First install in a while, need help & suggestions.

[mbarber25 29]

I used to frequent this site quite a bit as a young basshead, but adulthood changes things as most of you probably know.  I still have passion and love for bass and I'm excited to finally be able to put a system back in my car as I'll be driving a lot for my new job.  I know the basics of car audio to an extent, but still need some help with some elementary questions and decisions.

The plan is to install my 12" SSA GCON powered by a Sundown SAZ-1000D that I ran in my Jeep a few years ago in my current car which is a 2014 Accord.  What I do need is a line out converter, a secondary battery, and wiring for the big three upgrade.  Here's what it looks like in the trunk as of now:

 

Now here's what I need help on:

1. It seems like the stock electrical system is weak and wouldn't even handle 500 watts without dimming.  My initial thought is to do the big three in 1/0 and go with an XS Power XP750 as my secondary.  Should I even bother doing the big three?  I'd rather not do too much in order to save money and this won't be my car for too too long, but I'd also rather not fry my alternator and have a system that dims everything.

2. When I ran a secondary battery in the past I had a 250 amp battery isolator to go with it.  Is an isolator necessary?  Or will using a fuse between the main battery and secondary battery, and then another fuse between the secondary battery and the amp do the job?  I remember hearing issues about secondary batteries battling the main battery for a charge when the car was off.  What's the best way to approach installing the secondary battery?

3. There's no way I'm doing an aftermarket head unit, so it seems like line out converters are the best bet in these scenarios.  If I'm correct, where is the best place to tap in?  Directly behind the stock head unit or off of the rear speakers?  Do these things kill sound quality.  Is there any tuning involved on the actual little piece of hardware?

4. I'm definitely going to have to do some sound deadening since this car already rattles.  What brands are you guys using these days that are the best bang for your buck?  I used Second Skin back in the day when they were fairly new so I was considering them again.

 

It's good to be back.  Thanks for any help and input peeps 

Edited December 21, 2016 by mbarber25

[jcarter1885 995]

Hey man welcome back. If I remember you had the 15" BTL and Sundown amp.

 

1. I would at least do a couple of grounds in bigger awg if not going to do a full big 3. Since I never had an ho alt, I have never messed with adding batt to alternator wires and it still helped.

2. I was always told you only need an isolator if you play with car off a lot or idling. Some say it can cause drainage and others say not that much to be a concern if so. I would upgrade my front battery first and see if a secondary battery is even needed.

3. Sorry no help here.

4. Sounddeadnershowdown or as you already said Second Skin.

[mbarber25 29]

7 minutes ago, jcarter1885 said:

Hey man welcome back. If I remember you had the 15" BTL and Sundown amp.

 

1. I would at least do a couple of grounds in bigger awg if not going to do a full big 3. Since I never had an ho alt, I have never messed with adding batt to alternator wires and it still helped.

2. I was always told you only need an isolator if you play with car off a lot or idling. Some say it can cause drainage and others say not that much to be a concern if so. I would upgrade my front battery first and see if a secondary battery is even needed.

3. Sorry no help here.

4. Sounddeadnershowdown or as you already said Second Skin.

Yup that's me, good memory dude.  I never play with the car off, nor do I bump when I'm idling.  I would even turn the bass down at stoplights to ease the strain on my electrical when I did have a setup in my car.  I would be happy with not having to do an isolator.  I'm on the fence about replacing the stock battery, but I didn't even really consider it until now.

Thanks for your help.  

[jcarter1885 995]

That would be your best bet, an AGM battery under the hood will work with only 1000 watts. Do you plan to add anymore power or a mids\amp in the future?

If not then the wiring will be simple as well, just a positive from front battery to the amp in the rear is all that is needed. With a fuse after the battery another one before the amplifier.

 

 

[Billy Jack 145]

I'm running a JL 13w7 off a HD1200/1 in my dodge with nothing but a 4 gauge ran back to a shriken 1k capable secondary battery in my trunk and I don't have any light dimming unless I just go hard for over a hour straight so I would think you should be fine on a 1000 watts with just a good secondary battery. Now I do have a small run of 1/0 from the secondary battery to the amp but the 4 gauge ofc stinger wire and stock electrical feeds it fine. But I will say my dodge is fairly new so my electrical could be better then yours. Best thing to do is check your voltage after you get everything going and upgrade if you need to. 

[mbarber25 29]

18 minutes ago, jcarter1885 said:

That would be your best bet, an AGM battery under the hood will work with only 1000 watts. Do you plan to add anymore power or a mids\amp in the future?

