15'' BL fully loaded suddenly acts weird, please read

[kirill007 52]

Also somebody wanted to know my box dimensions 18X21.5X32 the vent hole is 4X18 L port shape its tuned to around 30hz forgot exactly how many, i dont even know how many cubic feet but should be enough to fit the recommendation on the site

What are those dimensions in relation to? LxWxH, WxHxL, WxHxL, you get the point.

Don't think it matters if u calculate it with pen and paper and calculator.(but with a program i see why.)

It does matter, while any way you do it gives you the same gross volume. It matters on which way to determine how much volume the port takes up, each way the slot port volume would be different when figuring it and in some ways the slot port won't work for the box.

Euhm, no

he said the specifications of his port which is 4x18, so that's 72sq inches of port area.(and if u have the port area you can determine the lenght and then multiply the lenght times it's port area)

Edited May 29, 2010 by kirill007

[mikemihai 0]

Also somebody wanted to know my box dimensions 18X21.5X32 the vent hole is 4X18 L port shape its tuned to around 30hz forgot exactly how many, i dont even know how many cubic feet but should be enough to fit the recommendation on the site

What are those dimensions in relation to? LxWxH, WxHxL, WxHxL, you get the point.

Don't think it matters if u calculate it with pen and paper and calculator.(but with a program i see why.)

It does matter, while any way you do it gives you the same gross volume. It matters on which way to determine how much volume the port takes up, each way the slot port volume would be different when figuring it and in some ways the slot port won't work for the box.

Euhm, no

he said the specifications of his port which is 4x18, so that's 72sq inches of port area.(and if u have the port area you can determine the lenght and then multiply the lenght times it's port area)

Bromo, do i really have to post pictures up? The dimensions make sense. I dont know how u calculate ur port, but if u can do it all in ur head ur smarter than me, i used a website that was mean for building boxes.

RE Enclosure Calculator <<<there now you can go there and play around with it too.

[Duran 387]

that calculate sucks grizzly bear nutz.

[NB50 206]

Euhm, no

he said the specifications of his port which is 4x18, so that's 72sq inches of port area.(and if u have the port area you can determine the lenght and then multiply the lenght times it's port area)

4 X18 is not a complete port specification, you need width, length, and height.

1. you can not have a 18" high port in that box with that calculator so your point is completely worthless. 2. The way he worded it his depth is 32" is his depth and that calculator can't figure out a depth that is shorter then the first turn.

Bromo, do i really have to post pictures up? The dimensions make sense. I dont know how u calculate ur port, but if u can do it all in ur head ur smarter than me, i used a website that was mean for building boxes.

RE Enclosure Calculator <<<there now you can go there and play around with it too.

post the numbers you entered in, in the order you entered them in and I'll tell you what your box actually is. Don't believe me fine, I know a few people on here that know my calculations are accurate.

[mikemihai 0]

Euhm, no

he said the specifications of his port which is 4x18, so that's 72sq inches of port area.(and if u have the port area you can determine the lenght and then multiply the lenght times it's port area)

4 X18 is not a complete port specification, you need width, length, and height.

1. you can not have a 18" high port in that box with that calculator so your point is completely worthless. 2. The way he worded it his depth is 32" is his depth and that calculator can't figure out a depth that is shorter then the first turn.

Bromo, do i really have to post pictures up? The dimensions make sense. I dont know how u calculate ur port, but if u can do it all in ur head ur smarter than me, i used a website that was mean for building boxes.

RE Enclosure Calculator <<<there now you can go there and play around with it too.

post the numbers you entered in, in the order you entered them in and I'll tell you what your box actually is. Don't believe me fine, I know a few people on here that know my calculations are accurate.

Ok im getting fired up now, here i will post a picture of the same exact thing i did when i build the box and also typed all dimensions and specs on the bottom. Also click the photobucket picture once it opens up, then u are able to zoom in to see the numbers better.

