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The Big 3 Are: 1. negative battery wire to ground - just replace the negative batt. terminal and wire and ground it to the factory location 2. engine block to ground - replace the ground wire from the engine block to the chasie with a bigger wire (maybe 4 guage) 3. alternator to batt - add a fused wire from the postive post on you alternator (the one comming from the battery) to the postive terminal on your battery. DO NOT exchange wires just add a extra one. make sure it fused the same size as your factory fuse. hope thats helps Note on #2- Some cars have a batt-engine block connection stead of chassis to engine block...

I got my first BTL 18 about 5 months ago, fully loaded dual 2 ohm version. It was the fist 18 I'd purchased or even heard in person, so I was a bit skeptical because of the mixed things people say about larger drivers as far as quality go. The last two setups I had owned were a kicker L7 15 in 5cubes tuned around 32hz, and and alpine type-x 12 in 1.1cube tuned around 32hz. I had been trying to find a very loud woofer that still sounded half decent, and while the alpine sounded nice, and the kicker got loud, neither did both very well. The kicker was very loud though, so I was really trying to find something that could out-do it. When I started trying to find out about the Fi products, I was extremely surprised to find out that I, the lowly consumer, was able to talk to the men behind the product, and that was amazing to me. The customer support was great from day one, and the interaction with scott/nick/shawn on everything was so helpful, I knew I was in for something good. I built a box 8ft^3 tuned to 35hz for daily with about 115sqinch of port area, but tuned a little high so I could put up a bit better score. There was a double thickness of 3/4inch mdf for the baffle, and 3/4 for the other sides. I couldn't wait to put my Hifonics bxi2006d on it, run with 1/0stinger wire from the 3 batteries and 200amp alternator. I have an alpine 9831 head unit, and CDT components, all I needed was that sub to strengthen the low end. I noticed upon arrival that the packaging was very good, and even though the weight was somewhere near 70lbs everything was intact. The sub looked great, beefy in all aspects, and was huge to say the least! I put the sub in the box and put it in my 99 yukon with adrenaline pumping in anticipation. I kept the volume low, and put in some rock to see how it would handle the kick drums. Whoa, it was articulate and crisp, and sounded DEEEP. After playing with it a while, I put in some rap, Jeezy I believe, and was taken back at the output. A normal listening volume is between 5-7 notches, but I kept cranking the nob, and at a volume of 10 it passed the output of the alpine (when at full tilt), at 13-14 it passed the Kicker L715 (when at full tilt), and it just kept going. At a volume of 20, I could still not hear any distortion, and the volume was incredible. I cracked my drivers window open and felt the air gushing in, actually blowing my hair - which had never happened with my other subs. It sounded controlled and deep, unlike any sub I'd heard before. So much for the 'sloppiness' of larger woofers, this was clean and simply amazing in output. I stepped out of my yukon and looked at the flex of the body. The lock on my trailer hitch was jumping, and my rear doors were moving like they wanted to come open. Getting back in, the bass in Young Dro-Jackie Chan hit so hard it took your breath away, and the lows in hypnotize by Jeezy made the air move in and out of my lungs like nothing else. A few days later I went and got metered. I knew it was louder than the low 140s I was hitting with the l7, but not sure how much. I put in some test tones and went to work on it, finding the peak to be at 42hz. I hit 148 and change, and still 145 and change at 32-34hz. I built a new box a few days later, CRX style with 7.5cubes tuned to 35hz w/ 115 sqin of port. This time I hit over 149. Since then I've purchased a 2nd sub and amp to match, and hit ~149 at 32hz, and a little under 151 @ 42. It stays loud from the low lows up, instead of dropping off where many others do. Now about 3 months since I've had both going, they've had time to break in. The SPL is still rediculous, they pound all day without a problem. After breaking in some of the initial tightness of them is gone, but that can be expected. I would say the SQ is not quite that of an alpine type-x- but close, and MUCH louder than average. I have a 4kw+ amp on the way, and plan to get another to give them a grand total of 8000+ watts, so I will update when I get this done. Being that this is my daily driver I do not plan on tuning higher, but I am very very satisfied with the sq that this spl driver can maintain. I've had people with 'competition' setups get in my car and have a shocked look on their face. I've had people who brag to be hitting in the 160s with 6 12's get in my car, and jump back out saying how ungodly loud it sounds -especially on the lows. Overall they are the best subs I've ever owned, great all around. Hope this helps with someone when trying to find a great sub, for a great price, that really belts out the power and sounds good doing it.

