btl 18 cuts out at high volume HELP!!!!!!

[stilzz 0]

The amp did not have a problem running at 2 ohms It is a MMATS dhc2200.1 amp which is one ohm stable. The speaker on the meter is reading .8 ohms I am using an LC8 which is pretty much necessary to run the benz factory radio to allow steering wheel controls to work. I have not checked for any voltage drops however I had a Hifonics Brutus 2000 watt amp on there before and the lights dimmed at high volumes but continued to play. The mmats amp has a very small foot print and the lights dont dimmed at all at any volume. If I am playing a Jeezy or luda song with heavy bass the low notes dont hit. It is like a dull pop then it hits the other higher bass notes. It was playing pretty good last night on old school rnb and some house music at very high volumes. I actually turn the gain up a little because could not here the bass with out turning up the bass from the head unit. The lc8 may need to be turned down was a thought. MMATS amp i hear are very finicky about voltage drops. Eventhough the lights dont dim when the low notes come it may because the current draw is not there because the note doesn't play. Amps in the past I have had when the amp goes in into protection it usually shuts off for awhile and a red light comes on. Not skipping beats. Thanks for everyone's help with this matter

[stilzz 0]

You need to stop using the word clip to describe your situation. Your amp is not clipping, it is cutting out. Clipping describes a different situation where the output signal is still on, the amplitude is just limited and clipped off at the peaks and valleys due to the constraints of the amplifier. Cutting out is when the amp goes into protection or stops outputting a signal for some reason.

Start taking things out of the signal chain. If you have a line driver, take that out and wire the amp straight to the head unit. See if it still cuts out. If so, take the head unit out of the signal chain by using a different source, such as wiring an mp3 player straight to the amp, and see if it still cuts out then. Also check your connections everywhere and make sure speaker wires aren't touching together anywhere, speaker wires aren't touching the basket of the sub, or there are any other shorts in the power, ground, remote, etc. wires.

I had an install already with a ma amp and hifonics amp and everything was fine. I swapped out those two amps for a jl 300/4 and the mmats amp and added the btl. A good test might be to run a different speaker at 1 ohm and see if there is a problem or run the btl on someone else s amp to see if that's the problem. What do you think?

[stilzz 0]

Have you tried to wire the sub to 4 ohm and see if the amp has the same problem?

No, not sure if that would be enough power to move the sub

[stilzz 0]

It's a gain problem.

He uses a line driver that boosts his output voltage coming from the HU.

So turn the gains down even more, you're are seriously clipping.

That's why the amp shutsdown, i hope the sub doesn't has any damage.

Could be. The gains are hard to get to on the 4 ch so by turning the gains down to much I literally have to take alll the treble out and raise the bass all the way up. But I can with the gains at 0 once I get to the the 4ch gains

[kirill007 52]

Have you tried to wire the sub to 4 ohm and see if the amp has the same problem?

No, not sure if that would be enough power to move the sub

Yea, it probablly won't move... ><

You do know it's just testing where the problem is?

[stilzz 0]

Does the amplifier run down to 1 ohm in the first? and are you sure you got dual 2's and not dual 1's? if they are indeed dual 1's you would be wiring down to .5 ohm. The amplifier only accepts 4 gauge wire... for a 2,000 amplifier you would expect to get 1/0.. I would consider getting a reducer. This will allow more current to your amplifier.

it metered at .8 ohm 0 gauge throughout. kinetic 2400 bat right next to the amp.. I will check out the reducer, thanks

[stilzz 0]

Have you tried to wire the sub to 4 ohm and see if the amp has the same problem?

No, not sure if that would be enough power to move the sub

Yea, it probablly won't move... ><

You do know it's just testing where the problem is?

Ill try that as well

[stilzz 0]

Have you tried to wire the sub to 4 ohm and see if the amp has the same problem?

No, not sure if that would be enough power to move the sub

Yea, it probablly won't move... ><

You do know it's just testing where the problem is?

I did have it wired at 2 ohms on a different set of speakers and there was not a problem

[stilzz 0]

Does the amplifier run down to 1 ohm in the first? and are you sure you got dual 2's and not dual 1's? if they are indeed dual 1's you would be wiring down to .5 ohm. The amplifier only accepts 4 gauge wire... for a 2,000 amplifier you would expect to get 1/0.. I would consider getting a reducer. This will allow more current to your amplifier.

I looked into the reducer. I dont think I need that I have 0 guage to the amp

[KU40 173]

You need to stop using the word clip to describe your situation. Your amp is not clipping, it is cutting out. Clipping describes a different situation where the output signal is still on, the amplitude is just limited and clipped off at the peaks and valleys due to the constraints of the amplifier. Cutting out is when the amp goes into protection or stops outputting a signal for some reason.

