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Dexter Chaos

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Well yesterday finally got descent weather to let the kids play outside so I can work on my build.

 

Yesterday I was able to start with the sound deadner I had purchased several months ago.

I am going to have to order more I did not have enough. Also I am going to order the SDS deadner next time. I have read alot of good things about don and his product and he responeded within hours of my email about his products.

 

enough talking here are my pics. So excited to get this started.

 

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First piece!!!!

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My Helpers!!!

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You should check Don's website for info. That is not an effective way to deaden.

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So today double checked yesterdays install.

 

Mail Man arrived with a package!!!!adhd.gif adhd.gif

 

KnuCocepts....Wiring Yes!!!!

 

 

This stuff is crazy heavy. I have never used 0 gauge  before. This wire is amazing. Super flexable too.

Had to drill a hole while running wire but its ready. Here are some pics.

 

Arrival of Box!!!!

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This Stuff is HUGE!!! Holy Cow

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Amazing the size difference

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Everything removed for wire install

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You should check Don's website for info. That is not an effective way to deaden.

 

Explain

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You should check Don's website for info. That is not an effective way to deaden.

 

Explain

Check Don's website. The knowledge is there.

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You should check Don's website for info. That is not an effective way to deaden.

 

Explain

Check Don's website. The knowledge is there.

link?

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You should check Don's website for info. That is not an effective way to deaden.

 

Explain

Check Don's website. The knowledge is there.

So with what I have read so far I need to cover the bottom 1/3 of my car. Window line down. Still reading.

Have I missed anything yet.

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You only need 25% coverage of that dynamat. Lining the whole trunk is overkill and a waste of product.

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Panel resonance is easily tamed by a small amount of deadener, you want to invest your money into things like MLV and closed cell foam to attack airborne resonance.

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Panel resonance is easily tamed by a small amount of deadener, you want to invest your money into things like MLV and closed cell foam to attack airborne resonance.

 

I figured it was overkill actually but its done now. I would like to seal trunk off once I get box built and installed.  I am assuming this will help right?

 

Also it was recommended that I make 2 runs of 1/0 off my front battery to my rear battery. Then two runs off back battery, one to each amp. Is this excessive?

 

I have 2 XS D3400 should be here on monday for power. one for front and one for rear.Also I am installing 2 crescendo BC2000D strapped  to power 2 Zcons.

 

I plan on upgrading alt but funds not there yet. I am needing to order more wire for Big 3 upgrade and if I needed to make this second run I would like to order it all at once.

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Oh yea....

 

Are there any reasons why you wouldn't choose a circruit breaker over a fuse?

I read somewhere that the circuit breakers are rated differently than the fuse any truth to this?

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1 run of 1/0 from front to back.

1 run from battery in the back to each amp. 2 is overkill

Don't use 1/0 for big 3 - the distance is not that great and a thinner wire works as good.

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I personally like fuses myself. I am not a fan of circuit breakers and fuses are cheap enough. 

 

If you're talking about my comment about 2 runs of 1/0 in your other thread, I suggested that because you're right at the limit of what a single run of 1/0 can handle; which is roughly 300 amps of current up to about 18'. If your run is longer, the capacity it can handle drops.

 

You have 4k rms of just sub amps, which will draw about 289 amps of current at 13.8 volts. 4000/13.8 = 289.85 amps. So a single run will work but not leave much headroom. If you have say a 300 watt amp for the highs, it will be 311 amps of current. 4300/13.8 = 311.59 amps. As I said, the single run will work but if you've got enough cable to do 2 runs, it would be beneficial in my opinion. It also gives you room for upgrades in the future.

 

I say use 1/0 for the Big 3 as well, especially if you plan on upgrading the alternator in the future. As The End mentioned, they are short runs and smaller gauge will suffice but being so short the cost do to 1/0 vs 2 or 4 gauge isn't that much different and it will give you the least resistance possible. Plus it's done at that point, if you upgrade in the future you won't have to do the Big 3 over again if you do it in 1/0 the first time. 

