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bigrank916

2002 Mercedes C230 kompressor coupe

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SS Teacher    160

If you get the 80-PRS, shouldn't going active be a lot easier?

 

Welcome back by the way!

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bigrank916    58
3 hours ago, SS Teacher said:

If you get the 80-PRS, shouldn't going active be a lot easier?

 

Welcome back by the way!

That's a good question! I would think so but I'm not that smart when it comes to this stuff lol. I ordered it last night with a new dash kit that I've been sorely needing. Thank you brotha!

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bigrank916    58

I've been pouring over drivers to see what would be best for me and I'd really like to go smaller this time around but still high powered or the option to go bigger. I reeaaaaaally want the Evil 12. I saw the enclosure recs were about 2.5-3.25 cuft ported at 29-33hz. The size will fit perfectly in the hatch.

I was also looking at the Khaotic ported enclosure specs which are pretty close and they look pretty damn good. I'd like to make my own but I don't think I'll be on that level lol. Purchasing a design made specifically for the Evil 12 would be good tho so I can at least take a stab at it. If it doesn't work out, I can just have one made I guess.

I don't plan on using any more than 2k watts. Maybe even 1500. I don't see the Crescendo for sale anymore tho. Only add to wishlist instead of add to cart. Anything to this? Are they restocking? 

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jcarter1885    683

SSA has some amps coming out, I love my US Acoustics Mike I bought from the SSA Store.

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bigrank916    58
3 hours ago, jcarter1885 said:

SSA has some amps coming out, I love my US Acoustics Mike I bought from the SSA Store.

I saw that with a price drop to $269. Is that ending soon? I was thinking about those too after I saw that. Can you link 2 of them together? I looked but didnt see anything noting it. If so I could eventually strap 2 of them to the Evil driver.

I noticed the SSA amps too but are a lil pricey. I'd rather put more money into the driver and enclosure this time.

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bigrank916    58

I took off the driver side door panel tonight to see what i'm workin with inside there. Definitely needs an upgrade for sure. I think I might even be able to fit Evil mids in the front part :) 

 

These plastic mounts are glued to the speaker tho so i will need to made some mods with rings i guess. Not sure about the rear speakers but they look the same size, just a smaller cover. will be getting a 4 channel amp to power all of that too. Maybe a Barbara Ann would do. keep the cost down and still give me a much needed upgrade in the front stage

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jcarter1885    683
11 hours ago, bigrank916 said:

I saw that with a price drop to $269. Is that ending soon? I was thinking about those too after I saw that. Can you link 2 of them together? I looked but didnt see anything noting it. If so I could eventually strap 2 of them to the Evil driver.

I noticed the SSA amps too but are a lil pricey. I'd rather put more money into the driver and enclosure this time.

Honestly never looked into that, pm Aaron and he can get those answers for you. Looked on their site and it doesn't say if they can be strapped but dont want to assume. As fsr as pricing I know its been like that for awhile and there is no sale going on in the store at this moment. 

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bigrank916    58
2 hours ago, jcarter1885 said:

Honestly never looked into that, pm Aaron and he can get those answers for you. Looked on their site and it doesn't say if they can be strapped but dont want to assume. As fsr as pricing I know its been like that for awhile and there is no sale going on in the store at this moment. 

I PMed him about a couple things today. Getting excited for this build. Can't wait to see what it sounds like in a euro car lol. The DEH-80PRS and dash kit should be here Tues :dancing:

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bigrank916    58

This is the room I'm working with. I'm wondering about enclosure ideas. I was thinking about a 2 faced front wedge type box with a wide port on the bottom. Not sure if upfiring or rear firing would would best.

