Kyle 21]

I have a 270 in my car and have no direct ground from the case. I go from the engine to chassis, chassis to battery and have no issues reaching full output. Hell, I'm now running 13kw on my 270 and hardly drop below 14v unless I really hammer on the thing with 1 run of 0ga to the back of pos an neg... Vids are to come of that.. soon.

As for the sporadic voltage drop, it sounds like belt slip to me.. try tightening the belt if needed and if you're still having an issue we can either get you a custom pulley thats bigger or if you get me the belt number i can get you a gates racing belt which are just full of win because they simply don't stretch like other conventional belts. lmk.

[edouble101 314]

Thanks Kyle.

[Notorious97200 339]

That is great customer service !

Impressive voltage now, with the new alt.

BTW I like your instal in the trunk, and for the cd player !!! Thieves can still want to steal it though !!!

I wish I could find one strong alt like that for my car : a poor toyota auris with 2 liters diesel engine. !

I'll pay what I have to for that !

[Jd377 6]

I know, the whole time I watched the vid. the first time, I almost didn't notice the voltage because I was too busy going whoa legit on the cd player "hidden" install LOL. That is so tight.

[edouble101 314]

I know, the whole time I watched the vid. the first time, I almost didn't notice the voltage because I was too busy going whoa legit on the cd player "hidden" install LOL. That is so tight.

Thanks bro. My next install I will be mounting the faceplate where the rearview mirror is teathered to the hu in the glove box

I am getting my car inspected this afternoon. I used to work with the mechanics that are doing my inspection. I wil have them look over my belt tension. It is very tight now. Hell I had to put a wrench on the crank to rotate the crank to get the belt to slip on and then I adjusted the tension more after that. The factory belt was super tight, hardly any deflection.

[DC Power Rob 4]

It's the belt slipping.. It's not so much a matter of belt *tightness* as much as it is tightness vs. surface contact area... If you only are contacting say 60º of the pulley, that may be a problem no matter how tight it is.. The fact it was doing it while driving and not at idle lends more towards this theory.. We can send you a bigger pulley if you want, but I would really like a pic of the pulley and belt to get an idea of how the belt wrap is.. Glad to see you got it in though, and sorry about my bad measuring on the rear spacers.. Rob

[bird333 0]

Maybe belt slip or your car is gay... my car is gay.

Can you explain what you mean by this?

[edouble101 314]

It's the belt slipping.. It's not so much a matter of belt *tightness* as much as it is tightness vs. surface contact area... If you only are contacting say 60º of the pulley, that may be a problem no matter how tight it is.. The fact it was doing it while driving and not at idle lends more towards this theory.. We can send you a bigger pulley if you want, but I would really like a pic of the pulley and belt to get an idea of how the belt wrap is.. Glad to see you got it in though, and sorry about my bad measuring on the rear spacers.. Rob

Thanks for posting Robbie. No problem with the rear spacers. Kyle and I have been texting over the weekend and we have it figured out. I sent Kyle a few emails the last one is most important. With this XP design the factory alternator bracket needs modified. This may or may not be something the average customer can do if he does not have the right tools.

Here are some angles that I measured. This may help you determine if the pulley size is correct. The belt I am using is a Dayco Poly Rib 5040350. The mechanic that looked at my car said the belt tension was perfect. I could tighten it more if needed...maybe I will.

It is impossible to get a straight on shot of the alt installed on the vehicle. Here are some pictures, hope this helps.

[DC Power Rob 4]

Eric, I know exactly how to fix this, but your going to have to give me some time to fab it up. Basically we're just going to hang a backside idler pulley on the bottom alternator pivot bolt between the alt and crank pulley and put a larger diameter pulley on the alt. There's room there to do it without question and we do it all the time. You have the exact same problem as all Triton V8 Fords, shitty belt path and contact area. It's not that there's any problem with the 4G pulley turning an XP, we do it all the time, you just have to get enough belt wrap on the pulley. You only have 90º contact area there, and it's just not enough surface area. I just wanted to let you know that I hadn't forgot about this, just been thinking about how we're going to fix it.. Rob

[edouble101 314]

Sounds like a plan Robbie. Thanks for working on this.

