15'' BL fully loaded suddenly acts weird, please read

[mikemihai 0]

Hello everyone, I have a 15'' BL fully loaded daily dual 2 ohm, better wires and better cooling. I followed the recommended specs for the box and tunned it to 31 hz, with the right amount of cubic feet, forgot how many cubic feet but i just remember the box is good, and ported obviously, i dunno how else you could tune the hertz on it if it were not ported... My wiring is good 4awg for the power and ground cable. The amp is good, got it new, works well, hifonics brutus 2000 watt amp, the gains on it are optimized to work great with the headunit, the other settings for frequency i dont rem the technical terms for them but i remember they are set so its between the low 29 and the high 80 hz or 100 hz., following recommandations. I know the amp is too big for my sub so i make sure not to accidentally overpower my sub since its only rated at 1000 watts standard. So i run my amp at half the power it could do. I also only have an 80amp alternator so i doubt i could even get 1500watts out my amp.

HERE IS THE PROBLEM: now that you know the specs, my problem is that my 15 inch BL smoked today. after i turn on the car, i let it run at 10% vol for one min till i got out the subdivision, then i give it a bit more volume, i get about 2 blocks away and i let it have about half it can handle and it cuts out, im like what the @$#& is going on and whats that smell, i think to myself "thats weird", this thing can handle deep bass songs at 2 times the volume at least. I turn my car off and back on, i thought i heard some bass but i gave up and turned vol down, got to my friends house 5 min later and looked at the sub, so much smoke, it was so hot i thought the dustcap was going to melt i couldnt touch it, i freaked out, it was like a bad dream. i let it cool, 20 min later go back to my car, turn the music on to about 20% volume put on a deep bass song, and hear nothing. i go and touch it and pushed the cone in a bit then i hear good clear bass come out of it, i let go of it then it goes quiet, i touch it again it plays, W.T.F.??? its not burned but it was smoking earlier, and it burned me when i tried touching it, now its hot and only plays if i push the top in a bit. makes no sense, i had this sub for months and never once i thought it would die on me, and deffinetly not when i was not even pounding it, i was listening to club/house music when it happened, more hight tones than bass. so im so shocked, but for now i think im gonna cry b/c i have no idea what to do and this was so unexpected, the whole reason i bought the fi bl was to never have to worry about anything bad ever happening to my music experience. at 400 bucks this should have never happened, but it did. im also broke, so if anyone knows if FI has warranties on their products or not, please let me know.

My question to the community is, what do you think its wrong? Voice coil unglued? Wire came loose?(i still havent even opened the box, this happened a few hrs ago). Am i just unlucky or stupid? I dont know, but please comment. I need some guidance. Thanks in advance for reading all that and hopefully i didnt waste anyones time on here.

-Mike-

[akrod2as 2]

You obv had your gains misadjusted and fried the tinsel leads.

[95Honda 486]

You gave the sub too much power, that is the only thing that can fry it like that.

It has nothing ot do with gains, clipping, tinsel leads (it is a 100% myth that clipping hurts tinsels) or anything like that....

From some of your symptoms, it also sounds like the amp may have issues.... If that amp is screwed up, it could also be putting out components other than the audio you would normally hear (dc, HF oscilations, etc) and you could easily destroy the sub without even playing it loud.... But again, this is only because you overpowered the sub...

[NDMstang65 403]

Speakers are stupid, they do what you tell them to do.

Regardless, odds are the subsonic filter pot on that amplifier and the screen print on that amplifier is off. They probably cut a deal on their buddy's pots at the factory in china or korea..and used 20% variance pots instead of 2%..

So if the screen print on the amplifier says you are tuning it to "30Hz" you are really tuning it in the 18-20Hz range...which will cause massive over excursion yanking sot parts past mechanical limitations below tuning. You also have the next issue of a cheap korean/chinese amp that has ultra high switching frequency on the output transistors trying to gain efficiency....that high frequency is not filtered out. It microwaves the tinsel leads and makes them glow.

