New FL guy

[ricksi30 923]

IF you are willing to put in the work.

[ssh 924]

IF you are willing to put in the work.

You calling me lazy, asshole!?!?!

Edited November 9, 2012 by stefanhinote

[ricksi30 923]

IF you are willing to put in the work.

You calling me lazy, asshole!?!?!

I would never say that

[sexterra 10]

Pretty funny stuff.

Let me bridge the gap.

An 18" subwoofer has a lot of cone area, so it produces a lot of output. In order for the front stage to be balanced with this output you need a lot of cone area--at least for the midbass - midrange region. The higher frequency range doesn't require much, so it's not an issue.

So basically you have a lot of cone area in the sub-bass region, and require a fair amount of cone area in the mid region to seek some balanced sound.

You aren't willing to fabricate your doors, so your severely limited to what the stock door panel can hold. This is where you compromise. No one is being an arseho to be an arseho.

Super-tweeters have crazy output for high frequency, but at the cost of bandwidth, and possibly sound quality. Your biggest issue or factor is the midbass - midrange, not high frequency.

Most component sets have mid drivers with a higher bandwidth to mate with their smaller tweeters, but they also more than likely sacrifice output for that bandwidth extension.

You can use some component set with a 6.5" speaker in the front (use an adapter from 6x8 to 6.5), it won't be balanced, but it might be enough for you.

Or go active, and if done right you'll be a lot closer to balanced.

For what it's worth I had an 18" ICON in a sealed enclosure, my front stage uses a 6.5"-7" driver for the mid region, and although it offers a lot more midbass output then most other setups the icon would still easily overwhelm it. So 99% of the time I had the icon turned down, so the overall sound was more balanced, and more enjoyable.

An answer that includes explanation of why certain things will not work, and how it applies to my situation! For that, I thank you. I was starting to lose hope.

Glad you appreciate the humor, figured that would be an appropriate way to express my frustration. I understand that people are trying to help, but I need help in a way that actually helps me, and is more constructive than "nothing will work".

Im going today to check out an 05 RE XXX 15" for $200 that looks like it might be a go. I should have it in a box for $300 or less, so a little more flexibility in budget. So hopefully that goes well.

Okay so basically my list of limitations is speakers will go in doors ( i will trim plastic and do minor fabrication to make them fit/ look good)

I want speakers in my front AND rear doors ( or above and behind the rear seats in boxes).

Id prefer to spend less $500 on making this happen ( $800 including new amp if needed)

What I listen to is mostly bass heavy electronic (sub and mid high and high focus), with some country and metal (dont mind turning down sub for these, thats why theres remote knobs right?)

My goal is to have a decent level of sound quality, and enough volume to hear them even with the bass output. Im not looking for competition level SQ (if you couldnt figure that out from lack of specificity, and budget). Lets focus more on practical and less on ideal.

So my question now becomes what kind of cone area do i need to accomplish this goal, and what are some products that might work?

[ricksi30 923]

The more you say the less I think that you really want true SQ. Just go to your local shop and demo some components. Put the ones that you already have in the rear if you must, and use the extra money on the front.

[sexterra 10]

The more you say the less I think that you really want true SQ. Just go to your local shop and demo some components. Put the ones that you already have in the rear if you must, and use the extra money on the front.

That would be accurate, i guess i shouldnt have included any notion of sound quality in this thread since its basically been the sole factor in eliminating any speaker ive considered and is a small consideration in an overall goal. I DO NOT WANT A PURE SQ SETUP.

I want speakers that will be loud enough to get over the 15/18 that I end up with and will sound pretty good (our definitions of good are probably very different. I though my type R's sounded "good" so probably take what you would consider sound quality ans scale that back about 5 notches)

SO what I'm looking for is something that will sound as good or better than my type R's and will be a lot louder (and wont blow from <85w like my type R's)

[ricksi30 923]

So basically you are a "if I can hear the music with the sub turned up I'm happy" kinda guy?

[jonbearsmt 919]

great now my head hurts... thanks.

[ssh 924]

The reason why some of us are leaning towards active isn't so much about SQ, but just opening the door to speakers with more "oomph" to get the front stage output closer to the sub-bass output.

Another thing that hasn't been addressed, and can make a very big difference is sound deadening. Aside from quieting the door panel so it doesn't rattle, you want the panel that the speaker is mounted to to be sealed as much as possible, otherwise it'll kill your midbass.