I just moved into my house. The Linden Street address is no longer my address. I will not be receiving mail there. I pm'd you my new address.

Thank you,

Eric

[bird333 0]

Eric, I know exactly how to fix this, but your going to have to give me some time to fab it up. Basically we're just going to hang a backside idler pulley on the bottom alternator pivot bolt between the alt and crank pulley and put a larger diameter pulley on the alt. There's room there to do it without question and we do it all the time. You have the exact same problem as all Triton V8 Fords, shitty belt path and contact area. It's not that there's any problem with the 4G pulley turning an XP, we do it all the time, you just have to get enough belt wrap on the pulley. You only have 90º contact area there, and it's just not enough surface area. I just wanted to let you know that I hadn't forgot about this, just been thinking about how we're going to fix it.. Rob

Sorry to threadjack. I seem to have the same problem with belt slippage on my 180HP. Voltage is dropping between 1.5-2 volts on heavy bass hits. Is it possible to create an idler pulley for my car (96 Honda Accord) also? Here is a pic for reference.

Edited April 20, 2011 by bird333

[edouble101 314]

Kyle and Robbie this afternoon I started my car and before I even moved it my battery light came on. I turned on my hu to check voltage and my voltage meter read 12.5v. I turned the car off grabbed my dvm out of my garage and started the car again and checked voltage at the alternator, 12.6v. My 270XP appears to be dead after 2 months or so of use All of my connections are solid, charge wire secure alternator plug connected.

I swapped out the DC Power alt and bolted on my stock alt. Started car back up, dvm read 14.38v.

Kyle I heeded to your recommendations to not crank my stereo due to the 270XP voltage jumping around until Robbie came up with a solution. Since our conversation voltage was typically in the 15.1v to 14.1v range. This was with stereo on or off. I had no signs of alternator failure if you consider voltage jumping around normal during driving. Since installing the alt I have not done any mods to my car or stereo/electrical.

Please let me know what you want me to do.

[DC Power Kyle 21]

Eric, if you would send it back so we can take a look at it that would be great. This will also give us the opportunity to look at the modifications you had to do as well... let us know.

[edouble101 314]

Eric, if you would send it back so we can take a look at it that would be great. This will also give us the opportunity to look at the modifications you had to do as well... let us know.

I will ship the alt back asap. I am anxious to hear whats up.

The only mods I did to the alt was the housing. I marked the area that I removed material with yelliw paint stick to make it clear. I never dismantled the housing just only removed material for fitment.

Here is a pic (note yellow paint on housing)

Edited April 26, 2011 by edouble101

[DC Power Kyle 21]

Not saying the mods messed up the alternator, just to know what we need to fix in the housing to get it to fit is all

[edouble101 314]

Not saying the mods messed up the alternator, just to know what we need to fix in the housing to get it to fit is all

Let me know if there is anything else I can do to help.

[edouble101 314]

Here is UPS tracking information for the alt My link

[bird333 0]

Eric, I know exactly how to fix this, but your going to have to give me some time to fab it up. Basically we're just going to hang a backside idler pulley on the bottom alternator pivot bolt between the alt and crank pulley and put a larger diameter pulley on the alt. There's room there to do it without question and we do it all the time. You have the exact same problem as all Triton V8 Fords, shitty belt path and contact area. It's not that there's any problem with the 4G pulley turning an XP, we do it all the time, you just have to get enough belt wrap on the pulley. You only have 90º contact area there, and it's just not enough surface area. I just wanted to let you know that I hadn't forgot about this, just been thinking about how we're going to fix it.. Rob

Sorry to threadjack. I seem to have the same problem with belt slippage on my 180HP. Voltage is dropping between 1.5-2 volts on heavy bass hits. Is it possible to create an idler pulley for my car (96 Honda Accord) also? Here is a pic for reference.

Should I start a new thread about this?

[Ohjay 116]

Yes.

[edouble101 314]

You should be receiving my alternator today.