Converting Vehicle

[Chevy350TPI 12]

The Mazda gets driven 10 minutes a day - five minutes to location, 5 minutes back home. There's 113, 000 km's on it ... and it's a 1992 - so we are looking at roughly 8700km's / year (last few years have been only 5000km's or so). It's only driven in the city, and like I said, for only 10 minutes a day. It only does the speed limit back and forth, so 60 km/h.

So it barely gets used, right?

Come September, it'll go from 10 minutes a day, to almost an hour a day @ 90-100 km/h speeds. 30 km's each way, for a total of around 60 km's every day. 50 extra km's per day than what it does now. Total mileage per year will pretty much double.

So I'm wondering, in August, is there anything special I need to look into doing? I change the oil, lube the chassis, typical needs every 3500-4500km's or so like your typical family car. I'm basically asking if it's worth doing a complete system flush; changing the plugs; etc or just go ahead with the regular oil change, etc.

Something in my head says that I'll be fine ... something else says do a complete overhaul of things that can be replaced during tune ups.

Aaron, Ryan, Nick ... need your thoughts

[TLM 1]

wtf is a km? im an american

lol jk but i had to say it, but as for your question i have no idea sorry

[Chevy350TPI 12]

Yeah yeah, I knew I would hear about not converting them to miles for you guys

[Tirefryr 1,742]

How does it run now? I am pretty anal on vehicle maintenance, so you may not like to hear my opinions. I have friends who have vehicles for years and literally done nothing more than add gas and go. My best friend once had a winter beater that he drove for 6 years and NEVER changed the oil in. I don't know how that car ran, but it was a champ.

Anyways, when and what was done on your last tuneup? I'd do the plugs and wires. Ignition wires tend to start breaking down after 10Kmiles. Most people don't know or realize this, but they notice huge performance increase and mileage simply by replacing the wires every year. It's cheap insurance IMO.

Plugs, well, if you go the Platinum route, you can pretty much go for years without changing them. IF the vehicle has blow-by or is burning/using oil, I'd check the plugs every couple weeks. If they get fouled, you run the risk of having a misfire, or none at all. Not to mention, a fouled plug wil exhibit a very weak spark. If you use copper plugs, change them every year. No way around this. They degrade quickly. I change my plugs in my Cobra with every oil changed which is why I stick with Copper plugs. They are the best for spark and conductivity, but for durability, they suck. Don't get caught up in the hype on Platinum either. The ONLY advantage they have over any other plug is durability. All the vehicle nowadays run them simply for this reason (the 100,000 mile tuneups).

CHECK YOUR AIR FILTER REGULARLY. The most common overlooked item on a vehicle. Air filters can and will get clogged to the point where they will not allow any air to pass through. Simple fact. Just check it and replace when needed.

Oil, user preferences really.

I NEVER do a coolant flush. I drain the block and radiator every year but NEVER do a flush. You WILL break stuff loose that may end up in the engine. You will NEVER get all the sutff out. I suggest taking it to a shop that has a vacuum injection coolant machine. This will put a vacuum on the system to ensure there are no air pockets trapped anywhere which can wreak havoc on your engine. IF this is not feasible, follow the manufacuter's recommendation. Be careful as most newer vehicles require a special antifreeze that cannot be mixed with conventional coolant. Also, most vehicles require a special filling procedure. DO your research here. It is important.

All fluids should be checked normally. Power steering and brake fluids are commonly overlooked as well. Brake fluid especially should be checked and replaced often. The braking system is subjected to extreme heat and pressures and bad fluid will cause your brakes to fail. Again, take it to a shop for this, as most vehicles now have ABS and will require a computer to bleed the ABS pump. This is not always necessary, but is for most. IF you're not mechanical/lack the proper tools, take it somewhere.

Check all seals!

HEll, I'm done, I let the others pick up from here.

[Chevy350TPI 12]

How does it run now?  I am pretty anal on vehicle maintenance, so you may not like to hear my opinions.  I have friends who have vehicles for years and literally done nothing more than add gas and go.  My best friend once had a winter beater that he drove for 6 years and NEVER changed the oil in.  I don't know how that car ran, but it was a champ.

It runs well for being 13 years old. No major problems (knock on wood). Actually, no problems that I'm aware of. It's been a great car.

Anyways, when and what was done on your last tuneup?  I'd do the plugs and wires.  Ignition wires tend to start breaking down after 10Kmiles.  Most people don't know or realize this, but they notice  huge performance increase and mileage simply by replacing the wires every year.  It's cheap insurance IMO.

I'll definitely have to do the plugs and wires, then. Seems like cheap insurance. I didn't do the last tuneup ... so looking back at my receipts, I see a "change oil, filter, lube chassis." I have all of the original receipts dating back to 1992 when the vehicle was purchased ... and I don't see anything more than the above on all of them - with the exception of two batteries, front brake pads ('96), [clean+dechoke throttle body, check timing, replace spark plugs, fuel filter, air fliter, replace and bleed brake fluid, change engine oil and filter, tranny fluid, power steering fluid, change engine coolant, and lube everything] = ('95), rebuild front brake rotors and calipers, rear brake cable ('98).

