2 FI 15 BTL can't decide which amp to buy + ported box dimensions

[thfuller 0]

Hello everyone, I'm still trying to decide whether to buy one or two FI 15 BTLs. I will be buying each sub with: dual 2 Ohm, cooling package, HiXmCoil, I heat ring, and will be set for daily. For each sub, I was planning on either running a Hifonics BRZ3000.1D Pro with 3,000 watts RMS @ 1 Ohm, or a Memphis MC1.4000 Mojo which has 4,000 watts RMS @ 1 Ohm. Will the FI BTL 15 be able to handle 4,000 watts? or will the 3,000 watt amp be a better choice? Money is not an issue, and I'm going to do the Big 3 under the hood.

I am also looking for the dimensions of a box for either the one or two 15s. The truck is a 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 extended cab. I'm going to remove the backseat, to make room for the sub/s. I don't know the dimensions of the back with the seats removed. For a ported box, FI recommends that the box is 3-5 cubic ft. @ 30-35 Hz with 12-16 square inches of vent area per cubic foot of volume. I was thinking of something around 4 cubic feet @ 32 Hz with 14 square inches of vent area per cubic foot. Can anyone find a link to box online, or show me dimenshions of a box that will fit in the back of the truck (both, a single 15" sub box and/or a dual 15" box, would be very much appreciated)?

Much thanks in advance.

[Mac N Cheese 90]

Hello everyone, I'm still trying to decide whether to buy one or two FI 15 BTLs. I will be buying each sub with: dual 2 Ohm, cooling package, HiXmCoil, I heat ring, and will be set for daily. For each sub, I was planning on either running a Hifonics BRZ3000.1D Pro with 3,000 watts RMS @ 1 Ohm, or a Memphis MC1.4000 Mojo which has 4,000 watts RMS @ 1 Ohm. Will the FI BTL 15 be able to handle 4,000 watts? or will the 3,000 watt amp be a better choice? Money is not an issue, and I'm going to do the Big 3 under the hood.

I am also looking for the dimensions of a box for either the one or two 15s. The truck is a 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 extended cab. I'm going to remove the backseat, to make room for the sub/s. I don't know the dimensions of the back with the seats removed. For a ported box, FI recommends that the box is 3-5 cubic ft. @ 30-35 Hz with 12-16 square inches of vent area per cubic foot of volume. I was thinking of something around 4 cubic feet @ 32 Hz with 14 square inches of vent area per cubic foot. Can anyone find a link to box online, or show me dimenshions of a box that will fit in the back of the truck (both, a single 15" sub box and/or a dual 15" box, would be very much appreciated)?

Much thanks in advance.

what else do you have planned for electrical BESIDES just the big 3?

[thfuller 0]

I'm going to have a high output alternator installed (somewhere around 240 Amps?), and have extra batteries installed. Is there anything else you would suggest?

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

You are going to need a good electrical to power either of those up. Good thing money isn't a problem because you are going to spend more on that then the amp.

As for the box, you need to get a tape and help us help you. Not everyone drives a 09 Silverado on here.

Welcome BTW.

[thfuller 0]

Okay. I'm going to be taking the truck into the shop to get everything done soon. As for the dimensions, I will get them ASAP.

Also, how much do you suppose all the upgrading will cost?

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

Okay. I'm going to be taking the truck into the shop to get everything done soon. As for the dimensions, I will get them ASAP.

Also, how much do you suppose all the upgrading will cost?

Wont be cheap, but money is not a problem.

[emh9009 199]

DONT x 1000 buy a box you find online for those subs, one or two of them. can't exaggerate that enough.

you will want to build your own, or get one built for your application from a pro builder.

[emh9009 199]

here are some battery options I Have a XXXXXXX watt sytem. What battery do I need? - SSA Car Audio Forum

SSA.com sells these batteries so you can look the prices up on there for the ones you want (if you go with this company)

[Mac N Cheese 90]

Okay. I'm going to be taking the truck into the shop to get everything done soon. As for the dimensions, I will get them ASAP.

Also, how much do you suppose all the upgrading will cost?

so you are going to have a shop install everything for ya? i just looked up your vehicle and looks rather easy to do the big 3.....as for the cost if you want to do it right and not have to go back and spend more money because your previous equipment was efficient enought...its gonna be WELL over four digits just for electrical

[cheese20323 13]

Okay. I'm going to be taking the truck into the shop to get everything done soon. As for the dimensions, I will get them ASAP.

Also, how much do you suppose all the upgrading will cost?

so you are going to have a shop install everything for ya? i just looked up your vehicle and looks rather easy to do the big 3.....as for the cost if you want to do it right and not have to go back and spend more money because your previous equipment was efficient enought...its gonna be WELL over four digits just for electrical

Agreed. Never have shop install anything my dad had a T.V installed in our truck and he left and went to go eat i was like . Next day checked the wiring everything that you could see was organized but other than that everything was a mess. It isn't hard to install and you will know what you like and do not. If a shop does it your going to spend a lot of money on them. Save your self a couple of bills $.

Edited April 14, 2010 by cheese20323

[Mac N Cheese 90]

since your build is going to be rather big, i would suggest just asking questions and do some reading.....this is the best way to learn, not to have a shop do everything for ya..also if anything ever does go wrong then you can have a general location where to look

[BanginGMC 23]

Boxes are easy as fuck to make.. people think just because it plays such a big factor in this hobby it becomes X1345654321 harder, no. The design of the box is what makes it hard, not the constructing.

*3/4 MDF, Titebond 3, Screws, Router/Jig Saw, Power Drill.* (Home Depot can cut your wood -- measure before leaving the store)

In my signature, there is a guy that designs and builds enclosures, he can make you a design with a couple of 3D models so you can see the enclosure inside out and a cut-list which makes the job SO MUCH easier! He can add bracing, 45's, whatever the application calls for. Give him an E-mail and telling what you're wanting, equipment you'll be using, with the space and ride you have and he can take it from there and break it down to you with what you will need. -- I just ask you to notify them i referred you!!!!

Electrical upgrade are NOT cheap.. but, thankfully with only 4-5kwrms (I advice you to push no more then 2.5kwrms to each btl) you won't need more then one Alternator from DC Power and a huge battery. BUT there is different routes you can take when upgrading your rides electrical system.. *I SUGGEST YOU BUY THE BIGGEST ALT YOU CAN AFFORD* You can get a 350amp Alternator and (this is where the options come) you can get a BIG FUCKIN BATT like a XS Power D3100 and use it as your starter batt and have that the only batt in your ride...OR...you can get a GOOD starter batt like a XS Power D5100/D5100R and then add a second XS Power D5100/D5100R as your secondary batt.

XS Power Batts by SSA -- XS Power Products - SSA STORE

DC Power Engineering -- DC Power Engineering - Welcome

KnuKonceptz (wiring) -- Amp Installation Kits

NOTE: Company names/brands added to make your search easy and fast.