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spare69

Amplifier in protection HELP ASAP

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My amplifier randomly went into protect last night after i started the car, everything is hoked up right. This morning i unplugged the sub and it was still in protect, so i know it isnt the subwoofer. Then i unplugged the RCAS and it was still in protect. Then i redid the remote wire and restarted my HeadUnit and was still in protect......The Amplifier is a Hifonics BRZ 1700.1, They dont come fused and i did not have a fuse on it. Im also running it at 0.5 ohm. Im thinking its blown but im not sure. BTW it can handle 0.5 ohm no problem.....

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.5ohm without a fuse?   uh oh

 

yea the brz can "handle" .5ohm no problem, but not daily

 

Re-do your ground connection, maybe you will get lucky

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.5ohm without a fuse?   uh oh

 

yea the brz can "handle" .5ohm no problem, but not daily

 

Re-do your ground connection, maybe you will get lucky

well i mean, I had the hifonics 2500.1 hooked up at 0.5 ohm as daily for almost a year and no problems at all, and it has the same board as the brz1700. But yea  ill check the ground out maybe i could get lucky. I hope so....

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What's your electrical like? You should get a fuse inline fuse.

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What's your electrical like? You should get a fuse inline fuse.

im at 2 yellowtops and stock alt currently. But my voltage isnt dropping below 13.5 atm at full tilt....wierd i know but legit

My 2 runs of power wire from the front battery is of corse fused btw

Edited by spare69

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13.5 at full tilt? Hmm..

 

 

The 2 fused power wires are going to your batteries? Where is the power wire from the amp going to?

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you could also try discharging the capacitors in the amp

this is a troubleshooting method from the brz manual

 

remove all RCA’s and speaker wires from the amplifier. Take one 12” length of speaker wire, trim the plastic off of each end exposing the wire. Now connect one end of the wire to the 12V+ on the amplifier, and connect the other end of the wire to the Ground on the amplifier. You will have a brief spark indicating that the Capacitors have been discharged and the drivercard has been reset. Remove the jumper wire and reconnect your Power, Ground, and Remote wires. Attempt to power the amplifier up like normal. In some cases this can Reset the amplifier if permanent damage has not previously been done

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Amplifier not fused running at .5 ohm daily? Full tilt on a stock alternator? I am going to assume your voltage dipped well below 13.5 full tilt and did cause permanent damage to your amp. If it doesn't make sense, it's not true. What your amplifier has went through would be like you running in a hot sauna without a break. You would die too.

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i say you have been lucky for a long time now.. shit happens... its always fine untill its not. then its a problem.

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That's the problem with most voltage meters, they don't pick up the change in voltage quick enough.

If you had a analog voltmeter or a VM-1 you could probably see how low you are actually dropping.

Didn't anyone tell you it's stupid to run a amp at .5ohm or that you have to fuse everything if you don't want anything burning down.

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13.5 at full tilt? Hmm..

 

 

The 2 fused power wires are going to your batteries? Where is the power wire from the amp going to?

I have the main power wires going to the battery in the back. There is where the amp power wires come from. But the power wire for the amp is not fused.... 

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I just tried hooking it up in my friends car to make sure it wasnt some other problem and it did the same thing. I also opened up the amplifier and i didnt smell anything nor see any physical problems.

photo2.jpg

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You need to fuse your amp's power wire always. Actually all power wires should be fused.

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Amplifier not fused running at .5 ohm daily? Full tilt on a stock alternator? I am going to assume your voltage dipped well below 13.5 full tilt and did cause permanent damage to your amp. If it doesn't make sense, it's not true. What your amplifier has went through would be like you running in a hot sauna without a break. You would die too.

I put it at full tilt with my voltage meter on it....multiple times, 2 different meters....read the same thing.......Im not a dumbass who thinks he can put that much power on a stock system......im just stating what ive personally seen and wittnessed with my car....

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I just tried hooking it up in my friends car to make sure it wasnt some other problem and it did the same thing. I also opened up the amplifier and i didnt smell anything nor see any physical problems.

photo2.jpg

Try running it at a higher ohm load. Maybe the protect light is coming on because it's under 1 ohm.

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You need to fuse your amp's power wire always. Actually all power wires should be fused.

well im in the middle of a big install right now, and i ran out of fuses. I have the 2 fuseblocks for the amps, but no fuses.....fail......i thought id get away with it one more day without them

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The picture quality is too poor to see anything.

 

also, short out the caps and see if that fixes the problem.

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I just tried hooking it up in my friends car to make sure it wasnt some other problem and it did the same thing. I also opened up the amplifier and i didnt smell anything nor see any physical problems.

photo2.jpg

Try running it at a higher ohm load. Maybe the protect light is coming on because it's under 1 ohm.

My friends car is at 4 ohms so its still in protect

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The picture quality is too poor to see anything.

 

also, short out the caps and see if that fixes the problem.

YESSSSIR im on it right now, hopefully it will.

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can you discharge the amplifier while its not hooked up on anything?

(no wires at all)

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DO NOT TRY AND DISCHARGE THE AMP WHILE ITS HOOKED TO THE BATTERY!

 

 

REMOVE THE AMP COMPLETELY FROM THE CAR WITH NO WIRES ATTACHED!

 

 

Then, take a wire and connect it to the power and ground, wait for it to spark, when its done sparking, it's complete.

 

Then reinstall\rewire the amp back in the car and test again.

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ok just tried to discharge it....saw a spark.....hooked it up.....didnt do anything. Protect is still on

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I would say it's shot.

 

Either(assuming) too much current shot through the amp or too low voltage was present.

 

Or.. the input section is toast which may be the reason why you can't visibly see anything.

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shizz, you think its repairable for a decent price? (meaning cheaper than a new amp?)

if yes, do you know anyone?

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Ill post a few better quality pictures tomorrow of the amp. Maybe you guys will see something i dont

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