10 Inch Alum Woofer Good for IB

[Howlowd 0]

Im looking for a ten inch alum woofer to get a little more detail in the front. I would like to lower the tuning frequency on my 15 and looking to add 2 10s to blend with my germaniums then moving to the kicks (Only use two of the four mids).

Main thing would have to be able to run IB as my doors are deadened and sealed pretty well. I used plexi to seal off any compartmental openings and then prayed a window motor never goes out but essentially im working on my processing now and think this would be a good step forward prior to making my selections.

THanks for any recommendations.

I currently use two 3/4 mdf spacers and reflex pads. figure i can get away with the tens ...my main goal is to not have to replace the current mids

dont want the hassle of selling the gems

Edited February 2, 2008 by Howlowd

[JimJ 11]

Well, if I were you I'd get rid of the 15" and if you're running 10's in the doors to use them as both midbass and subbass...the Germs would have to be on-axis.

[Supa_c 1]

The only 10's that come to my mind are TC-7's

They will run IB, but they need a fair amount of space. There is a guy up in the Wentache, WA area who has some he wanted to sell.

Not shure if this would be the idea woofer though.

http://web.archive.org/web/20070221053840/...nds.com/tc7.htm

Some info if you were curious

[Howlowd 0]

that was the point of the kicks. in choosing initially i went with the 465s for the four mid option. Really happy with the sound for the two years that Ive had them, and have been looking at goig to a domed mid setup, but with looking to deploy in a bit figure it would be a nice project just to build on what i have rather than the dyns i like.

i considered yanking the fifteen but would still like to have that around for when we watch movies or play games in the car. love for it to kick in then and its easily enough defeated for musicality day to day.

currently eying making new door panels and think that the tens in the front would bring more focus. even open to really strong 8s.

[Howlowd 0]

and thanks for the recommendation supa c. a little more .....weight?...than i was looking for

[///M5 2,833]

I wouldn't use a sub in the doors, the weight will kill you.

I'd use one of the Seas drivers, considering it is just for midbass personally I'd probably lean on the L26.

**note I haven't heard them in a 10, but the L22 is sweet.

[///M5 2,833]

I should add that I have a boner to try these in the same sort of application, but they are pretty deep and a bit heavy for doors.

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...3478051916e06b8

[subwoofery 0]

Don't fire me but I think that instead of using a ten,

You could use the new midbass from Audiopulse 8"

http://www.audiopulse.com/products/components/rmb

Xmax 10mm -- 200w RMS -- SPL 91.3 -- FS 42Hz

Just not sure from the specs if it'll work in IB config. Just my 2 cents

[ANeonRider 3]

Peerless XLS 10" please

[sqguy 0]

I don't remember, I posted on one of the threads about 8s in doors. But there is a shallow 10" sub I was looking at that has a flat response much like the Peerless except lower. Mind you can't go very high with it like an 8, but it looked great on paper for a midbass.

It's this one, a TB neo. Check out the chart up to say 200Hz+.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=264-862

Q is pretty low, price not bad, power handling not huge but how much do you need on midbass with the efficiency of a 10...88db. Well I have no idea how it would work but sure looks like a fun one to try for doors if you have the room. Really with a 10 a somewhat sealed door should have a box type effect long as you are not trying for 30Hz. Yeah they smooth those factory charts too but sure is much flatter than most others and it digs; looks like ~40Hz -3db.

Edited February 3, 2008 by sqguyib

[ANeonRider 3]

You really want a mid-range Q IB in the door IMO (.4-.6), otherwise it will sound very bloated & uncontrolled. Power handling really isn't an issue. Mechanical handling is.

[sqguy 0]

I used to say that, but now the line seems to be pretty blurry. People are using low Q drivers in HT IB all the time. I never have so I can't say, but can say it is harder to run a sub IB that has a higher Fs. In the old days that was a light weight coned driver with a higher Q. Just guessing but the door enclosure might add some support to a 10, and without <50Hz it might not be so bad. One could also do some aperiodic behind it but in the end I would like to try it if my car fit them so I could tell you. My 12s seem to work fine, they have Qts .48. I must max at about 100wrms each and they don't move much. Factory says half power for IB that is 150wrms each.

[Howlowd 0]

Ive got kicks in now and looking at redoing the drivers side currently. Im VERY happy with the germs, just need more kick.

///M5

WOuld you recommend going with the 26 or do you think the 22s would be sufficient? In DIY about all ive used are some old vifas, and although ive heard alot about seas I have yet to set anything up with them.

The tang band looks like it would be worth trying just for the amount, would be something to do just because. Guess i could use that as an initial and at least get the clearance issues sorted.

Neon Rider,

that peerless is a monster....would really have to get a little bit more serious to run that thing i think...

also like the A/P but would prefer the extra cone area of that 10...just something about tens up front.

[Howlowd 0]

as well i have an xtant that offers a decent amount on the passive channel for the 10'' speakers, so they dont have to be super efficient although it would be a plus

Edited February 4, 2008 by Howlowd

[sqguy 0]

The cheaper peerless SLS might not be bad, depending on your needs. It is 8 ohm but might not make that big a difference. http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/peerless/830668.pdf It has that nice flat response. That TB sure looks cool with the neo and all, sure could help if depth is an issue.

This Hi-Vi is interesting too.

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/hivi/d10.8.pdf

Edited February 5, 2008 by sqguyib

[///M5 2,833]

8ohm is an advantage, not a disadvantage.

The SLS is a beast, I'd highly recommend them...it all comes down to the frequency that they need to play to though. The Seas can play much higher, but if you aren't going to have them do that then by all means go for the SLS. The 8 is great, I can't imagine the 10.