20170423_092714.jpg

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bigrank916    58

The HU came in today. I'll be toying with that tonight :)

20170426_165828.jpg

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bigrank916    58

I've hit a snag installing this new HU. Wtf is that and why is it installed in my car?? For some reason I couldn't get my old HU to come on unless I left that contraption in there. When I took apart the dash to order a new kit, i found that and tried to remove it while cleaning up the wires. i thot it was some cheap noise filter or something? Well the HU failed to work unless it was installed. Now after removing it tonight, I can't remember where it went. Tried the gound and constant, then ground and acc but nothing. Now I cant power either radio. What am i missing here?? Shouldn't I be able to run straight to the factory wires and get power? It just worked a few days ago...I looked to make sure what wires were correct and I think I've got them right.

12V constant- blue/red

12V switched- black/yellow

Ground- brown

20170426_212530.jpg

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bigrank916    58

I took my meter to the wires and found the Acc and ground wires for sure. When I test the supposed constant wire it reads 24mV. Wtf?? Not sure why when my meter is set properly and it reads the Acc wire in V. There is only one other wire in there and it doesn't read proper voltage.

I've never had this kind of difficulty wiring in a new HU. This should be reaaaaally simple but its kicking my ass lol. 

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bigrank916    58

Nightmare city...apparently there is a CAN system that integrates all kinds of shit together. I've been scouring MB forums etc and finding out that this is way harder than it should be. I rea done post that told a guy he needed to run all new wires to the speakers cause he could trust what else it was connected to. The CAN has two wires and one runs stuff like power window and locks, HVAC, stereo, etc. Now my driver door wont lock...I'm about ready to abandon this shit.

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bigrank916    58

Whelp...this is a disaster. I got some fiber optic couplers that are supposed to close the loop from missing items. I installed one at the missing amp by the spare tire and another at the HU. Unhooked the batt for awhile and turned it back on to discover that my SRS, ABS, and ESP are now fucked up. I'm pretty much over this build now. This car is the WRONG one to try it in. Having not known wtf the last installed did or not did, it would be such a pain in the ass to track down all the problems with this fiber optic BS.

I'm selling it for a G with the interior disassembled. I have a 2014 chevy sonic but I wont be putting anything in there. I will be getting rid of that soon too so I'll have to wait until I buy a new car.

 

GAME OVER. 

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jcarter1885    683

Damn man didnt expect this outcome, hopefully something works out for ya. 

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Notorious97200    304

Sorry to read that. :(  

Hope you'll find something good. 

 

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bigrank916    58

I keep trying to fix it but I just dont understand it. As far as i know, this is the loop that should be in my car. This shows a total of six components. I have the one at the HU, one behind the rear seat, and one by the factory amp in the rear that were not bypassed. There was already 2 or 3 bypass couplers in the back previously installed. I'm also confused as to why some of the wires in the loop arent actually in the "loop". The one behind the back seat is basically looped it itself and only taped to the rest of the loop. I only bought 2 couplers from the dealer since i didnt even know what i needed. One more will "close" the loop if its even in order in the 1st place. 

If anyone can help me, I'd really appreciate it. I don't wanna give up on this but I get discouraged every time I try to figure this out.

Networking.jpg

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djjdnap    75
Posted (edited)

glad i read this.

 

Just changed the HU in My w219.

this was from a w211

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w211/595334-after-market-android-4-4-4-quad-core-complete-install-vids-pics-txt.html

 

Basically you need to remove the factory radio and amp, cd changer and navigation.

couldnt remove my cd changer since its behind the ac controls but it no longer is usefull, a few people wired it to where it would still hold cds as storage, but who uses cd's these days.

Its all ran from the radio.

So if you want to use the stock amp and nav you have to buy that fiber cable connector.

I just took it all out. Removed the stock radio ran all my wires to the radio(pos, acc, ground) from where the factory amp is to the HU. the factory amp has the speaker wires already there so connected them to a new amp. And there is also a antenna adapter cable you have to buy(fakra to Motorola)

https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=200577104709&lpid=82&&&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps

After installing everything i was getting weird static and ran the noise isolator to my radio +pos not acc and it went away.

 

was gonna wait to post my build, but Ill post what i have in here for you.

 

 

 

Edited by djjdnap
updates

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bigrank916    58
13 hours ago, djjdnap said:

glad i read this.

