2 12" RL-P's...what are they comparable to?

[MarAha 0]

i was interested at first in 2 12" Resonant Engineering SXs or XXX's and then just a few days ago their prices basically tripled

so i went crazy looking through the internet for something cheaper ($500 ot under for 2 12" subs) and i heard about the RL-Ps on other forums and heard nothing but good things about them. and $440 for 2 subs, if theyre REAL good is amazing to me..

now honestly i dont know much about systems...this is gonna be my first one (i read alot about them though and know many people with a system). and im reading the description for the RL-Ps and it says 500 watts rms. the XXX i was hoping for was 1600 rms. now just reading that makes me think the RL-P is ALOT weaker. but reading about these subs, it seems like im wrong....(forgive me if i am, i never heard of these subs til today and dont know anything about them)

can someone let me know though on what other subs they can be comparable to and if theyre anywhere near the XXXs level?(the old style XXX...not the new monsters)

also...if i get them, what amp can you recommend thats under $250 to make them hit as hard as possible?....without risking the chance of blowing them of course haha

by the way...i got a 2005 Grand Am (hope 2 of these would fit in there)

Edited May 7, 2006 by MarAha

[mrray13 30]

first...welcome to the forum bro!!

ok...

i've owned teh old xxx and still own the rl-p, kinda tell ya something?

anyway, it's like this. the rl-p is underrated, but it won't hold the power the xxx will. is it weaker? no, it makes up for it in other areas. the most power i would recommend for a 12" rl-p is about 1200wrms. does it need it? nope. 5-750 would be perfect.

box is going to determine alot of what your sub achieves. go sealed, shoot for around 1-1.25ft^3. ported, aim a bit bigger, 1.5-2ft^3 with a minimum of 25in^2 of port (if you slot port it) tuned from 28-34hz. we'll help ya out if ya need it.

amp, well, anything from about 1500wrms to around 2000wrms will be perfect for the rl-ps. too lazy at the moment to look things up..pm flakko about a USAmp.

warranty is one year IIRC. customer service is beyond anything you'll ever experience online again. mike is that good.

h2h with an xxx, the rl-p got lower and damn near as loud. it took a larger ported box for the xxx to compete on the down lows. even then the rl-p stood it's ground. double kicks to test tones, the rl-p was right with or ahead of the old xxx. it's power handling and the potential to get loud is where the xxx was a bit better sub. but that's not taking anything away from the rl-p, lol, they'll get silly loud. a pair is just awesome.

are they worth $450? you bet your ass they are!! and a pair will thump many a sub out there that costs 4 times as much.

again, welcome to the board bro!!!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[007 0]

i was interested at first in 2 12" Resonant Engineering SXs or XXX's and then just a few days ago their prices basically tripled

so i went crazy looking through the internet for something cheaper ($500 ot under for 2 12" subs) and i heard about the RL-Ps on other forums and heard nothing but good things about them. and $440 for 2 subs, if theyre REAL good is amazing to me..

now honestly i dont know much about systems...this is gonna be my first one (i read alot about them though and know many people with a system). and im reading the description for the RL-Ps and it says 500 watts rms. the XXX i was hoping for was 1600 rms. now just reading that makes me think the RL-P is ALOT weaker. but reading about these subs, it seems like im wrong....(forgive me if i am, i never heard of these subs til today and dont know anything about them)

can someone let me know though on what other subs they can be comparable to and if theyre anywhere near the XXXs level?(the old style XXX...not the new monsters)

also...if i get them, what amp can you recommend thats under $250 to make them hit as hard as possible?....without risking the chance of blowing them of course haha

by the way...i got a 2005 Grand Am (hope 2 of these would fit in there)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

lets me see if I can shed some light here. The RLp's are rated at what? 500 watts? They can and have been proven to take more. It is true that newbie

[007 0]

i was interested at first in 2 12" Resonant Engineering SXs or XXX's and then just a few days ago their prices basically tripled

so i went crazy looking through the internet for something cheaper ($500 ot under for 2 12" subs) and i heard about the RL-Ps on other forums and heard nothing but good things about them. and $440 for 2 subs, if theyre REAL good is amazing to me..

now honestly i dont know much about systems...this is gonna be my first one (i read alot about them though and know many people with a system). and im reading the description for the RL-Ps and it says 500 watts rms. the XXX i was hoping for was 1600 rms. now just reading that makes me think the RL-P is ALOT weaker. but reading about these subs, it seems like im wrong....(forgive me if i am, i never heard of these subs til today and dont know anything about them)

can someone let me know though on what other subs they can be comparable to and if theyre anywhere near the XXXs level?(the old style XXX...not the new monsters)

also...if i get them, what amp can you recommend thats under $250 to make them hit as hard as possible?....without risking the chance of blowing them of course haha

by the way...i got a 2005 Grand Am (hope 2 of these would fit in there)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

well said, btw, is new RE XXX that really tall black subwoofer with yellow spider and a half dome poll cap?

[Adrian_D 520]

new xxx :

http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos/REAudio/xxx12.28.wmv

http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos/REAudio/xxx12.29.wmv

http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos/REAudio/xxx12.30.wmv

[MarAha 0]

In a small sealed box, the RLp

[Hitman 0]

so sayin that right there (remember i dont know much about systems)...you would go with it sealed instead of ported?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hello every1, new to the forum, not to the audio game though

It all depends on what type of response your looking for, as well as how much trunk space you're personally willing to use. Dont think for a second that the power you put into a sub is the main factor of how loud it will get. 95% is in how the box is built.

A sealed setup will sound more flat, its mostly used for SQ purposes, and would work better if you dont want to use as much trunk space.

A ported setup is a bit different, one major thing about ported boxes is the efficiency. You could put 300rms to each sub in a ported box (one thats well built anyway) and have it get as loud as a sealed setup using 2x the power. Just an example.

The biggest difference is that ported setups take much more room, and are a bit more complicated to setup correctly compared to a sealed setup. More math involved, ect...

As far as port tuning goes, well every1 has their own personal preferences, the lower you tune a box the more space the port will take up but it will have a very strong low end. Lets say 27hz, the higher you tune it the more SPL oriented the setup will be but you'll lose some low end, say 38hz and up.

Personally I like setting a tuning freq around 30-35hz, still gets damn loud and sounds well doing it.

There are a few online programs you can DL (WinISD<free, bassboxpro<cost you a bit) that would help you setup an enclosure.

Just make sure you get a well built box regardless of which route you choose to take. Get some1 to build it for you if you dont feel like messing with it, regardless dont get a prefab. The box makes a big diff.

This forum, as well as places such as carstereos.org both have A LOT of useful info & ppl that know what they are talking about.

[ANeonRider 3]

Good post Hitman.

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

welcome hitman

[Hitman 0]

welcome hitman

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Good post Hitman.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks.

[007 0]

Sealed is typically less efficient, and the reason it takes more power is because the air inside the box acts as a spring because it has no where to go when you push or pull the diaphragm. try pushing a syringe while plugging the end. Same idea. It requires more power to move the driver. How can it take more power? Well, the driver now has to do more work because it has an extra force pushing and pulling on it. Power is typically limited by the suspension (max power) and RMS is typically how fast the voice coil can cool and take on a continuous amount of power.

does that help or just confuse you? Sorry, im tired.

Edited May 8, 2006 by 7