Start taking things out of the signal chain. If you have a line driver, take that out and wire the amp straight to the head unit. See if it still cuts out. If so, take the head unit out of the signal chain by using a different source, such as wiring an mp3 player straight to the amp, and see if it still cuts out then. Also check your connections everywhere and make sure speaker wires aren't touching together anywhere, speaker wires aren't touching the basket of the sub, or there are any other shorts in the power, ground, remote, etc. wires.

I had an install already with a ma amp and hifonics amp and everything was fine. I swapped out those two amps for a jl 300/4 and the mmats amp and added the btl. A good test might be to run a different speaker at 1 ohm and see if there is a problem or run the btl on someone else s amp to see if that's the problem. What do you think?

Yeah that would be a good test. Just make sure the new sub can handle the full output of the amp, or at least most of it, so that you can run it decently hard to see if it will cut out. But you don't want to blow the test speaker, obviously. That would suck. When you tested the sub's voice coils, did you test each coil by itself or did you already have them wired together then tested the speaker wire from both? You might try testing each coil by itself. You may have one bad coil and one good coil, and the DMM would only pick up the good coil.

You say you had it wired to 2 ohms on another speaker and it was no problem. That kinda leads me to think there may be something wrong with the amp running at 1 ohm. Maybe it's finicky. But yeah, also try out your wild beast subs on there at 1 ohm.

[natethedogg55 0]

You need to stop using the word clip to describe your situation. Your amp is not clipping, it is cutting out. Clipping describes a different situation where the output signal is still on, the amplitude is just limited and clipped off at the peaks and valleys due to the constraints of the amplifier. Cutting out is when the amp goes into protection or stops outputting a signal for some reason.

Start taking things out of the signal chain. If you have a line driver, take that out and wire the amp straight to the head unit. See if it still cuts out. If so, take the head unit out of the signal chain by using a different source, such as wiring an mp3 player straight to the amp, and see if it still cuts out then. Also check your connections everywhere and make sure speaker wires aren't touching together anywhere, speaker wires aren't touching the basket of the sub, or there are any other shorts in the power, ground, remote, etc. wires.

I had an install already with a ma amp and hifonics amp and everything was fine. I swapped out those two amps for a jl 300/4 and the mmats amp and added the btl. A good test might be to run a different speaker at 1 ohm and see if there is a problem or run the btl on someone else s amp to see if that's the problem. What do you think?

Yeah that would be a good test. Just make sure the new sub can handle the full output of the amp, or at least most of it, so that you can run it decently hard to see if it will cut out. But you don't want to blow the test speaker, obviously. That would suck. When you tested the sub's voice coils, did you test each coil by itself or did you already have them wired together then tested the speaker wire from both? You might try testing each coil by itself. You may have one bad coil and one good coil, and the DMM would only pick up the good coil.

You say you had it wired to 2 ohms on another speaker and it was no problem. That kinda leads me to think there may be something wrong with the amp running at 1 ohm. Maybe it's finicky. But yeah, also try out your wild beast subs on there at 1 ohm.

[natethedogg55 0]

your voltage is probably running low at high volumes. which means the amplifier is going into protect mode

[stilzz 0]

I am going to trouble shoot the amp and the sub. I still think something is damaged. I think a coil on the sub is fried. There is no model number on the amp either I was just told it was a dhc2200.1 so I am going to open that up. The amp is suppose to put out much more. Not to say it cant happen but a voltage drop one mmats amp is kinda a oxy moron. Not to say iit not possible. MMATS are known for there efficiency. Most amps are 30-50% efficient. mmats is 76% When I ran the amp at 2ohms the subs did not cut out. I am about to try it on 1 ohm on these wb 10s. I am guessing the tinsels or something is fried on the sub or the amp is not 1ohm stable. I'll let you know

[slim2fattycake 85]

[KU40 173]

I hate to burst your bubble, but that amp is not that special in terms of efficiency. Basically all class D amps such as that one are 70-80% efficient. Some amps are even in the 80s. If you're comparing that amp to a class A/B amp, such as most 2 and 4 channels are, then yeah it looks good because those are usually only 50-60% efficient. But you need to compare apples to apples here. To give you an example, here is the new Sundown SAX-1200D, it's listed as 86% efficient: Sundown Audio - SAX-1200D

[NDMstang65 403]

KU - that's at 4ohms at 100Hz.

You never play 4ohms..or 100Hz with a subwoofer lol .

