Jump to content
shizzzon

Important Kinetik Battery info for those with problems

Recommended Posts

Im getting my stuff together to start on my install. Plan on a 250amp RemanMotorCity alternator. Ordering a Atomic AT-7000.1D and a few Clarion amps for my highs. Thinking of going with a Missing Link regulator, 1-Deka Intimidator 9A31 under the hood and 3-in the rear less than 1 foot from my big amp. So thats 4 batteries and Im using 4/0 welding cable for 2 runs to the rear. do u guys think I'll be ok? this is a daily

Edited by SKEEMASK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Im getting my stuff together to start on my install. Plan on a 250amp RemanMotorCity alternator. Ordering a Atomic AT-7000.1D and a few Clarion amps for my highs. Thinking of going with a Missing Link regulator, 1-Deka Intimidator 9A31 under the hood and 3-in the rear less than 1 foot from my big amp. So thats 4 batteries and Im using 4/0 welding cable for 2 runs to the rear. do u guys think I'll be ok? this is a daily

Sounds sufficient to me. The MLA module will be a big help also! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Im getting my stuff together to start on my install. Plan on a 250amp RemanMotorCity alternator. Ordering a Atomic AT-7000.1D and a few Clarion amps for my highs. Thinking of going with a Missing Link regulator, 1-Deka Intimidator 9A31 under the hood and 3-in the rear less than 1 foot from my big amp. So thats 4 batteries and Im using 4/0 welding cable for 2 runs to the rear. do u guys think I'll be ok? this is a daily

Other than that craptastic alternator you picked out.. I'd add one more battery.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Im getting my stuff together to start on my install. Plan on a 250amp RemanMotorCity alternator. Ordering a Atomic AT-7000.1D and a few Clarion amps for my highs. Thinking of going with a Missing Link regulator, 1-Deka Intimidator 9A31 under the hood and 3-in the rear less than 1 foot from my big amp. So thats 4 batteries and Im using 4/0 welding cable for 2 runs to the rear. do u guys think I'll be ok? this is a daily

Other than that craptastic alternator you picked out.. I'd add one more battery.

Ive thought about a dual alt setup but I cant find a dual bracket for my car. And so far as the Reman alt...I know of 3 people who have had nothing but success and good things to say about them. Ive heard several negative things about EA, I cant get a answer from Ohio plus I think the are on dope with some of the prices Ive seen.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Im getting my stuff together to start on my install. Plan on a 250amp RemanMotorCity alternator. Ordering a Atomic AT-7000.1D and a few Clarion amps for my highs. Thinking of going with a Missing Link regulator, 1-Deka Intimidator 9A31 under the hood and 3-in the rear less than 1 foot from my big amp. So thats 4 batteries and Im using 4/0 welding cable for 2 runs to the rear. do u guys think I'll be ok? this is a daily

Other than that craptastic alternator you picked out.. I'd add one more battery.

Ive thought about a dual alt setup but I cant find a dual bracket for my car. And so far as the Reman alt...I know of 3 people who have had nothing but success and good things to say about them. Ive heard several negative things about EA, I cant get a answer from Ohio plus I think the are on dope with some of the prices Ive seen.

You've got to pay to play man. Ohio is on top of their game. You can also try Powermaster or Mean Green.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

2 of the guys I know with Remans got ride of powermaster alts for the Reman and the other got an Iraggi. 1 of the guys with the Reman alt (300amp); he ran a lil less amount of power Im going to be running with 4 of the same batteries Im running and without a voltage regulator his voltage stayed around 14.9 and rested @ 14.3v at full tilt. Id get an Iraggi before I run a Mean Green or Ohio. Lol, I forgot this was a bias forum. Cuz if I asked the same question on a Bosch or autozone site, they would say the same thing about Bosch and Autozone. Im not paying $500+ for a alt when Iraggi and Reman sells them for my car for around $350-$400 shipped.

Edited by SKEEMASK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just as well off as getting a chinese alt and slapping the module on it...

Chris has been running around for a LONG time with the module on his 2400's..no issues. Brad has had one on his truck for 8 years now i believe...hasn't killed his lead acid battery. I'd trust Brad before I trusted anybody else...one of the most intelligent gentleman i've ever had the pleasure to meet in my life, and the scary part is he uses his intelligence...and it makes sense :).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just as well off as getting a chinese alt and slapping the module on it...

Chris has been running around for a LONG time with the module on his 2400's..no issues. Brad has had one on his truck for 8 years now i believe...hasn't killed his lead acid battery. I'd trust Brad before I trusted anybody else...one of the most intelligent gentleman i've ever had the pleasure to meet in my life, and the scary part is he uses his intelligence...and it makes sense :).

well let me ask you, what is so wrong with Iraggi and Reman? Everybody on here has said they are chit but cant give me a reason why or either they've never used them personally. I know this site is affiliated with Powermaster but that doesnt mean that Powermaster, Ohio, Mean Green are the only people who can make a good alt.

