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Last night i got my xcon installed by ernie from ssa and dam thats gotta be the best woofer i have ever heard....

Yo

You guys are getting mixed up with terms, they will play the SAME frequencies, the only difference is the volume at which those frequencies are reproduced, that does not mean one size has "better low-end extension" than the other.

You know what is lame about this, you perpetuated a stupid myth because you didn't know how to check your stuff out. This is what is bad about internet forums...

well that is to cool! glad you joined in bro.... hey fellas.... don't let this guy get off the hook .....he has a killer looking blazer that he needs to drop dome pics of for us to see.... hey "J" , hope on youtube and look at a few vids of them 8"s ! they rock for sure! do me a favor.... post up a pic and the specs of your new enclosure.... it will help us determine what subs would be best in it. volume and tunning as well as port area..... pics will tell how well it is constructed and might bring additional tips for optimum performance! chop shop = FTW ....lol

Krypton, you do continue to prove one thing and that is that you have a comprehension problem. Everything else just makes the internet laugh

to SSA!!!! I'd say check the SA-8's as well. No offence to you, but who's the Hottie in your avatar??

welcome. i run 4 sa8s on a saz3k in my work truck

Sorry I missed this. The really important concept to grasp about any rattle is that it is always two or more hard objects moving and making intermittent contact. Seems obvious but keeping that in mind helps when trying to track them and that's really what you need to do to kill them. Vibration dampers, like CLD Tiles have been promoted as a cure for rattles. This approach may or may not work. It's always the indirect way to solve the problem. If it works, it works because you have successfully reduced the energy available to move the objects that are making contact. A more surefire solution is to identify the objects and either stop them from moving or put something soft between them to prevent contact. This can be a simple as tightening a bolt or screw, adding a blob of RTV silicone or lining one of the surfaces with foam. This all boils down to detective work. What is rattling? The best way to find out is to play music or test tones that cause it and then start feeling around with your hands. Does pressing on the trim panel stop it? Probably the trim panel rattling against the inner skin. A layer of CCF between the two will solve the problem. Can you narrow it down to two pieces of the trim panel? Maybe lock them down with some silicone. No luck? Try the latch handle and lock nob - could be a cable or actuator rod.

Totally different woofers, yes, you can make that argument(still, not very often). But within the same woofer line you'll be hard pressed to find any situation where the 8" version will have better low-end extension than the 15" version.

I have a low tolerance for ignorance. By chance were they SA15's or another 15? More cone area in a single 15 than three 8's, and the 15 has more excursion than an 8 as well. That's why I used the term "displacement". An SA15 has 48% more displacement when you consider cone area and excursion. Again, this is assuming you're running all of them at full stroke. The SA8's would have significantly more motor force and would be more efficient, as well as 50% more power. In theory, the power and efficiency make up for the displacement differences, making things nearly equal. Oh wait, that's what I said before..... You do know I had SA8's 4 months before they shipped and help develop them right? There is only 1 person that knows more about SA8's than me, and that's the person that designed it. It's not a matter of smaller sub vs bigger sub, it's THAT sub in particular when tuned below 35 hz loses output very quickly across the board. The difference between a 30 hz tune and 35 hz tune in the same box was 5 dB peaking within a few hz. When the Fs is 44 hz, you can't expect it to play 30 with exceptional output, even in a 30 hz tune. I'd hate to talk about something on the forum and actually have experience with it rather than regurgitating simulated graphs and what other people say that also have no experience....... My 10s have no problem performing well playing in the low 20s htz range with considerable amount of spl too ... To the op, i rather see 4 8s rather than 3 ... Just my suggestion please ... Your 10's aren't SA8's.

More cone area in a single 15 than three 8's, and the 15 has more excursion than an 8 as well. That's why I used the term "displacement". An SA15 has 48% more displacement when you consider cone area and excursion. Again, this is assuming you're running all of them at full stroke. The SA8's would have significantly more motor force and would be more efficient, as well as 50% more power. In theory, the power and efficiency make up for the displacement differences, making things nearly equal. Oh wait, that's what I said before..... You do know I had SA8's 4 months before they shipped and help develop them right? There is only 1 person that knows more about SA8's than me, and that's the person that designed it. It's not a matter of smaller sub vs bigger sub, it's THAT sub in particular when tuned below 35 hz loses output very quickly across the board. The difference between a 30 hz tune and 35 hz tune in the same box was 5 dB peaking within a few hz. When the Fs is 44 hz, you can't expect it to play 30 with exceptional output, even in a 30 hz tune. I'd hate to talk about something on the forum and actually have experience with it rather than regurgitating simulated graphs and what other people say that also have no experience.......

First thing I would do is decide on a different car. That is a girls car.

Dang. You're a angry fool

Cone area? More power to the 8's then the single fifteen, and to ibanender, you do know that the myth of bigger subs playing lower has been proven false?

lol@op

Don't forget Audioque 1200.1D Slick amp for the price

More cone area in a single 15 than three 8's, and the 15 has more excursion than an 8 as well. That's why I used the term "displacement". An SA15 has 48% more displacement when you consider cone area and excursion. Again, this is assuming you're running all of them at full stroke. The SA8's would have significantly more motor force and would be more efficient, as well as 50% more power. In theory, the power and efficiency make up for the displacement differences, making things nearly equal. Oh wait, that's what I said before..... You do know I had SA8's 4 months before they shipped and help develop them right? There is only 1 person that knows more about SA8's than me, and that's the person that designed it. It's not a matter of smaller sub vs bigger sub, it's THAT sub in particular when tuned below 35 hz loses output very quickly across the board. The difference between a 30 hz tune and 35 hz tune in the same box was 5 dB peaking within a few hz. When the Fs is 44 hz, you can't expect it to play 30 with exceptional output, even in a 30 hz tune. I'd hate to talk about something on the forum and actually have experience with it rather than regurgitating simulated graphs and what other people say that also have no experience....... My 10s have no problem performing well playing in the low 20s htz range with considerable amount of spl too ... To the op, i rather see 4 8s rather than 3 ... Just my suggestion please ...

I could EASILY build a vehicle in the mid 50's maybe even 60's for less then half that. :-/ My old Ram did a 147 at 28Hz with 2k and a shitty wall...... He won't listen. because I am listening to a wide group of people on a wide range of forums, not four know it alls. Out of every 10 people, I get one or two saying they can do it with two 10's and $2k the other 9 say its extremely difficult even with 20k and testing retesting so if youre tired of repeating yourself, please, just move on. I still say thank you, I know youre trying to help, I know youre blue in the face, but youre the minority making it sound easier than everyone else is saying. maybe 9 in 10 are stupid and you are the 1 in 10 that has it fugured out. why dont you cut me as a loss? Maybe you should at least analyze that 10/10 people that see your wasted efforts suggest going with subs that AREN'T for IB. but thats the point: I break all of their stupid rules, and they are too busy thinking they are always right and hatin cuz I proved them wrong dont tune below 30Hz for music, dont tune below 30Hz in a car, dont use IB drivers in an enclosure, sure as hell dont port them, sure as sure as sure as hell dont port IB drivers in a car below 30Hz for music, dont give IB drivers rated 550watts 3KW while ported below 30hz in a car for music, dont put your front stage in your roof, dont use expanding foam or duct tape, dont flip your kid off, dont get your alt tested, just dont cuz we say cant and if u do we will call u names and carry on and on and on like we know a thing or two

Real Parts (DC Power) > Fake Parts (others)

No, don't bother building the new box.