RE audio box config :: RE audio 31 hz Box picture by mikemihai - Photobucket

the dimensions are as follows Box width 32", box height 18", box top depth 21.5", box bottom depth 21.5", wood thickness .75", square port height 16.5", square port width 4", square port length 1 - 16.75", square port length 2 - 8"; total port length 31.5; square port diameter 9.169"; square port area 66"^2; square port volume internal 2079, square port volume displaced 2097; Box volume(ft3) 4.611; Box volume(in3) 7968; Tuned Frequency(Fb) 31.765

[kirill007 52]

I come up with 5,823cu ft Gross and 1.15162037 cu feet as port displacement.

So that makes 4,6714 cu ft after port displacement.

And then also remove the sub displacement which makes it 4.46cu ft NET.

So the enclosure is a bit on the big side.(Maybe if he has a lot of bracing it could take up another 0.5cu ft.)

1.1516 cu ft is the port displacemt with 72sq inches tuned to 31hz.

EDIT:(i won't contribute to this thread anymore because people say i'm wrong..)

Edited May 30, 2010 by kirill007

[mikemihai 0]

I come up with 5,823cu ft Gross and 1.15162037 cu feet as port displacement.

So that makes 4,6714 cu ft after port displacement.

And then also remove the sub displacement which makes it 4.46cu ft NET.

So the enclosure is a bit on the big side.(Maybe if he has a lot of bracing it could take up another 0.5cu ft.)

1.1516 cu ft is the port displacemt with 72sq inches tuned to 31hz.

EDIT:(i won't contribute to this thread anymore because people say i'm wrong..)

I do have quite a bit of bracing and i used some poly fill inside the box to cover the wires.

[NB50 206]

Here is actually what it is tuned to, since you said you have bracing it will be higher, closer to 33hz.

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

Bromo,

what program is that,

Got a link?

[NB50 206]

Bromo,

what program is that,

Got a link?

I made excel do all the calculations for me.

[NDMstang65 403]

Ok..that calculator is wrong. There is absolutely no way that port can be 31" long. When you do a port you calculate the center as the tuning portion of things..or you can make it easier on me and take a piece of string and put it down the center line of the port and then let us know how long it is when it comes out the end of the port.

Just a rough calculation in my head (i'll have to get a string and some cardboard out later..i'm not doing that right now, it is sunday on a holiday weekend.)

That port is realistically about 26.75" long.

Which would mean it displaces .990 cubic feet...

Which would mean the box is 4.83 cubic feet..

Which would still tune it around 33Hz..

But it is still larger then what we suggest. Your mechanical power handling goes down the larger the enclosure is. Regardless shoot me an email, send the sub in. We'll take care of you on a recone. But if you get a recone and put it back in that same situation it is going to do it again, that wall that you drove the brand new car in is still going to be there...it's only a matter of time before you smack it square into that wall again

[NB50 206]

Ok..that calculator is wrong. There is absolutely no way that port can be 31" long. When you do a port you calculate the center as the tuning portion of things..or you can make it easier on me and take a piece of string and put it down the center line of the port and then let us know how long it is when it comes out the end of the port.

Just a rough calculation in my head (i'll have to get a string and some cardboard out later..i'm not doing that right now, it is sunday on a holiday weekend.)

That port is realistically about 26.75" long.

Which would mean it displaces .990 cubic feet...

Which would mean the box is 4.83 cubic feet..

Which would still tune it around 33Hz..

But it is still larger then what we suggest. Your mechanical power handling goes down the larger the enclosure is. Regardless shoot me an email, send the sub in. We'll take care of you on a recone. But if you get a recone and put it back in that same situation it is going to do it again, that wall that you drove the brand new car in is still going to be there...it's only a matter of time before you smack it square into that wall again

My calculator? The physical port is calculated down the center of the port, the physical length is 29.5" the length with end correction is 31.5". When I get some time I'll draw it up in sketchup if I have to.

[NDMstang65 403]

Ok..that calculator is wrong. There is absolutely no way that port can be 31" long. When you do a port you calculate the center as the tuning portion of things..or you can make it easier on me and take a piece of string and put it down the center line of the port and then let us know how long it is when it comes out the end of the port.

Just a rough calculation in my head (i'll have to get a string and some cardboard out later..i'm not doing that right now, it is sunday on a holiday weekend.)