Edited by SKEEMASK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just as well off as getting a chinese alt and slapping the module on it...

Chris has been running around for a LONG time with the module on his 2400's..no issues. Brad has had one on his truck for 8 years now i believe...hasn't killed his lead acid battery. I'd trust Brad before I trusted anybody else...one of the most intelligent gentleman i've ever had the pleasure to meet in my life, and the scary part is he uses his intelligence...and it makes sense :).

well let me ask you, what is so wrong with Iraggi and Reman? Everybody on here has said they are chit but cant give me a reason why or either they've never used them personally. I know this site is affiliated with Powermaster but that doesnt mean that Powermaster, Ohio, Mean Green are the only people who can make a good alt.

I wouldn't give dom a single red cent, he's screwed way too many of my friends over.

If i can get a chinese alternator that has all the same parts in it, or one off the shelf at autozone and make it perform the same as that 750 dollar alternator, am I the fool for doing it?

Don't think so boss :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just as well off as getting a chinese alt and slapping the module on it...

Chris has been running around for a LONG time with the module on his 2400's..no issues. Brad has had one on his truck for 8 years now i believe...hasn't killed his lead acid battery. I'd trust Brad before I trusted anybody else...one of the most intelligent gentleman i've ever had the pleasure to meet in my life, and the scary part is he uses his intelligence...and it makes sense :).

well let me ask you, what is so wrong with Iraggi and Reman? Everybody on here has said they are chit but cant give me a reason why or either they've never used them personally. I know this site is affiliated with Powermaster but that doesnt mean that Powermaster, Ohio, Mean Green are the only people who can make a good alt.

I wouldn't give dom a single red cent, he's screwed way too many of my friends over.

If i can get a chinese alternator that has all the same parts in it, or one off the shelf at autozone and make it perform the same as that 750 dollar alternator, am I the fool for doing it?

Don't think so boss :)

red cent......lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just as well off as getting a chinese alt and slapping the module on it...

Chris has been running around for a LONG time with the module on his 2400's..no issues. Brad has had one on his truck for 8 years now i believe...hasn't killed his lead acid battery. I'd trust Brad before I trusted anybody else...one of the most intelligent gentleman i've ever had the pleasure to meet in my life, and the scary part is he uses his intelligence...and it makes sense :).

well let me ask you, what is so wrong with Iraggi and Reman? Everybody on here has said they are chit but cant give me a reason why or either they've never used them personally. I know this site is affiliated with Powermaster but that doesnt mean that Powermaster, Ohio, Mean Green are the only people who can make a good alt.

I wouldn't give dom a single red cent, he's screwed way too many of my friends over.

If i can get a chinese alternator that has all the same parts in it, or one off the shelf at autozone and make it perform the same as that 750 dollar alternator, am I the fool for doing it?

Don't think so boss :)

Hey Nick,

I would be interested in having the Engineering dept put this to the test. We have the necessary dyno and test equipment to simulate any scenario. Can you point me in the direction of one of these "chinese alts" and modules that I could put heads up against one of our equivalent units? I put a lot of merit into pretty much anything you can contribute to the forums, but I have my doubts that this setup can compare favorably in a real test comparison.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would like to add to this thread. I was at a 2X point show in Taylor,MI on saturday the 12th and there was a competitor with 9 kinetik 2400's and was charging them @ 16.5 volts. I asked him if he had any problems he said none! he said as long as you cycle your charging you'll be fine. He had a DMM on them showing 16.5 when it sat @ 16.5 he would turn the voltage lower effictively cycling them and charging them full out without issue's. I witness this first hand. The guy was representing Roadrage sound out of Ohio and did a 160 in the db drag with the Kinetik's and 4-15" american bass oh yea and those chitty hifonics brutus's that don't do there full 2600rms.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone know if this could happen to a DC Sounds Lab LFB-2K?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good info in this thread

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

after lookin we do charge them on 10A slow charge...and works very well

Now at my house i have a 250A sears charger...6v start, slow, medium, and high start.....now i have no idea where the manual is, but somehow i usually charge it on medium and haven't had any problems.

Also

some FYI

OPTIMA YellowTop Charging Information

The following charging methods are recommended to insure a long battery life - always use a voltage-regulated charger, with voltage limits set as described below.

YellowTop Type: D51 & D51R - D35 - D75/25 - D34 - D34/78

These batteries are dual-purpose. They are designed for engine start and cyclic applications and for use in vehicles with large accessory loads.

Recommended charging information:

Alternator:

* 13.65 to 15.0 volts, no amperage limit.

Battery Charger:

* 13.8 to 15.0 volts, 10 amps maximum, 6-12 hours approximate.

Cyclic Applications:

* 14.7 volts, no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just as well off as getting a chinese alt and slapping the module on it...

