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Great choice on equipment! Should certainly pound!

may i ask how you have your woofer wired to a single bxi2608? a quad 2 ohm woofer can only be wired to 2 or .5 ohms... which a bxi2608 puts out its most power at 1 ohm nominal.

Spot on. The only caveat I'd add is that clipping will of course cause the energy to go up making it even easier to overheat. There is no reason you should be made at IA, but 100% at yourself. You did two things wrong here. First you didn't buy a sub meant for output, for some reason you misconceived the idea of SQ and applied your definition incorrectly to a driver. Second, you threw way too much power at them. This isn't the subs fault and had you actually truly been interested in fidelity you easily would have heard it struggling and automatically turned it down. The case is obviously you wanted more output and kept getting happy with the volume knob, add that the 6dB of gain you threw at it and I am surprised the 2nd one made it as long as it did.

Perhaps not if you do it perfect. Don't muck up the surround in the process, make sure you collect ALL the metal filings, and be really careful. Hell, what I am saying. I think its completely stupid. Just spend the .08 each and buy new bolts. Get threaded inserts instead of t-nuts as well while you are at it. Absolutely no need for anything so large. Sort of like running 8ga wire to your sub. Overkill for all the wrong reasons.

this is a group buy, a "lot" of them will be ordered at the same time very shortly. Denim will keep you guys updated on this as soon as he get a few seconds. Thanks again for your business!

Up at the top click the store button and look for it. Pricing info will be there. Please search, and once you have search asking a research question will yield you better answers.

OK, just a few things- You do realize you have a sub rated at 750 WRMS, right? This means it is NOT intended to dissipate more thermal heat than 750 WRMS will generate. You have an amplifier that will probably generate well over 750 WRMS, this is more than enough power to fry the voicecoil... This has nothing to do with clipping, pre-out levels or anything else, contrary to what people may have told you. The voicecoil is a piece of wire wrapped around a former. It doesn't care what type of signal it gets as long as it's thermal threshold isn't exceeded. When you ask it to dissipate more than 750 Watts of energy, it overheats and breaks down. Period. This is always the end users fault. What is this crap about Xmax? The damn driver has 18mm of linear throw one way, that is more than many of the "SPL" subs out there, this has nothing to due with you thermally destroying the driver. It has an underhung motor. This more than likely means it has a shorter coil, with less surface area and lower heat dissipation. Again, compounding your user error even further. The geometry leads to an extremely flat BL curve within the excursion limitations, this means low distortion, low enough that you may not hear the driver being destroyed by your overpowering. This is a driver specifically targeted for flat, linear response. This comes at the expense of power handling in your case. My suggestion is to sell the drivers after you have them reconed (you should pay for this) and buy a sub that has higher power handling due to the fact that you cannot tell when you exceed your drivers thermal limits. To be safe, you should buy a driver that has 2X the RMS rating as your amp.... This is not a general reccomendation, this is only for you.

Yeah funny though that no other sub but the ia had a problem. I understand you spent some money and just bought some drivers and they are already blown and that isn’t fun, but I usually don't take kind to people that blame our brand as the only brand at fault. Maybe if you broke one driver - then possibly it was our fault, but two of them seem almost impossible if you do the odds. Out of all the Flatlynes sold you just broke the first two. Something is going on and since I’ve never seen your car I have no idea what it is. Tell me what happened when the driver went bad? Did it smell? Mechanical noise? Maybe, we can resolve the problem at get you fixed up! Thanks, Nick

Long and very detailed, but worth a read for sure: My subjective review of the SSA Icon - SSA Car Audio Forum that was a good read..... thanks

I would run it all in stereo. That way you can still use fade and balance controls.

How much does the xcon 18 run for? Do I just need to call?

i dont believe for one second you went that fast in an evo lol, 170mph is about 275km/t. Here's a M5 E34 (1989–1995) that does 290 km/t / 180mph: Here's a evo doing 265 km/t / 165 mph: and here's a evo doing 270 km/t / 168 mph: That's original evos, if you tuned them a little bit they go easily above 300 km/t / 186 mph: until i am personally sitting in a stock evo going that fast, i will never believe it.