Plugs, well, if you go the Platinum route, you can pretty much go for years without changing them.  IF the vehicle has blow-by or is burning/using oil, I'd check the plugs every couple weeks.  If they get fouled, you run the risk of having a misfire, or none at all.  Not to mention, a fouled plug wil exhibit a very weak spark.  If you use copper plugs, change them every year.  No way around this.  They degrade quickly.  I change my plugs in my Cobra with every oil changed which is why I stick with Copper plugs.  They are the best for spark and conductivity, but for durability, they suck.    Don't get caught up in the hype on Platinum either.  The ONLY advantage they have over any other plug is durability.  All the vehicle nowadays run them simply for this reason (the 100,000 mile tuneups).

I think, ultimately, the best choice for me would be the Platinum ones ... based on what you told me.

CHECK YOUR AIR FILTER REGULARLY.  The most common overlooked item on a vehicle.  Air filters can and will get clogged to the point where they will not allow any air to pass through.  Simple fact.  Just check it and replace when needed.

I NEVER do a coolant flush.  I drain the block and radiator every year but NEVER do a flush.  You WILL break stuff loose that may end up in the engine.  You will NEVER get all the sutff out.  I suggest taking it to a shop that has a vacuum injection coolant machine.  This will put a vacuum on the system to ensure there are no air pockets trapped anywhere which can wreak havoc on your engine.  IF this is not feasible, follow the manufacuter's recommendation.  Be careful as most newer vehicles require a special antifreeze that cannot be mixed with conventional coolant.  Also, most vehicles require a special filling procedure.  DO your research here.  It is important.

I'll let the dealership take care of this one.

All fluids should be checked normally.  Power steering and brake fluids are commonly overlooked as well.  Brake fluid especially should be checked and replaced often.  The braking system is subjected to extreme heat and pressures and bad fluid will cause your brakes to fail.  Again, take it to a shop for this, as most vehicles now have ABS and will require a computer to bleed the ABS pump.  This is not always necessary, but is for most.  IF you're not mechanical/lack the proper tools, take it somewhere.

Of course. I'll have to get a list of everything I need and take it to the dealership. I'm not going to fiddle and screw around with things if I can't do the entire thing myself.

Appreciate the reply ... thanks a lot.

[Supa_c 1]

Ram air intake !

ghetto or whatever

I forgot the speed where this actually creates a ram air effect, but i know its not slow

[Nikuk 1]

Ryan sums it up pretty well - A full on tune up.

The only thing that I point out to folks...Tires. No matter how fast or safe Your car is, if it's got a set of tires that cost $35 a piece, it is not a good car to drive. Pick up a set of tires for high speed, thruway type (lane changing, high speed emergency manuevers) conditions.

While we are at it, since You are moving from minimal high speed driving to regular exposure, have the dealer do a full 4 wheel alignment with the tires. Considering the kilometers on the car, have the struts/shocks checked and replaced as needed.

Have the dealer take a good look at the steering system (rack, lines, pump, tie rods). If part of this system has a small fault that is merely annoying - at double the speed it can be unsafe.

Alot of the things mentioned here probably wont need any repairs, but I find it better to have it checked. Rather safe then sorry.

-Nick

[Chevy350TPI 12]

Yeah ... the road it'll be travelling is a major highway but rarely gets plowed properly. A good set of winter tires will be put on for the winter, and in the spring a quality set of all seasons or summers will be put on. And you know winter up here ...

Nice thing is ... they're 155/80R13's, which equates to really cheap to buy - even for a quality tire.

Actually, I'm really tempted to just drop $500-$800 and get some nice rims for the summer, but it just doesn't make any sense at all.

[Supa_c 1]

Yeah ... the road it'll be travelling is a major highway but rarely gets plowed properly.  A good set of winter tires will be put on for the winter, and in the spring a quality set of all seasons or summers will be put on.  And you know winter up here ...

Nice thing is ... they're 155/80R13's, which equates to really cheap to buy - even for a quality tire.

Actually, I'm really tempted to just drop $500-$800 and get some nice rims for the summer, but it just doesn't make any sense at all.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

wow, those are some dinky tires !

Used rims, not new ones

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Good call Nick. Check the CV joints too.

[Chevy350TPI 12]

Used rims, not new ones

Not likely around here.

Small town + the fact that the original owners would either ask what they paid for them 5 years ago or more.

[Supa_c 1]

lol...no kidding

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

Ryan and Nick laid it out well, not much I can add other than experience,

when I bought my sled it was a garage queen that saw day light on weekends and the occasional drive by the owners wifey, I kept it covered for pretty much the first 2 months I had it, until the Explorer snapped trannies again and I was suddenly forced to use the car as a daily driver, other than the initial tune up and compete fluid change and total look over by a top MB mechanic, I did nothing (other than buy $$$ tires) to the car to adjust to the 32k miles it recieved over the following year and a half,

I say find some cheap 15" wheels and use them as your year round wheel and just swap tires on and off

[Jmac 24]

Why ? You want a thinner tire in the snow, anyways ...