I was going to say the same thing! If you have a Pioneer hu, you may have a groung problem with your rca's' I had the same problem! But the noise seems to go away after adding a new ground to EACH rca's of the hu. Good luck !

Considering the price, I'd agree completely. I was just hoping for an alternative as I don't like to recommend Dynamat products, but considering what you will get it is the right solution.

If your main goal is vibration damping in various areas in your vehicle, I think I would still stick with the Dynamat Extreme. It gives you the most square foot coverage for the money out of the listed options and is a high quality damper, so you're not really sacrificing anything.

Ive always just pulled the old carpet off. Pretty simple to me and usually only leaves the box a little hairy. I just spray some more 3m adhesive over it and lay new carpet down.

So for all you guys thinking about buying a Sundown...the time is now!!!

It wont hurt them in a good sealed box, but to get the most out of the BL's I would suggest to go with a ported box made out of wood.

Nobodies mentioned SSA yet.

I closed this thread. Glad to re-open it if you take the time to write it in a fashion that is legible. Adding question marks in the middle of run-on's does not make a paragraph. Please re-write your first post and I'll put it back in the thread and re-open it.

London Calling - The Clash

Im lost, what do you mean you want a sub that sounds clean. Have you tried a different box? Your box is too damn big, the biggest it should be is 3.25ft^3. Try a smaller box at the tuning, just my .02.

im gonna go out on a limb here and say that it maybe be your head unit.... change it out if you have another or even just pull a friends head unit and run RCAs from his deck in his car to yout amps in your car....or even use an IPOD... pioneers have a ground fuse that pops when crazy things happen in the signel line..... check it out.. i could be wrong but its a start. keep us posted.

Telarc digitals "Time Warp? and "Bacbusters" , Anything By dynamix 2 especially the color beats, Gangsta NIPs southpark psycho but you better have some serious subs and tuning going on...if you survive this!!! try Quadforce "bass from hell" and "feel the real bass" and "ultimate bass". Just dont be in the car when you do. lol You have been warned.

FAIL! and why so many ? marks.

first off i am not mister know it all so please bare with i do know a lot but will see . but any ways what is it with resonant tuning frequency? would it be better to tune low as possible for like a t line and get a higher score? unless your talking frequency length. the lower in the octave you got the hard the bass hits right ??? with in reason of course like the sub dropping off and just can't play well at 18 hz were it plays better at 47 Hz etc etc ... because the music energy is reaching the mic at it full potential of 47Hz if you tune to high the spl drops off again so you lose power in the spl right??? so why would you look for a resonant frequency like 18 hertz i thought was a resonant frequency because it resonates the body panels. which is not wanted any thing below 20 hertz really but is wanted because it hits the hardest hence the tuning of the subsonic filter right??? but the only problem i see is frequency length at 20 Hertz being to soft because the box dropped off kinda like a sealed in the graph on winisd were 40-50 hertz and above it is about base line like 1 w/ 1m of spl.and gradually drops off the lower it goes so 20 hertz is 12 db's down of the same sub in a ported box so if you lay the two over each other the ported and the sealed in winisd at 20 Hertz some subs are 12 db's different between the two ported versus sealed . but still frequency length is longest at 20 hertz but tends to drop off some times right because of the box ??? so if it's better to play low why are people looking for high frequency's??? if tuning low is best would this make a t-line best ??? i know t line will play lower in the octave such as 18 hertz and will out put a heck of a lot of db's then a ported for the same sub does. with in respect to that sub because certin sub play best in that certain box right??? kinda like putting a infinite baffle only sub in a ported box why do it ??? so why would you look for a higher resonant frequency is it because you are not reaching the mic??? then box is to far away but has to be behind the "b" pillar of the automobile right for most competitions so that would rule out car's for spl comps right if you wanted to hit a big numbers??? isn't this were planing comes in to effect ???? so why on one of my test tone disks booklets why does it say 67-200 hertz is the best for spl ???? i though 80 hertz and above was for mids/highs lol's i have never seen a sub play 67 and up but thats what the booklet say is for maxium spl is there a reson for this or is it just a typo????