Final Got My system tuned

[anarchyaudio 0]

So I finally got my Time alignment and my 2 way active set up going. Man oh man what a difference in the sound now that its all dialed in. I have switched out my dual 5.25 for a single 6.5 in the doors with the Tweets in the A pillars. Decided to stay with Polk audio. Got the Momo 6.5 comp set. Sound excellent. My buddy and I worked out the details for the tuning Saturday night.

The Dodge dash and cab are so wide that it took some dancing with the settings to get a good center stage area.

Tweets are crossed over @ 3.5 khrz

Mids @ 63Hrz to 3.5 khrz

Subs @ 80 and below

We tested with the both the Meca Cheskiy CD and the Iasca SQ disc.

Along with some Dire Straights and Eagles live stuff.

All I can say is I am blown away. I have always wanted a good SQ set up. Before now been mostly a basshead. I am sure it could be fined tuned and tweeked for certain songs but for an overall well rounded tuning it's Rocking da truck!

I learned alot last night about t-aligment and crossover settings. not to mention setting up the EQ.

The clarion deck I am running is freaking great, I upgraded to it from a Kenwood Excelon. The clarion has all the options with active crossover and t-alignment

I would like to thanks Chris with Team Wall Street's Finest for helping me with all the modifcation and working with me on the design.

[///M5 2,833]

Now try underlapping and it will get way better.

Did you try different phasing between the front drivers? I have never owned a car where I had all the fronts in phase with each other, the stage always gets better when one is switched sometimes two depending on your mounting location and install.

[anarchyaudio 0]

Now try underlapping and it will get way better.

Did you try different phasing between the front drivers? I have never owned a car where I had all the fronts in phase with each other, the stage always gets better when one is switched sometimes two depending on your mounting location and install.

Ya its on my list of things to try out. I did alittle with phase but we did not really get into it. What exactly is underlapping?

[///M5 2,833]

As an example:

Tweets are crossed over @ 3.5 khrz

Mids @ 63Hrz to 3.2 khrz

Subs @ 50 and below

[anarchyaudio 0]

As an example:

Tweets are crossed over @ 3.5 khrz

Mids @ 63Hrz to 3.2 khrz

Subs @ 50 and below

Ok That I can handle, but what I cant get is how does it improve the sound seems like you are cutting out some of the frequency. Does this cut out some of the bleeding of the speaker ranges from the lower slope on the crossover everything is @ 12db will go to 18 but was advised to stick with 12

Just curious, What does it actually do for you, sound wise?

[lithium 358]

try 18 and see if works out for u better and deff try the under lapping aswell. the reason for the under lapping, i believe, is that the tweeter and woofer would be playing some of the same fequency around the xover point so u underlap to keep thing less peaky.

im sure m5 will clarify this...

[anarchyaudio 0]

So after I read the reply from M5 I had to run out and try it.

Well I like the mid range response so far but lowering my subs down seemed to lower my overall feel to the sound stage so I comp and bumped up to 60 and left the mid bass area @ 63 I know its not that much of a difference. I fill out the low end of the sound stage and gave it more spacial area in the sound. But I am interested in learning more from this. Now that I know alittle more about frequency ranges and how to adjust the sounds I cant tweak here and there and get a little more out of the speakers

[anarchyaudio 0]

try 18 and see if works out for u better and deff try the under lapping aswell. the reason for the under lapping, i believe, is that the tweeter and woofer would be playing some of the same fequency around the xover point so u underlap to keep thing less peaky.

im sure m5 will clarify this...

Ya cant wait to start tweaking some the freq and the crossover points just to see what I can get out of it

[///M5 2,833]

As an example:

Tweets are crossed over @ 3.5 khrz

Mids @ 63Hrz to 3.2 khrz

Subs @ 50 and below

Ok That I can handle, but what I cant get is how does it improve the sound seems like you are cutting out some of the frequency. Does this cut out some of the bleeding of the speaker ranges from the lower slope on the crossover everything is @ 12db will go to 18 but was advised to stick with 12

Just curious, What does it actually do for you, sound wise?

Actually the opposite, you are currently cutting out frequencies by promoting both constructive and destructive interference depending on the phase of the output. IE some notes are louder and some are softer since the speakers are playing the same frequencies creating anomalies in your response. Don't forget that crossovers are not brick walls. The trick is to get the rolloffs to line up. Unlike the previous poster, I would not recommend 18. Actually if possible I'd use 6db but then you are going to have to underlap even further to get the same result. It is NOT unusual for the best sound to come with a rather large difference underlapped. IE having your mid only play to 2000hz and your tweeter from 3500hz and up. Really it always sounds better to underlap than overlap.

Your problem with lowering the sub crossover is that your midbass can't keep up at 63hz. You need to treat your doors better and potentially get a beefier mid.