Chris has been running around for a LONG time with the module on his 2400's..no issues. Brad has had one on his truck for 8 years now i believe...hasn't killed his lead acid battery. I'd trust Brad before I trusted anybody else...one of the most intelligent gentleman i've ever had the pleasure to meet in my life, and the scary part is he uses his intelligence...and it makes sense :).

well let me ask you, what is so wrong with Iraggi and Reman? Everybody on here has said they are chit but cant give me a reason why or either they've never used them personally. I know this site is affiliated with Powermaster but that doesnt mean that Powermaster, Ohio, Mean Green are the only people who can make a good alt.

I wouldn't give dom a single red cent, he's screwed way too many of my friends over.

If i can get a chinese alternator that has all the same parts in it, or one off the shelf at autozone and make it perform the same as that 750 dollar alternator, am I the fool for doing it?

Don't think so boss :)

Hey Nick,

I would be interested in having the Engineering dept put this to the test. We have the necessary dyno and test equipment to simulate any scenario. Can you point me in the direction of one of these "chinese alts" and modules that I could put heads up against one of our equivalent units? I put a lot of merit into pretty much anything you can contribute to the forums, but I have my doubts that this setup can compare favorably in a real test comparison.

Sure man...grab a 3G Ford alternator..pull one off your shelf if you wish and test it i know you've got some laying around...then hook a module from missinglink up to it and test it. (loaded, unloaded, idle, 2000rpm, and 3000 rpm)

Go to autozone/advance/pepboys whatever..do the same thing.

Every one of the alts are either chinese or mexican made that they carry, and have a warranty as well.

Believe you'll be in for a surprise had I not seen it myself i'd never believe it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are the ford 3G alts special or is it the chinese/mexican ones?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Are the ford 3G alts special or is it the chinese/mexican ones?

The original ones that you can get off of the ford vehicles are much more reliable and stouter than the ones you would get from autozone.

Granted it is an alternator either way if you need one, you can pickup one of the ford 3g's for a little bit of nothing at a junk yard and odds are have good service out of it instead of buying a new one. But the module works on the el-cheapo's as well. I'm just not a huge fan of those cheap ass electronic parts that autozone and the like sell..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Are the ford 3G alts special or is it the chinese/mexican ones?

The original ones that you can get off of the ford vehicles are much more reliable and stouter than the ones you would get from autozone.

Granted it is an alternator either way if you need one, you can pickup one of the ford 3g's for a little bit of nothing at a junk yard and odds are have good service out of it instead of buying a new one. But the module works on the el-cheapo's as well. I'm just not a huge fan of those cheap ass electronic parts that autozone and the like sell..

I have a 94 ford escort lx 1.9, does this vehicle have the 3g alt?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i'm glad i found this thread before i bought my new battery.. was considering a 2400 kinetik, but i usually run my voltage around 14.9V during competitions...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

XS-Insert.jpg

So if PM can charge at 15.0v, then why does their batteries come with this paper that says:

"AT NO TIME during charging should the battery be subjected to more than 2.4 volts per cell. Voltages above this will cause the battery to "gas" and once the oxygen is vented it cannot be restored."

So they say one thing to you, but print something else? Hmmm....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have to resurrect this thread from the dead.

Is this a real problem or some BS?

In Norway where I am from the Kinetik batteries have a bad rep becuase some, quite a few actually, say that the Kinetik batteries can't hold their voltage. Odyssey batteries are quite popular, and most people recommend using those batteries. I started to search for "battery" in this forum and found this thread and I started thinking, is this maybe the source for the bad reputation that Kinetik has in Norway?

And I use a Ctek XS 25000 intelligent charger that I have noticed has charged up to 15V sometimes, these chargers are quite expensive and most workshops here use these chargers, will it be a problem to charge a Kinetik with this charger? Charger Link

I have a HC800 in the front and a HC1800 in the back and I'm going to be running a Iraggi 180A alt as well so this info is quite valuable for me. :popcorn:

edit: I have also noticed that almost all battery manufactures recommend maximum 14.4V charging on their batteries.

Edited by Dammed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have to resurrect this thread from the dead.

Is this a real problem or some BS?

In Norway where I am from the Kinetik batteries have a bad rep becuase some, quite a few actually, say that the Kinetik batteries can't hold their voltage. Odyssey batteries are quite popular, and most people recommend using those batteries. I started to search for "battery" in this forum and found this thread and I started thinking, is this maybe the source for the bad reputation that Kinetik has in Norway?

And I use a Ctek XS 25000 intelligent charger that I have noticed has charged up to 15V sometimes, these chargers are quite expensive and most workshops here use these chargers, will it be a problem to charge a Kinetik with this charger? Charger Link

I have a HC800 in the front and a HC1800 in the back and I'm going to be running a Iraggi 180A alt as well so this info is quite valuable for me. :popcorn:

edit: I have also noticed that almost all battery manufactures recommend maximum 14.4V charging on their batteries.

My alt stays between 14.7 and 14.9 (has for 5 years) and I am still on the same 1400.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×