 

Just changed the HU in My w219.

this was from a w211

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w211/595334-after-market-android-4-4-4-quad-core-complete-install-vids-pics-txt.html

 

Basically you need to remove the factory radio and amp, cd changer and navigation.

couldnt remove my cd changer since its behind the ac controls but it no longer is usefull, a few people wired it to where it would still hold cds as storage, but who uses cd's these days.

Its all ran from the radio.

So if you want to use the stock amp and nav you have to buy that fiber cable connector.

I just took it all out. Removed the stock radio ran all my wires to the radio(pos, acc, ground) from where the factory amp is to the HU. the factory amp has the speaker wires already there so connected them to a new amp. And there is also a antenna adapter cable you have to buy(fakra to Motorola)

https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=200577104709&lpid=82&&&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps

After installing everything i was getting weird static and ran the noise isolator to my radio +pos not acc and it went away.

 

was gonna wait to post my build, but Ill post what i have in here for you.

 

 

 

All the audio components have already been removed before i bought this car. Why didn't you use the wires in the dash for your HU? The factory amp was in the rear wheel well in my car. There is no wires from the speakers there. Only wires to the taillights and FO lines. My whole prob started by the factory wires at the dash not working properly. The 12V constant reads 24mV...I get 12 ACC from tapping into the cig lighter and apparently the brown wire is my ground. There is a pic I took a few posts back of something that looked like a noise filter installed with the old aftermarket HU. I had no idea what it was but after removing it, I can no longer get power to the HU. Also I don't remember what wires it was connected to but i tried ground and 12V and nothing. I know I can find power somewhere but why am i not getting power from factory wires??

I'm starting to think that the ESP, ABS, and SRS notifications on the info screen in the dash have nothing to do with the Fiber optic issue. I can only assume it does tho as the previous installer

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djjdnap    75

Hmmm if the factory amp was in the rear the wires should still be back there.

I didn't have any wires from the factory HU. It only had some fiber and a small 3 prong wire going to it.
Like i said i ran all of my wires from where the factory amp was in the trunk. I think i used the ground from the cig lighter but that was it. You could use the cig lighter for all 3 to run the radio i guess.(acc, grnd, dim). Still need a constant from the somewhere though. Which i assume was the wire coming from that noise isolator. I then used the Rem wire from my radio to power the Rem on the amp. Probably not necessary, since the power antenna comes on when the car is started i believe....or it may not which could explain my radio stations not being strong.

The only time i had weird errors like that pop up was when i disconnected something that wasn't related to my radio lol.
All brown wires are grounds on Mercs FYI, weird as hell.

 

But if they removed the factory amp and radio why do you still have fiber? The fiber should only control(radio, factory amp, nav)
Oh and make sure your battery is charged up. If it is low you will get those errors on the dash.

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djjdnap    75

Also keep finding the same method for all of the mercedes.