The only problem is this is like putting diesel fuel in a gas car. Nothing inherently wrong with the car..or the diesel fuel. You put the two together and bad things happen. JL used to have in their old 1000/1 amplifier manual openly admitting that 25Hz screened on the amp was actually 17Hz..and 60Hz screened on the amp was about 75Hz.

[hatrix 2]

Speakers are stupid, they do what you tell them to do.

Regardless, odds are the subsonic filter pot on that amplifier and the screen print on that amplifier is off. They probably cut a deal on their buddy's pots at the factory in china or korea..and used 20% variance pots instead of 2%..

So if the screen print on the amplifier says you are tuning it to "30Hz" you are really tuning it in the 18-20Hz range...which will cause massive over excursion yanking sot parts past mechanical limitations below tuning. You also have the next issue of a cheap korean/chinese amp that has ultra high switching frequency on the output transistors trying to gain efficiency....that high frequency is not filtered out. It microwaves the tinsel leads and makes them glow.

The only problem is this is like putting diesel fuel in a gas car. Nothing inherently wrong with the car..or the diesel fuel. You put the two together and bad things happen. JL used to have in their old 1000/1 amplifier manual openly admitting that 25Hz screened on the amp was actually 17Hz..and 60Hz screened on the amp was about 75Hz.

See, now that scares me. My friend is going to let me borrow his amp for a little, he says its 3000 watts, but knowing him its probably rated a little lower, and its also most likely some shitty company that made the amp. 3000 watts is way to much power for my SSD, and if the SSF isn't set right because of a cheap amp, then thats even more of a problem.

Edited May 28, 2010 by hatrix

[NDMstang65 403]

Welcome to the world of somebody "making" something..not really making it..and not having a clue how any of it works.

It's called..manupackering.

They get it..take it out of the box..test it..yep it works..and out the door it goes. With not a clue in the world what is going on

If the sub is freaking out on the lower notes then turn the filter up higher..you are playing below a set tuning frequency where it should roll off..not flap about and unload destroying the sub.

[hatrix 2]

Welcome to the world of somebody "making" something..not really making it..and not having a clue how any of it works.

It's called..manupackering.

You get it..take it out of the box..test it..yep it works..and out the door it goes. With not a clue in the world what is going on

lol. Well I'm glad there are companies like Fi and Sundown Audio.

Unfortunately when you have to use those "other brands", things can happen I guess.

[altoncustomtech 773]

First, I gotta say that problems like this are why I decided to spend a few extra bucks buying new amps and getting rid of all my Hifonics gear. I never found the amps very pleasing to listen to and the efficiency was rediculously overstated. If you're using 4 guage wire for the full run on that amp then you were definitely starving the amp for power IMO, along with the 80amp alt the amp was probably clipping badly. Then, as Nick stated, you can't go by the #'s that are screen printed on the amp, they're not accurate and most likely were never intended to be accurate. Next I'd hate to think the amp was outputting anything other than audio (i.e. switching frequencies, oscillations, etc.) but it's happened before so I wouldn't rule that out either. My last thought is of the box. Who built it? Are you absolutely certain the size and tuning are what they were stated to be? It honestly seems like you had more than one issue take out the sub. Fi makes some very tough, high quality drivers but anything that is not used in the manner it was designed will fail at some point. I understand being broke, but this is a good opportunity to look at the situation and do a little work determining what the factors were that played into the failure of the sub and while you're saving money for the recone you can be working on resolving the issues. If you're not 110% positive on the specs of the enclosure, post up the measurements and surely someone would be willing to go over the numbers and verify the enclosure was to spec. See if you can find someone with an Oscilloscope to check out the output on the amp and make sure it's not putting out anything other than good (clean as it can do) audio. Save up a few more dollars and get 1/0 guage wire and a second battery at the least to keep up with the power demands of the amp, a higher output alty would be a good future investment as well. Those are a few things you could do that will help assure this doesn't happen in the future. Fi does have warranty on their products, but items that have clearly been misused or abused will most likely not be covered, sorry. There's a good reasonable explanation for the failure and we'll do what we can to help you find it, that's what the community is for.

