Doctor Q's Box Build Specs

[shizzzon 461]

Hey, i'm gonna spill out all kinds of info so make sure you understand it, hehe.

I'm currently workin on your design right now, you will be using external dimensions of 42" wide x 17" tall x 22" deep.

This IS what i am going with.

You will be using a double baffle on this box. Box material will be constructed out of 0.75" material.

I need to know what bracing material you will be using, Wooden dowels or 2x4s?

Internal dimensions- 40.5" wide x 15.5" tall x 19.75" deep.

Your speaker Outer Diameter is 10.91", i went ahead and rounded up to 11" for a hair more headroom for accidental measurement inaccuracy.

Your Baffle design-

The border around this baffle is showing the thickness of the wood. I wanted to show you that ALL the subs will have 1 point that will be screwing into an adjacent piece to hold the subs to the baffle. This is not a problem, i just wanted to let you know this. I made sure that no subs would need to be screwed through the floor.

Here are the CENTER points for which the subs will be mounted. Do NOT shift these points or your subs will not fit. To make sure they will fit before cutting out the holes, take a compass and put it on the center point and draw an 11" diameter circle(5.5" radius) and NO circle should overlap another. They will come close but will not overlap.

These measurements are being measured from LEFT to RIGHT, Bottom to TOP-

Sub #1- 5 17\32" x 6 9\32"

Sub #2- 15 11\32" x 11 7\16"

Sub #3- 26 3\4" x 11 7\16"

Sub #4 - 36 15\32" x 6 9\32"

Those are your center point locations for drilling\cutting your mounting hole.

I will now be working on your port and Bracing design.

PLEASE tell me what material you will be using for bracing so i can get this done tonight.

[Doctor Q 12]

Hey, i'm gonna spill out all kinds of info so make sure you understand it, hehe.

I'm currently workin on your design right now, you will be using external dimensions of 42" wide x 17" tall x 22" deep.

This IS what i am going with.

You will be using a double baffle on this box. Box material will be constructed out of 0.75" material.

I need to know what bracing material you will be using, Wooden dowels or 2x4s?

Internal dimensions- 40.5" wide x 15.5" tall x 19.75" deep.

Your speaker Outer Diameter is 10.91", i went ahead and rounded up to 11" for a hair more headroom for accidental measurement inaccuracy.

Your Baffle design-

The border around this baffle is showing the thickness of the wood. I wanted to show you that ALL the subs will have 1 point that will be screwing into an adjacent piece to hold the subs to the baffle. This is not a problem, i just wanted to let you know this. I made sure that no subs would need to be screwed through the floor.

Here are the CENTER points for which the subs will be mounted. Do NOT shift these points or your subs will not fit. To make sure they will fit before cutting out the holes, take a compass and put it on the center point and draw an 11" diameter circle(5.5" radius) and NO circle should overlap another. They will come close but will not overlap.

These measurements are being measured from LEFT to RIGHT, Bottom to TOP-

Sub #1- 5 17\32" x 6 9\32"

Sub #2- 15 11\32" x 11 7\16"

Sub #3- 26 3\4" x 11 7\16"

Sub #4 - 36 15\32" x 6 9\32"

Those are your center point locations for drilling\cutting your mounting hole.

I will now be working on your port and Bracing design.

PLEASE tell me what material you will be using for bracing so i can get this done tonight.

i can use either for support. whatever you think works best, i can do. im guessing 2x4s would provide more support but idk if it would affect sound or anything. im just getting into car audio, but you know your shit so whatever you would do if it were your box.

[shizzzon 461]

lol, if it were mine, i'd be spending close to $200 on building this sucker with just mdf and bracing but i like overkill because i compete.

Let's say 2x4s since i dont know the size of dowels off the top of my head.

Ok thanks, let me get the rest of the design.

Oh, go ahead and order those subs anytime now, you have the proper room for them,

Minimum is 0.6 ported

Optimal is 1.1 ported

Maximum is 1.66 ported

This setup will allow each sub to see approx 1.3-1.5, i'm not done designing it yet so u are well within range.

[shizzzon 461]

OK, you will have approximately 5.75 cubes NET after every displacement imaginable.

Port should be tuned to 33hz but may fluctuate between 32-34.5hz depending on if you change the amount of bracing or the material used.