That port is realistically about 26.75" long.

Which would mean it displaces .990 cubic feet...

Which would mean the box is 4.83 cubic feet..

Which would still tune it around 33Hz..

But it is still larger then what we suggest. Your mechanical power handling goes down the larger the enclosure is. Regardless shoot me an email, send the sub in. We'll take care of you on a recone. But if you get a recone and put it back in that same situation it is going to do it again, that wall that you drove the brand new car in is still going to be there...it's only a matter of time before you smack it square into that wall again

My calculator? The physical port is calculated down the center of the port, the physical length is 29.5" the length with end correction is 31.5". When I get some time I'll draw it up in sketchup if I have to.

No without end correction and the RE port calculator..

the ID wall is 24" long, the OD is right around 32" long (outside wall)..did the math in my head haven't actually worked it out

..31" long down the center line just does not sound right...not taking to account end correction..

[NB50 206]

OK, here is the sketchup of the box minus the height to save time and make it easier to see.

Port length measured down the center is 18.75" + 10.75" = 29.5"

Volume is area1 17.75" * 4.75" = 84.3125in^2

Area2 25.75" * 15.25" = 392.6875in^2

Add those together = 84.3125 + 392.6875 = 477in^2 multiply that by internal height of 16.5" to get in^3 = 7870.5in^3 divide by 1728 to get cuft = 4.5546875ft^3

4.5546875ft^3 - sub displacement of .21ft^3 = 4.3446875ft^3

[NDMstang65 403]

i knew 31" long wasn't right lol...just didn't jive in my head

[crf450r4u2nv 0]

Regardless shoot me an email, send the sub in. We'll take care of you on a recone.

wow...... thats above and beond cust satisfaction.

this does not sound like the fault of the sub on so many levels .

[crf450r4u2nv 0]

400 dollar subs + 350 dollar amps just dont burn out on low volume 2 minutes after turning them on, it just doesnt happen.

make sure that amp is not puting out dc to the subs. <you did say that you have low volted them several times>

and get that amp put on an o-scope to see at what gain setting you realy clip at .<half gain is not half power>

and you realy need a ho-alt before you go any farther. <believe it or not it will save your subs and amps>

[NB50 206]

i knew 31" long wasn't right lol...just didn't jive in my head

It almost appears they automatically added the end correction to the port length. That would explain why RE came up with 31.5" and actual physical length is 29.5", assuming half port width for end correction. RE is still inaccurate with the way it calculates volume, I'd be curious to see how that program calculates its net internal volume.

[NDMstang65 403]

i knew 31" long wasn't right lol...just didn't jive in my head

It almost appears they automatically added the end correction to the port length. That would explain why RE came up with 31.5" and actual physical length is 29.5", assuming half port width for end correction. RE is still inaccurate with the way it calculates volume, I'd be curious to see how that program calculates its net internal volume.

No idea..

I don't use it for good reason. I use a pen and a piece of paper and a calculator..

It's just geometry

[NB50 206]

i knew 31" long wasn't right lol...just didn't jive in my head

It almost appears they automatically added the end correction to the port length. That would explain why RE came up with 31.5" and actual physical length is 29.5", assuming half port width for end correction. RE is still inaccurate with the way it calculates volume, I'd be curious to see how that program calculates its net internal volume.

No idea..

I don't use it for good reason. I use a pen and a piece of paper and a calculator..

It's just geometry

Essentially that is what I do, I just set up a spreadsheet to calculate it for me on the fly.

[mikemihai 0]

Ok..that calculator is wrong. There is absolutely no way that port can be 31" long. When you do a port you calculate the center as the tuning portion of things..or you can make it easier on me and take a piece of string and put it down the center line of the port and then let us know how long it is when it comes out the end of the port.

Just a rough calculation in my head (i'll have to get a string and some cardboard out later..i'm not doing that right now, it is sunday on a holiday weekend.)

That port is realistically about 26.75" long.

Which would mean it displaces .990 cubic feet...

Which would mean the box is 4.83 cubic feet..