What nobody understands is that a class a..or class a/b..or class D amplifier..is all right within 3-4% of each other in efficiency terms when they are all running wide open.

You'll never see anything over 80%...just doesn't happen.

[stilzz 0]

I hate to burst your bubble, but that amp is not that special in terms of efficiency. Basically all class D amps such as that one are 70-80% efficient. Some amps are even in the 80s. If you're comparing that amp to a class A/B amp, such as most 2 and 4 channels are, then yeah it looks good because those are usually only 50-60% efficient. But you need to compare apples to apples here. To give you an example, here is the new Sundown SAX-1200D, it's listed as 86% efficient: Sundown Audio - SAX-1200D

Yeah your right there always something better. But it is considered a high end amp. Its special to me because majority of people would think it is a very good amp and that it does not suck. I am also coming from Hifonics and Ma Audio. I now have a JL and mmats amp pretty large leap for me and I can totally hear the difference. I just dont think it is a voltage issue. I will get it checked out though

[s_carter 5]

I would start looking for a bad connection, or even check your inline fuse. I have had a rash of installs I have worked on lately where the fuse looked fine, but once you turned the amp up it would start cutting out. Turns out the fuse was reading some funky resistance on a DMM and causing the problems. Changed the fuse, problem solved! Simple check, even if it doesn't solve your problem.

[stilzz 0]

I finally pulled the sub and put in a MMATS 3.0 15 wired for 2ohms and there has not been any problems. My installer thinks its the sub. I am still testing. I also pulled the Lc8 and replaced it with a EQS. Still need to run the dhc2200.1 at 1 ohm to be for sure. If no problems then it must be the sub.

[NDMstang65 403]

Of course you aren't going to have any problems...you are running at 2ohms, not 1ohm.

If you have the problem when something is wired to 1ohm...then you need to duplicate that situation again with another speaker.

The amp probably cannot handle 1ohm...and freaks out and shuts off.

[stilzz 0]

Of course you aren't going to have any problems...you are running at 2ohms, not 1ohm.

If you have the problem when something is wired to 1ohm...then you need to duplicate that situation again with another speaker.

The amp probably cannot handle 1ohm...and freaks out and shuts off.

Ok well the manufacturer claims it is a 1 ohm stable amp. Are you saying that it cant handle 1 ohm because the amp is defective?

Specs

SPECIFICATIONS

RMS Power at 13.8V

1400W into 2 ohms with less than 1% THD+N

2200W into 1 ohm with less than 1% THD+N

S/N Ratio: -92db A-Wtd

Frequency Response: <10 to 225Hz

Lowpass Filter: Variable 24db, 70 to 200Hz

Idle Current: 1A

Dimensions (LxWxH): 15” x 9.25” x 2.25”

FEATURES

Ultra- Efficient Class D Audio Output Stage

[NDMstang65 403]

Of course you aren't going to have any problems...you are running at 2ohms, not 1ohm.

If you have the problem when something is wired to 1ohm...then you need to duplicate that situation again with another speaker.

The amp probably cannot handle 1ohm...and freaks out and shuts off.

Ok well the manufacturer claims it is a 1 ohm stable amp. Are you saying that it cant handle 1 ohm because the amp is defective?

Specs

SPECIFICATIONS

RMS Power at 13.8V

1400W into 2 ohms with less than 1% THD+N

2200W into 1 ohm with less than 1% THD+N

S/N Ratio: -92db A-Wtd

Frequency Response: <10 to 225Hz

Lowpass Filter: Variable 24db, 70 to 200Hz

Idle Current: 1A

Dimensions (LxWxH): 15” x 9.25” x 2.25”

FEATURES

Ultra- Efficient Class D Audio Output Stage

[stilzz 0]

Of course you aren't going to have any problems...you are running at 2ohms, not 1ohm.

If you have the problem when something is wired to 1ohm...then you need to duplicate that situation again with another speaker.

The amp probably cannot handle 1ohm...and freaks out and shuts off.

Ok well the manufacturer claims it is a 1 ohm stable amp. Are you saying that it cant handle 1 ohm because the amp is defective?

Specs

SPECIFICATIONS

RMS Power at 13.8V

1400W into 2 ohms with less than 1% THD+N

2200W into 1 ohm with less than 1% THD+N

S/N Ratio: -92db A-Wtd

Frequency Response: <10 to 225Hz

Lowpass Filter: Variable 24db, 70 to 200Hz

Idle Current: 1A

Dimensions (LxWxH): 15” x 9.25” x 2.25”

FEATURES

Ultra- Efficient Class D Audio Output Stage

[NDMstang65 403]

Precisely