My DIY 2-way setup

[starvingf150 0]

I want to build a 2way setup from Parts Express.

I was thinking part # 290-307 Goldwood 6.5" and # 264-1006 Vifa 3/4"

I was going to use one of their Dayton pre assembled x-overs at 2k Hz. It has poly caps and such, good choice? Its easy for sure.

I wanted to build a IB stand for in home listening and then if they sound good put them in my car.

I also need to find an amp for in home 4 ohm use, unless I'm not thinking of another way of powering them? Series, add something to the x-over, etc..

Thanks for all input. Greatly appreciated.!

Ben

[///M5 2,833]

Bad idea to use an off the shelf crossover and a couple drivers, much better to build something that someone has already done and documented. Terrible might be a better word.

IB stand? I don't quite understand, are you putting the speakers in a wall between rooms? Or do you mean to have IB mean something else.

Crossover design will be completely different for in car and in house, unless the "baffles" are identical. In situ design is really important for crossovers. If you aren't willing to do it buying a set of components is a much better choice.

[///M5 2,833]

Edit, 2 second search. Here is an easy, quick 2 way for you that will COMPLETELY destroy what you chose so far. Tons of other options though...

http://zaphaudio.com/ZMV5.html

[nem 2,019]

Edit, 2 second search. Here is an easy, quick 2 way for you that will COMPLETELY destroy what you chose so far. Tons of other options though...

http://zaphaudio.com/ZMV5.html

That would be a great 2 way for sure!

[starvingf150 0]

Thanks for the reply.

I was meaning like a MDF base with an upright face to mount the speakers to. Like a bookshelf cabinet with only the bottom and face.. Just to get some sound of the highs/mids and whatnot. Then adjust if necessary. I am not a huge audiophile by any sort.

Is it that precise for a 2way setup primarily used for car audio in the x-over design? Crazy. (Noob) I was thinking off the shelf was cool..

Just wanted something that would be pretty musical and loud. To keep up nicely with a 12" on 1kW.

I'll read up on that article btw. Thanks.

It would be much easier on me with a 6.5" mid and .75"-1" tweet btw.

Edited April 4, 2011 by starvingf150

[Impious 1,476]

What you are describing is not IB, it is called dipole. And it requires certain drivers, certain baffle dimensions, a proper crossover design and certain room requirements (such as a certain distance from walls, certain aiming, etc) in order to work correctly. It's not as easy as throwing a couple drivers on a baffle with a prebuilt crossover and expecting good results. Chances are far more probable that it would sound like crap, in fact.

Crossovers for the car and home will be completely different even for the same set of drivers. So even if you get them sounding good in the house, it doesn't mean that same sound will carry over into an automobile.

If you want to build a set of speakers for your home, then follow one of the designs already published on website's such as Zaph's or Partsexpress. Those are home audio designs......keep them in the home

If you want a set of passive speakers for an automobile, best option is to buy a set of pre-designed components from one of the numerous car audio manufacturers. If you want to buy your own driver's to use in an automobile, best option is to go active.

[Randal Johnson 544]

Most all home amps use to be 8 ohm stereo ... Is it still that way ??? Sorry for thread jacking, but it might help some ... Thanks, Randal ...

[///M5 2,833]

Most "good" home audio stuff will have no problems with 4 ohms.

And as Impious said a baffle won't work.

[starvingf150 0]

Thanks for the info guys!

Well if I buy pre-fab from a car audio company, seems anything worthwhile with quality components (namely in the x-over) and output is out of my price range. And since they are still passive, figured I could build my own passive set up with great parts for much cheaper... My range is $200-300 complete. Run 150 to 200wrms to each door (mid and tweet).

If you say active, can you point in the right direction of some solid reading material to inform me of a good choice? There are threads and such, but want to make sure its the right info.

I have a feeling that active would prob be out of my price range as well.

Thanks again.

If this is now getting too off topic, can it be moved? Don't want to cause any issue in the HT section.

Edited April 5, 2011 by starvingf150

[///M5 2,833]

Moved to the speaker section.

A $250 comp set will KILL what you picked originally.

Active requires an amp channel for each driver (tweeter & mid x2) and a crossover. If you don't have the amp channels already it will definitely push you over budget.

Time to go audition some comps

[starvingf150 0]

I do have an Alpine 45x4 amp already. I was going to bridge it for the orignal idea. But if you think active is better, then i do have the channels for it. I just dont know where to start on how to create a great active set up. Are there any similar resources like Zaph, but for car audio instead of home audio?

Still nonetheless, why couldn't I create or 'someone' with the proper design, build a better DIY passive set than what you could get off the shelf on retail? I would think there is a lot of margin in the sets retail and also yet, a big difference in the parts dollar per dollar, retail to DIY.

Thanks again.

[///M5 2,833]

It can be done, but the way you are asking about it means that if you were to do it you might have to wait a rather long while before its done. It is far from trivial, but not that complicated if you have taken a college level electronics course and have some measurement gear at your disposal.

Again, in reality EACH crossover should be designed in the car that it is going to be used. Also figure that crossover components are as expensive as the speakers that you are connecting them to.

As for your question on is there a site that does that the answer is no and the reason is rather simple. Creating a home audio speaker that repeatable sounds at least very similar the original design is much easier as the environment can be doctored or at least chosen for the design. This is not at all possible in a car, at least not stemming across multiple models.

The question is how much of a compromise are you willing to have? And either way considering your knowledge and budget an off the shelf component set is going to be your best bet.

[starvingf150 0]

Ok good deal.

Well i do have a decent understanding of electronics and whatnot. Design/modeling software, not so much. Electronic tools consist of a multimeter for me.

But if a car can't be modeled from one to another, and regarding a website database for this type of thing, how does an 'off the shelf' passive set sound good from one car to another? How does the manufacturer overcome this for customer satisfaction?

So most people are limited to 'off the shelf', until they have all the tools and knowledge to build a solid passive or active set? No way really to experience it without that?

[///M5 2,833]

Compromise and a lot of it