[bobonit 5]

As an example:

Actually the opposite, you are currently cutting out frequencies by promoting both constructive and destructive interference depending on the phase of the output. IE some notes are louder and some are softer since the speakers are playing the same frequencies creating anomalies in your response. Don't forget that crossovers are not brick walls. The trick is to get the rolloffs to line up. Unlike the previous poster, I would not recommend 18. Actually if possible I'd use 6db but then you are going to have to underlap even further to get the same result. It is NOT unusual for the best sound to come with a rather large difference underlapped. IE having your mid only play to 2000hz and your tweeter from 3500hz and up. Really it always sounds better to underlap than overlap.

Your problem with lowering the sub crossover is that your midbass can't keep up at 63hz. You need to treat your doors better and potentially get a beefier mid.

Good reading !!! Thats about the quickest most indepth discussion of setting up crossovers I've seen. This will definitely play a part when I get to tuning my system. Thanks.

[anarchyaudio 0]

As an example:

Tweets are crossed over @ 3.5 khrz

Mids @ 63Hrz to 3.2 khrz

Subs @ 50 and below

Ok That I can handle, but what I cant get is how does it improve the sound seems like you are cutting out some of the frequency. Does this cut out some of the bleeding of the speaker ranges from the lower slope on the crossover everything is @ 12db will go to 18 but was advised to stick with 12

Just curious, What does it actually do for you, sound wise?

Actually the opposite, you are currently cutting out frequencies by promoting both constructive and destructive interference depending on the phase of the output. IE some notes are louder and some are softer since the speakers are playing the same frequencies creating anomalies in your response. Don't forget that crossovers are not brick walls. The trick is to get the rolloffs to line up. Unlike the previous poster, I would not recommend 18. Actually if possible I'd use 6db but then you are going to have to underlap even further to get the same result. It is NOT unusual for the best sound to come with a rather large difference underlapped. IE having your mid only play to 2000hz and your tweeter from 3500hz and up. Really it always sounds better to underlap than overlap.

Your problem with lowering the sub crossover is that your midbass can't keep up at 63hz. You need to treat your doors better and potentially get a beefier mid.

Thanks M,

I have will play around with it, I have to stay with this set up for the time being, for the class I want to compete in, but once I get some experience under my belt will be switching out to an 8" mid bass and a 3 or 4 in mid and then the tweets. All active of course .

The funny thing about my past experience is that I have always ran a passive set up. My first active, it definiately more complicated to dial in but sound is so much better. Its amazing the difference just some simple adjustments make. Same system same set up Totally different sound. Thanks again for your input. I am sure I will be back to ask you some questions.

Could you possible recommend any reading material on accoustics and frequency settings

[lithium 358]

wow thats interesting i pretty much ruled out a 6db slope without giving it a shot. i like how i have it set up now but ill deff try some larger underlap.

[bassahaulic 155]

OMG this makes me scared to do active in my truck. =(

[lithium 358]

its not that hard to set up. even with some very rough xover setting my front stage sounded better active then with the passive cross over. (pg rsd component set)

[RidnClean 0]

mmm good read.

i'm active now but havent touched a single Xover on the deck yet.

[bassahaulic 155]

Is it possible to Active in the front and back of my truck? If that makes sense.

[anarchyaudio 0]

Is it possible to Active in the front and back of my truck? If that makes sense.

Are you talking about Active Mids and tweets in front and back or Frontstage and Subs

[bassahaulic 155]

Is it possible to Active in the front and back of my truck? If that makes sense.

Are you talking about Active Mids and tweets in front and back or Frontstage and Subs

Running Active Mids and Tweets in front and rear AND subs. lol

[anarchyaudio 0]

Is it possible to Active in the front and back of my truck? If that makes sense.

Are you talking about Active Mids and tweets in front and back or Frontstage and Subs

Running Active Mids and Tweets in front and rear AND subs. lol

yes you can but its really about what your after, if your wanting just a loud, vehicle then you can put an active in the back but it will really be a waste. Does nothing for the sound quality and you have to have a lot of extra equipment I.E another 4 channel amp at least and processing for it.

Easier to save the money from the rear stage and put into a better front stage equipment and install ( it makes all the difference) and sub set up than to worry with a rear set up.

With a great front stage and sub set up you will never miss what ever the rear speakers would have possibly contributed and would probably take away from the over all sound of the system. Just my 2 copper wires worth

[bassahaulic 155]

I will probably do an active front stage. Then do what I did for the last system. Lots o' 6x9"s in the rear.

[anarchyaudio 0]

I will probably do an active front stage. Then do what I did for the last system. Lots o' 6x9"s in the rear.

Whatever blows your hair back. hehehe

[bassahaulic 155]

I will probably do an active front stage. Then do what I did for the last system. Lots o' 6x9"s in the rear.

Whatever blows your hair back. hehehe

I must say I enjoyed it

I will probably have all that, and turn it all off for when I just wanna ride to some good SQ.

[anarchyaudio 0]

How do you like those subs?

[bassahaulic 155]

When I had them they were on running on half RMS power. They were ok, sounded bad, got loud.

That is my old system, it's gone now.

[///M5 2,833]

Is it possible to Active in the front and back of my truck? If that makes sense.

It doesn't make sense. Rears are a complete waste both for output and SQ. More drivers is never the cure, the right drivers in the right installation is.