Which would still tune it around 33Hz..

But it is still larger then what we suggest. Your mechanical power handling goes down the larger the enclosure is. Regardless shoot me an email, send the sub in. We'll take care of you on a recone. But if you get a recone and put it back in that same situation it is going to do it again, that wall that you drove the brand new car in is still going to be there...it's only a matter of time before you smack it square into that wall again

Lol, i just want to on that wall and burn it down.(If it was toyota that were to hit the wall...id get a replacement ) So the bracing and sub adds @ 2 more hz to the box making it at @33hz, is that what killed it u think? I mean it ran fine for ( i counted today) 7 months, so its just weird to me, im gonna check again the settings on the amp to see what the subsonic filter was set to. supposed to be 2hz under the box's hz. On the website it says have it tuned at around 33hz so the box is not out of specs also, for port area it says 12-16 square inches of vent area per cubic foot. I have a 66inch vent area with 4.611 cubic feet (7964cu inch) so im within limits(14square inch vent area per cu foot) according to re audio, but i know after the bracing its really @ 170-200 less cubic inches, so not a big difference at all. then about .21 cu ft displacement from the sub. so im not sure how u got a larger spec for the box ("Which would mean the box is 4.83 cubic feet".) either. Also the bracing & sub should not bring the total cubic feet down by much, leaving still about a 15.3 cubic inches of vent area per cubic foot of space, so im still within the 12-16 inch specs off the fi website.Sooo, in other words my box should be okay, im gonna check my subsonic filter to see if that is set around 31hz for the 33hz box, b/c if it was lower all this time then thats not good. I remember after my friend and i set it up, i didnt touch it anymore, so i dont rem exactly what it was left at, i just kinda assumed its set around @30 hz. but im gonna check to make sure. and post again

if the subsonic filter its okay, then assuming the amp has no bad parts then neither the box or amp caused any problem, so im gonna check my battery to see if theres a huge voltage drop on a deep beat, and also gonna check my head unit to see if theres anything wrong with that. Alsooo i need to know how much a recone would cost me and what does it come with, i looked on the site already and was a little confused, didnt see anything talking about spiders, i need a new spider, VC its okay, it can be reused in fact is that possible? its still good it seems and had the more expensive flatwind wire or whatever its called. Also does the recone come with new cone and dust cap? so basically they gonna repair my sub to like new conditions? if so then how much $$$ will it be to send it in, not counting shipping? Thank you

[mikemihai 0]

Regardless shoot me an email, send the sub in. We'll take care of you on a recone.

wow...... thats above and beond cust satisfaction.

this does not sound like the fault of the sub on so many levels .

Yeah he didnt say its for free,... although u can imply that and that would be nice. =/ i doubt it tho since i get attacked that it is my fault for it breaking, but im going to test voltages and whatnot with a multimeter and see whats going on if theres too much of a voltage drop at the battery when the bass hits, or if the amp is not putting out whats supposed to do, gonna check my subsonic filter, if that one was messed up its obvioulsy my fault and i guess could have lead to a blown sub, but i dont see why it didnt break much earlier instead of 7 months. also going to have the headunit checked.

[akrod2as 2]

Ok..that calculator is wrong. There is absolutely no way that port can be 31" long. When you do a port you calculate the center as the tuning portion of things..or you can make it easier on me and take a piece of string and put it down the center line of the port and then let us know how long it is when it comes out the end of the port.

Just a rough calculation in my head (i'll have to get a string and some cardboard out later..i'm not doing that right now, it is sunday on a holiday weekend.)

That port is realistically about 26.75" long.

Which would mean it displaces .990 cubic feet...

Which would mean the box is 4.83 cubic feet..

Which would still tune it around 33Hz..

