Extreme Budget Build

[PHATBOi 38]

Amp is going into protect on low lows at full tilt. Pretty sure I have some voltage drop issues. 2 amps runnin off 1 run of 1/0, 1 Walmart Maxx series under the hood, and stock alt with no big 3, lol. Going to get an HO alt, do the big three, and tuck a second batt in the jack cubby.

[PHATBOi 38]

Playin some lows.

[porkchop 304]

I've got a 15" Xcon ported under the console in my ski boat. Just took some clever cutting :)/>

[mklett33 32]

NIce and simple, I love to see vans bumpin, haha

[eggyhustles 33]

No processing?

[PHATBOi 38]

No sir. Runnin Skar amps and mids now. SK1500.1D on the subs and an SK85.4 on 2 PAX6.5's and 2 DB Drive P5TW 8D tweets. Just threw the mids and tweets each on their own channel of the 85.4 all at 4 ohms. Got the tweets hp'd at 5K and the mids around 80. Sounds clean. Like havin seperate gain control between mids/highs.

[PHATBOi 38]

A lot has changed since I last updated this thread. 86'd the Skar mids. They sounded great but just weren't loud enough for me. I am used to the pro audio midrange sound and the Skars are more of a midbass speaker. Got my Audiopipe APMB6DC's back in and have the mids and tweets wired together and bridged on the SK85.4 at 8 ohms x 2 (or whatever the imp is with a 4 ohm tweet wired in with an 8 ohm mid, probably 3 ohms?) Sounds great and gets plenty loud now. Will be gettin a US Acoustics USX2080 soon for the tweets. It has a 4.5K hpf so I can get them off the stock caps which has them crossed at 10 or 12K or something crazy like that. 

 

Sold the SK1500.1D. It was nice but I needed the xtra money and I'm just the type of person that prefers to get loud with the least amount of money spent on equipment. Grabbed a VVME INNO-D1500 (AP15001D clone) to throw on the VVME subs for now. In the process of aquiring some double stack Fi Q motors I wll be building into 12's to replace the VVME subs in my box and adding a second INNO-D1500 to strap to the pair at 2 ohms. Figure around 2.2-2.4K clean.

 

VVME INNO-D1500 installed. Barely got a chance to set gains and filters before the ol' lady had to leave for work. Initial reaction: damn strong. Now I remember why I fucks with Audiopipe.

[Shogen 325]

looking good man!!!

[PHATBOi 38]

Thank you good sir.

[ImBob 2]

Nice! I like and can appreciate budget builds. I just got one of those VVME amps to throw on my cheap subs to replace an old A/B Cadence 600w. I like the amp so far. Definitely making more power now. It seems to have a slightly different frequency response than the Cadence.

 

Set the gains with a DMM for about 1200w max, but honestly haven't played at that level very much. I have dimming, so I'm a bit worried. I did the big 3, but i have an old battery and may need to go with a HO alternator.

 

Another good cheap sub suggestion is Tidal Audio. I have 2 of their 12's. They are Image Dynamics IDv2 rip offs (think I got that right). $80 a piece, they have to be one of the best bang for the buck subs. I've bought 4 over the last 3-4 years to go in different vehicles. I'll replace the two I run now when I upgrade, but I don't think I want to sell them lol. I actually wonder how they'd do for home audio...

[PHATBOi 38]

Thanks. I only have the Big 3 in 4 gage, oversized Maxx battery from Walmart upfront, 1 run of 1/0 to the back, and a 55ah PowerWare. No dimming and I don't drop below 12.5 full tilt. I would suggest adding a second battery in the back before droppin the money on a H/O alt.

[ImBob 2]

Thanks. I only have the Big 3 in 4 gage, oversized Maxx battery from Walmart upfront, 1 run of 1/0 to the back, and a 55ah PowerWare. No dimming and I don't drop below 12.5 full tilt. I would suggest adding a second battery in the back before droppin the money on a H/O alt.

 

How much was that battery in the back? I've heard people say you need to match your 2nd battery to your main battery if running them in parallel (which I think is what you are describing with the single run of 1/0 to the back). Not sure how true or accurate the matching bit is.

[PHATBOi 38]

Thanks. I only have the Big 3 in 4 gage, oversized Maxx battery from Walmart upfront, 1 run of 1/0 to the back, and a 55ah PowerWare. No dimming and I don't drop below 12.5 full tilt. I would suggest adding a second battery in the back before droppin the money on a H/O alt.

 

How much was that battery in the back? I've heard people say you need to match your 2nd battery to your main battery if running them in parallel (which I think is what you are describing with the single run of 1/0 to the back). Not sure how true or accurate the matching bit is.

It's a 55ah PowerWare. Get them from a place in Tampa called Square Deal Battery. They sell refurbs and B-Stock cheap with 3-6 month warranties. I've never had 1 issue with any battery bought from them. Got this one for $40 + $20 core charge I had to pay cause I didn't have a core to give. So $60. Have a Wlamart Maxx battery under the hood. I have always run my rear AGM's parallel with my front lead acid batteries and have never had an issue.