RLi 8s for the frontstage?

[Hitman 0]

Im "considering" getting my front doors redone via fiberglass and setting up a strong front stage. Comps up top, with some RLi 8s in a sealed atleast 0.4cu ft enclosure per door. Depending on the amp still havnt decided if im going to go with SVC of DVC as of yet.

Going to give them atleast 150rms per to work with, maybe even upward 300+ should my elec system support it. Upto what freq range would the 8s be able to go upto? I was thinking upto atleast 200hz, still open to debat on what to cross them at.

As for the comps, im leaning heavliy towards a set of rainbows...undecided which ones atm. From the looks of things is going to be atleas a 600+ rms front stage should things go as planned.

Main concern is the RLi 8s and what to cross them to since most dont use them in this type of application. Not even sure if it will work well upfront.

[ANeonRider 3]

Have a lot of depth availble in the doors? From what Mike has said, they are good to around 200Hz, but if you are using a set of comps, I wouldn't do much above 100, and let the comps do the rest.

[Hitman 0]

Have a lot of depth availble in the doors? From what Mike has said, they are good to around 200Hz, but if you are using a set of comps, I wouldn't do much above 100, and let the comps do the rest.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

About 4" from what I can tell before the glass gets touched. I know the 8s are about 6" deep but thats the reason im going to get it fiberglassed, and somewhat at an angle slightly tilted towards the dome light area. While im in the car it looks like there is a good 3.5-4.0" from were I rest my leg while driving so Im hoping raising it 2-3" wont anoy the hell out of me.

IF that can be done without the door hitting my legs, I just might try it out. I guess keeping it around 100hz should be fine, perhaps no more then say 120.

After my last setup, the area between 60hz and 150ish was lacking quite a bit. However 60 and below was quite nice, lol.

[Eldorado 0]

They are subwoofers, not midbass'

Put them in the proper application

Plus you are adding a good 20lbs to each door, they will be heavy

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

They are subwoofers, not midbass'

Put them in the proper application

Plus you are adding a good 20;bs to each door, they will be heavy

[Hayabusa 0]

Yes they are much heavier than they look lol... I'd rather run a good set of comps and run the 8s in the back to fill in for 6x9s if I just had to use them for anything but their intended purpose...

[Hitman 0]

They are subwoofers, not midbass'

Put them in the proper application

Plus you are adding a good 20lbs to each door, they will be heavy

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

This is true. This is also why I posted this here with a ? in the titile. Wasnt sure how good an idea it was, figured id gather opinions & take it from there.

Speaking of the weight, it was 1 thing I didnt really take into acount.

What can I say, lol when your right your right.

Guess its back to a 2way front stage. Should save quite a bit of hassle and cost so im not going to complain

Thanks all for your input.

[Eldorado 0]

Cool idea, just the wrong woofer IMO

[///M5 2,833]

Unless you had some real thick old Detroit steel. I could see that working real sweet in an old heavy muscle car, sure your 30lb doors would then be 60 but the hinges are made to take it and crossing over your mids at even 150hz allows you to run more specialized mids if they don't have to take over that 60-150 midbass range. Adding 20-30lbs of weight to a Japanese car door is just asking for it though (applies to any newer car too).

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

would be excellent for front stage sub, but too big for the doors

[Hitman 0]

Oh im sure it would have sounded great upfront but the weight issue is too great. Its an 2001 maxima. Not to mention once the front doors get modified there is no going back. I wouldnt mind now, but perhaps one day should I choose to sell, then I might.

Going over several options atm as well, likley im going to either figure out a setup using Seas 8s which is only a few lbs plus I doubt ill have to fiberglass anything to get those in there.

Either that or one of the higher ranked rainbow comp sets ( atleast the powerline CS series ) that can dip well below 60hz. That gap between 60 to 100 was very anoying. The bostons I had in there before didnt play midbass too well.

Im putting together 2-3 setups on paper for now, depending on how anoying it would be I might just go with 3-way. Maybe even go the active route, or just get anoyed as hell & keep it simple and slap in a nice 2way. Ill find out early next week.

[Eldorado 0]

Lol...maxima

A friend of mines maxima shakes all the doors with just 2 RL-p 12's ported.

And his trunk lid sounds like it wants to blow off

[Hitman 0]

Yeah I know the feeling. 1 b15 ported swelled my car up like you wouldnt belive. Some places were moving a good 2-3" I even managed to crack an area near the deck lid, close to the way back of the trunk opening. Ive taken quite of few pics of the entire sound deadner process...and the crack, lol

Ill eventually get the pics up.

The past few weeks ive slowly applied an extra 80 more sq ft of SS damp pro (had 50 ft in already), and still have about 4gallons of sludge left. The roof, floors, you name it im covering it.

[Eldorado 0]

The car is a rattle machine

And the time and money spent deadening it just isnt worth it IMO

[vladd 26]

also keep in mind that how close the weight is to the hinge matters a lot, if its close it might work, the farther back the more stress it will create. A well designed 2 door car will have strong hinges(cause people crawling out of the back seat lean on the door to get out).

i had considered this very idea but decided on just using a solid 8" midbass instead.

[Hitman 0]

The car is a rattle machine

And the time and money spent deadening it just isnt worth it IMO

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

True. Unfortunately its the only car I have atm so I dont have much of a choice but to make due with it. Needless to say the next daily driver car I get is going to have the sound sytem taken heavily into acount.

also keep in mind that how close the weight is to the hinge matters a lot, if its close it might work, the farther back the more stress it will create. A well designed 2 door car will have strong hinges(cause people crawling out of the back seat lean on the door to get out).

i had considered this very idea but decided on just using a solid 8" midbass instead.

As far as the distance from the door hindge goes, I was going to be as close as possible to the lower edges of the door. As said its a cool idea, and perhaps in the future ill reconsider, but definetly not on this car.

So far ive pretty much rounded it down to Rainbow powerline CS series, running off either a Arc 2300 SE or 4200 SE. Depends which will work better for the setup (most likley the 4200) A set of usher 9845s

For the sub a Arc 2300 SE and a set of Usher 9845 3" domes stuffing in the the kick area somehow, along with just the woofer from my bostons in the back doors for some mild rear fill powered by my old school JL 300.4 which will be hidden under one of the seats

Ill give it more thought tomorrow, I pretty much threw that setup ^ on paper last night at 3am so not much thought went into it.

Edited June 4, 2006 by Hitman