What Fi sub...

[Guest JimCal]

Hey everyone. Right now I have a 1000Watt Alpine amp. the MRD-M1005. I had a 12" Type R in a sealed box but the other day it blew. I've heard alot of good stuff about Fi Car Audio. I don't have a ton of money to dump into a new system and all. So i was wondering if anyone knew of a sub that would sound really good with the Alpine MRD-M1005 hooked up to it. I know I would need a new box and all. Just not sure what Fi sub would be better and what options to get for it. Please let me know. Thanks...

[theabunai 3]

12" SSD with the BP option or the flatwind...

Great for sealed and with the BP option can handle the 1k easily and leave you room for an upgraded amp later.....

[JimJ 11]

I'd figure out why the Type R blew before buying another sub, myself

[JimCal 0]

I'd figure out why the Type R blew before buying another sub, myself

Yeah I have no idea what did it.

I have a complete alpine system. I have Alpine Type R component speakers, Type R 6x9's the Alpine 4 channel MRV-F345 amp the Alpine MRD-M1005 amp, the alpine CDA-9857 headunit and the 12" type R. I figured they would all work well together. Obviously not. The only thing I could think of that would have blown the sub would be overpowering it with the gain up to high. But the gain is set to .7 out of a possible 8. So i'm not sure and I don't know to much about this stuff anyways to diagnos the problem. When it blew, I was listening to my Ipod at volume 25 out of a possible 35 and the bass was working fine. I pushed the next button and I'm Shinin' (a bass song) came on, but not one note a bass came from the sub. I dunno what happened.. It sucks...

[JimCal 0]

12" SSD with the BP option or the flatwind...

Great for sealed and with the BP option can handle the 1k easily and leave you room for an upgraded amp later.....

My current box was made custom from Tweeter for the Alpine Type R 12". The box is a single layer MDF box. If I were to get the SSD being the lower model i'm assuming it would work. If I were to get the 12" Q, would that need a double layer of MDF on the front of the box? The box I have is 1.2 cuft.

[JimCal 0]

it blew because u gave it 1000 watts in a sealed box..lol..wouldve took it fine if in a ported box..

The Type R is 4 ohms. When the Alpine MRD-M1005 operates with a 4 ohm sub it powers it with 500 Watts. Thats as far a I know.

[theabunai 3]

But the gain is set to .7 out of a possible 8

.7 is actually very very high... you probably had the gain way to high.....

The way amp gains work (to my knowledge) is the lower the number on the amp gain the more gain you get...

reason is the setting of .7 on the amp means that the decks output voltage is .7 so the amp will off set it by providing more power....

If the deck output were 8 (8volt pre-outs) then the amp would put out less gain since the HU voltage is so high... so setting the amp to 8 would yield less gain and strain..

Find out your decks output voltage (i'm guessing it's aroun 2volts) and match the amps gain accordingly....

As for the SSD and Q regarding the MDF...

Is the box 3/4" or 1/2" ?

Regardless if it is a Q or SSD with 1k watts (if you plan on using it in that manner) and the box is 1/2" MDF I would consider adding another baffle for 1k watts as it would almost surely flex...

Also SSD is not a lower model it's a different model. the model does not affect the subs ability to flex a box... what does is power and the enclosure specifications....

I can give a BTL full optioned out 100 watts and it wouldn't flex the box much. It's not the model of the sub that determins flex but power and enclosure that does.....

[JimCal 0]

Find out your decks output voltage (i'm guessing it's aroun 2volts) and match the amps gain accordingly....

Ok. So i just read that the Alpine CDA-9857 has 3 x preouts . So your saying the gain should be matched to that being '3' . I love how I paid Tweeter to install the entire system. Ended up costing $1,038.71 for the install and wiring and Ipod wire and that crap. And they can't even set it right.

And for the new sub issue. I was edging toward the 12" Q. But I don't have any professional knowledge of any of them. With the 1000watt amp and most likely a sealed box, i'm guessing on what i've read that the Q would sound 'louder' in bass.

[theabunai 3]

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-mi0lWL1LwuC/c...=500CDA9857#Tab

Scroll down where you see

Preamp Voltage 2 volts

So what you got is 3 sets of 2volt pre-amp outputs

that means your amp gain should be set around 2 volts

This is called "gain matching"

here is a good a article http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=3704

that's to do it even more precise...

but the above method is a ball park type setting...