[NDMstang65 403]

Welcome to the world of somebody "making" something..not really making it..and not having a clue how any of it works.

It's called..manupackering.

You get it..take it out of the box..test it..yep it works..and out the door it goes. With not a clue in the world what is going on

lol. Well I'm glad there are companies like Fi and Sundown Audio.

Unfortunately when you have to use those "other brands", things can happen I guess.

Uh..not to burst your bubble or anything...but..

Those amps aren't made here.

[Mac N Cheese 90]

Welcome to the world of somebody "making" something..not really making it..and not having a clue how any of it works.

It's called..manupackering.

You get it..take it out of the box..test it..yep it works..and out the door it goes. With not a clue in the world what is going on

lol. Well I'm glad there are companies like Fi and Sundown Audio.

Unfortunately when you have to use those "other brands", things can happen I guess.

Uh..not to burst your bubble or anything...but..

Those amps aren't made here.

hehe

[mikemihai 0]

THANK YOU all for posting reply's so fast, I really do appreciate it, i read them all.

I pulled the sub out the box 5 minutes ago, here is the status.

STATUS: 1. Spiders are cracked, oh and burned on one side...

2. Voice coil looks good, not burned, BUT it slipped down from its position, i guess it got so hot the glue did not hold it in place so it slipped down about half an inch (i got pictures)

3. The heat was so bad that right above the burned spider, the cone itself burned a little, and the dustcap warped a little at the one edge with the excessive heat. (it does not look bad at all on the top unless u really really really look closely) but underneath the spiders are obviously bad.

So far all i need to do is: 1-find out the culprit that lead to this, 2-replace spiders and 3-reglue the voice coil in the correct position.

Also assuming the amp settings are correct and the box frequency is correct also, and also i have an optima battery which is really good compared to any stock battery, so i had no clipping issues, plus i wasnt playing loud enough for it to clip, it was all nice and clear when all of a sudden it happened. I read about the 1/0 gauge power cables and i will get those in future, as well as better alternator, but for now im better off without b/c i obviously do not want to give more power to my amp to fry another sub. before i had my optima battery my amp would simply turn off if there was not enough power, and as my standard batt got worse, it would do it more often on lower volume. So im 99% almost sure this had nothing to do with my battery, wires and alternator, the amp was getting all the power it needed at the volume i was playing at when this happened.

I guess my biggest concern is now, does the warranty cover this, its such a weird thing this even happened the way it did, i always though my BL was super high quality, so i'd hate to think it was just bad luck(not enough glue on the voice coil that caused all this).

also theres a plastic cover on the back of the magnet, that says "Fi Customs Made in USA" something like that, was i supposed to take that off? my was left on, i noticed its covering a little hole in the magnet, so i dunno if that was meant to cool it down... but if it were meant to cool it down, maybe if that plastic cover wasnt on there, this wouldnt have happened. im not an expert so i dunno.

Once again thx for all the help i will post box dimensions soon, probably today, and also those pictures, right now i have to go finish sealing the driveway for my dad. (PLease Please PLease let me know if the warranty could apply to me in this case)

[mikemihai 0]

Oh one more thing i forgot to add on my last post, If this really was the cause of the amp being build cheaply and the hifonics company was cutting corners, is there any way i can proove they gave me a faulty product and get them to replace it and also pay me for the repairs on my sub? I'll take them to small claims court if i have to By the way the amp is the 2010 model D class amp at 2000 watts, I don't remember the model name, but i can check if anyone wants to know.

"" NDMstang65, on 28 May 2010 - 07:31 AM, said:

Speakers are stupid, they do what you tell them to do.

Regardless, odds are the subsonic filter pot on that amplifier and the screen print on that amplifier is off. They probably cut a deal on their buddy's pots at the factory in china or korea..and used 20% variance pots instead of 2%..""

[95Honda 486]

This type of thing should never be covered by the manufacturer.

You should have removed the plastic cover from the back of the motor, this may have really been a big part of your problem.......

I would just plan on sending in the driver for a recone, and paying for it.