IE: http://blog.stefanhi...1-51-46_959.jpg

Notice the large opening to the right, and various holes. I covered those up with cld tiles, then applied a sheet of mlv over it: http://blog.stefanhi...2-47-48_674.jpg

So with some slight dremel work to the door, is 6.5" the largest speaker you can fit? Next, what about depth? Be sure to measure with window glass down. Any room for using spacers if depth becomes an issue? If so, how much?

Edited November 9, 2012 by stefanhinote

[Impious 1,476]

SO what I'm looking for is something that will sound as good or better than my type R's and will be a lot louder (and wont blow from <85w like my type R's)

One thing I haven't seen touched on is why that speaker blew. The reason it's important to investigate is that you can "upgrade" speakers all you want, but if the Type R blew because of a system setting issue (gain, crossover, EQ, etc) then the likelihood an "upgrade" will potentially suffer the same fate is very high.....which makes any money spent a potential waste.

[sexterra 10]

So basically you are a "if I can hear the music with the sub turned up I'm happy" kinda guy?

I mean i guess theres no sort of middleground? bc thats what id be going for. Im not asking for audiphile grade sound or even close. If it sounds as good as my Type R's then I'll be happy, i just want more volume.

The reason why some of us are leaning towards active isn't so much about SQ, but just opening the door to speakers with more "oomph" to get the front stage output closer to the sub-bass output.

Another thing that hasn't been addressed, and can make a very big difference is sound deadening. Aside from quieting the door panel so it doesn't rattle, you want the panel that the speaker is mounted to to be sealed as much as possible, otherwise it'll kill your midbass.

IE: http://blog.stefanhi...1-51-46_959.jpg

Notice the large opening to the right, and various holes. I covered those up with cld tiles, then applied a sheet of mlv over it: http://blog.stefanhi...2-47-48_674.jpg

So with some slight dremel work to the door, is 6.5" the largest speaker you can fit? Next, what about depth? Be sure to measure with window glass down. Any room for using spacers if depth becomes an issue? If so, how much?

OKay, what would some of those speakers be? Or what kind of specs should i be looking for from speakers to determine things such as its relative volume potential, quality of sound, whether it will produce mid-bass or not. etc.

I understand that deadening is important. I havent really budgeted for it now (full time student, shitty job and paying for tuition), but it will happen in the future. I.e when I can really pinpoint whats rattling and efectively apply it. I know for sure that my back hatch needs it now that my XXX and port are firing at it.

6x9 is the largest up front, with a 2.5 inch cutout in the dash for a tweeter (i wouldnt mind cutting into my door panel for a tweet tho) and Ive got a little over 3" without spacers and probably an inch of clearance in front (i wouldnt mind cutting out the factory grilles though). Rear doors, a 6.5 will fit, and ive got maybe a little under 3" in depth and I dont mind cutting the grilles. I can take better measurements when I have time to pop off my door panels sometime this week.

SO what I'm looking for is something that will sound as good or better than my type R's and will be a lot louder (and wont blow from <85w like my type R's)

One thing I haven't seen touched on is why that speaker blew. The reason it's important to investigate is that you can "upgrade" speakers all you want, but if the Type R blew because of a system setting issue (gain, crossover, EQ, etc) then the likelihood an "upgrade" will potentially suffer the same fate is very high.....which makes any money spent a potential waste.

The reason I had it checked, was that my amp would cut out so that audio was really really faint and then come back after 1 or 2 seconds. I was told by a local shop (Maximum Audio Video) that it was a speaker defect, and that i should warranty it (which i was dumb enough not to do).So they took the speaker out and it stopped cutting out. My door speakers and amp were professionally installed by the same shop, so I dont think it would be a wiring issue. I have my gains set realtively low, and my crossovers are set to 100Hz, and my eq is mainly dipped in the midrange.

For some reason, the problem has started again recently and happens randomly when I turn my amp up to over 20 (used to happen around 15 or 16 with my comps) so I'm really not sure what the problem might be.

One of my friends has the SMD distortion detector, and a crossover calibrator, so all of the gains and crosses will be set with those.

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

[Impious 1,476]

One of my friends has the SMD distortion detector, and a crossover calibrator, so all of the gains and crosses will be set with those.

Your friend is highly gullible and easily separated from his money.