Quote

There is alot here, just search 'w203 aftermarket head unit' or 'w203 10 way iso' or 'w203 srs light whilst installing aftermarket head unit', I used info from threads started by 'omega1' + 'cplnoonoo', so possibly do a username search aswell.
The reason I found this place was because I was in a similar situation to you, I wanted to remove the audio 10 tape and 6 cd changer and go for a single din unit with built in bluetooth and usb, I installed a Kenwood KDC-BT8044U, using the connects 2 fascia, I checked 2 other fascias and the fit of the connects 2 fascia I found to be superior, also in a single din application it was one of the few adaptors that came with the cubby hole, thus keeping an 'as original' look as possible when going aftermarket.
You can put that double din unit in, using a double din prefacelift W203 fascia kit, connects 2 do one, go to their website for details, also there are others aswell, however as I am a person who loves precision, I went for the connects 2 fascia for the snug fit.
The problem you will face is your bose amp is on the D2B fibre optic ring, thus communicates with the head unit via fibre optics, also I think the speakers used in the Bose system are 2 ohm, so will not work properly, this is what i have read, but the info could be wrong.
If the above is true, you could get round it by locating bose amp, removing it, sending RCA's from new unit to that position,installing new amp, connect RCA's to new amp,connect existing speaker wires that originally went from old bose to speakers to new amp, replacing all speakers with 8 ohm ones or find an aftermarket amp that runs 2 ohm stable.
But who knows there maybe an adaptor, I will research when I have time. The only thing is, I am sure the bose is on the fibre optic ring, but lets see if there is a solution.
When I pulled my audio 10 out I had one 8 pin iso for speakers, one 8 pin iso for power and one 10 pin iso for cd changer power/control and canbus.
Your steering wheel buttons communicate with the head unit via the can hi and can lo pins on the 10 way iso, the chances of finding an adaptor for the unit you link to are extremely low. If you want steering wheel controls you will have to go Alpine, Kenwood, Pioneer although I am still looking for the Kenwood CAW MB 1110 adaptor for my unit as they have discontinued it and have not sorted a definate substitute in the new range, only a matter of time though, also the pioneer CAR PI 131 seems to be difficult to get hold of but less so. Connects 2 and others, have universal can bus adaptors that will will give steering controls aswell as signals missing from the 8 way power iso that are sent over canbus, such as +12v ignition, illumination, speed pulse, reverse e.t.c. so the options are open if you go for a well known head unit brand. If you do not use an adaptor you can tap into cigarette lighter harness for ignition +12v and illumination, like I did.
I will post back later, but search here to get a heads up.
Cheers.

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/electronics/87216-w203-audio-10-replacement-aftermarket-headunit.html

So not sure what the person before you did.

When you got it there was already a aftermarket HU? Aftermarket amp? did navigation still work?

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bigrank916    58

Yeah I tapped into the cigg lighter for 12V ACC and it works great. I decided tonight that I'm gonna skip all this factory wiring and run everything new myself. Its the only way to make sure I dont have ticky tack issues down the road. Still need to find that 12V constant like you mentioned tho. Theres gotta be one in the car somewhere and I'll find it lol. 

Dude I had the same issues with my radio reception. Never could get anything to come in that great and most wouldn't come in at all. Last install left the antenna plug that looks ok but its connected far behind the dash and I cant see what originally what it was connected to. Did you convert yours over yourself?

The errors I assume are just that. I think the systems work properly, aside from testing the SRS myself by crashing it lol. Im not sure how to fix those but it doesn't alter the performance of the car so its just wait n see how it goes.

I have no idea why the FO is still in there. I figured that I wasted the money on the few couplers I bought since its not even connected to anything. I thot I had read somewhere that the CANb or 2 line was the one that carried all the electronics inside the vehicle and the 1st one controlled engine/drivtrain etc? Its all confusing as fuck tbh.

Wait...my battery will cause errors for SRS, ABS, and, ESP??? I just replaced the battery a few months or a year ago. I hardly even drive the car at all but it always fires up quickly. I just checked it and it sits at 12V. 

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djjdnap    75

issue 1:  when i got the srs error the car wouldn't start either.


issue 2: I grounded out something i wasn't supposed to trying to find a ground for my brake wire and that kept popping up. Would say it was a ground with my light, but as soon as i started the car abs, esp light would cut on, but car would still start just fine.

the antenna was just an adapter fakra to motorola, then i had to run the new motorola antenna wire to the HU.(since everything was in the trunk) So adapter was one piece and the 10 or 15ft antenna wire was another piece i needed.

It's a weird beast. I know once i disconnected the stock HU, my cd changer, amp and nav no longer received a signal to turn on.
It sounds kind of opposite of yours, your getting the acc, but no constant.

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djjdnap    75

http://www.mercedesmedic.com/bas-esp-abs-mercedes-benz/

Boom easy fix. Forgot to mention yea if you disconnect the battery you have to reset your windows and some other systems.

Apparently on yours you have to reset the braking system as well:lol:

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