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So yeah I am stuck, read plz.

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So I am stuck, cannot decide what to do or which direction to even go at this point, need some assistance and I will try to make this short as to avoid the TLDR syndrome.

To start off here is what I have currently in the vehicle (a 2009 Honda Fit), (2) Sundown SA 12’s wired to 1ohm on a SAZ1500D. They currently sit in a ported box that is 20”Hx31”Wx16”D, with (3) 4” aero ports 12” long, yielding a box of 4cuft net, tuned at 38Hz subs up port back. While this has been the loudest box I have built, it’s not the only one. I built another 17”x39.5”x16” with (1) 6” aero port tuned at 34Hz sub/port up, and finally another with the same dimensions however this last one was a slot port with 49.5sqin of port area subs up port back. The vehicle is a 2009 Honda Fit, this is a hatchback for those who do not know. The car has the big 3 done under the hood with 0 gauge, as well there is a Shuriken BT35 under the hood. 0 gauge runs to the back distributed to the two amps.

I have some money saved from my recent birthday and was going to buy new recones for the subs to put them at dual 2’s and the SPL coils. As well I was going to buy a HO alternator for the car from Tenney Alternators. However before going to those expenses I have been thinking I may need to change sub sizes down to a pair of tens to really get the output/sound I want. I would like the car to play lower (35Hz) very strongly, and I would also like to car to hit a decent 145 on a termlab, which I don’t think is too much to ask out of the equipment I have or I am just crazy and an old fart.

The MAXIMUM box size to leave 4 inches behind the box (leaving a space between the box and the hatch door) is 20”Hx39.5”Wx16”D. Giving me 5.9cuft before any displacement, and from the boxes I have done subs up port back is the loudest in this car. As I stated I am not against changing subs down to a pair of 10s, I just want the two things I listed solid play down to 35Hz and a fair spl of 145. Of course anything higher in SPL would be great but I think keeping my expectation lower is better at this point.

Right now I am looking at PSI Platform 1 10s with upgraded voice coils and stiffer spiders, but I know there are a TON literally of different subs out there so brand isn’t as important to me as performance and durability. Sundown has done well for me but just not sure if a pair of SA10’s is going to give me what I am looking for.

Any input is appreciated, if questions arise simply ask and I will answer them, and thanks for helping an old man out.

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Judging by the shape of the car, you should also have good results with sub up / port up.

Currently, I say the sub 35Hz poor performance is caused by the high tuning. Tune lower and it will gain down low.

Do you want it loud on music and also on a meter ?

Have you considered multiple subs sealed ? I've personally seen 140dB out of a sealed JL 13w6v2 on 1000w.

Cone area is your friend if you go sealed.

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GASCAN-red-copy.jpg

zippo-lighter1.jpg

J

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Right now I am thinking the 12s are just starved for breathing room in order to perform well. Hence I was considering going down to 2 10s. As for running sealed, not really liking that idea, ive had sealed way back in the day but for the amount of output I want ported is probably still the best option.

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Great and helpful post Godsmack, this is exactly why I RARELY post on forums asking questions, because I either get random nonsense or flamed. I guess I should expect it by now.

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two 12in Zcons with more power should do what you want. Good luck doing a 145 with two 10's in a low tuned box. I would do one 15 or two 12's with more power in the largest box possible tuned at 32hz.

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i would throw power power, either a bigger amp, or .25 ohms for burps,...those subs can take alot of power,

i would also remove the splitter on the power you stated you have.

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Great and helpful post Godsmack, this is exactly why I RARELY post on forums asking questions, because I either get random nonsense or flamed. I guess I should expect it by now.

Brother it's just a little sarcasm. All jokes aside, what about re-building to say a single 15? With more useable airspace for one woofer with a similar thermal power handling limit, you might get the results you are after. The other idea of 2 10's is not a bad one either, I would just be more leaned towards a bigger single sub. Bigjon also pushed a good idea with more power.

J

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I've been told the SAZ1500D will shine at .5ohm, so that was my initial thought to recone my 12s to dual 2s and get the SPL coils at the same time. However that doesn't address the tuning/space issue. I have thought of a single 15, however my depth issue is likely to hinder me using a 15 since my max depth is 16". As for 2 10s doing the desired output I think with subs being as advanced as they are today it really shouldn't be a problem. It's not like it was back in the early 2000s when subs were a lot different.

As for the power being split, I can change that slightly but I don't want to run another strand just for my 2ch running my mids and highs.

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How much NET airspace can you get for subs?

Dropping from 2 12"s to 2 10"s while maintaining same power output will most likely only result in a loss of output.

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The max dimensions are in the first post, 20"H x 39.5"W x 16"D which gives 5.9cuft net before displacement. As for going from 2 12s to 2 10s and losing output, as it stands I am only giving my saz1500d a 1ohm load, whatever path I take next sub wise will lower the load to .5ohm which will increase the power given to the subs.

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It won't increase the power enough to make up for the difference in cone area.

You should have enough airspace for 2 12"s, They want 3-4 cubes for the pair total.

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I agree with Swift.

I think a single zcon 15 would do what you want. Tune a little lower with more port area. I would even go as far to say to sacrifice the port back and make a larger box and port up.

Be advised the DCR is a little lower than the Sundown. I have a dual 2 ohm and it ohms .7 in parallel.

That 1500 is underrated and especially at a lower ohm value it should get quite loud.

Do you have a way to monitor voltage at the amp? You sure the electrical is strong? Sometimes even a weak ground will cause a poor output.

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The car has 0 gauge big three under the hood, with dual grounds frame/engine block. The ground in the back is also 0 gauge, it's the to body/frame under the rear seats. As for the rest, 95amp stock alternator currently, with a Shuriken BT35 battery under the hood. So yes the electrical could use some beefing up, I am looking at adding a 200amp Tenney Alternator just have to locate(as in find it not under my hood) my ELD and do a bypass on it. Also I think I have my 12s sold, so I will be changing subs for a while, the ones I am ordering will be decided soon, not 100% on which brand PSI etc but I am sticking with 12s and I am going to try a smaller box since everything I have made is 4cuft and up.

Shooting for 3cuft with 37.5 sq in of port tuned at 35Hz, using dual 2ohm subs getting .5ohm nominal on the SAZ1500D. If my subs do sell I will probably order the new subs/alternator at the same time since build time will be about the same for them both.

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I would do a larger port, more along the line of 18^2 per cube, instead of the 12.5^2 per cube where you are now.

Edited by bassahaulic

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Here is an idea. I have a gcon in a ported box in my van. its good on the meter for all the airspace it needs to eat. and it sounds hellish on music. i hit a 140 on a burp and 136 on music on 950w running to it with the gain knob half way up. i think in your honda you could hit what your looking for with a single 15 mine is D4 in a 5^3ft ported box tuned to 31 hz. I have vids on my build log and pictures if you want to check it out.

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