But it is still larger then what we suggest. Your mechanical power handling goes down the larger the enclosure is. Regardless shoot me an email, send the sub in. We'll take care of you on a recone. But if you get a recone and put it back in that same situation it is going to do it again, that wall that you drove the brand new car in is still going to be there...it's only a matter of time before you smack it square into that wall again

Lol, i just want to on that wall and burn it down.(If it was toyota that were to hit the wall...id get a replacement ) So the bracing and sub adds @ 2 more hz to the box making it at @33hz, is that what killed it u think? I mean it ran fine for ( i counted today) 7 months, so its just weird to me, im gonna check again the settings on the amp to see what the subsonic filter was set to. supposed to be 2hz under the box's hz. On the website it says have it tuned at around 33hz so the box is not out of specs also, for port area it says 12-16 square inches of vent area per cubic foot. I have a 66inch vent area with 4.611 cubic feet (7964cu inch) so im within limits(14square inch vent area per cu foot) according to re audio, but i know after the bracing its really @ 170-200 less cubic inches, so not a big difference at all. then about .21 cu ft displacement from the sub. so im not sure how u got a larger spec for the box ("Which would mean the box is 4.83 cubic feet".) either. Also the bracing & sub should not bring the total cubic feet down by much, leaving still about a 15.3 cubic inches of vent area per cubic foot of space, so im still within the 12-16 inch specs off the fi website.Sooo, in other words my box should be okay, im gonna check my subsonic filter to see if that is set around 31hz for the 33hz box, b/c if it was lower all this time then thats not good. I remember after my friend and i set it up, i didnt touch it anymore, so i dont rem exactly what it was left at, i just kinda assumed its set around @30 hz. but im gonna check to make sure. and post again

if the subsonic filter its okay, then assuming the amp has no bad parts then neither the box or amp caused any problem, so im gonna check my battery to see if theres a huge voltage drop on a deep beat, and also gonna check my head unit to see if theres anything wrong with that. Alsooo i need to know how much a recone would cost me and what does it come with, i looked on the site already and was a little confused, didnt see anything talking about spiders, i need a new spider, VC its okay, it can be reused in fact is that possible? its still good it seems and had the more expensive flatwind wire or whatever its called. Also does the recone come with new cone and dust cap? so basically they gonna repair my sub to like new conditions? if so then how much $$$ will it be to send it in, not counting shipping? Thank you

A recone includes the spiders, former, vc, cone, and surround all in one unit that you replace.

[mikemihai 0]

400 dollar subs + 350 dollar amps just dont burn out on low volume 2 minutes after turning them on, it just doesnt happen.

make sure that amp is not puting out dc to the subs. <you did say that you have low volted them several times>

and get that amp put on an o-scope to see at what gain setting you realy clip at .<half gain is not half power>

and you realy need a ho-alt before you go any farther. <believe it or not it will save your subs and amps>

Ill make sure to do that before i put in another sub just in case something did go wrong there. Plus having an ho alt its always a good idea, i found my temp fix was getting a new battery, after i put on the yellow top, i had no more problems with the amp shutting down, also when im idleing i turn the volume down, like at stop lights for 2 reasons, one is because i dont want to be called an arseho for making others listen to my music when they have nowhere else to go, and second reasons is because i know i have a low output alternator so i dont want to strain the amp with less power while the alt is in idle. The gain its set to work with the headunit actually i havent looked at it since it was set up but i can check, i somewhat remember setting it up and the gain was not very high so it didnt give to much juice combined with whatever voltage came out the headunit. Also i used to clip when in idle with volume 50(max) on my headunit when i had my old battery so i made a habit to not go past volume 42 when not in idle and that even cured the idle problems, if i were to leave it at 42 when at a red light it would still play fine(because a few times i forgot to turn it dow), but i almost always turn it down because theres always ppl around me that would give me dirty looks and im not trying to showoff with subs, try to hide it and not get my sub stolen lol.

[mikemihai 0]

i knew 31" long wasn't right lol...just didn't jive in my head

It almost appears they automatically added the end correction to the port length. That would explain why RE came up with 31.5" and actual physical length is 29.5", assuming half port width for end correction. RE is still inaccurate with the way it calculates volume, I'd be curious to see how that program calculates its net internal volume.

No idea..

I don't use it for good reason. I use a pen and a piece of paper and a calculator..

It's just geometry

If i Re is bad, then I guess you know who i will be seeking for help with my next box =)