[95Honda 486]

Honestly, the only one to blame with this is the end user. You can't really blame Hifonics considering what you paid.

Once you step into the realm of some of this equipment, you are asking for trouble if you don't know what you are doing.

I compare it to sportbikes.... 17 year old kid buys an R1..... Totals it 5 days later.... Who's fault is it? The bike, no....

Same kid buys a Vespa, rides 5 years without a problem.....

Edited May 28, 2010 by 95Honda

[NB50 206]

also theres a plastic cover on the back of the magnet, that says "Fi Customs Made in USA" something like that, was i supposed to take that off? my was left on, i noticed its covering a little hole in the magnet, so i dunno if that was meant to cool it down... but if it were meant to cool it down, maybe if that plastic cover wasnt on there, this wouldnt have happened. im not an expert so i dunno.

Once again thx for all the help i will post box dimensions soon, probably today, and also those pictures, right now i have to go finish sealing the driveway for my dad. (PLease Please PLease let me know if the warranty could apply to me in this case)

BL's do not have a pole vent, removing the sticker would have done nothing but expose the head to a bolt.

[NDMstang65 403]

You aren't going to prove that they have a faulty product..there's nothing at fault with it.

It's like putting diesel fuel in a gas car. That obviously is not going to work...

This only happens due to abuse...there is more glue on those coils then anybody else uses. It is absolutely not a warranty issue. No offense, but there is no part of a warranty that covers stupidity..you did something stupid and the speaker..took what you did stupid..and did what you told it to do. The end result..is burning up.

You can send the sub in for a recone...but there is no warranty.

WHAT IS NOT COVERED?

This warranty is valid only if the product is used for the purpose for which it was designed. *DUE TO THE EXTREME NATURE OF ITS INTENDED USAGE, THE BTL SERIES OF SUBWOOFERS HAS NO WARRANTY COVERAGE (outside of arriving in proper working condition after shipping)

It does not cover:

Damage due to improper installation.

Subsequent damage to other components.

Damage caused by exposure to moisture, excessive heat, chemical cleaners, and/or UV radiation.

Damage through negligence, misuse, accident or abuse. Repeated returns for the same damage will be considered abuse.

Any cost or expense related to the removal or reinstallation of product.

Speakers damaged due to amplifier clipping or distortion.

Burnt or open voice coils.

Ripped, torn, or burnt spiders, lead wire, cones, or surrounds.

Items previously repaired or modified by any unauthorized repair facility.

Return shipping on non-defective items.

Products returned without a Return Authorization (RMA) number.

Freight Damage.

The cost of shipping products to FI Car Audio.

Service performed by anyone other than Fi Car Audio or an affiliated repair facility.

[mikemihai 0]

Bromo:

"BL's do not have a pole vent, removing the sticker would have done nothing but expose the head to a bolt."

So ok, i guess i did nothing wrong by letting the sticker stay on the back, which kinda goes against what 95honda said...

95Honda:

"This type of thing should never be covered by the manufacturer.

You should have removed the plastic cover from the back of the motor, this may have really been a big part of your problem......."

Yes i thought the same thing at first but turns out that is no problem. However i liked ur idea about paying for a recone, painful on the pocket, i can only imagine its probably gonna cost me almost as much as a whole new sub. also the um thng about hifonics that i shouldnt blame the manufacturer for what i paid, well i payd about 300+ for the amp, and i care if they put parts that would damage my subwoofer under the recommended settings, then maybe they shouldnt be selling crap to people and not telling them hey our products are crap so dont buy em unless u have more money down the road to buy another replacement crap from us.... so yes i def think if its the amp's problem im gonna blame it on the manufacturer for making a crap amp and they should reimburse me for damage. so far i dont know how to prove it... but still not sure what the problem is, but i kinda doubt FI would skimp on their manufacturing process, hey anything is possible tho, human error right? i accept the possibility i maybe had the sub running with the wrong settings but its odd since myself and a friend of mine looked at it numerous times to see that its done right, and he knows a lot more abut subs than i do. He spends more time around them, and on forums in a month than i do in a year, so according to him my system was set up correctly, nothing should have happened unless i overpowered it, and i did not give it more than half volume like i said before. and that half volume was way under the RMS wattage of the sub for sure, so im frustrated about this, how did it manage to get so hot within 2 minutes of turning the car on??????? seriously, im gonna rip the head off someone at Hifonics if its due to crappy parts in their 350 or so dollar amp, i thought their stuff was reliable, above average....