Port will be the following-

This is INTERNAL dimensions - 12" wide x 4.25" tall x 15.5" deep. The actual port is 17" deep but you account for 1.5" of that as being the double baffle, you just add 15.5" behind the double baffle for a total of 17".

PORT location OPENING measured from LEFT to RIGHT, BOTTOM to TOP- 15" from the left to 27" from the left standing 4.25" off the floor.

Here is a pic of it showing that the port length added inside the box will not interfere with screwing any subs into place-

I will be working on showing where the bracing will be going tomorrow and thursday then i'll have some 3D pics of that for you.

So, you will be built to 5.75 cubes NET tuned to ~33hz with a port velocity less than 10% speed of sound for your amp's wattage range.

At this tuning level, with the exception of your car's peak frequency, your response graph is almost completely flat so this will not only get loud on the lower end but will also stay smooth while enjoying other music as well.

[Doctor Q 12]

lol, if it were mine, i'd be spending close to $200 on building this sucker with just mdf and bracing but i like overkill because i compete.

Let's say 2x4s since i dont know the size of dowels off the top of my head.

Ok thanks, let me get the rest of the design.

Oh, go ahead and order those subs anytime now, you have the proper room for them,

Minimum is 0.6 ported

Optimal is 1.1 ported

Maximum is 1.66 ported

This setup will allow each sub to see approx 1.3-1.5, i'm not done designing it yet so u are well within range.

what do you think about 4 10" Dcons??? would the increase in output be worth the extra $300 and which sub hits lower.

[shizzzon 461]

The Dcons would definitely hit lower, that's for sure.

If you want those instead, i need to know so i can alter the design specs.

The sub placement center points would remain the same, i would just need to alter the port design.

[Doctor Q 12]

The Dcons would definitely hit lower, that's for sure.

If you want those instead, i need to know so i can alter the design specs.

The sub placement center points would remain the same, i would just need to alter the port design.

go with dcons if it will be louder... and also i love low freq so thats a plus... looks like ill be having to work some more and get some cash haha. but yes go with dcons for sure if its louder.

So im going to order 4 10" Dcons Dual 2 and one Sundown 1000D after i hear back from you.

edit: plus it cant hurt to support the guys on here

Edited July 22, 2009 by Doctor Q

[shizzzon 461]

ok, sounds good, i'll finish the port design tomorrow and try to get the bracing design done asap.

[Doctor Q 12]

ok, sounds good, i'll finish the port design tomorrow and try to get the bracing design done asap.

thanks so much. tomrw i wont be able to get on till night but maybe around lunch ill be on but ill just respond next time i hear back. this is helping so much.

[KU40 173]

Don't use 2x4s in a ported box. They cause air turbulence inside.

[shizzzon 461]

u gonna have to change amps otherwise you are gonna be starving those DCons...

The DCons are Dual 4 ohms so you need an amp that does it's best at 2ohms.

I picked 2 amps for ya.

A 1200w Kenwood amp - Kenwood 9104D

A 1000w Alpine amp - Alpine MRP-M1000

[shizzzon 461]

i was doin some lookin and it looks like the box design will remain exactly the same!

The Dcons have twice the displacement but if you replace the 2x4s with wooden dowels it will balance out the displacement perfectly.

I will now start the design process so u can see what it will look like.

[shizzzon 461]

OK, design is done.

Here is the front baffle-

The port placement is as follows again measured from LEFT to RIGHT, BOTTOM to TOP-

Port cut out area- 15" from left at 0.75" high(due to sub floor) to 27" from the left at 0.75" high. Port cut out area height is 4.25" high from sub floor. Port area = 12" x 4.25" = 51sqin. Perfectly fine for this install.

Port length is to be added behind the double baffle 15.5" long.

Add length inside at these measurements-

from the left, 14.25" to 15" is the left wall running back. 27" to 27.75" is the right wall running back.

The top wall of the port which is 0.75" thick is running on top of the 2 side walls at 14.25" to 27.75" back 15.5" just like the 2 side walls.

those smaller circles are the wooden dowel bracing. Specific points aren't necessary, just make sure you put the top on last so u can get all your bracing done.