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The whole watts/voltage=amps will work, if there is 0 voltage drop and the amps are 100% efficient. Which is not the case.

 

For the current setup even, if he upgrades the alternator, 1 run should be OK. If money is not that big of a problem, go for 2 runs, 4K is a lot of power and you should definitely get a better alternator and do the wiring properly.

 

But with a stock or ~150A alternator , 1 run is fine. You are going to have a battery next to the amplifiers too, not all of your charge bank will be up front.

 

What I would personally do:

Get everything wired up and crank it up(maybe a sine wave, so the voltage stays the same through a longer period of time). Measure voltage at the front - both battery and alternator. Then measure what the amplifiers are seeing. If there is a good amount of a difference between the back and front voltage - you have voltage drop. Then you can upgrade the wires.

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once C/bs trip they become trip happy.

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looking at the VM-1 for a volt meter. vs. the stinger model. Are there any issues with using the VM-1? I just noticed alot of people us teh stinger model.

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Speaker box material... I have been told to use Mdf. I have seen other types of wood use as well, what are these other types?

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I've not used either volt meter so I can't say which is better but the wood question I can answer some people use 3/4" birch plywood instead of MDF. I am guessing that is what you've seen.  

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Stinger voltmeter is fine. I calibrated it with my fluke and ran them parallel to test and works fine. Some people hate them for whatever reason.

Best material in my opinion is 13 ply baltic birch. It only comes in 5' sheets and is a little pricey compared to other materials. Also not that easy to find. Depends on where you live.

MDF is ok. Most birch from lowes, home depot etc is pine with birch veneer. 99 percent of it has voids. Some people use it anyway and either layer or brace the hell out of it. Arauco ply is another option and is void free.

Downside to MDF is it soaks water like a sponge. Easy to chip and break corners. Dust is funky. You have to predrill holes and easy to strip.

Upside is it is easy to work with. Void free. Cheap. Can get about anywhere.

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Got a package today!!!!!!

What could it be?

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A little power adjustment

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OH YES  excited to see this.

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headed to storage for now..

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Also to add to dbsupra, Baltic birch is lighter too. With that batt, 3 amps, and 2 50lb subs it's going to be around 225 lbs. then a big ass box for the subs will be pretty heavy too. I had a very similar system as you. Same subs and bass amps with a c1100.4 and a bigger battery though.

This is what made me get rid of my system the weight was sagging down my car really bad. I'm not sure if you thought about this or not. Do you have suspension upgrades?

To help reduce weight Baltic birch would probably be a good place to start. In my area it's $34 for a 4x8 sheet of mdf. I called a lumber yard near me and they said they can order 13 ply Baltic birch for $75 for me. It's really not that much of a difference and can help save some weight. Also try to keep things like battery closer to above the tires.

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Been looking at air helpers. Found a couple places that sell them and not to badly priced. I have used these on my trucks when hauling trailers. I felt it helped even smooth put my ride on the truck when i wasnt towing. I will let you know what I find out.

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I am trying to look for new springs  to use on the struts. Can anyone help me with my search? not having much luck

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So I am concerned with weight. I have sent some requests out and waiting on replys to see where my suspension upgrades will range from.

 

This was my plan on my orginal setup:

 

2-Zcon or Xcon 12 D2 subs

2-crescendo BC2000d strapped(already own)

2-XS BC3400D batteries(already own)

Multiple runs of knuconcepts 0 gauge oxy free(already comlpleted

Alternator upgrade

 

Front sound stage to follow:

 

New Idea

I like what I have read and seen only in video of the SA8-v2 sub. I think its pretty amazing for such a small sub. So this was my thought. I would use 4 of these subs in a ported enclsoure.  I would end up with more cone area than 2 15's. Possible save a few pounds to.

 

Opinions, thoughts, Ideas

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