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Can I do anything special with these component speakers???

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http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_23_127&products_id=617

System Type

2-Way

Frequency Response

40Hz - 20KHz

System Sensitivity

89dB

Final Impedance

4 Ohm

I currently own these 2 amplifiers:

Boston Acoustics GT2125

Sundown SAX 100.2

One of the crossovers is damaged so it cannot be used. What could I do? Could I possibly run the tweets off the BA amp and the woofer off the Sundown amp? Other suggestions??

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You could find the X-over points and use them in a 2 way active setup.

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Is there a way to find out from the crossovers themselves? or is it trial and error??

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Good luck trying to get any help from eD. But I would try running them active.

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I wasn't gonna bother with them unless the only option was to try and get another crossover... :/ .. But I have read alot of bad but I have had a few good experiences with them and my buddy who had purchased these speakers loved their stuff too..

My biggest things is, how the hell can I find the crossover points? I emailed them a little while ago so I don't expect anything until maybe Monday or Tuesday... In the meantime, how could I find out myself? Also I did a "ohms" test with my dmm on the woofer and the tweet. The woofer came out to 3.1 -3.4 which I guess means it is a 4 ohm driver.. The tweet was 3.6-3.8 which would mean the same thing... Is that right?

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I would guess the crossovers are probably pretty standard. If you can pull the values off of the components within the crossovers and get a picture of the crossovers, probably wouldn't be too difficult to figure out the xover point of the passives.

And yes, you could run them active from those two amplifiers as long as the amplifiers offered the necessary crossover ranges.

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This is the crossover section for my BA amplifier... I think it should be enough to run the woofers or tweets... Let me know... :eek5wavey:

DSCN0197.JPG

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Could also repair/upgrade those crossovers rather easily....

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Could also repair/upgrade those crossovers rather easily....

I was thinking that as well... I think I need to wait for a reply from edesign before I make a decision on that. I have one good crossover so I could purchase a similar capacitor and solder it in place... Any ideas on that part? Should I take some photos of it for you guys to look at?

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Could also repair/upgrade those crossovers rather easily....

I was thinking that as well... I think I need to wait for a reply from edesign before I make a decision on that. I have one good crossover so I could purchase a similar capacitor and solder it in place... Any ideas on that part? Should I take some photos of it for you guys to look at?

Sorry, my reply was talking about the passive crossovers, not the crossovers on the amplifier.

As I said in my 1st reply......Pull the values off the components in the passive crossovers and post a couple pictures. They more than likely are pretty basic/standard crossovers. Shouldn't be too hard to figure them out.

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Nah I knew you meant the ones that came in the set.. I took some photos but it doesn't have much on them...

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This is the good one... There is nothing on the backside so I didn't take photos of it...:

DSCN0211.JPG

This is the damaged one... It is missing the capacitor in the lower right corner:

DSCN0210.JPG

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Actually I'd guess its missing an inductor. Those can be replaced, but it is going to be hard to find one as shitty as that one :P

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Actually I'd guess its missing an inductor. Those can be replaced, but it is going to be hard to find one as shitty as that one :P

Oh how I love thee! ... lmao... So yea, if I can upgrade them I'd be willing to or at least replace the "shitty" one..

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Were these installed in a boat? Why is everything so rusty and corroded?

Were any of the components actually bad, or are things just so corroded that you aren't getting good connections?

Those things probably aren't worth saving unless you put a lot of work into cleaning out all of the rust.

EDIT: And yeah, like Sean said you're missing an inductor not a capacitor.

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The rust is fixable.. I can just replace the screws and hold downs if anything.... And no it wasn't in a boat, it was in a Miata that was stripped down to bare metal, no door skins or panels and I am pretty sure he had leaks in the doors but didn't care...

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TBH, it seemed to work ok as it is... But I don't like throwing stuff into my car knowing something is broken beforehand... I heard them many times in my friend's Miata and they sound good, hard to say if they were affected by this damage since all you hear is engine and exhaust noise plus it is a convertible... not the best environment to judge it... :suicide-santa:

If I replace the screws/hold downs and wiring, think it'll be okay?

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Were these installed in a boat? Why is everything so rusty and corroded?

Were any of the components actually bad, or are things just so corroded that you aren't getting good connections?

Those things probably aren't worth saving unless you put a lot of work into cleaning out all of the rust.

EDIT: And yeah, like Sean said you're missing an inductor not a capacitor.

They are eD drivers, Ben probably uses a saltwater wash when finished since some idiot said that would make them sound better.

TBH, it seemed to work ok as it is...

If I replace the screws/hold downs and wiring, think it'll be okay?

Depending on how the crossover was wired that could be not so good. Do both speakers sound the same when used? It may be just for one leg of the attenuation circuit and in that case not needed if you use the other leg, but it is pretty hard to tell what it is without seeing the traces. And even then it isn't always obvious to figure out things when they cut so many corners in the process. One thing is for sure, those are some craptastic crossovers to begin with.

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Thanks again fellas...

So I am putting up some photos of the backside just so you can see what the crossover mayhem is beneath the covers...

DSCN0213.JPG

Do you think I should even bother trying to go active with the drivers? They did sound okay when they were installed in the Miata... Should I make a temporary mounting plate so I can install them in my car and see how it sounds?

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Would this be good? Or should I just invest in some decent component set?

This map is with the edesign woofer and tweet setup as active..:

audio_map.jpg

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If you have the proper crossover ranges, I'd just run them active.

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I see... Well thanks for all the advice so far... appreciating the help alot here...

One more thing though... Was looking around partsexpress and noticed these little guys... Search Results ... Would any of those help out in my setup? Maybe make it easier/safer to run active or could I use any of those 2-way crossovers to run the speakers as a passive components set again? Thanks again... :peepwall:

Pwease... Someone... yell at me or tell me why any of those items are of no use or tell me why any of those items might be helpful??? cheers... :drink40:

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DON'T use those. :P

Really.

Either fix what you have, which shouldn't be hard. Use them as they are...although I'd want to check that they were working which if they'd respond with slopes wouldn't be terribly hard to do. Or of course run them active.

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lol... ok... fine... i did receive a response from ed that they will send me more information about my component set and stuff...

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Once they tell you the slope and crossover point it will be easier to trouble shoot.

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