Shuriken Batteries

[ShaiTan 0]

Has anyone had any experience with Shruiken AGM batteries? Can they be used as main battery replacement? Or are they just for auxiliary use only for audio?

[cheese20323 13]

any car battery will work as long as it is 12 volts regardless if you have a system or not.

[CrazyKenKid 64]

if you are crazy you can also use 2-6volt batteries lol!! (hooked in series of course) but why would you? lol! who knows!

as for can they be used for a main battery i guess it would depend on what you car/truck/mini van/ whatever requires. for example my car requires...i think 800cca and 50ah (that is what the guy told me when i got my current new starting battery) so if it falls within the required specs why not!

[ShaiTan 0]

if you are crazy you can also use 2-6volt batteries lol!! (hooked in series of course) but why would you? lol! who knows!

as for can they be used for a main battery i guess it would depend on what you car/truck/mini van/ whatever requires. for example my car requires...i think 800cca and 50ah (that is what the guy told me when i got my current new starting battery) so if it falls within the required specs why not!

I just looked at my battery specs. And the largest Shuriken that would fit the stock location is their 35AH battery. My stock one is 50AH. So shuriken will not work as main battery replacement in my case. Unless I make a new battery tray, which I really don't want to do. So it looks like it's either Kinetik or XS Power as main replacement. Optima Yellow top is also too large. Gotta love cavaliers.

[Duran 387]

You don't want aH for a starting battery, you want CCA.

[shizzzon 461]

yea, u really don't require aH for pretty much anything really unless u run the battery for long periods of time without a charge going to it.

MA- for comp burps

CA- for bassrace\driveby other musical averages.

CCA- same as above for colder climate

aH\RC- measured on low current draw over long periods of time without a charge.

Little tip...

when comparing 2 batteries of like size, if the aH ratings are different but are the same group size... then u will witness the following-

When you have 1 battery that has higher aH than another of the same group size, it's MA rating will be lower...

So you have to choose what you will use the battery most for so u get the best choice..

Bigger aH and lower MA = best for daily driving

Lower aH and higher MA= best for competition burps and 30sec averages

Now, don't get me wrong, big aH can still be used in the lanes and lower aH can still be used on daily just fine but best choice will provide the longest run with the highest voltage level possible before the battery is completely dead.

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

Go with XS, the Metra batteries have too much Margin in their price.

[ShaiTan 0]

You don't want aH for a starting battery, you want CCA.

yea, u really don't require aH for pretty much anything really unless u run the battery for long periods of time without a charge going to it.

MA- for comp burps

CA- for bassrace\driveby other musical averages.

CCA- same as above for colder climate

aH\RC- measured on low current draw over long periods of time without a charge.

Little tip...

when comparing 2 batteries of like size, if the aH ratings are different but are the same group size... then u will witness the following-

When you have 1 battery that has higher aH than another of the same group size, it's MA rating will be lower...

So you have to choose what you will use the battery most for so u get the best choice..

Bigger aH and lower MA = best for daily driving

Lower aH and higher MA= best for competition burps and 30sec averages

Now, don't get me wrong, big aH can still be used in the lanes and lower aH can still be used on daily just fine but best choice will provide the longest run with the highest voltage level possible before the battery is completely dead.

I know CCA is most important in a starting battery. I had a '72 mustang mach 1 that needed a bare minimum of 1000cca to even crank the engine over to attempt to start. However my cavalier only has a 525 cca battery but is also a 50AH battery. Genuine AC Delco factory battery by the way. I also live in Iowa where it gets mighty cold in the winter time and terribly hot in sumer. It hit around 90 today and it's not the hot part of the year yet. So I need a battery that will hold up to both extremes as a daily driver.

Right now I have 2 Shuriken SK-BT20's at 850CA and 20AH each which I am going to use as the reserve in the trunk for the amp(s) (thinking of adding a 2 channel amp for the rear speakers as well). Eventually I will need to replace the stock battery as it's already 5+ years old. Hence why I was looking into Shuriken, Kinetik and XS Power.

The largest of those brands that will fit are....

Shuriken - SK-BT35 at 950CA and 35AH. at approx $100

Kinetik - HC1200 at 50AH rest unlisted. at approx $200

XS Power - D1200 at 44AH rest unlisted. at approx $180

XS Power - S1200 at 725CA min. RC 80A rest unlisted. at approx $200

So with those 2 Shurikens in the trunk which would be the best bet of those listed above? I'm thinking the Shuriken for the price and CA. Except for the AH rating is a little low compared to the Delco already in the car. Or the XS S1200 for the higher RC rating but lower CA than the Shruiken. So kind of a toss up in a way.

Edited May 25, 2010 by ShaiTan

[GlassWolf 5]

I just looked at my battery specs. And the largest Shuriken that would fit the stock location is their 35AH battery. My stock one is 50AH. So shuriken will not work as main battery replacement in my case. Unless I make a new battery tray, which I really don't want to do. So it looks like it's either Kinetik or XS Power as main replacement. Optima Yellow top is also too large. Gotta love cavaliers.

Don't rely solely on Ah as a means of measuring a battery for car audio applications.

this may help:

car battery sizing for audio applications

I actually just posted the above page this week because I've been seeing this topic pop up quite a bit recently.

[ShaiTan 0]

I just looked at my battery specs. And the largest Shuriken that would fit the stock location is their 35AH battery. My stock one is 50AH. So Shuriken will not work as main battery replacement in my case. Unless I make a new battery tray, which I really don't want to do. So it looks like it's either Kinetic or XS Power as main replacement. Optima Yellow top is also too large. Gotta love cavaliers.

Don't rely solely on Ah as a means of measuring a battery for car audio applications.

this may help:

car battery sizing for audio applications

I actually just posted the above page this week because I've been seeing this topic pop up quite a bit recently.

So basically what you are saying is this....

I have 2 Shuriken SK-BT20's at 850CA and 20AH each. WIre them in parallel for a total of 1700CA and 40AH. Which theoretically would be enough as a replacement for my main battery.

Or do as I intended and use those 2 as the rear batteries for the amp and add say a Shuriken SK-BT35 at 950CA and 35AH. Wire it in parllel to the SK-BT20's for a grand total 2650CA and 75AH. Which should be plenty for up to 2000w of total system draw. Which should be plenty for my MB Quart DSC1000.1 and a 2 channel amp for my rear deck speakers. Along with all the normal vehical electrical system.

I apologize for my ramblings and questions. I just want to be sure I do things at least somewhat properly. And not hob cobble things together that don't belong or should not be used. I also like to hear others opinions and advice. Because you all know more about this stuff than I do. And may offer something that I have not thought of.

[GlassWolf 5]

well personally, when the engine is running, I'd be sure the alternator was up to the task for the current demands. The batteries really shouldn't play a part in thatwhile the car is running.

If this is for sanctioned competition, or use while the car is shut off in parking lots and such, then I'd have a normal starter battery, a battery isolator so that the starter battery is never seen by the audio system, and dedicated batteries in the back, in parallel, with as low a Peukett Exponent as possible, and sufficient amp-hours to support the audio system demands based on current draw at the desired volumes, for the period of time required, and I'd be sure to use deep cycle AGM batteries to avoid issues with gassing if the batteries aren't going to be in a sealed battery box, vented to outside the car.

When you start putting batteries in the passenger cabin of a car, you start getting into the risk of gassing, and possible health issues related to the inhalation of hydrogen gas.