Having a nice sound system is getting to expensive for me i might just sell w/e i have left and forget about music all together, im in college, i dont have money to mess around, working to pay for books right now, which have no resale value b/c they make new editions every half a year... so i got no more income to buy a new sub.

Also somebody wanted to know my box dimensions 18X21.5X32 the vent hole is 4X18 L port shape its tuned to around 30hz forgot exactly how many, i dont even know how many cubic feet but should be enough to fit the recommendation on the site

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

Dude, the amp did exactly what you told it to do. It does not have eyes and ears like you so it has no clue what is going on. Only you can be the judge if your settings are right.

Hifinics didnt blow your sub, you did.

Let it go and chalk it up to a learning experience and next time be more careful.

[NDMstang65 403]

Bromo:

"BL's do not have a pole vent, removing the sticker would have done nothing but expose the head to a bolt."

So ok, i guess i did nothing wrong by letting the sticker stay on the back, which kinda goes against what 95honda said...

95Honda:

"This type of thing should never be covered by the manufacturer.

You should have removed the plastic cover from the back of the motor, this may have really been a big part of your problem......."

Yes i thought the same thing at first but turns out that is no problem. However i liked ur idea about paying for a recone, painful on the pocket, i can only imagine its probably gonna cost me almost as much as a whole new sub. also the um thng about hifonics that i shouldnt blame the manufacturer for what i paid, well i payd about 300+ for the amp, and i care if they put parts that would damage my subwoofer under the recommended settings, then maybe they shouldnt be selling crap to people and not telling them hey our products are crap so dont buy em unless u have more money down the road to buy another replacement crap from us.... so yes i def think if its the amp's problem im gonna blame it on the manufacturer for making a crap amp and they should reimburse me for damage. so far i dont know how to prove it... but still not sure what the problem is, but i kinda doubt FI would skimp on their manufacturing process, hey anything is possible tho, human error right? i accept the possibility i maybe had the sub running with the wrong settings but its odd since myself and a friend of mine looked at it numerous times to see that its done right, and he knows a lot more abut subs than i do. He spends more time around them, and on forums in a month than i do in a year, so according to him my system was set up correctly, nothing should have happened unless i overpowered it, and i did not give it more than half volume like i said before. and that half volume was way under the RMS wattage of the sub for sure, so im frustrated about this, how did it manage to get so hot within 2 minutes of turning the car on??????? seriously, im gonna rip the head off someone at Hifonics if its due to crappy parts in their 350 or so dollar amp, i thought their stuff was reliable, above average....

Having a nice sound system is getting to expensive for me i might just sell w/e i have left and forget about music all together, im in college, i dont have money to mess around, working to pay for books right now, which have no resale value b/c they make new editions every half a year... so i got no more income to buy a new sub.

Also somebody wanted to know my box dimensions 18X21.5X32 the vent hole is 4X18 L port shape its tuned to around 30hz forgot exactly how many, i dont even know how many cubic feet but should be enough to fit the recommendation on the site

We build thousands of subs, they are all built under the exact same processes. They are tested in house to make sure nothing goes out that does not work properly. Tell ya what to do.

Go to a ford dealership

Buy a new mustang

Set the cruise on 70 on the interstate and drive it straight into the wall. Haul the mustang back to the dealership and say "It drove itself into the wall I want a new one now"

That is exactly what you just did with the sub , They do not spontaneously com bust. There need not be any finger pointing here..it's not the amp manufacturer's direct fault that the sub blew. It is not our fault that the sub blew either. There is absolutely no need in trying to sue anybody or point the finger to anybody else. You messed up, and now you are learning from your mistake. You did not have things set up properly. The saying "Shit trickles down hill" is very fitting here. The bottom of the hill is the sub...if you set things up improperly from the beginning it only snowballs and gets worse from there resulting in a dead sub.