Here is a pic of the bracing-

Again, precise bracing points aren't necessary, just make sure none of them run into each other! This pic is showing using 2" diameter wooden dowels.

Your box will be tuned to 33hz at 5.75 cubes NET. I know SSA recommends optimally at 5.0 NET for 4 subs but you will be fine with this setup.

A look over-

5.75 NET, port area 12 x 4.25, 15.5" long internally tuned to 33hz.

hope u build it, you will like it.

[slim2fattycake 85]

Good luck. That looks awesome though. It should sound loud.

[Doctor Q 12]

OK, design is done.

Here is the front baffle-

The port placement is as follows again measured from LEFT to RIGHT, BOTTOM to TOP-

Port cut out area- 15" from left at 0.75" high(due to sub floor) to 27" from the left at 0.75" high. Port cut out area height is 4.25" high from sub floor. Port area = 12" x 4.25" = 51sqin. Perfectly fine for this install.

Port length is to be added behind the double baffle 15.5" long.

Add length inside at these measurements-

from the left, 14.25" to 15" is the left wall running back. 27" to 27.75" is the right wall running back.

The top wall of the port which is 0.75" thick is running on top of the 2 side walls at 14.25" to 27.75" back 15.5" just like the 2 side walls.

those smaller circles are the wooden dowel bracing. Specific points aren't necessary, just make sure you put the top on last so u can get all your bracing done.

Here is a pic of the bracing-

Again, precise bracing points aren't necessary, just make sure none of them run into each other! This pic is showing using 2" diameter wooden dowels.

Your box will be tuned to 33hz at 5.75 cubes NET. I know SSA recommends optimally at 5.0 NET for 4 subs but you will be fine with this setup.

A look over-

5.75 NET, port area 12 x 4.25, 15.5" long internally tuned to 33hz.

hope u build it, you will like it.

absolutely LOVE the design. this will help me immensely, however there is one issue... i already ordered the Sundown 1000D.

[sadistic 13]

u gonna have to change amps otherwise you are gonna be starving those DCons...

The DCons are Dual 4 ohms so you need an amp that does it's best at 2ohms.

I picked 2 amps for ya.

A 1200w Kenwood amp - Kenwood 9104D

A 1000w Alpine amp - Alpine MRP-M1000

why would it starve the subs of power ??? i think it set up perfectly the way he has it?? this is why any time you put a sub in series you give a little over half power or you will fry coils i would rather see it in parallel but has to many subs and one amp. just remember the term American wire gauge standard and ul listed you exceed the awg standard for power on a conductor it does not get UL listed because of the potential for fire in other words burned coils. any time you put one wire or coil in series with another you have to use the smallest awg used for the power calculation. so if there 300 watts and d4's and if you series each sub to bring them down to 2 ohms they should only handle a true 600 for all. so if i am wrong please explain it is the only way some one can learn why he wrong.

[shizzzon 461]

i dont really understand what u were asking but the sundown amp is rated at 1000w @1ohm, probably 500w at 2 ohm dont know for sure.

It'd be stupid to spend ~$300 for 500w of power knowing the amp wouldn't match his setup.

SSA is customizing his Dcon order so it matches the sundown amp anyway so the problem is solved.

[sadistic 13]

i dont really understand what u were asking but the sundown amp is rated at 1000w @1ohm, probably 500w at 2 ohm dont know for sure.

It'd be stupid to spend ~$300 for 500w of power knowing the amp wouldn't match his setup.

SSA is customizing his Dcon order so it matches the sundown amp anyway so the problem is solved.

your right. why bother.

[Doctor Q 12]

i dont really understand what u were asking but the sundown amp is rated at 1000w @1ohm, probably 500w at 2 ohm dont know for sure.

It'd be stupid to spend ~$300 for 500w of power knowing the amp wouldn't match his setup.

SSA is customizing his Dcon order so it matches the sundown amp anyway so the problem is solved.

yupp i was going to put that but i didnt know if they wanted that out there but yeah they are making it so that the sundown will work and ill get all 1000+ watts. So now i got the subs/amp on the way and box design so once i gt the subs ill be working on it.

thanks so much for everyones advice. im really eager and optimistic about this build.

thanks guys.

[KU40 173]

u gonna have to change amps otherwise you are gonna be starving those DCons...

