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Well I finaly got to mesuring my cars voltage, and to my suprise, my dmm read 14.23 and this is all stock electrical without the big three. I got the voltage Through some cheepo 8 gauge from my most recent system. I wanted to know if this sounds good for a 1kw system. Thaw alternator is 95 amps and the batery is a die hard. I want some opinions if you guys think I may be able to run a aq 1200d whithout any major electrical upgrades. And I am doing the big three in 1/0 cable.

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so you want to upgrade from a 1000 to a 1200 setup?

why? you aren't going to hear a difference 200watt isn't much. remember theoretically to hear a difference you need 3db and to obtain 3db you need to either double the power or double the cone area! but in real life you will need more theory is just theory and more so of a guild line. lol.

as for your voltage of 14.23vdc is that at full tilt? or your foot on the pedal to 4000rpm? or what? b/c hell most ppl system sit at 14 volt with the car on nothing playing right.

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Definitley upgrade your power and ground wire to 1/0 along with doing the "Big 3". Will you be running 1 or 2 ohm at the amp? Either should be ok but you may want to add a second battery. Especially when running your amp at 1 ohm.

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Definitley upgrade your power and ground wire to 1/0 along with doing the "Big 3". Will you be running 1 or 2 ohm at the amp? Either should be ok but you may want to add a second battery. Especially when running your amp at 1 ohm.

Ill be runing 1 ohm, and yes I will eventualy add a second battery but I only got the cash for the amp right now because I'm in high school and I'm sure you know how that is.

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better yet why do you want to add 200watt? it isn't going to be like OMG amazing lol!

maybe spend that 200$ on a battery instead that way it will help out your 1000 and make it shine!! know what i mean!

also 14volts system off/on/full tilt/burp/startup.,,, what is that 14 volts coming from? just the car being on i assume

the real issue is when you are playing music and there is a DRAW on your cars electrical right! to see if your alt can keep up with your sound system or if you need to get a secondary battery. you should play the music as loud as you can and then report back with a new voltage number and go from there well not as loud as you can but as loud as you are comfortable doing

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better yet why do you want to add 200watt? it isn't going to be like OMG amazing lol!

maybe spend that 200$ on a battery instead that way it will help out your 1000 and make it shine!! know what i mean!

also 14volts system off/on/full tilt/burp/startup.,,, what is that 14 volts coming from? just the car being on i assume

the real issue is when you are playing music and there is a DRAW on your cars electrical right! to see if your alt can keep up with your sound system or if you need to get a secondary battery. you should play the music as loud as you can and then report back with a new voltage number and go from there well not as loud as you can but as loud as you are comfortable doing

I think you may have read my post wrong. I don't have a 1kw amp yet. I was just asking for opinions on if my electrical may be able to handle the power. But anyway the most power I put on my electrical is a 500 watt crunch amp that only does 250 rms if that

edit: opps! Re read my post an I guess I worded it weird. I made it look lik I am runing 1kw with 8 gauge power wire. Lol my bad

Edited by Bobobass

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o lol ya it was worded a bit weird and that tossed me for a loop!

at any rate i think you will for sure need another battery even if it is something small like a batcap 800 or kinetik hc 600 or something along those lines.

keep in mind if the amp has 100amps fusing on it that amp will make around 1200rms and your alt is 95amps at best (Stock) so you are already in the hole for current supply and demand and playing your setup for a prolong time will lead to draining the front battery and if that dies lol how will you start your car lol!

sorry for the confusion earlier lol

and keep in mind 8awg can support like 75amps of current which is ... 900watt (75amps x 12 volts) at best but then as you have more wire (length that is) that wire can carry less and less current to the amp

also then you factor in impedance rise, IE my d1 sub is wired to 2ohm and when i burp at 40hz my impedance rise is nearly 5ohm. but that is for a burp and since music is dynamic (ever changing) you can't always bank on a rise! it will also fall! read this for a better understand or to broaden your knowledge.

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o lol ya it was worded a bit weird and that tossed me for a loop!

at any rate i think you will for sure need another battery even if it is something small like a batcap 800 or kinetik hc 600 or something along those lines.

keep in mind if the amp has 100amps fusing on it that amp will make around 1200rms and your alt is 95amps at best (Stock) so you are already in the hole for current supply and demand and playing your setup for a prolong time will lead to draining the front battery and if that dies lol how will you start your car lol!

sorry for the confusion earlier lol

and keep in mind 8awg can support like 75amps of current which is ... 900watt (75amps x 12 volts) at best but then as you have more wire (length that is) that wire can carry less and less current to the amp

also then you factor in impedance rise, IE my d1 sub is wired to 2ohm and when i burp at 40hz my impedance rise is nearly 5ohm. but that is for a burp and since music is dynamic (ever changing) you can't always bank on a rise! it will also fall! read this for a better understand or to broaden your knowledge.

I actualy just bought 25 ft of 1/0 wire yesterday so that problem is gone. That 8 gauge is compleat crap!! It was do bad, my 12 gauge speaker wire i am useing has more actual wire than the 8 gauge. But anyway I won't be burping the sub. I will eventualy try a competition but not for awile. I'm going to one on the 11th but just watching.

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Rest voltage isn't what is important. How your electrical system performs under load however is important, which you didn't test.

Anything we tell you is going to be a guess. It depends on how your electrical will handle the load of the amplifier, your listening habits, your music selection, other accessories in the automobile, etc. I run a "2000 watt" system (of all class A/B amplifiers) on a stock alt & single HC1800 battery with virtually no voltage drop, but that's because I'm not actually using anywhere near the actual rated power of my amplifiers.

Really the only thing you can do is hook up the system and see how it handles it. If you do have voltage problems, then you can come ask for advice on the most effective method of resolving the specific issues you are having.

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x2. don't upgrade shit until you know you got a problem. that's my rule of thumb when your a broke student hehe.

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Rest voltage isn't what is important. How your electrical system performs under load however is important, which you didn't test.

Anything we tell you is going to be a guess. It depends on how your electrical will handle the load of the amplifier, your listening habits, your music selection, other accessories in the automobile, etc. I run a "2000 watt" system (of all class A/B amplifiers) on a stock alt & single HC1800 battery with virtually no voltage drop, but that's because I'm not actually using anywhere near the actual rated power of my amplifiers.

Really the only thing you can do is hook up the system and see how it handles it. If you do have voltage problems, then you can come ask for advice on the most effective method of resolving the specific issues you are having.

Thanks allot for the advice, when I buy the amp I'll post up if I have any problems if I do. If there is no problem il post some vids!

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