[mikemihai 0]

Sorry for the lengthy post... might take 3-4 full minutes to read

"NDMstang65: The saying "Shit trickles down hill" is very fitting here. The bottom of the hill is the sub...if you set things up improperly from the beginning it only snowballs and gets worse from there resulting in a dead sub."

lol, "Shit trickles down hill" , thats funny and makes sense.

Also about the small claims court thing, was more of an extreme idea, which honestly i dont even have time for, and this could be my fault and no1 elses, and i have no way in knowing for sure. Human error happenes, weather its in one or more products manufacturing process or me the customer, in the end im screwed for the moment, and im gonna assume i did something wrong which lead to this and take the blame.

Im gonna try and learn from this, i thought i had the correct settings on my system, and i still believe i did not exceed any of the recommendations made by the head unit, sub, amp, etc, so im gonna give it another try, this time im gonna save money for a new system big time and have a certified professional look over the whole project and make sure its done right.

I'm interested in how much a recone would cost me not including the shipping i'd have to pay back and forth.

Also im going to shop for a 250amp alternator or so, 1/0 gauge power and ground wires for the amp and also beef up the big 3.

Also going to get a 5 farad or bigger cap

Yellow top Optima battery deep cycle already have it, so i dont need a 2 battery setup or a new battery, my battery is 1 month old, i think it will do.

Sundown amp, that would be my biggest investment next to the alternator which is scary how much those two together will cost me.

Also going to get a good name brand for my headunit, alpine or pioneer, maybe even an expensive one with slide out screen and good processors which i've always wanted.

The box i have now should be good, will have a professional take a second look at it to make sure im actually getting @30hz out of it like it should.

This project should cost me easily over 2k, hopefully i get it done by the end of this year or a year from today, im going to safely assume my sub should not burn out with all those quality upgrades and with a professional making sure the settings are alright. However if it were to burn again when my setup is correct and im not overpowering it, then i dunno what to say, ill be very disapointed but then i can say hey, maybe i did have my setup right the first time i did it alone and with the help of an experieced friend when this happened so it wasnt my fault the first or second time, then it would be that i just had one or more bad products, and i got screwed, but i would have proven my point that it might not have been my fault, which is all i want to achieve at this point b/c im still somewhat confident that theres more to this problem than my own human error or stupidity, im not that much of a complete moron to play my sub when it doesnt sound right, and trust me it sounded perfectly until IT happened.

400 dollar subs + 350 dollar amps just dont burn out on low volume 2 minutes after turning them on, it just doesnt happen.

Heres a true story to ponder about:

Friend A. uses stock alternator, stock big 3, stock battery, no cap, 4gauge power wires, and the worst looking grounding method i've seen in my life to get his single ported alpine Type R sub to work with some cheap amp, and a ported box from his friend. He paid less than 200 bucks for all this and after a year his amp goes bad, b/c it was crap obvioulsy, he gets a new crap(Pyle) amp and now he's pounding at the same 1000 watts max for a year and a half no problems. Im not even sure he tuned his amp to work with his box frequency since he has no idea about sound systems, and i doubt his friend that helped him out does either.

Friend B. Had his alpine 1000 watt amp and alpine type R sub installed professionally at a shop in illinois , he also used stock alternator of similar power , similar regular battery, similar 4gauge wires, similar aftermarket head unit, different box which was sealed instead of ported. Friend B managed to burn 2 type R subs in less than half a week, while his 3rd has been lasting for more than a year. He never changed any setting on his amp or to his setup from day one, all he ever changes is highs. lows, mids, and bass percentage from the headunit. nothing else.

Please someone explain to me why those 2 subs broke? yeah maybe they couldnt handle the power they were put throught, could it be because they werent build right in the first place? Now 2 burnd subs in less than a week obviously means they are not that great. Alpine prob does not even test em individualy like they probably do at Fi. However im not going to ever assume all that Fi makes is 100% always and every single time error free. things can happen. and sometimes are not noticeable at first. IM NOT pointing any fingers , im only saying the possibility is there, and this goes for any brand or product of any kind whatever it may be.

