got a problem here

[snail05 0]

so i bought a re se 10 about a year ago. i bought it from dealer cost audio or whatever. either way ive heard of problems from this site after i ordered.

so i installed it friday for the first time. everything was hooked up correctly. triple checked before making it final. i turned on my hu, turned up the volume to just get the sub moving. after about an hour i turned it up a little more, went to the cargo area to check and i noticed this little paper ruslting sound. after a few more hours i turned the volume up more and the sound was more prominent. now its just annoying. i cant really hear it from the front. but its noticable from the back. as volume goes up it gets worse. i can hear it in the port too, however no where near as loud as the cone.

so i have four questions.

1. one of my allen head blots is stripped so i need some tips for getting that out.

2. could this woofer be fake? ive noticed most pictures have the cone design that orion (skateboard company) uses while mine has the letters re. still with the design of an fi sub or ssa with the spider cage though.

3. whats the deal? its definatly right from the cone. i can also hear it from the port. but it sounds great outside of this rattling type sound. no distortion, no stuggling with any notes and no smells after having it on for a while and having my nose to the port. ive read the paper rustling sound is probably a burnt vc. but i cant take the sub out w/o an answer to #1 and i dont smell anything. sub might still need some break in time, but it sounds like every other sub when i tap on it. and when i push down it goes down pretty easy, and doesnt seem too stiff. but like i said its brand new so its should be a little stiff i assume.

4. seeing as how im definatly past warranty, bought it from a crap website and it might be blown/fake... what would fit directly in the enclosure i have? i used t nuts ( the things you hammer in) so it need the same specs for mounting depth and cicumference and for the mounting screw holes to match up. i cant find a se 10 anywhere that has the older style cage and isnt from dealer cost. would an fi, ssa, aa sub match mounting wise?

anyone that can help will be greatly rewarded... with a big ol thank you!!

[Ohjay 116]

You have an older model RE SE series sub, the new ones are the X line and will be RE SEx and they use a different basket and cone. Get yourself something like this to remove the stripped screw...

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952155000P?mv=rr

If the woofer is blown, Fi can recone it or sell you a recone kit and you can diy.

[snail05 0]

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!

thats exactly what i need. i googled and found people saying they used torx bits... but i could stand the thought of potentially destroying my expensive bits.

basket is the word i was looking for, and yes i know about the new models. i bought the old one cuz i heard the "x" line sucked.

anyone think a recone for a newb is ok? ive never taken apart a speaker or anything but i know my way around a car and a tool box

[emh9009 199]

What's your SSf set to/box tuned to? Probably were bottoming out the sub. Figure out what went wrong before you fix the speaker and break it again in the same situation.

[emh9009 199]

Also, i bought an amp from them years ago. I had a little problem with the amp and the sent me a new one, no problem. So i was happy, no problems after that.

[snail05 0]

What is ssf?

Box should be tuned to 33 Hz @ 1.25 cubes. Built by argent audio

Sundown saz 1000d amp if it matters

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

can you take a vid of the sub?

<Might get more help if we could hear it too.

[snail05 0]

You can't really see much. I used my cell phone. Also sounds much bassier when your not so close but this is the sound I'm talking about.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bDei7sk3Wo

[jonbearsmt 919]

i have a re sx 18 that does the same shit, i think it maybe the dust cap im gonna glue it and see,

[jonbearsmt 919]

and just to be clear.. its even at very low volumes,

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

It could be the dust cap. Can you see anything obvious? Like where it is coming up from the cone.

I had a new sub that came to be like that where it wasn't glued on a spot for about 2", I just put some epoxy on it and laid something heavy there while it cured. It was making a similar sound and that got it straight.

How is the box? can you feel any obvious air leaks on the seams?

[snail05 0]

Yes its at low volumes too. You have to listen for, but its there.

I can't feel any leaks or looseness on the dust cap. How would I reglue the dustcap? My friend and i thought the same thing. It just seems like something is loose rather than broken. Plus the cone moves pretty good.

Edit: i did notice that around the edge of the dust cap it looks like it's raised or maybe just not glued on correctly. Ill try to pry on it a bit tomorrow.

Edited May 16, 2011 by snail05

[snail05 0]

Bump...

Where would I get a new dust cap? If its not too expensive ill just rip off the old and glue on the new

[S.DeYoung 967]

from RE?

[snail05 0]

=P ok... I'm just thinking if they discontinued the se for the se/x that the dust cap would be different and they wouldn't have any. But w/ e ill give them a call after i check some other things. I was gonna ohm the vc'sout and maybe glue down the tinsel leads and check the spider first.

[snail05 0]

Anyone feel like flaming today???

I used t nits to install the sub... i hammered them in to the front of my baffle.

It popped in my head today that air would leak out and cause this buzzing noise I'm hearing. I never heard anything about pushing them in the back from inside the enclosure. My friend actually asked me during our install and I said "no def not... I'm smart... I know what I'm doing." I think I'm gonna tell him to slap me later today.

Anyway. I'm thinking its gonna be a pita to get theses out. I have some extra dynamat from my last install. Can I use this as some sort of gasket? Seems easier then removing the t nuts IMO.

Thanks again.

Edited May 25, 2011 by snail05

[cobra93 47]

Umm.... The t-nuts should be on the inside of the box.

I use a c-clamp to install them, instead of a hammer, hope that helps.

Did you glue them in?

[snail05 0]

No, I was gonna use silicon but decided against it. If I have remove them that's one good idea =)

[snail05 0]

I got some torx bits so ill try to get the stripped screw out today considering the weather. I guess I'll just get some silicone and put the t nuts in from the inside.