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They are build in China to Jacob's specifications, just like the SAZ series is built in Korea to Jacob's specifications.

I'm confounded by that logic. Lets make a different example (same physics). Go outside and fill a sled with wood and try to push the sled, what happen's? Now pull on the same sled, what happens? I think it has NOTHING to do with different muscles, Just the fact that the force is being applied in the most effective place. That depends on where your pushing it form as well. Did you push from the top of the wood pile? From the base of the sled? Oh when you pulled it did you use a rope and lift up on the front? Or did you keep it level with ther ground? What id your 750 lb. grandma is in the sled too??

The meter has a capacitive display. IE there is a time constant or smoothing that is occurring. In other words, really fast voltage spikes in either direction it won't see. Volts are dropping, you just aren't measuring it. And yes, I am sure you are clipping your amp. No way that isn't at 1200w. On a real load with a distortion tester that amp will not produce its rated power. Set it at 1000w and see if your problem still exists. Conveniently for you, there is NO AUDIBLE difference between 1000w and 1200w anyways.

That will work, but sounds like it is on the small side. . . Funny how all of this calculating port size based on enclosure volume has become the "law". . . Enclosure size is NOT used to correctly calculate the required port area. Sorry. I wish people would stop making this assumption. Why did someone even calculate Duran's calculation to be 29 sqin per cube?? It means nothing. . . There are also more issues with port area than just port noise. The port will not work properly if there is too much compression. In a car I doubt you would ever notice it as long as you have a subsonic filter (at enough compression, the box looks like a leaky sealed box), since it is normally so loud it becomes less noticable. And what is wrong with designing a "daily" box correctly? What is your definition of "daily"?? Maybe you think SPL boxes need more port area? Ever think maybe that is so the port operates correctly??? Tuning frequency should be the only difference between "daily" and "SPL" if you want the box to actually operate as it is designed. . . I will admit, I know you can get away with less port area in a car system. . .I help people design boxes all the time with less than perfect port area when space is tight. It works, but don't jump on someone's response when they give what is actually the correct answer and then use false info to try to prove it wrong. . .

Heres the fuse holders I bought. STINGER ELECTRONICS BLOWOUT - eBay (item 280473693239 end time Mar-11-10 10:41:37 PST) I still need to order a waterproof one for the alt. wire. I think I am In love with my BTL. This Monster is amazing, Definetly a dr.jeckl/mr.hyde. So far everything I have listened to sounds amazing. The fronts sound better to me by the day, and MY brain definetly likes the front only sound more. I got the Sirius turned on also and it sound suprizingly amazing. Thanks again EVERYBODY for thier Interest and for your Knowledge, I LOVE SSA.

Why? Why "daily" systems should not count on impedance rise - SSA Car Audio Forum

because music is dynamic. if your only burping tones then you can count that. if on music do not.

What stealth said is correct, but NEVER count in impedance rise in a daily system.

even box specs raise tuning as well. long ports kill your low desired impedance. say you have a final ohm load of 1. itll never actually be 1. running at half ohms will be closer to 1 ohm then running at 1 ohm. common sense we all should know.

X2. Did you know impedance changes when power is applied? Like when the voice coil heats up? It's called impedance rise.

Lets do some math. You have a 160 amp alternator, So when you are driving down the road you alternator is producing 160 amps or 1600 watts (amps x 10=watts) at full atlernator RPM's. NOW your stereo ONLY draws the 2500 watts when you have the stereo turned ALL THE WAY UP. You battery is a storage tank for amps so we will use the D3400 for an example. The D3400 fully charged holds 4000 watts, Your car uses 750-1500 watts to operate, and the stereo is using 2500 at FULL VOLUME. So in our example Lets assume you are listening at FULL VOLUME driving down the highway and your alternator is producing its MAX watts of 1600 and the rest of the amperage demand is drawn from the D3400 battery. The battery is filling the gap so to speak. The problem NOW is the alternator is NOT charging the battery SO after you drain the battery below the remaining amps, you WILL have voltage drop. NOW lets say you are driving down the same highway and ONLY listening at 1/2 VOLUME, Your stereo is ONLY drawning 1250 watts plus what the car is using. NOW you see that at 1/2 volume you could listen ALL day and night without much voltage drop. But at FULL volume you are ONLY going to be able to listen without voltage For a limited amount of time BEFORE you must turn the stereo down and let the atlernator charge the battery back up. NOW the reason you see people with multible batterys is Because they want to have a longer time playing at FULL volume before they must turn the stereo down due to voltage drop OR they listen alot when they aren't driving the car to run the alternator, aka parked. THE reason COMPETITION vehichles have multible battery is because THEY are trying to produce a VERY LARGE AMP RESERVE to use ALL AT ONCE to produce a HIGH score.