So im giving my music experice and FI a second chance and pairing it up with new better gear from ho alternator to the best amp i can think of which is made by sundown audio. Nothing should go wrong a second time around unless i really have that much bad luck and i get a bad amp, or bad sub or bad wires or headunit, etc etc, or some short hapenes under the hood, i dunno. but second time around this should be no problems.

If im getting trouble again , i think im just gonna forget about anything that has to do with auto mobile sound systems

[Duran 387]

Scratch the power cap.

[NB50 206]

Also somebody wanted to know my box dimensions 18X21.5X32 the vent hole is 4X18 L port shape its tuned to around 30hz forgot exactly how many, i dont even know how many cubic feet but should be enough to fit the recommendation on the site

What are those dimensions in relation to? LxWxH, WxHxL, WxHxL, you get the point.

[mikemihai 0]

Also somebody wanted to know my box dimensions 18X21.5X32 the vent hole is 4X18 L port shape its tuned to around 30hz forgot exactly how many, i dont even know how many cubic feet but should be enough to fit the recommendation on the site

What are those dimensions in relation to? LxWxH, WxHxL, WxHxL, you get the point.

18X21.5X32 WxHxL and the port hole 4x18, 3/4 inch mdf wood. plugged those in the calculator on RE audio web page and it did the rest of the math for me, told me what i would need to cut each piece in the port vent like, and what the box will finally look like, and what my cubic feet and Hz was going to be based on the length of the pieces that make the inner L port walls( i forgot how much that was, prob 8 inches going left to right as u look at letter L. and i think 16 inches going in from the vent hole to the oposite side leaving 4 inches of width for the air to travel in along the way.

Edited May 29, 2010 by mikemihai

[kirill007 52]

Also somebody wanted to know my box dimensions 18X21.5X32 the vent hole is 4X18 L port shape its tuned to around 30hz forgot exactly how many, i dont even know how many cubic feet but should be enough to fit the recommendation on the site

What are those dimensions in relation to? LxWxH, WxHxL, WxHxL, you get the point.

Don't think it matters if u calculate it with pen and paper and calculator.(but with a program i see why.)

And X2 on losing the cap.

Caps are most of the time useless and just a waste of money, and if u don't have money to spend, then don't spend it on a cap.

Spend it on a small battery instead.(like the kinetik HC600-hc800)

[NB50 206]

Also somebody wanted to know my box dimensions 18X21.5X32 the vent hole is 4X18 L port shape its tuned to around 30hz forgot exactly how many, i dont even know how many cubic feet but should be enough to fit the recommendation on the site

What are those dimensions in relation to? LxWxH, WxHxL, WxHxL, you get the point.

18X21.5X32 WxHxL and the port hole 4x18, 3/4 inch mdf wood. plugged those in the calculator on RE audio web page and it did the rest of the math for me, told me what i would need to cut each piece in the port vent like, and what the box will finally look like, and what my cubic feet and Hz was going to be based on the length of the pieces that make the inner L port walls( i forgot how much that was, prob 8 inches going left to right as u look at letter L. and i think 16 inches going in from the vent hole to the oposite side leaving 4 inches of width for the air to travel in along the way.

The dimensions don't make sense, with those it should be a straight port no bend. 32" L wont get you a bend.

Also somebody wanted to know my box dimensions 18X21.5X32 the vent hole is 4X18 L port shape its tuned to around 30hz forgot exactly how many, i dont even know how many cubic feet but should be enough to fit the recommendation on the site

What are those dimensions in relation to? LxWxH, WxHxL, WxHxL, you get the point.

Don't think it matters if u calculate it with pen and paper and calculator.(but with a program i see why.)

It does matter, while any way you do it gives you the same gross volume. It matters on which way to determine how much volume the port takes up, each way the slot port volume would be different when figuring it and in some ways the slot port won't work for the box.