Welcome to the IHoP

[MuddinXJ 0]

and you do what exactly again?

Well the truck didn't do bad at all. Heat fully cranked with lights on and the system thumping it didn't move from its normal position while driving. Idling or in park was another story. Still dipped way way low.

[///M5 2,833]

Thought of today:

    My car was built in early 2001, close to march I believe. So, as we near it's 5th year of existence, I am troubled. Combining the fact that I live in Az, and I have a fairly powerful aftermarket stereo......

    Should I be worried that I still am using the original battery? My expirence in AZ is that they last about 2.5-3 years in newer cars. I realize that I may be jinxing myself but I am beyond that point, I expected it to die long ago.

that is surprising, my dad's truck just got a new battery for the first time in like 7 years, we were amazed the old one lasted that long

Mine car didn't start last night, so I checked the numbering on my battery and low and behold it was the original--from 1991!

[Tirefryr 1,742]

and you do what exactly again?

Well the truck didn't do bad at all. Heat fully cranked with lights on and the system thumping it didn't move from its normal position while driving. Idling or in park was another story. Still dipped way way low.

ME? I rebuild alts for a living. ALong with starters, water pumps, drive axles, smaller AC and DC motors and Idlers.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Thought of today:

    My car was built in early 2001, close to march I believe. So, as we near it's 5th year of existence, I am troubled. Combining the fact that I live in Az, and I have a fairly powerful aftermarket stereo......

    Should I be worried that I still am using the original battery? My expirence in AZ is that they last about 2.5-3 years in newer cars. I realize that I may be jinxing myself but I am beyond that point, I expected it to die long ago.

that is surprising, my dad's truck just got a new battery for the first time in like 7 years, we were amazed the old one lasted that long

Mine car didn't start last night, so I checked the numbering on my battery and low and behold it was the original--from 1991!

I'd buy another one! Hell, I'd kill to have a batt last half as long.

[MuddinXJ 0]

well thats cool TireFryr. Let me know when you would be up for putting the HD stuff in my alt

[Tirefryr 1,742]

It's a simple process if you have tools. The most necessary would be a T20 Torx driver and at LEAST a 100 watt soldering iron.

I can tell you everything you need to do right here.

[MuddinXJ 0]

Well bought one of these a while ago and have never installed cause wasn't sure what it would do.

Bought it off of ebay for like 15 bucks. Has 3 stages of performance. Good, Better, and Best.

[MuddinXJ 0]

well if you are open for tellin me how to do it then go for it. I'm up for always learning new stuff and I'm sure my dad can help me(ASE Master Tech).

Where do I buy the parts?

[Tirefryr 1,742]

You won't be able to get them without jumping through hoops and spending an arm and leg. I'll call my suppliers tomorrow and get you a quote, but when I ordered mine, it was something like $18. I know it was less than $20.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Give me a few minutes and I'll take some photos and write something up.

[MuddinXJ 0]

ALRIGHT!!!!

Anyone got any suggestions on the module? Should I just wait and save up for a programmer?

[MuddinXJ 0]

this outa be an interesting RAW

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Okay, first thing to do is take a photo of the alt so you know the proper "clocking." This is not NECESSAry, but a good habbit. In Your case, you're not going to remove the stator, so you don't really have to worry about it. I like to take a simpl punch and make a mark on either end frame, that way when re-assembling, I simply have to line the dots up and my clocking is done.

Here, you can see the dots.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Next is to remove the screws holding the regulator on. You'll have 4 outer screws, one screw that says, "ground here to test," and one screw which has a small plastic cover on it. You only need to remove the 4 outermost screws. A T-20 Torx bit or driver gets the job done. After the screws are out, simply lift the regulator out.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Notice mine only has 3 screws in it. This is for demonstration purposes only, so I half-assed it. Mine is already in pieces.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Next step is to remove the REAR end frame. This is the back of the alternator. To do this, simply take a hammer and solidly hit the 3 mounting ears you just removed the bolts from. Don't hit them too hard, but enough to remove the rear piece without damage. It may seem like it's not coming off, but it will. There is tension on it from the bearing slides.

Once it is removed, you'll have access to the rectifier and stator. There are 6 stator leads soldered to the rectifier. YOu'll have to heat these up and remove the solder by means of a de-soldering wick, pump, or the easy way. Take an air gun and blow the solder off as you heat it up. Now to remove the rectifier, you have to bend the little tabs back that are making contact with the stator leads. Once that is done, you can simply put a flathead screwdriver between the rectifer and the drive end frame and work your way around gently prying it up.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Now you're ready for re-assembly. The new rectifier simply drops in place, but it will have a different means of connection to the stator leads. Instead of the stupid little tabs, it will have some drop down leads that actually surround the wire. You will want to crimp these down on the stator leads and solder them on. Then you can replace the rear frame, and re-install the 3 screws.

[MuddinXJ 0]

sounds pretty straight forward

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Now, for the regulator, you want to take a paper clip and bend one end straight. Then push the brushes back into the holder and there will be a small hole on top of the regulator so you can push the clip through to hold the brushes in place while installing the regulator. Simply install in and replace the screws, remove the pin to release the brushes, and spind the alt to make sure it spins freely. Voila. You're done.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

The toughest part will be removing the rear end frame.

[Eldorado 0]

I saw an un marked crown dick today.

The frony windows were tinted to like 30%. Thats not even legal !

I also saw a teal one as well. Usually they only come in black and sliver.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

I think I'm out for the night. Peace!

[Eldorado 0]

My twitching is annoying the living fvck out of me. It woke me up at 5, 7, and 8am. It's been twitching all day now. I went to buy the tension relief pills Elias recommended and the fvcking store didn't have them. CHIT! FVCK! COCK! BALLS!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I cant help but laugh at that. Sucks man.

Did you ask when they would get any in ?

[Eldorado 0]

I took apart an alt once. I had everything all bolted up untill i realized that i had the bolt holes off by 2. So i had to take them all out and re do it.

I might need a H.O for the accord. I dont think it is going to like 800W.

I get dimmage even with my el cheapo sony 400w

[MuddinXJ 0]

most hondas only have a 90 amp alt at max and I think thats on the big v6s.