If not then the wiring will be simple as well, just a positive from front battery to the amp in the rear is all that is needed. With a fuse after the battery another one before the amplifier.

 

 

Very unlikely that I add any mids or another amp in this vehicle.  I'll probably start by just doing the basic like you mentioned, but my hunch is that the stock electrical system isn't going to cut it.  You should see the stock battery, it's tiny.

[mbarber25 29]

16 minutes ago, Billy Jack said:

I'm running a JL 13w7 off a HD1200/1 in my dodge with nothing but a 4 gauge ran back to a shriken 1k capable secondary battery in my trunk and I don't have any light dimming unless I just go hard for over a hour straight so I would think you should be fine on a 1000 watts with just a good secondary battery. Now I do have a small run of 1/0 from the secondary battery to the amp but the 4 gauge ofc stinger wire and stock electrical feeds it fine. But I will say my dodge is fairly new so my electrical could be better then yours. Best thing to do is check your voltage after you get everything going and upgrade if you need to. 

Yea I may do that, start with the basics and then go from there.  At the same time, I'd still rather just do it from the beginning and do everything all at once.  It may be overkill, but I'll have peace of mind.

[Billy Jack 145]

59 minutes ago, mbarber25 said:

Yea I may do that, start with the basics and then go from there.  At the same time, I'd still rather just do it from the beginning and do everything all at once.  It may be overkill, but I'll have peace of mind.

No such thing as over kill when it comes to electrical, more is always better, and will do a good job of holding a stable voltage. Now to much wattage to a sub isn't good, but even then, I would rather have a little to much clean wattage then not enough dirty clipped wattage. I can't count the times I have seen people blow amps and subs from running to small a amp, way to hard, all the while their asking me, how I get away with running 1k over rms with never a problem.  I will always try and get a bigger amp and turn my gains down to get that clean un distorted sound. I'm gonna try and run a ampere 3800 or a sundown 3k on my btl and it's only rated for 2500rms. 

[///M5 2,833]

Overkill is not always better.  I'd first measure your voltage and see how low it is.  You may just have sensitive headlights....aftermarket bulbs are notorious for that.

With only 500w the stock battery and nearly stock wiring should be fine.  It is always good to beef up the weakest link in the chain, but no reason to spend a crap ton on wiring that you don't need.  1/0 is way overkill.

[mbarber25 29]

1 minute ago, ///M5 said:

Overkill is not always better.  I'd first measure your voltage and see how low it is.  You may just have sensitive headlights....aftermarket bulbs are notorious for that.

With only 500w the stock battery and nearly stock wiring should be fine.  It is always good to beef up the weakest link in the chain, but no reason to spend a crap ton on wiring that you don't need.  1/0 is way overkill.

The headlights are stock as of now, but I do plan on doing HIDs in the future.  I will be using 4 gauge wiring and will be running a Sundown 1000.  

I thought the general rule was to use a secondary batt for 1000w and up?  Should I use one?  Or it sounds like install the sub/amp and then see where my voltage is at?

[Notorious97200 339]

If your stock battery is so tiny, get a bigger one as a secondary. Or try to replace the stock one with a bigger one first.

 

Running 750 to 1000 watts to a good sub in a good box, you will not be able to enjoy the mids and highs, or  to use a HPF.

I would try to install a 2 or 4 channel amp. You can find really cheap amps, you don't need a lot of power. Your head unit won't "give" more than 20 watts per channel usually (at full tilt).

A 2 x 50 amplifier or 4 x 50 will do the job. Some cost less than $100 brand new.

 

[mbarber25 29]

31 minutes ago, Notorious97200 said:

If your stock battery is so tiny, get a bigger one as a secondary. Or try to replace the stock one with a bigger one first.

 

Running 750 to 1000 watts to a good sub in a good box, you will not be able to enjoy the mids and highs, or  to use a HPF.

I would try to install a 2 or 4 channel amp. You can find really cheap amps, you don't need a lot of power. Your head unit won't "give" more than 20 watts per channel usually (at full tilt).

A 2 x 50 amplifier or 4 x 50 will do the job. Some cost less than $100 brand new.

 

I just ordered an XS Power XP750.  I'm going to leave the stock one for now since it's pretty new.

I'm willing to sacrifice the mids and highs to an extent but if they really get drowned out I'll definitely look into amping up the door speakers.  Could I amp up the stock ones?

Also, what do you think of this line out converter?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_94272_Rockford-Fosgate-Universal-Punch-EQ-RFPEQU.html

Does it allow for a mids/highs amp down the road?

 

Thanks