The DCons are Dual 4 ohms so you need an amp that does it's best at 2ohms.

I picked 2 amps for ya.

A 1200w Kenwood amp - Kenwood 9104D

A 1000w Alpine amp - Alpine MRP-M1000

why would it starve the subs of power ??? i think it set up perfectly the way he has it?? this is why any time you put a sub in series you give a little over half power or you will fry coils i would rather see it in parallel but has to many subs and one amp. just remember the term American wire gauge standard and ul listed you exceed the awg standard for power on a conductor it does not get UL listed because of the potential for fire in other words burned coils. any time you put one wire or coil in series with another you have to use the smallest awg used for the power calculation. so if there 300 watts and d4's and if you series each sub to bring them down to 2 ohms they should only handle a true 600 for all. so if i am wrong please explain it is the only way some one can learn why he wrong.

Where did you hear this? If a sub's RMS is 300 watts, it handles 300 watts whether in series or parallel. It doesn't matter.

If he wires dual 4 ohm coils in series for 8 ohm load, then parallel wires all four for a 2 ohm load, the four subs will still handle 1200 watts total.

If he parallel wires each voice coil for a 2 ohm load, then series wires each sub for a total 8 ohm load, the subs will handle 1200 watts total.

If he parallel wires both voice coils on each sub and all subs also, for a .5 ohm load, it will handle 1200 watts total.

If he series wires each coil on each sub and each sub also in series for a 32 ohm load, it will handle 1200 watts total.

Cooling of the voice coils is first initiated by the size of the coil itself. Since this never changes no matter how it is wired (still have the same size coil and length overall), the power handling stays the same.

[jcarter1885 995]

u gonna have to change amps otherwise you are gonna be starving those DCons...

The DCons are Dual 4 ohms so you need an amp that does it's best at 2ohms.

I picked 2 amps for ya.

A 1200w Kenwood amp - Kenwood 9104D

A 1000w Alpine amp - Alpine MRP-M1000

why would it starve the subs of power ??? i think it set up perfectly the way he has it?? this is why any time you put a sub in series you give a little over half power or you will fry coils i would rather see it in parallel but has to many subs and one amp. just remember the term American wire gauge standard and ul listed you exceed the awg standard for power on a conductor it does not get UL listed because of the potential for fire in other words burned coils. any time you put one wire or coil in series with another you have to use the smallest awg used for the power calculation. so if there 300 watts and d4's and if you series each sub to bring them down to 2 ohms they should only handle a true 600 for all. so if i am wrong please explain it is the only way some one can learn why he wrong.

Where did you hear this? If a sub's RMS is 300 watts, it handles 300 watts whether in series or parallel. It doesn't matter.

If he wires dual 4 ohm coils in series for 8 ohm load, then parallel wires all four for a 2 ohm load, the four subs will still handle 1200 watts total.

If he parallel wires each voice coil for a 2 ohm load, then series wires each sub for a total 8 ohm load, the subs will handle 1200 watts total.

If he parallel wires both voice coils on each sub and all subs also, for a .5 ohm load, it will handle 1200 watts total.

If he series wires each coil on each sub and each sub also in series for a 32 ohm load, it will handle 1200 watts total.

Cooling of the voice coils is first initiated by the size of the coil itself. Since this never changes no matter how it is wired (still have the same size coil and length overall), the power handling stays the same.

very well put, I thought everyone knew that the ohm load was just impedence matching on the amp(nothing to do with the power that sub can handle). the only reason why a sub(dual 2 ohms) would see more power @ 1ohm than 4 ohms is because the amps power handling is different at each ohm load(unlike jl audio /1 amplifiers).

[Doctor Q 12]

well today sucked... my subs were supposed to come tomorrow but now i have to wait until the 10th. I'm going crazy without bass!!!!!!!!!!!

[Doctor Q 12]

everything is almost done. the box isnt gunna be as big as i wanted because there was no way to fit it in the trunk. so instead of 5.75 after disp, itll only be 4 which i know is on the small side but my only options are to do 3 subs with max air space or 4 subs with 1 cu ft each, which it might be a little more than 1 actually.

it should be done for sure by friday and ill have pics up. maybe a video shortly there after.