I don't think the "Q" will be louder then the SSD in bass... if anything it won't be heard by the ear...

The Q has the potential to have a better SQ output then the SSD...

but bass for bass low for low loud for loud that is all install and enclosure dependent...

[ngsm13 1]

it blew because u gave it 1000 watts in a sealed box..lol..wouldve took it fine if in a ported box..

Are you an idiot?

nG

[JimCal 0]

I don't think the "Q" will be louder then the SSD in bass... if anything it won't be heard by the ear...

The Q has the potential to have a better SQ output then the SSD...

but bass for bass low for low loud for loud that is all install and enclosure dependent...

Ok. So from what I've read on here is that a loudish sounding sub for my 1000watt amp would be the 12" Q in a ported box, at about 2 cuft.

[tprj82 4]

I don't think the "Q" will be louder then the SSD in bass... if anything it won't be heard by the ear...

The Q has the potential to have a better SQ output then the SSD...

but bass for bass low for low loud for loud that is all install and enclosure dependent...

Ok. So from what I've read on here is that a loudish sounding sub for my 1000watt amp would be the 12" Q in a ported box, at about 2 cuft.

ssd's get loud to

[Fi Car Audio 64]

How much space are you willing to use for an enclosure?

[JimCal 0]

How much space are you willing to use for an enclosure?

Honestly I dont want something to big. But im not sure what to big would look like. Its going in a 2003 Eclipse so the hatch should make the sub a little louder than the tradional sedan. I like loud bass but dont want to replace the entire system, just the blown sub. I'm not sure what sub would be best and I def. dont know what size box to use, nor sealed or ported. With my old type r in, I had plenty of room for a bigger box. Because I valued my money, I never put anything in my trunk/hatch. So I guess whatever you think would sound the best. Your the experts thats what im looking for...

Edited May 30, 2007 by JimCal

[JoshHd6 0]

it blew because u gave it 1000 watts in a sealed box..lol..wouldve took it fine if in a ported box..

Are you an idiot?

nG

lol..i didnt know it was a dual 4...

[///M5 2,833]

it blew because u gave it 1000 watts in a sealed box..lol..wouldve took it fine if in a ported box..

Are you an idiot?

nG

lol..i didnt know it was a dual 4...

The voice coils actually have nothing to do with his statement.

[JimJ 11]

it blew because u gave it 1000 watts in a sealed box..lol..wouldve took it fine if in a ported box..

Maybe you should read more before trying to give "advice" again.

I knew there was a reason I banned you from CA.com.

[///M5 2,833]

Heck please don't just read more to give advice, a little hands on practice would be a novel idea for ya.

[JimJ 11]

I'd figure out why the Type R blew before buying another sub, myself

Yeah I have no idea what did it.

I have a complete alpine system. I have Alpine Type R component speakers, Type R 6x9's the Alpine 4 channel MRV-F345 amp the Alpine MRD-M1005 amp, the alpine CDA-9857 headunit and the 12" type R. I figured they would all work well together. Obviously not. The only thing I could think of that would have blown the sub would be overpowering it with the gain up to high. But the gain is set to .7 out of a possible 8. So i'm not sure and I don't know to much about this stuff anyways to diagnos the problem. When it blew, I was listening to my Ipod at volume 25 out of a possible 35 and the bass was working fine. I pushed the next button and I'm Shinin' (a bass song) came on, but not one note a bass came from the sub. I dunno what happened.. It sucks...

So you've pulled out the sub and checked to see that the coil was fried, or spider damaged, etc...

A sub blowing, like a fuse blowing, is indicative of problems elsewhere, and that's what I meant by my comment to find out what took out the R before buying another driver that might do the same thing.

[ngsm13 1]

I was going to say something else, but my buddie's Jim and M5 have pretty much already summed it up...

nG

[JimCal 0]

So you've pulled out the sub and checked to see that the coil was fried, or spider damaged, etc...

A sub blowing, like a fuse blowing, is indicative of problems elsewhere, and that's what I meant by my comment to find out what took out the R before buying another driver that might do the same thing.

All i know is when it went, there was something rattling inside the sub(when bass should be coming out, not something loose without the bass but something rattling when the sub should be pounding...), and when I unscrewed it and took the sub out of the box... damn there was a lot of smoke... Now, if i were to push in the sub and let it come back out, its reallly really rough and doesnt go in much.