Its because they are worth repairing while others are cheaper to just get a new one. If you are considering the MB Quart 1500D, then take a look at the Audiopipe AP1500D. $160 shipped. They do rated power.

If you are having trouble fitting the round ports in the box just go with your standard slot port. The only ports that are going to let you get away with less port area are the ones with flares on both sides (psp-inc). With those you can get away with about half the port area of a slot or round (non flared) port. Andrew

Holy crap there is some bad advice in this thread. There are VERY FEW songs that have 26-30Hz music. You reference "should be enough off 4kW". That statement alone tells me you are a BL buyer and not a Q buyer, misrepresenting the lows will only get you a sub that doesn't do what you want it to. And no one yet has asked how much space you have. That should be the FIRST thing anyone asks before answering any question about a sub. Generically speaking I'd take everything so far with a grain of salt, but DO NOT come to the conclusion the Q's are for your friend as it is definitely the wrong conclusion...unless you have left out some serious bit of information that I don't see shared so far. A quick re-read of the noob posting guidelines in my sig will surely help make your thread much better.

go with the bls...especially with that much power...the qs will blow, they arnt meant to b loud, they are meant for sound quality.

Why would the place its made make you not happy, the performance and only the performance should .

Man, didn't know that the area of a circle wasn't general knowledge.

no dont listen to him. if your going for daily with a little more output, you could go 35-38hz with 15-17 per and you should be fine. that should give you a good star off point. then you can redo the box to your liking. also you should figure out what freq your car likes, or simply do 2 boxes. 1 daily, 1 comp.

Where did you get that number? And OP, if you want to save space and be able to do daily and competition easier, Use aero ports. Get some 6" aeros and you can just switch them out when you go to competition with your car's peak tuning. You won't do as well if your peak no where near your daily tune.

Making that recommendation doesn't tell him the exact minimum amount of port area needed to avoid port noise. so you are telling me that he will have port noise with 15-17 per and it will be audible???? are you a dumbass, or just a dumbass. my recommendation is not telling him the minimum amount or port area needed without port noise, its giving him a proper starting point for a daily system with lots of output. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

no i think it would be better to listen to duran, 29sq inches of port per cube sounds spot on for a DAILY SYSTEM.

Model RMS Power @ 4 Ohms Stereo 12.5 volts THD 20-20KHZ Mono Rating 4 Ohms ** Maximum / Peak Power Damping Factor 4/2Ohm Channel Separation Slew Rate Volts/mSec Signal To Noise Ratio Required Fuse 2 Ohm St 4 Ohm Mono Capable Internally Bridgeable Frequency Response 2.2HV 12.5W x2 RMS 0.004% 600 Watts 1500 Watts 300/150 >72 dB >95 dB 40 Amps Yes Yes 5Hz-200kHz ** Mono Rating @ 4 Ohms is tested with the power supply taps moved to 2 Ohms setting where applicable. This the link from Linear power. just add a few mods to it and see what you come up with.

Get the 15" 3 subs will put a weird impedance on your amp, depending on whether you get 2ohm dvc or 4ohm, but either way you won't be able to run 1ohm,2ohm,4ohm,etc unless you want to run multiple amps, but for that amount of power I doubt you do...

my 6 1/2s and tweets have about 400 watts on them (extremely modified amplifier). I also have 5 batteries and a 200 amp alt. I wish you could hear my truck. It gets very loud. I run it in street beat classes to. ultimate autosound did a tahoe with 4 rd audio tweets in each a pillars, 6 1/2 in the kicks, 2 6 1/2 in the doors on a 4 channel rd audioamp. It was very loud. 4 18s in the rear. sorry bout that.